Preliminary design for a standrad Mendel Prusa printer. Design goals:
* Combine printer, PSU, RAMPS controller and LCD+keypad into on box.
* Allow printer to be easily put in and out of box (top bar can be unscrewed to allow printer to be taken out/in).
* High visibility on printing process (plexiglass windows surrounding machine).
* Easy access to print platform and end-stops (hinged flap on front, semi-attached flap on the back.
* As air tight as possible to keep toxic ABS fumes enclosed and stabilize temperature control.
* Don't use toxic air to cool PSU and controller.
* Integrate spindle holder on machine (with multi-extruder/spindles as option.

Design was done keeping in mind standard wood pieces and plexiglass. FreeCAD is used to make the design.

Just an other filament holder to be mounted on top of Prusa/Mendel. Though quite light still can sustain 2.3Kg bobbin. Construction is detachable from the printer and equiped with optional slit for filamnet and bearings in the bobbin axis.
Designed for bobbins with 30-31mm center openings diameter. Bobbin of overall size 132mm wide up to diameter 230mm can be fitted in the holder.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

This is a project to build a bag with felt, plastic parts and magnets.

I built this box to keep my Printrbot Original in, and make it easier to transport.

The PSU is above the back protrusion of the print bed to save space (see pics).

When the lid is up the bed can extend fully forwards, and the lid doubles up as a spool holder.

When closed the box looks very nondescript (to pass uni room inspections). There is a handle on top for easy carrying. The usb cable and power cable can also be stowed in the box.

The box is built of scraps of wood I had already. Hence I've listed as "work in progress" as you would have to redesign it to suit your printer size and construction materials.

The PSU template is not my design but I can't remember where I got it from, sorry original author! I posted here as I struggled to find such a template.

This is a project I am working on for my furniture design class. I am inspired in this case by Scandinavian design. The seat portion will be made of vacuum bagged maple ply wood and the legs will be made from walnut to contrast the colour of the maple. The padding is high density foam with a fabric upholstery. The head rest hangs with a weighted rod to counter balance the cushion and is secured through the chair via cut out.

The silent_runner is a small high performance model airship with a full do it your self documentation.

All parts are cheap and easy to assemble. Build your airship today and stop wasting battery power to low efficiency planes and quadrocopters, but start over with endless endurance and amazing grace.

The first silent_runner had some nice testflights, demonstrating good agility, speed and even crash robustness:
youtu.be/gkAJlDUEEM8

The whole project is undergoing finetuning and improvements, thus feedback is much appreciated.

This is a CNC rocking chair. The bed is made from a single sheet of 18mm Birch plywood and the sides from another sheet of 12mm Birch ply. I was working with "living hinges" made from zig-zag cut wood and wanted to see if a whole chair could be made that was flexible enough to bend around the curved form but strong enough to support a person. The clamping joint and "T" peg make it super sturdy once it is assembled. It is really comfy to sit on and makes a wonderful lounger for watching TV, reading or just hanging out. An extra bonus - the lower bed is at pet-level. The family dog, cat or raccoon (some families are bigger than others!) can enjoy the ride with you!

this is a saddle stool that is made from plywood and webbing..
glue is not estential but helps with strength

A single sheet of polypropylene folded to create a 450mm-high stool. Intended for use in a design studio or around any low table/desk.

DIY bookscanner with printable parts

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

This is my version for a clothing door hook to hang your clothing on. After the one I got at Wal-Mart broke on me, instead of buying a new one, i decided to design one myself :)

Door Frame Section for Kids Lock
for use with normal child pantry locks but for normal doors with frames

It's a bed, made from wood, held together by Rietveld connections.

Complete source lives at github.com/byteborg/household/tree/master/hannah-bed

I.Q.B. (I-cube)
The ultimate toddler toy!

After shopping around for toys for our son, I was quite disappointed with the price/longevity/challenge of most toys.
There is some cool stuff out there, but most are utterly simplistic and quickly boring and way too expensive.
So I set out to create the coolest toddler toy ever ;-)

The basic idea is to create a fancy looking enclosure, add lots of buttons, dials, some LED's, a mic and speaker. Hook them up to a micro-controller and voila a reprogrammable toy.

