I wanted to make a cable rack even before krekr posted his design, but I wanted to make it clamp on to my workbench rather than be permanently attached. This derivative takes his design and adds clamps so I don't have to drill holes into whatever old computer desk I happen to be using as workbench at the time!

I've wanted to make something that incorporates a custom clamp and I also have been wanting to try to make some snap together parts for a while, so I incorporated both into this design. If you want to use something other than ABS to make these clamps though, it would be pretty easy to replace these snaps with T-slots for fasteners (which I might do anyway).

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

designed with E12/24 etc series of resistors in mind (12x2 layout)

flap yet missing, need to figure out a nice way to make the hinge strong and small enough.

can be easily modified by removing seperators/holes for these.

The Geneva Wheel is a simple mechanic base unit for converting a continuous rotation motion into an intermittent rotary motion. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geneva_wheel Its used in clocks and similar mechanics.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This is a dollhouse I made for my niese, Katrin. It is 47 cm tall and 42x49 cm wide, and made of wood (MDF). It can be the home of dolls with a height of about 8-10 cm.

More furniture will come as Katrin grows a bit older;-)

Model of a fish (loach, botia) with a hole in the tail for making a keychain, earrings or similar dangling thing.

The fish is about 7 cm long and split into simmetric halves to be easily printed.

We hope you will enjoy and share alike this fish thing #4444!

Created by hobbit, oxiigen and fileneed, from wish to fish in one (extended) evening.

i was wondering if i could make a set of FTC legal mecanum wheel

I needed something to store my rolls of vinyl so I threw this simple floor rack together with some cheap materials and stuff I had on hand.

For my wedding in October 2011 I asked my fiance if I could build something, she only asked that it not be tacky. This is what I came up with. It's a modular folding photo booth. I designed the model in Sketchup, programmed it in Autoit, and gave it a nice Glados voice. I needed an input device and I decided to make a serial comm button. I took a 555 timer and made it generate a 4.8kHz square wave. At 9600 baud this translates to UUUUUUUU plus one garbage character when the button is released. for now it only uses a Webcam to take photos but hopefully I will be find a deal on a canon power shot sometime in the next months to upgrade it. Since the printouts are resized, the small webcam resolution isn't noticable, however it won't be suitable if i wanted to incorporate the singles frames into a album. I'm working on some upgrades using the twitter api so I can have the booth update me whenever it is taking photos. This way I can tell it's status and share photos easier.


Here is a video of it's assembly and the software.

youtube.com/watch?v=jNGg821bC7c

This is a simple 3-legged stand I made for my brother. Made from 15mm plywood it's quite large (see pdf) but you can scale the design down to any size required. The height is adjustable and overall the stand is quite sturdy. I gave it a single coat of varnish to protect it from moisture (it's used as a stand for a small telescope)

Provided are all solidworks source files and cutting diagram as metric dxf.

I built this CNC router from designs I saw all ver the place and like the idea of using aluminium channel and steel. I simply built the table then measured the gantry to suit. You can build any size this way as long as you re-enforce properly. The control board came from HobbyCNC and the motors are NEMA 23. The power supply I built (simple 24v 7A).

I saw this design: arkwhat.com/17-arkcanary-ii and decided to make my own. The holder.stl fits an iPhone 4 ass, but the parts are separate if you would like to make one to fit your phone's ass.
Video if it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=apK3GMyn45w
Designed and printed at hive76.org/

Waiting for the electronics to be delivered by mail (IRL mail :) i re-worked some parts to cut on my lasercutter

Here is the place i put and update the mendel parts adapted to my laser cutter.

Everything is cut in 3mm MDF (maybe 1/8" fits... )
on a 40 Watts epilog zing lasercutter (tuning speed 45%, power 100%)
open the .odg with openoffice 3.2 (seems openoffice3.3 and freeoffice3.3 got some troubles with big printings)

I found original plans are in reprap wiki
reprap.org/wiki/LaserCut_Mendel
techzonecom.com/listing.php?cat_id=8

theses no more nedds post-processing, just glue and clamps.

