A dock for the Samsung Galaxy S3.
(Cable and phone not included :p)

Based on Samsung Galaxy S3 model by ONoff.
thingiverse.com/thing:27428

Download the attached STL (sgs3 model mesh.stl) to make the attached SCAD file work.

Update:
uploaded V2 stl, this has a bigger space for the cable and prevents tipping over while pressing the screen. The phone is hold more firmly in this dock.

Note:
The phone fits only without case.

Note:
The cable fits very snug!
If you use some other cable, you should increse the width of the cable-guide-gutter.
That is the 'w'-variable in the scad-file, it can be found under the comment '//USB'.
(look at the cable on the photo, that's not the cable that comes with the phone)

(Samsung Copyright and stuff)

Tired of having your dice go to the forbidden zone of "off the table" to be snatched up by cats and toddlers? This is the solution! Keep the roll secret, keep it safe, until the big reveal! Used for all sorts of games; Catan, D&D, Risk, Axis and Alies, Liars Dice, Last night on Earth, Touch of Evil, Fortune and Glory, shall I go on?

These are spacers to put on a rolling pin so that you can get a specific and even dough thickness. The STL is for a 3/8" dough thickness and about 1 and 7/8" rolling pin. The SCAD file can be edited to make many different dough thicknesses and rolling pin diameters (I didn't try them all though).

Inspired by Halcyon25 on 405th.com.
I didn't like the idea of cutting out every layer and gluing them together.

The plastic printed pieces will be more sturdy than glued paper.

UPDATE: Use the filment guide found at thingiverse.com/thing:64302 with this spool holder for the ultimate in Filament Management and Control Nirvana!

I searched thingverse for a way to mount a spool on the frame of my Mendel Max MM151 3d printer from 3dbotic.com but could not find one, so I created this mount. It is very inexpensive to make, very quick to make, and can accomodate different thicknesses of spools.

Side tanks for the ThunderTiger Neptune SB-1

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

Door Frame Section for Kids Lock
for use with normal child pantry locks but for normal doors with frames

Scalable universal stand for anything on a reel. I use this to dispense PLA to my 3d printer but it could be used for anything on a reel. The reels I am using are recycled electrical cable reels and are 280mm diameter with a 98mm hole, these are very common in these parts and freely available. The whole construction is very much like the mendel prusa frame so is made from 8mm threaded rod, nuts and washers.
All the parts print in around an hour each and it is a good project to tidy up your print area and use up some scraps of filament.
This is the third version of this device.

Just an outline for a prop piece. Holes are to be done manually because of ow you want to wire it. Outer ring is for led with a Plexiglas ring over it. Roughly 4 inches no diameter and 1 inch tall. 99% sure this should print. Yet to try it my self... The image of the device is what it should look like after printing!

Thingiverse has enough toy boats now, so I designed these segments for a 3D-printable ama/outrigger that could actually be used for hull(s) as part of a wee catamaraft or an outrigger canoe. (Starting with a beautiful excited ms-paint concept sketch that preceded a couple days of thought and a night of CAD :)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_%28sailing%29
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outrigger_canoe
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catamaran

STL and STEP files are provided of original blanks and my 3x2/4x2 model, so that hopefully you can adjust this design to whatever size you want and fittings you have available. A SolidWorks eDrawings file is also available to get a quick look at my suggested assembly. Actual rope lashings are not shown, but I hope you can figure out something as simple as cris-crossing a rope to lash 2 beams together, since representing it in a CAD drawing is tedious. Not all the nails are in this diagram either due to defining mates for either end of the assembly being a pain (I've learned to use octagonal holes outside the X-Y plane instead of circular, for ease of printing).

My current pre-holed versions of these models are adjusted so they should fit nicely with 6ft-long beams of 2x3" or 2x4" wood cut to standard North American softwood lumber dimensions:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#Dimensional_lumber
The design shows 6ft 2x3's in the sides holding the outriggers straight, but this could be achieved with shorter scrap lengths by staggering them along either side. A few 1ft-long 2x4's are shown cut to a roughly appropriate shape, but longer beams would be better, and the lateral beams (aka) are 5ft lengths of 2x4" with a notch on one flat side near either end to aid holding position to lashing points.
The nails shown are some 3mm by 45mm aluminium roofing nails that I've just got hold of (if you're going to use metal fasteners at sea, high-grade stainless steel, admiralty brass or aluminium is a must), and there are holes between each designed section that could be used for 6x25mm dowels.