I have been working on multiple aspects at the same time, but I thought it time to start sharing the first part:
The enclosure, a cube made from printed parts and Plexiglas.
While this is not the cheapest option, it will be quite modular during construction and finalizing.
And I expect the end-result to be quite sturdy and up to toddler abuse.
For me this also an excercise of working with Plexiglas again and I was ordering some anyway ;-)

I'll update the project as I move along.
Follow instructions at your own risk!
As always, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it!

A very simple and compact DVD rack that will make your DVDs look like they are just floating off the wall.

Made to fit standard DVD cases (14mm thick).

This is my newly designed and built Makerbot Replicator Enclosure that does not require a laser cutter to make. It can be built using your Makerbot Replicator, a band saw, drill press, and one screw driver for assembly. It uses 1/4 inch thick acrylic plastic for all the clear parts so that it will not sag because it is to light weight for the sizes that are needed. It cost less than half of what it would be to have the parts laser cut for you. The top hood and front window opening are easily removed in seconds without tools so it is simple to access the Makerbot when you want to make adjustments, print a part or remove finished parts.

A simple calibration ruler and numbers font for OpenSCAD.
A simple mono-spaced number font designed for 10x10mm per digit.

This thing is made with OOML (V2.0)
iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php

I have kept the main structure and I have added a little of light to my prototype. In this way you can enjoy in the darkness solving a labyrinth, for example.

I have used to do this derivative model:

1 x Arduino UNO
1 x Bluetooth Arduino Module
2 x Futaba 3003
2 x Ultrasonic Sensors
(Link: seeedstudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ultra_Sonic_range_measurement_module)
1 x Protoboard
2 x 9V power batteries
2 x red LEDs
2 x yellow LEDs
2 x green LEDs
3 x resistors (220 ohms aprox.)

In the next link, it is the first training video:
youtu.be/-5mcAUBTQyI?hd=1

Update May 20, 2012:
Uploaded a new X-Carriage Endstop holder that is designed to attach and give clearance with the triangle frame at the very top.

Update May 13, 2012:
Added a new X-Carriage version that requires no support. It assumes you can bridge well and requires you to cut excess material at the end. Note: I have not actually printed it as of yet, so I can't be sure it all works properly.

Update May 12, 2012:
Here is a video of me printing the Pink Panther Woman thingiverse.com/thing:1216 at full size (147.535mm tall).

youtu.be/c93jLzPYmBQ


Goals:
- Increase the Z Axis Build Range.
- Modify Plastic Parts only and re-use the current Vitamins.

Comments:
- So many plastic parts have been modified, I'm not sure if I should consider this an upgrade or a full blown new printer version.
- It's possible that this change isn't limited to the MakerGear Prusa, but I will leave that to you.
- I had a few issues with the X and Z endstops and had to jury-rig my own solutions. Perhaps I will design some new mounts for these.

Summary:
My original build area was about 80mm, I came across a print that required more height so I decided to try and design my own modification that would give it to me. Looking at my printer, I noticed a few areas that could possibly be improved, so I went to work! My new and improved build height is now 150mm!

Problems and Solutions:
- Problem 01: The rear mounted X axis belt collided with the threaded rod on the triangle frame vertex assembly. This resulted in a clearance issue when raising the nozzle.
To fix this, I had to consider a new location to mount the belt. I chose to utilize the space just underneath the X track rods as that space is already used by the extruder nozzle.

- Problem 02: A good amount of rod space on the Z axis ends up being un-used. The motor mount blocks the Z axis from going beyond the two threaded rods on the top of the printer.
To fix this, I extended the upper frame vertex piece so that it raised the two top rods a good distance. This in turn also raised the Z axis rods so I also extended to lower Z bar clamps to compensate. This worked because the space taken up by the lower clamps was previously un-used rod space anyway.

- Problem 03: My current extruder mount caused a clearance issue because the side mounted motor would go underneath the upper frame vertex. Since my new vertex still blocks this, a new extruder mount was required.
To fix this, I designed a derivitive extruder mount that was essentially the same as the one I was using except the motor protrudes from the rear instead. Since I previously moved the X axis belt, there was no issue with the motor colliding with it. You can find this derivitive here: thingiverse.com/thing:22395.

