Inspired by Halcyon25 on 405th.com.
I didn't like the idea of cutting out every layer and gluing them together.

The plastic printed pieces will be more sturdy than glued paper.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

flower by sudarsan [created on 3DTin]

This spool holder was designed for use 25-30 core diameter x 100mm spools as found with typical 3rd-party PLA sources.

The part is designed in two pieces, for easy print-ability w/o supports. Once its complete just glue to together w/ CA glue.

This will allow yu to put a small drive (like Floppy or in my case a memory card reader) in a regular 5.25" (DVD drive) bay.

Fits nicely for a first attempt, and it works fine with the regular screws provided with drives.

I was challenged to create a passable decorative pokeball for cosplay purposes. These components can be used to construct your own decorative Pokeballs. This kit includes simple primitive models to construct a decorative pokeball. By themselves the included models do not constitute a pokeball, some assembly required.

Included Models:
Reinforced Half Sphere
Split Flange
Button

Legal Disclaimer: The Pokemon brand is the property of Nintendo. I claim no ownership over their products or trademarks. This is merely a reproduction for decorative purposes only. Do not try to eat the components or final item. Not for children. NOT A TOY!

Edit:Replaced misspelled file name.

Edit2: Uploaded files with more generalized file names.

A wooden, laser cut iPad case. inspired by the wonderful folding wood booklets by SNIJLAB thingiverse.com/thing:12707

Used the idea for a Father's Day present with my dad's initial etched in.

A Film holder to use when scanning fim with a digital camera.

It is somtimes useful to include cantilever springs in a plastic mecanism. But, because of the many variables involved in printed plastic parts, there is very little information on the properties of the material. Thus experimenting with many different desings become a solution that consume a lot of time and resources.
This device is intended to measure the elasticity constant (Young's modulus), the yield strength (the force required to deform the part) and the ultimate strength (the force required to break the part)

A toy robot action figure designed by a Boy Scout and intended for only good deeds.

UPDATE: Files 1 & 2 have been revised for cleaner meshes.

This is a replacement annular cooling for the Ultimaker nozzle. The original cooling shroud, although functional, can sometimes be counterproductive. The unidirectional nature of the cooling stream can sometimes lift the first layer, especially when printing on a raft. The annular cooling nozzle is aimed at the printed object from all directions, thus cancelling any possible lift.

This is a thing describing how to make timing pulleys for an Ultimaker style printer. It describes how to combine inexpensive polycarbonate plastic MXL timing pulleys with aluminum spacers to make a robust timing pulley for an Ultimaker style printer with 8mm outer shafts.

A friction-fit cap for the bottom of the iPhone 4 that allows a stethoscope to be attached and recorded using the built-in microphones.

As the sound passes through the rubber stethoscope tubing, it is split into two chambers (seen in the rendering image) and funneled directly to the mics at the bottom of the phone.

A quick test recording can be heard here:
soundcloud.com/jeffthompson/3d-printed-iphone-stethoscope

This is a fork
You can Eat with it
You can stab things with it
You can launch it with a device made to launch such objects


This thing has changed the world, can you?

This is a fully functional microphone shock mount for a side-address microphone. (Also called a "spider mount.") It's functionally equivalent to equipment that can cost around $50 to buy retail. This design is meant to be printed on a RepRap style 3D printer.

This design is parametric -- that is, it can be scaled up to larger diameters fairly easily and thanks to the truss structure, it has the excess strength to accomodate that.

(Also, to head off the inevitable comment, the hose clamp does not touch the mount body. There is 3mm clearance, and that's the largest hose clamp that will work for the design shown in the pictures. This was actually made for my Austin Ribbon Mic, and there's plenty of space for that one, as it's a narrower mic using a smaller hose clamp.)

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:8878 and until I get the ABP to do what it is supposed to do for all height prints, I have created a simple systems to switch between the two. It requires one more MBI heater board ( store.makerbot.com/makerbot-thingomatic-heater-board-v1-1.html ) so there is no dismantling necessary.

The idea is to replace the X stage front and back plates with printed counterparts (one could use the wooden pieces but the removal would probably injure it eventually) and to install a pair of clips to the underside of the ABP and the HBP.

The ABP will require 4 extra holes (exactly where the HBP has them) but otherwise the transformation is reversible (important to me).

The HBP has 4 thumbscrews to adjust height in each corner and the ABP is being modified further to use a Stainless Stell belt as seen here thingiverse.com/thing:9127 along with a servo driven "tensioner" that tenses the standard length belt during printing so some more stable height gain can be obtained from the ABP but releases whenever the belt needs to moves. I will post this one when I am done building and testing it.

I have added the SketchUp files for your editing pleasure.

A DIY Canon RC-6 IR Remote. It seems to work from ~5 feet.

The case is semi-parametric. As it is, it fits (mostly) nicely in the hand. (The back end could be a little smaller...)

Circuit and code based on design at doc-diy.net/photo/eos_ir_remote

Keychain dongles and fridge magnets are pretty self explanatory.

Just in time for Halloween - a 102mm x 150mm MakerBot printable spider. Printed in black (or glow-in-the-dark ABS) this thing would look pretty real. 3rd photo down is a cheat, I photoshopped a white ABS spider photo to get an idea of what black would look like. Modelled after a googled diagram of the real thing, the proportions should be pretty close except for the 10X size.

The spider head is not real detailed having only a couple of (closed) fangs hanging down.

What I learned from working on this is that modelling animals is way harder then doing geometric objects. There are no straight lines only short segments of changing length and diameter. Makes me appreciate that much more the modelling done to generate the animals, busts and figures posted on Thingiverse.

This design is based on a portable backpacker acoustic and a toy cardboard guitar for children. Its intent is to explore whether cardboard can be strong enough to withstand the stresses of a guitar string while flexible enough to produce an attractive musical tone.

I would also like to see if it's possible to make a flatpack version in pine sheets, but I would need to make a wood steamer first.

This is an entry into the Make/Makerbot contest :)

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie