This is a spinoff from my boxotron software. It creates a dxf for a paper box.

I was just going to alter the boxotron script but ended up rewriting the majority of it.

The box design was shamelessly stolen from 4Volt ( thingiverse.com/thing:254 ) Thanks 4Volt !

It is only good for thin card ( for now ) as the insets and offsets for thicker material are not calculated.

Much like the boxotron this is a command line program , run ./cardbox.py -h for more information

This is a work-in-progress (not fabricated/prototyped yet), exploring how to design a CNC/laser cuttable extruder head assembly for Makerbot/CandyFab applications.

- Target material is 0.9mm thick steel/aluminum as provided by ponoko.com/
- Routed channels are 1mm or 2mm wide
- Bolt-holes are 2mm in diameter.

- The pieces are to bolt together, then heater wire wrapped around the indented sides.
- Material is fed from the top; air from the side ports.
- If a magnetic material like steel is chosen for the Upper Plate, air feeds could be magnetically attached.

- Total design height is 70mm to allow for three stages of heater-wire wrap for graduated heating temperatures.
- Removing one or two of the stages would shorten the height by 16mm or 32mm respectively.

- License set to Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons. Feel free to adapt and make money off it as long as you share your mods!

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.22 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body, with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.21 (See project website for v0.21):
* dimensions of net refined for better fit to battery and pcb, and sleeve.
* transmission seems to be fine on the whole.
* spacing and hole sizes fixed for components on PCB

v0.21 solved many of the issues of v0.1:
* a lot less bulky, more friendly on the pocket
* improved component layout, slimmer, more stable
* no nasty cable ties
* more accessible for those without laser cutting facilities - can be hand cut, or plotter cut.
* cardboard more resilient at joints than acrylic.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.22:
* circuit box part needs to be restrained within sleeve - fiddly when removing battery tray.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.
* separate, powered, mic design required.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

I said I would make this a long time ago...

Pretty self explanatory.... it's a bracelet with braille on it (the braille reads "makerbot")

I used 1/4" felt to make it nice and comfy and add some visual flare

This design can be adapted in so many ways (doesn't just have to be braille) and it's really easy to design/print/put-together.

EXTRA BONUS POINTS for whoever adapts this design for the makerbot watch :)

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.24 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body (shirt card), with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.22/0.23:
* Full assembly instructions on instructables.
* Artwork/info added on housing.
* Stereo/mono conflict resolved - can now accommodate stereo and mono plugs.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.24:
* circuit box slides around when switching on/off or plugging in.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

this is a digital 7 segment led wall clock with 42mm high digits based on a atmel atmega168.
the display modules come from RFT, a former manufacturer in the GDR(DDR). (second hand)

UPDATE 2010-03-19
I've added new pictures and completed the build and usage instructions. I spent my time on those so am still cleaning up the OpenSCAD files.

UPDATE 2010-03-05
I've uploaded two new STL files. These supersede all previous versions:

* MouseMotel_0.3.stl
* MouseMotelLid_0.3.stl

These are for a 70 mm ID bottle. I used a 20 oz/591 mL one.
I've uploaded an OpenSCAD screen grab of the parts assembled to show how they go together.

Once I clean up the MouseMotel.scad file I will upload it too.

UPDATE 2010-03-04
I've uploaded an STL file of the main part. I still need to tweak the flap that contains the mouse.

UPDATE 2010-03-02
Look at the photo; mine works!
And it's still alive!

;)

Seriously, since any garbage can contains a suitable enclosure for the trap, i.e., a soda or water bottle, I decide to focus on creating a printable one-way flap that can be fitted to a cut-down bottle. This reduces the size and number of parts necessary for the trap and because I used my favorite modeling tool, OpenSCAD, I parameterized the design so it can be used for bottles of various diameters.

Here's the basic concept:

* Cut off the top of your selected bottle
* Size and print a ring that fits inside bottle
* Print flap that sits inside the ring
* Insert 2 3 mm captive nuts into holes on outside of ring
* Insert ring into bottle
* Punch/cut holes for stabilizers
* Insert stabilizers into captive nuts
* Insert a length of 3 mm plastic feedstock to function as the flap hinge pin
* Place motel at desired location
* Bait motel with peanut butter
* Wait

The mouse will smell the bait, enter the one-way flap in the bottle to get it, and be trapped!

The stabilizers on either side of the bottle will keep it from rolling around as the mouse explores its new home.

I'm still working on a few details, and will update this thing as I finalize them.

This was a project that I have been working on for a few months on an off. The wheels are a little larger than 2 inches ind diameter. The are designed to be used on the Tamiya 3mm shaft gearboxes.