- Problem 04: I found it difficult to tighten the X track rods in place without causing the X carriage to bind.
To fix this, I changed it from using the tension screws (on the bottom of each X-end) to just having some clamps on the rods themselves. The clamps prevent the rods from sliding out, but it's still ok if they slide a little bit, they don't need to be tightly locked. One of the rods is in a hole that does not give it room to 'wiggle', this gives it the stability it needs so the nozzle doesn't move around in the Y direction. The other rod is in a slightly elongated hole which provides the track with the 'play' needed to keep the carriage from binding. I've found that this modification works well and causes no noticable change in print quality.

The Infinity Garden is my personal version/derivation of the Kontinuum Garden designed by the Rasmussen brothers of Copenhagen, Denmark.

You can read more about their awesome project, or help fund them at this address: indiegogo.com/Kontinuumgarden

Personally, I thought their design could use a few tweaks, so I created this Thing as a Proof-of-Concept, and way to share my thoughts with them. I don't mean to steal any of their thunder, and welcome them to utilize any and all of my ideas shown here!

The biggest improvement I have to offer is that everything in my design can be printed on a Makerbot Cupcake, Thing-O-Matic, or Replicator, thus encouraging maximum availability.

My design was made in SolidWorks, and I've included a .zip file containing all of my original files, assemblies, renderings, etc. Feel free to experiment, modify, and create a neat Thing out of this!

Again, this is a PROOF-OF-CONCEPT only, so I didn't check out dowel sizes at the hardware store, or figure out many of the minute details. So tweaking will be in order before anyone goes off printing this substantially print-intensive beast!

The HelioWatcher is a Solar Tracking and Analytics Platform.

Watch a video of the HelioWatcher in action, here:
youtube.com/watch?v=dGb2fmC4mDg

These are mechanical design files for the project. They include electronics part covers, brackets for moving a solar panel using NEMA17 stepper motors, and brackets for holding a quadrature of LEDS to the solar panel.

Created by Jeremy Blum & Jason Wright.

Codes, Schematics, etc are available on GitHub ( github.com/sciguy14/HelioWatcher ), and more info can be found at heliowatcher.com

In order to preserve the health of my beloved vertebral column, I designed this adapter in order to push my daughter's bobby car using a broom stick.

You will need three nuts, three washers, and a small M8 screw plus a small cut of a M8 bar.

A big kinetic art project for your empty 2 by 4 meters wall. :)

Update:
Movie added youtube.com/watch?v=EIUwBxDOi_w
Update:
Added the electronics box (after a small redesign).
Update:
Added the Tray-List.xlsx if you want to know print times, filament usage and colors used for each tray.

The necklace consists of text (in this case, the words 'awkward turtle') translated into different languages and alphabets. However, any text can be used.

This is a system for adding motion to time lapse films.
Check out the video.
vimeo.com/37495550

slidetracked.com

This stand has a nice feature: The inclination can be adjusted, and therefore the laptop screen position (in height).

From an ergonomic point of view of, the top border of the laptop screen should be at the same height than your eyes.

It is designed to be 20cm width, and this size serves for almost all laptops, from tiny netbooks to the biggest gaming monsters.

You will also need the following vitamins:

• 3 x 8mm (and 20cm long) threaded bars
• 12 x M8 nuts
• 12 x M8 washers

If it's hard for you to find these threaded bars just contact me: I can cut them for you.

Although the provided files are for 3D printers, this stand is a perfect candidate for a laser cutter also.

It is somtimes useful to include cantilever springs in a plastic mecanism. But, because of the many variables involved in printed plastic parts, there is very little information on the properties of the material. Thus experimenting with many different desings become a solution that consume a lot of time and resources.
This device is intended to measure the elasticity constant (Young's modulus), the yield strength (the force required to deform the part) and the ultimate strength (the force required to break the part)

These items are designed for use in a 1:24 scale (1/2-inch = 1-foot) architectural model.

These objects are custom modeled directly from the objects in my personal home, which I designed and built myself. However, they are common household appliances and construction components that can be used in just about any design.

More architectural objects will follow. Download the PDF for brief instructions on how to build your own 1:24 scale home model, and to see what other objects I plan to design for my model home.

The actual photos of my home are for model relation purposes. My 3D model of my home is accurate to within 1/64" in most areas.

2-7-2012: Uploaded a few more progress pictures of the project. I took photos of my TV screen, pellet stove window, and the "bricks" in my engraved concrete entryway, and printed them out on photo paper (to scale), cut them out, and glued them in the appropriate places. Looks great! :)