Not shown in pictures yet is a hole that I added across each bow, which could have rope tied through it for rigging or carrying. The two holes shown at the back could be used for a pivot-and-pin adjustable rudder, so that it can be pulled up when launching/beaching and dropped&pinned into place during strong winds.

I might add some more part designs later to enable a very small sail to be rigged easily; when I have time of course, there are so many other fun and useful projects that I could try working on.

Bonus points if you can build one with a sail, solar panel, battery, Arduino GPS Shield, sensors and actuators, and have it circumnavigate the globe autononmously. Zero-fuel automated freight is one goal that I hope we can aim to develop towards (and past :)

Parametric air cap.

My Z-Endstop on my PB was never very stable and was causing me some issues printing. So I decided I would try OpenSCAD and see if I could create a replacement.

This is my first upload and only the second part I have created.

This is my newly designed and built Makerbot Replicator Enclosure that does not require a laser cutter to make. It can be built using your Makerbot Replicator, a band saw, drill press, and one screw driver for assembly. It uses 1/4 inch thick acrylic plastic for all the clear parts so that it will not sag because it is to light weight for the sizes that are needed. It cost less than half of what it would be to have the parts laser cut for you. The top hood and front window opening are easily removed in seconds without tools so it is simple to access the Makerbot when you want to make adjustments, print a part or remove finished parts.

A simple calibration ruler and numbers font for OpenSCAD.
A simple mono-spaced number font designed for 10x10mm per digit.

This is a device used for testing middle school students' structures. It is an improvement on putting a structure across two sawhorses and hanging weights from the structure!

I've used it for "Jinx Wood" bridge structures as well as sheet metal structures.

Check out my TeacherHann YouTube Channel - youtube.com/teacherhann - for videos of my students projects being tested to destruction!

Kudos to my colleague, fellow middle school Design and Technology teacher Gord McGill for allowing me to replicate his idea!

An easy paper toy with a hidden suprise! Lift the top off the mushkin to see what's underneath. This is the plain vanilla version of the Mushkin, you can download other designs from my website at tang-mu.co.uk/downloads but I'd love to see what you can come up with.

Update May 20, 2012:
Uploaded a new X-Carriage Endstop holder that is designed to attach and give clearance with the triangle frame at the very top.

Update May 13, 2012:
Added a new X-Carriage version that requires no support. It assumes you can bridge well and requires you to cut excess material at the end. Note: I have not actually printed it as of yet, so I can't be sure it all works properly.

Update May 12, 2012:
Here is a video of me printing the Pink Panther Woman thingiverse.com/thing:1216 at full size (147.535mm tall).

youtu.be/c93jLzPYmBQ


Goals:
- Increase the Z Axis Build Range.
- Modify Plastic Parts only and re-use the current Vitamins.

Comments:
- So many plastic parts have been modified, I'm not sure if I should consider this an upgrade or a full blown new printer version.
- It's possible that this change isn't limited to the MakerGear Prusa, but I will leave that to you.
- I had a few issues with the X and Z endstops and had to jury-rig my own solutions. Perhaps I will design some new mounts for these.

Summary:
My original build area was about 80mm, I came across a print that required more height so I decided to try and design my own modification that would give it to me. Looking at my printer, I noticed a few areas that could possibly be improved, so I went to work! My new and improved build height is now 150mm!

Problems and Solutions:
- Problem 01: The rear mounted X axis belt collided with the threaded rod on the triangle frame vertex assembly. This resulted in a clearance issue when raising the nozzle.
To fix this, I had to consider a new location to mount the belt. I chose to utilize the space just underneath the X track rods as that space is already used by the extruder nozzle.

- Problem 02: A good amount of rod space on the Z axis ends up being un-used. The motor mount blocks the Z axis from going beyond the two threaded rods on the top of the printer.
To fix this, I extended the upper frame vertex piece so that it raised the two top rods a good distance. This in turn also raised the Z axis rods so I also extended to lower Z bar clamps to compensate. This worked because the space taken up by the lower clamps was previously un-used rod space anyway.

- Problem 03: My current extruder mount caused a clearance issue because the side mounted motor would go underneath the upper frame vertex. Since my new vertex still blocks this, a new extruder mount was required.
To fix this, I designed a derivitive extruder mount that was essentially the same as the one I was using except the motor protrudes from the rear instead. Since I previously moved the X axis belt, there was no issue with the motor colliding with it. You can find this derivitive here: thingiverse.com/thing:22395.