Remarks :
I provide .svg i do not tryed, i prefer .odg
I put the pieces here once i tryed them, but nothing can be sure before the first object prints.

This filament guide pulley allows me to put a CAT-6 box loaded with ABS filament on the floor, run the filament up and over the pulley, and down into the extruder. It is low friction, large diameter and has a deep slot to help guide the filament.

I went to a costume party dressed as Max Fischer from the Wes Anderson movie Rushmore, and thought his lapel pins would be a nice touch. So I made some to be cut on the laser cutter.

Firstly, this is NOT MY IDEA! It was published by Vik Olliver, Diamond Age Solutions Ltd. diamondage.co.nz. I have reproduced it here, assuming that it is public domain. However, I will be happy to remove it if the original author would like me to. His document says "Documentation released under the GFDL for free reproduction." I hope that extends to his pictures!

I am building a mrkimrobotics 1X2 reprap mrkimrobotics.com/ and thingiverse.com/thing:5773 from basic, locally sourced parts, and getting to the point were I need to create a hot end. I realised I needed a lathe for this, but don't have space or cash for a real one and all thingiverse lathes thingiverse.com/tag:lathe require some reprapped parts - but mine isn't built yet! Somehow I stumbled upon Vik's page and feel it deserves a wider audience.

I built mine using a Bosch hand drill with handle adapter clamped in a Black and Decker Workmate for one end, and the chuck from my drill press G-clamped to a small vice for the other. I have only been playing around with this so far, and haven't got this working quite well enough yet to make a hot end, but it has excellent potential.

Vik Olliver: "Why an 'Afghan Lathe'? Because I first saw this kind of technique being used by Afghan gunsmiths to produce counterfeit firearms with remarkable precision."

This printable extruder is intended to work on RepRap Mendel (both standard and Prusa), RepRap Huxley, and virtually any other open-source 3D printer you can find.

It features:

1. 1.75 mm filament
2. Adaptable mounting plate to attach it to virtually any 3D printer
3. Very compact high-torque NEMA 11 motor
4. Active ducted fan cooling for high reliability
5. Wade-style hobbed bolt filament transport
6. Wing-nut drive to spread the torque loading on the plastic gears
7. Push-fit hot-end parts - no thread cutting
8. Easily replaced PTFE liner for the hot end
9. A single M3-threaded rod cut to lengths makes all the fixings
10. Lightweight: 420g
11. Compact design (110 mm x 90 mm x 80 mm)

I based this design (loosely) on Jstkatz's extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7037), in particular, the idea of using a lever to trap the filament against its drive.

These are Key Chain Fobs or Zipper Tab attachments or in my case Ceiling Fan Pull Knobs. With varying themes (3d printing, Star Wars, sports). I live in Florida, so there is a ceiling fan in about every room of every house.

My brother keeps breaking his pull string knobs in his house, so he asked me to print some up with some various symbols on them. He is a big fan of Star Wars and Sports. He asked me to do one with the Rebel Alliance Insignia, one with the Empire Insignia, one for his favorite football team and one for his favorite baseball team.

Well.. I thought they came out nice, so I did some MakerBot and RepRap ones too! And, I decided to upload them here, in case anyone wanted to print them!

Update, Printed the Star Wars ones

Wanted to upload the template I made when I bult my fire work controller.

More pictures of the one that I made can be found here:
instructables.com/id/Firework-Controller-Build/

Goal: combine Ruttmeister's NEMA 17 gear set with ScribbleJ's Wade's-Style Tensioner.

I tried the Nearly Universal Adaptor Plate (thing:6458), but ran into two problems: it didn't fit on my platform, and — when I printed it with half the stepper bracket removed — didn't provide enough spacing for thing:5795's 51-tooth and 14-tooth NEMA 17 gears. Similarly, Ruttmeister's official bracket wouldn't fit on my platform.