These where the ones that where featured on the Make: website.
blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/3d-printable_mecanum_wheel.html

There are two versions of the .STL The one that ended in inches is the one I used for the 3d-print. The other one should be in millimeters. For some reason the file size is different.

The .STl files are large. Download the zip file not the .STL

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

After losing a toothpaste cap down the sink, I decided to create a screen to catch objects, but still allow water drainage. The design is parameterized so you can use OpenSCAD to generate a drain screen personalized to your sink configuration. It consists of a top plate with square holes in it, and a short sleeve that fits inside the inner diameter of the drain pipe and centers the screen.

Note that on my poorly tuned MakerBot, producing a fine rectangular grid is very tough, so the default grid is quite coarse. (Even that did not come out so great.) MakerBots tuned for fine detail or bigger screens will probably have more successful prints.

Your drain is probably not the same size as mine, so the attached STL file is just for illustrative purposes. I would not suggest using it directly.

This design is based on a portable backpacker acoustic and a toy cardboard guitar for children. Its intent is to explore whether cardboard can be strong enough to withstand the stresses of a guitar string while flexible enough to produce an attractive musical tone.

I would also like to see if it's possible to make a flatpack version in pine sheets, but I would need to make a wood steamer first.

This is an entry into the Make/Makerbot contest :)

Over the summer I plan on making a load bearing leg support. It features a variety of functions from acting as a support structure, load bearing assistance, attaching holsters, attaching leg and shin guards, etc.
For now, I started with the shoe portion to test out if it can support me (approx. 160 lbs)
Most of the measurements are approximations where the holes should be treated as pilot holes for threading in M16 bolts and the hex gaps should be enough to fit both the head of the bolt and the hex nuts depending on where you position them
This is a very basic design and its up to you to modify it to your needs, Theres enough space to add a few batteries, drill some holes into the plastic and add LED's. If it is good enough to support a person's weight, I hope to one day attach wheels to make it a roller skate and eventually one day maybe replace going to the shoe store and just printing out a custom shoe. The extrusion on the heel is to allow for the attachment of linear actuators for assisted walking.

This box is designed to protect the table beneath your PCB from scratches, while giving you full access to the PCB top layer.

This is a base for a bicycle light

My buddy and I had a design challenge to see which one of us could design a rocket that flew the highest. As you can see by the video. It was pretty clear who the winner was.

The first rocket in the video is one i designed a long time ago and drilled out and hammered in a rocket motor thingiverse.com/thing:1337 :P

the second rocket launched is designed by me aka rocket challenge.stl (or something like that)

and the final rocket (launched twice) was my buddy gideon's and its part X i believe.


youtube.com/watch?v=yoNc0DGa-xk

Keeping track of the subtle difference between M3 x 10mm vs M3 x 12mm can be a challenge on the best of days. Accidentally mix them up and you're occupied for the next hour fumbling through the pile with a ruler for the closest match.

Save yourself some grief and print off one (or more) of these reference cards to assist with your Thing-O-Matic assembly!

They should cover all the bolt sizes used in the Thing-O-Matic itself, the Automated Build Platform (V2) and Plastruder MK5.

This is a carrier for Hendrik Hölscher's DMX transciever.
Link to his site for the Transceiver hardware: hoelscher-hi.de/hendrik/english/led.htm
Transceiver by Hendrik Hölscher.

MakerBot Compatible.

I made the head in Hexagon 2.5.0.5. I wanted the head to look like the head on the new Robotis robot DARwIn-OP.

robotis.com/xe/

mike-ibioloid.blogspot.com/

sourceforge.net/projects/darwinop/?sms_ss=blogger&at_xt=4cf135c87d86608b,0

This is my second DIY 3 axis cnc machine. It is designed in solidworks 2008 (~50-60 hours) and built mostly out of MDF. Provided are all the source files and drawings in both solidworks and edrawing formats. This machine is possible to make with just some hand & power tools, but I used my first cnc machine to make most of the smaller parts.

The machine uses chinese linear rails and ballscrews from ebay seller linearmotionbearings2008. With the 1.8Nm stepper motors I use with geckodrive g540 it achieves 10m/min rapids and 5m/min feedrates. The working area is about 110cm x 60cm x 10cm.

Expected cost to build a machine like this from scratch is 1000-1300 euros. It also took me over 80 hours to build.

