Just an other filament holder to be mounted on top of Prusa/Mendel. Though quite light still can sustain 2.3Kg bobbin. Construction is detachable from the printer and equiped with optional slit for filamnet and bearings in the bobbin axis.
Designed for bobbins with 30-31mm center openings diameter. Bobbin of overall size 132mm wide up to diameter 230mm can be fitted in the holder.

Simple LED light encasement for CR2032 battery and one diode. Light is turned ON/OFF by sliding the battery - no soldering required.

You can use it as it is in small lantern or intergrate the battery holder into your own design.

Laser-cut charging dock for your Nexus 7

This hand pump is located at the Wilson Montessori school Wonderground SPARK park in Houston wilsonspark.org/ It gives the kids a safe way to get water to play with, and demonstrates James Watt's straight line linkage.

Combination of the Greg's Accessible Extruder and Wade's Extruder. Easily bolts on to the Open X Carriage. thingiverse.com/thing:21276

This extruder design combines the very cool design improvements by GregFrost with a wades-esque body, which allows the stepper motor to be slid into place so that gears of various size will still work.

The extruder drive gear has been redesigned so that the stem is slightly shorter, making it compatable with both Greg's and Wade's style extruders. The captive nut is placed closer to the top of the print to make it easy to slip it in as soon as it's done.

The driven gear is designed to be both sturdy as well as resistant to warp due to not being a completely solid piece.

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

Does the fan on your extruder heatsink have a broken blade? You can fix it without having to buy a new one. Using the instructions below, you can print a new blade. Although the blade is designed for this specific fan, it may also work for any 40x40x10mm fan as well. Happy printing!

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

A square tile that fits with itself and can make structures, like this cube

To replace my broken tripod mounting, which I've repaired several time by other means but I've simply given up on now that it's in shattered ruins once and for all.

Fully assembled it provides for three degrees of rotation so you can set the camera at the desired angle. Design is fully printable with no glue or fasteners required (though a dab of glue in one spot might be a good idea, see instructions) EXCEPT a metal nut to hold it onto the tripod legs and a metal bolt (cut to length) to screw into the camera.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online

Truck Body/Bed
tinkercad.com/things/fCN4YMhTmQQ

Cement Mixer:
tinkercad.com/things/4Ra3JgwyawS

Dump Truck:
tinkercad.com/things/43HThTLBXk4-truckdumper

I created this truck body with lips on the bed's sides into which some other part can be slid. Currently, there are two swappable parts: a cement mixer, and a dump truck.

This was my first attempt to create something from scratch that had "encapsulated wheel-axels" and I realize now that the parts, which are relatively small, sometimes melt together, as with the PLA I used.

I tried to fix this with one of those detachable-jawed pliers and a razor-knife. I had partial success, but this is nothing any competent micro-surgeon shouldn't be able to fix. Maybe I'll make the thing a bit larger next time.

The cement mixer spins, if you work it. The dumper is supposed to tilt, but I wasn't as patient with it.

I wanted to share my improvements on the great printable hexapod by Ijon:
- an STL plate for printing in small machines like the Printrbot Jr
- Sample Arduino source code based on the ArduSnake oscillators library by Obijuan

I found the bearing holder for the Up! pp3dp FDM system designed by art103 (bearings by chylld) to build on our Up! Mini system. However, the bracket to attach the bearing shaft to the machine is different on the original Up! machine.

This part allows the bearings designed by chylld/art103 to be used on the Up! Mini system.

A ring that can be inscribed with a message in binary around the outer band. Very useful for "special" occasions.

This design was used to print the engagement ring for my then-girlfriend, but now-fiance. I can attest to the effectiveness of this design :) Several revisions were printed in several plastics from Shapeways. Frosted detail probably was the most impressive plastic version due to a slight transparency. White strong and flexible worked, but did not reproduce the engravings well. The silver print from Shapeways came out very well.

Same as the original box, but the hinges will fit without drilling, and the lid will open in the middle instead of one edge.

No power due to Hurricane Sandy... and running out of D cell batteries for the flashlights... :-

Got a bunch of AA cells... hmmm... Let's put that 3D printer to good use while we have the generator going! ;-)

This is a box with a hinged lid, large enough to hold various small things, like maybe cards. It uses a straightened-out paperclip for the hinge pin, and can be held closed with another paperclip.

This is a mounting bracket for thing thingiverse.com/thing:27550, a 3W, high-power LED lighting board. Use these to mount the LEDs to the bottom of your cupboards and illuminate the countertop below. This mount screws into the bottom of the cup

Make your own Bottle Lamp from recycled bottles. They add a wonderful touch to your decor and make great gifts.

A Lighted Bottle will add illumination and a touch of color to your favorite room.

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

A small, completely printable quadcopter printed on my Up! Plus 3D printer

This is a basic mount to secure a mac mini (old style height) to the base of a cocktail cabinet arcade machine.

It features an integrated power switch trigger with printable pushswitch which can be mounted onto the side of a cabinet to reset or power on/off the mac mini via a length of piano wire.

The vertical mounts are in theory adjustable in height (using m4 bolts) by a small amount to give more clearance should you need to add padding under the mac mini or a top plate.

A stand for Cubic Print's excellent filament spool ( thingiverse.com/thing:12744 ).

I used byteborg's remix ( thingiverse.com/thing:16340 ) of the center to save some time but it doesn't matter either way.

You'll need to print the parts from the above Thingiverse listings along with the part on this listing and some get some extra hardware to complete this project. See instructions below for what you need to do.