- Problem 04: I found it difficult to tighten the X track rods in place without causing the X carriage to bind.
To fix this, I changed it from using the tension screws (on the bottom of each X-end) to just having some clamps on the rods themselves. The clamps prevent the rods from sliding out, but it's still ok if they slide a little bit, they don't need to be tightly locked. One of the rods is in a hole that does not give it room to 'wiggle', this gives it the stability it needs so the nozzle doesn't move around in the Y direction. The other rod is in a slightly elongated hole which provides the track with the 'play' needed to keep the carriage from binding. I've found that this modification works well and causes no noticable change in print quality.

A big kinetic art project for your empty 2 by 4 meters wall. :)

Update:
Movie added youtube.com/watch?v=EIUwBxDOi_w
Update:
Added the electronics box (after a small redesign).
Update:
Added the Tray-List.xlsx if you want to know print times, filament usage and colors used for each tray.

A test mini-shelf for tiny, awkwardly shaped trinkets.

Inspired by the wonderfully sci-fi and organic looking Voronoi diagrams, this test shelf layout was generated from Hero-Design's Voronoi Bookshelf Generator, and then hand-converted into 3d printable connectors.

Hero-Design's Generator -
hero-design.com/2012/03/22/voronoi-bookshelf-prototype-experiment-interactive-generative-design/

Wikipedia Article on Voronoi Diagrams -
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voronoi_diagram

It is somtimes useful to include cantilever springs in a plastic mecanism. But, because of the many variables involved in printed plastic parts, there is very little information on the properties of the material. Thus experimenting with many different desings become a solution that consume a lot of time and resources.
This device is intended to measure the elasticity constant (Young's modulus), the yield strength (the force required to deform the part) and the ultimate strength (the force required to break the part)

These items are designed for use in a 1:24 scale (1/2-inch = 1-foot) architectural model.

These objects are custom modeled directly from the objects in my personal home, which I designed and built myself. However, they are common household appliances and construction components that can be used in just about any design.

More architectural objects will follow. Download the PDF for brief instructions on how to build your own 1:24 scale home model, and to see what other objects I plan to design for my model home.

The actual photos of my home are for model relation purposes. My 3D model of my home is accurate to within 1/64" in most areas.

2-7-2012: Uploaded a few more progress pictures of the project. I took photos of my TV screen, pellet stove window, and the "bricks" in my engraved concrete entryway, and printed them out on photo paper (to scale), cut them out, and glued them in the appropriate places. Looks great! :)

This 3D print is a replacement for the main part of the overflow assembly of your Thermolec Furnace humidifier. To make sure your furnace humidifier does not spill water into your furnace, an overflow tube is provided. If it is plastic like the one in my furnace, it can be broken easily.

in order to make the Robbe U47 a static diver. It really needs a new techrack.

An easily replaceable air filter for rewrap enclosures.

I have been working on a makerbot that is controlled by the adafruit motor shield. I made all the parts and wooden pieces by hand using a saw. Once i had all the wooden pieces I put it together and added 2 nema 17 stepper motors for the x and y axis. I used a parallax continous rotation servo for the z axis. The code isbased on some code by Max Livesey and I edited it so it will 3d print instead of ploting. I built the whole thing for around 250 us dollars.
(it is using an arduino mega so analog pins can be used with an extruder board i built)

Revisiting the key-card, car-keys, and a bit of change holder.

In our ground floor office we have old aluminum sliding windows whose pane does not seal well enough to prevent the wind from entering through the space inbetween. This 3D printed part solves the cold-wind-penetration issue :)

This is to be used on the bottom part of the window, if you are looking for the piece for the upper part of the windows check out thingiverse.com/thing:12942/

Just measure your Aluminum window pane width and adjust the printed part size to fit snugly.

This is my British themed Prusa Mendel.

For more details on the design and build, please see my Blog - richrap.blogspot.com/2011/10/made-in-insert-country-here-british.html

Video's of the build and printing can be seen on my Youtube channel - youtube.com/user/RichRap2011

I hope you like it.

Summary
Make the electronics accessible by just turning the TOM on it's side.

Problems with current Thing-o-matic electronics mount design
1. You can't route all the cables in the build phase.
2. Some of the cables are pretty tight once you get the printer set up all the way.
3. You can't access the electronics without 3 hands.
4. You can't reach anything even if you did have 3 hands.
5. When the dog get tangled in the USB cable and breaks the USB port on the motherboard, you have to tear the whole thing down.

My solution
Flip the electronics board over with a cutout for the power supply. Then mount it up inside the chassis.