For my wedding in October 2011 I asked my fiance if I could build something, she only asked that it not be tacky. This is what I came up with. It's a modular folding photo booth. I designed the model in Sketchup, programmed it in Autoit, and gave it a nice Glados voice. I needed an input device and I decided to make a serial comm button. I took a 555 timer and made it generate a 4.8kHz square wave. At 9600 baud this translates to UUUUUUUU plus one garbage character when the button is released. for now it only uses a Webcam to take photos but hopefully I will be find a deal on a canon power shot sometime in the next months to upgrade it. Since the printouts are resized, the small webcam resolution isn't noticable, however it won't be suitable if i wanted to incorporate the singles frames into a album. I'm working on some upgrades using the twitter api so I can have the booth update me whenever it is taking photos. This way I can tell it's status and share photos easier.


Here is a video of it's assembly and the software.

youtube.com/watch?v=jNGg821bC7c

This model was inspired by a stellation of the Icosahedron. I started out with a cardboard model. To that I glued pieces of CDs that I cut and painted a blueish-green. The center pentagons are aluminum that I cut from pop cans, turned inside out, and glued to the cardboard.

After destroying several plastic belts in silly experiments, I needed a cheaper and quicker way of sourcing replacements. There's nothing cheaper and quicker than making your own with kapton tape and paper! I think it works even better than the plastic belts because of better adhesion and less surface warping. Works with the Cupcake's ABP V1.0 and on the Thing-O-Matic's ABP (although you quickly get wrinkles in the middle because of the roller gap)

This is a spreadsheet to get feed rates for your TOM into the ballpark for nice printing, based on a W/T and a layer height you choose. Flow rate is fixed at 255 PWM due to the extruder firmware and the spreadsheet also helps determine what your flowrate is.

This is a work in progress, I cannot be responsible for you totalling your TOM as some basic assumptions I have may be wrong, and my math might be crap. Thanks to Dave Durant who steered my thinking in a different direction, and gave me some impetus to think of an easier way to calibrate my 'bot.

A spreadsheet and procedure for setting up Skeinforge paramaters for calibration of Makerbots having DC motor extruders such as the MK4 and Mk5

In the course of my final paper about “FabLab – The use of an innovative Workshop concept for education in Media Technology studies” I developed a "wireless lens control system" for video cameras. It´s not running properly yet, but I´m working on it. Here is what I got so far...

ps, tips and suggestions are welcome

This is a Derivative of the original Yazzo PolyBot by WilliamAAdams. I found the original design to be something I wanted to build and test with immediately. So I found some things I wanted to do differently and wanted other people to experiment with this awesome robot.

UPDATE: The Female and Male Clevis Elbows I had uploaded here are the wrong size. I no longer have the proper size on my computer. Please follow these links to get them:

thingiverse.com/thing:8130
thingiverse.com/thing:8129

On the original Polybot the files were spread around Thingiverse and were very hard to find, I have consolidated them into one spot.

I have also changed the threaded rod connectors of the Tetrahedron support structure. These new ones should be much easier to print and will print without support. They should also be much sturdier.

I have also changed the servo brackets to make them much easier to mount the servos. You no longer have to take apart your servos and struggle with getting them back together in order to mount them. The servos also sit out further off the platform. With the original design, the servos sat too far in on the platform making it impossible to get a good range of motion for the servo arms.

One of the negatives of these new designs is the need for fasteners. The original PolyBot was designed to use as few fasteners as possible. This one can be edited to make the holes smaller on the printed parts for the threaded rod to fit snugly into without the use of nuts. I prefer to use nuts because it makes assembly so much easier. Nuts are pretty inexpensive too and you are probably going to be in the hardware store anyway for the threaded rod.

Currently, I am using standard Medium Hobby Servos to move the arms. For now they work really well and easily move the lightweight arms of this bot.

As for the micro-controller, I am using a Picaxe 28X/40X. But you can use whatever you like.

If you find this bot to be interesting, I seriously recommend printing and building it. It is pretty cheap to build and doesn't take much time. It is a lot of fun to mess around with. As for improvements, I already have a bunch of ideas in mind. And I know WilliamAAdams is working on improvements for the original Cranberry Yazzo Polybot, hopefully he will release something soon!

Here is a video of it moving... I should have gotten it to do something more interesting. But I have to go to work in the morning and I spent the night preparing the files and doing this write-up. Kind of lame, more and better video soon! I promise!

flickr.com/photos/58101887@N02/5587175033/

Another update... I couldn't leave it for the night with just that crappy first video. So I programmed some numbers that might make the bot look like it is moving semi-coherently.

So here is a better video of Delta Robot Movement:

youtube.com/watch?v=fWZOHDWu0EM

This is a basket that will catch parts as they come off the Automatic Build Platform of the Thing-O-Matic. It will likely work just fine with the Cupcake as well.