This thing allows you to mount a 70mm (OD) PC cooling fan to the back 2 bars of a Printrbot, thus blowing air across the Printrboard (specifically the stepper drivers). While I haven't heard any reports of Printrboards failing, I wanted to prolong the life of mine as long as possible. I run the fan directly off 5V from an ATX - it is a 12V fan so at this potential difference it runs slower and quieter providing a gentle airflow. At higher speed the cooling might be so great that it negatively affects the performance of the heated bed above.

These parts were to fix my toilet.

OWL is a prototyping platform for ducted/cowled Horizontal-Axis Wind Turbines, which can deliver increased efficiency-per-area, blade safety and reduced noise.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_lens
Starting documentation at: opensourceecology.org/wiki/Shrouded_wind_turbine

These types of turbines tend to show an increase in power output of 2-5x for a given blade-swept-area, depending how well the shroud is designed. (See open paper: mdpi.com/1996-1073/3/4/634 and 2.5m 5kW-rated-each results of this study en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Windlens1.jpg) A shroud also tends to cut down blade-tip vortices, which are typically the single largest cause of noise and downwind turbulence in wind turbines, since it induces a wind-tunnel-like environment where an almost '2D' flow pattern can form around the blades without spilling around the end as much. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wingtip_vortices)
A couple of safety considerations with wind turbines can be improved by a shroud/cowling; firstly in the highly unlikely event of a blade failing, any fragments would hit the cowling before anything else, so there would be significantly less danger to any passers-by, and the popularly overstated danger of birds hitting turbine blades is further lessened by having a stator in front. I have kept the current design to a roughly 1m diameter, since this should give a good safety margin of strength to wooden blades and make construction easily manageable for a very small team.

An idea that I've been sitting on and trying to figure out the details of for too long (a couple of years now), but still needs a fair bit of design work.
I would like the turbine to run in as wide an operational envelope of wind-speeds as possible, in order to take advantage of intermittent storm winds that frequent a site that I will be testing it on. As such the present design does not furl out of the wind with increasing speed, and has a heat-sink applied to the stator coils in order to prevent overheating in strong winds. This has yet to be tested though and should be regarded as stupid/reckless/unsafe until it can be verified by testing. I may also design an alternative off-centre mounting that should allow the system to furl out of very high winds.

The mounting pole is just there to give an idea of how to compatibly mount this to a tower. Having such a long pole directly from the horizontal axis would not be recommended in practice, and the turbine should be mounted by a relatively short stub at the top including some kind of yaw bearing. The structure is presently designed to accept up to a 35mm diameter pole, and I am considering the use of 25mm bicycle headset bearings in conjunction with thick-plate threaded steel tubes, or possibly sand-casting a mounting stub out of aluminium.

My design work has been inspired by:
Hugh Piggott's "Wind Turbine Recipe Book" 2009 metric edition; scoraigwind.com/
FloDesign's concept designs youtube.com/watch?v=WB5CawKfE2M (might as well mute this video as it is full of marketing BS)
...and of course the many designs of gas turbine engines that presently power most of the world's large passenger aircraft and military aircraft, which also inspired FloDesign's engineers to do their work.

The aerofoil profiles were achieved using Divahar Jayaraman's MATLAB script: mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/19915-naca-4-digit-airfoil-generator under BSD License.
I tried editing it to output scaled data, but it seems that simply copy-pasting output vectors into OpenOffice Calc and then saving as fixed-column-width .CSV gives cleaner data that is easier to import to SolidWorks.
I used NACA designation 0020 for the stator blades and 9415 for the wind-lens. The stator is fitted with symmetric blades in such a way that its angle of attack can be altered to 0, 4, 8 or 12 degrees in either direction (shown at 4 in picture) depending on which way you want to cut your rotor blades to spin, and I have designed the wind lens foils to extrude at 12 degrees angle of attack.
If I was any good at CFD then I could optimise this more, but I'm hoping someone can help me with that.

This is my take on the bowdens mount for dual extruding on the MakerGear Prusa (along with my previous upgrade on the Z-Axis).

I've taken the 2 Extruder Mod by dob71 and redesigned the hotend mount for easier assembly. I have also resized everything to fit 1.75 filament.

The X-Carriage has a wider opening to give enough room for both hotends.

Just as a note, I have been using this setup for about 2 months now (as of Aug 02, 2012). I've mostly used it as a single extruder because I haven't gotten a concrete way of generating dual-extrusion gcode yet (working on it). The print quality isn't perfect, but it isn't bad either (in fact, the pictures you see are all from a second set printed while using my first set). I ended up using a slow retraction of 10mm to remove the blobbing and nozzle drip.

This animated woodpecker toy uses a little bit of physics to create a lot of fun.

Created by Jason Bakutis

Hello!

This is the update design of the Stead i Cam. We've fixed a few issues, here is a list with all the improvements:

- smaller laser foot print (600mm x 300mm)
- updated camera-plate (even if your glue breaks, your camera will still stay on the frame
- we've converted everything to M4
- completely new bearing holder, requires almost no glue, the bearing sits inside a cage, doesn't slip through the handle like some previous versions, sits on top of the handle
- the axle goes all the way through the handle for increased robustness
- the train (the thing inside the frame that moves forward/backwards) is updated, too many improvements to mention
- added a bill of materials!

The original design can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:14226

The Stead i Cam is designed by Frits Stam en Koen de Greef.

This project originated from the urge to create tools that help designers create professional results in times of budget cuts. With ‘Tools for Design’ we aim to create a community that helps in the development of instruments used in the design process. The Stead-I-Cam is an example of one of these tools. It supports smooth and professional moving video footage. It is created from a single sheet of laser-cut material, making it easy for any student to create and assemble. This open-source project cuts costs for such a professional tool and makes it accessible for every student / diy'er.

We love to see your own Stead i Cam so upload a picture of it!