Lacking the OpenSCAD skills, and with my extruder disassembled, I bought some aluminium L bracket and hacked this together. it uses thing:6458 with everything that doesn't match ScribbleJ's original design cut off with a hacksaw.

This isn't the ideal shape of the bracket, by any means. I took some measurements, hacked this thing together, and then made the design in Sketchup.

Yep, this is a wall stand for a guitar (classic type). It is made essentially out of wood and produced on a laser-cutter.

Mofify the hook's width to adapt it to another type of guitar if needed.

Les instructions sont disponibles en français.

This chair has a reclined back and foot rest that is up. Please note that the back needs to be slightly resized so be careful to place it in correctly becsause itis not sqaure.

I built zgbot's air filter for my Thing-o-Matic during the machine's build process. I made it to sit on top of the machine, but after about 6 months of being moved around the duct tape started to come loose. Between that and a circular saw I hadn't had a chance to use I decided to make a version out of plywood.

It takes a square cabin air filter about 8"x.75"x1", which I believe is used on Toyota and Lexus cars such as the RX 350. I'm not really sure because I just bought one from an auto parts store that looked like I could build something around it and I never really paid attention. The filter I bought has activated carbon in it to help with the smell.

The air filter goes in the top, and sits on the edges of the bottom half. It's actually a big pain to get in there so if I had it to do over, I'd make one of the side panels on the top section come off (instead of the lid) and slip the filter in that way.

There are 2 80mm fans on top, which make a little more noise (and push more air) than I'd like. The next time I'm doing some internal work, I intend to move them from 12v to 7v so they'll slow down. I've got a simple switch on the line so I can turn them on and off, and I used a barrel plug from RadioShack so I can disconnect the filter and remove it.

The top is a little short, just enough to be able to hang the LCD controls off the front of the machine. The back of the filter sits on the back lip of the ToM. This way I didn't have to put a cutout in for the Z motor. On the sides, I sanded out little channels to be able to fit over the M3 bolts on the top of the machine.

The base section is 3" tall, which was just enough so that the filament drive wouldn't hit the bottom of the filter when at max Z. With the new MK7s, it looks like it could be reduced almost all the way. As it is though, there would be enough room on the front panel of the base section to embed an LCD and control pad, which could look pretty neat.

All measurements are in inches (because I don't seem to own a metric ruler or tape measure), and should more or less correspond with what I built. It's designed for 1/4" plywood. The panels are secured together with brads through the ends (into holes I pre-drilled with a 1/32" or 1/64" bit), and I glued and nailed some 3/4" wood strips in the corners to provide extra support. The top lid is simply screwed on into tapped holes in the extra wood strips. I believe, all together, I used less than half a sheet of plywood.

I've been using it for a few weeks now, and it works quite well. Having the filament feed straight through the top has worked out quite well. It requires punching a hole in the air filter, but it means that it can drop straight down into the extruder.

This is a fork
You can Eat with it
You can stab things with it
You can launch it with a device made to launch such objects


This thing has changed the world, can you?

I decided to make my own wolverine claws for Halloween. The facial hair is up to you.

This is a lotus or rose or what ever is most Awesome. I made this as a gift for someone so I went the extra mile and made some brass leafs colored green and Copper wire stems so oxidize them in a brown green tone. I went to TIG the copper to the stainless stalk but It was too small so I just brazed it. I ended up Threading the stem to use a 4/40 nylon acorn nut below the flower and a 4/40 acorn nut at the top to look real.

How do you replace a 1970s Style sliding door handle that broke at 2pm today!
Aha make use of SNIJLAB's bendy Plywood I used 6mm Plywood for this the drawing and making was done just within two hours.

This is a filament guide and Dust Guard for the Thing-O-Matic. I jut finished making a spindle for the Thing-O-Matic which left me with a need for a filament guide, but I also wanted a dust Guard, so I combined the two things into one part. This part was design to fit on either the front or rear top of the Thing-O-Matic. Enjoy.