Phone holder for quick change tripods.

STL is adjusted for Galaxy Nexus. Made some changes since I last printed so let me know if I need to make any corrections to the file.

I need a machine for Milling small Things (alu, PCB´s ) and wanted to be able to 3d Print as well so thats my solution
And I simply want to know what you people think about that ,..

Turn your Prusa Mendel World upside down!

And increase your Z-axis build space by 40% !!!

I've been printing this way for over a month now.

The stl and scad files below are for the 126mm tube that is printed in the picture.

Here's a YouTube video of the last part of the print:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=O6T0TAdobz4

Preliminary design for a standrad Mendel Prusa printer. Design goals:
* Combine printer, PSU, RAMPS controller and LCD+keypad into on box.
* Allow printer to be easily put in and out of box (top bar can be unscrewed to allow printer to be taken out/in).
* High visibility on printing process (plexiglass windows surrounding machine).
* Easy access to print platform and end-stops (hinged flap on front, semi-attached flap on the back.
* As air tight as possible to keep toxic ABS fumes enclosed and stabilize temperature control.
* Don't use toxic air to cool PSU and controller.
* Integrate spindle holder on machine (with multi-extruder/spindles as option.

Design was done keeping in mind standard wood pieces and plexiglass. FreeCAD is used to make the design.

A dock for the Samsung Galaxy S3.
(Cable and phone not included :p)

Based on Samsung Galaxy S3 model by ONoff.
thingiverse.com/thing:27428

Download the attached STL (sgs3 model mesh.stl) to make the attached SCAD file work.

Update:
uploaded V2 stl, this has a bigger space for the cable and prevents tipping over while pressing the screen. The phone is hold more firmly in this dock.

Note:
The phone fits only without case.

Note:
The cable fits very snug!
If you use some other cable, you should increse the width of the cable-guide-gutter.
That is the 'w'-variable in the scad-file, it can be found under the comment '//USB'.
(look at the cable on the photo, that's not the cable that comes with the phone)

(Samsung Copyright and stuff)

So, there were a bunch of clips on Thingiverse, but they either weren't parametric to easily customize for my shelving or I didn't like them for aesthetic reasons. So I decided it was time to finally learn SCAD, and whipped this up just barely in time to get a stocking up for Christmas.

Please post if you made one and if it worked or if it had problems.

I tried to emphasize strength with minimal clip size and plastic use while maintaining easy printability (no overhangs, no holes in z...). Suggestions welcome, I'm no mechanical engineer!

Inspired by Halcyon25 on 405th.com.
I didn't like the idea of cutting out every layer and gluing them together.

The plastic printed pieces will be more sturdy than glued paper.

This hand pump is located at the Wilson Montessori school Wonderground SPARK park in Houston wilsonspark.org/ It gives the kids a safe way to get water to play with, and demonstrates James Watt's straight line linkage.

A calibration Square with a circle in it. 105mm squared. The Circle will show problems better then the square will.

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

This device is a small saw table for tubes, slotting, ring making eta.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

This is a derivative of scooter46290's 'propeller for quadmini', intended for a miniature quadcopter. However, I've adapted some of the dimensions and hole sizes, and added a set-screw whole to accomodate both my preferred (and widely available) motors at pololu.com/catalog/category/60", and a powered glider design I'm working on.

A ring that can be inscribed with a message in binary around the outer band. Very useful for "special" occasions.

This design was used to print the engagement ring for my then-girlfriend, but now-fiance. I can attest to the effectiveness of this design :) Several revisions were printed in several plastics from Shapeways. Frosted detail probably was the most impressive plastic version due to a slight transparency. White strong and flexible worked, but did not reproduce the engravings well. The silver print from Shapeways came out very well.

Simple thing to attach a fiber optic and collimating lens to a panel, with a spacer. we only had a few hundred microns of tolerance, but this centers the fiber. It's crude, but it works.

Made with OpenSCAD.

This is a shelving option that clamps onto your desk and can store many things and keep notes to keep you organzied

A Fabrication Laboratory singular person high table.
Using no glue or any other joining methods other than slot and finger joins.

It is 900mm high and the top table surface is 700 x 700mm

It's made to be routed out on a CNC router out of a 2440x1220 sheet of 18mm ply.
I adjusted tolerances for the ply I had which was about 18.6mm birch ply.

A single sheet of polypropylene folded to create a 450mm-high stool. Intended for use in a design studio or around any low table/desk.

Handle and handle body to fix a delonghi coffee steam handle that had snapped off. Unit is woth $1600 new and the replacement parts for the steamer were $400...! Enter the printrbot and some good old fashioned making.

a frigate from en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman

This is a super-simple belt driven syringe-based extruder for viscous or non-newtonian fluids such as peanut butter. it uses the MakerBot MK6's 100oz-in stepper motor to provide the necessary force, and applies pressure to the syringe via the mechanical advantage of a belt based reduction. This potentially also increases the resolutuon of the steps/volume, but very little experimentation has been done with fine control of the flow rate.
This model was designed around scraps I happened to have laying around, but it works really well.

This extruder was co-designed with Scott Beibin in July 2012, specially for use in the Groucho Fractal Show - grouchofractal.com

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

Extruder for printing with ceramic. Still in development, but we already produced nice results. See pictures for results. Added new photos and info.

Thingiverse has enough toy boats now, so I designed these segments for a 3D-printable ama/outrigger that could actually be used for hull(s) as part of a wee catamaraft or an outrigger canoe. (Starting with a beautiful excited ms-paint concept sketch that preceded a couple days of thought and a night of CAD :)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_%28sailing%29
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outrigger_canoe
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catamaran

STL and STEP files are provided of original blanks and my 3x2/4x2 model, so that hopefully you can adjust this design to whatever size you want and fittings you have available. A SolidWorks eDrawings file is also available to get a quick look at my suggested assembly. Actual rope lashings are not shown, but I hope you can figure out something as simple as cris-crossing a rope to lash 2 beams together, since representing it in a CAD drawing is tedious. Not all the nails are in this diagram either due to defining mates for either end of the assembly being a pain (I've learned to use octagonal holes outside the X-Y plane instead of circular, for ease of printing).

My current pre-holed versions of these models are adjusted so they should fit nicely with 6ft-long beams of 2x3" or 2x4" wood cut to standard North American softwood lumber dimensions:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#Dimensional_lumber
The design shows 6ft 2x3's in the sides holding the outriggers straight, but this could be achieved with shorter scrap lengths by staggering them along either side. A few 1ft-long 2x4's are shown cut to a roughly appropriate shape, but longer beams would be better, and the lateral beams (aka) are 5ft lengths of 2x4" with a notch on one flat side near either end to aid holding position to lashing points.
The nails shown are some 3mm by 45mm aluminium roofing nails that I've just got hold of (if you're going to use metal fasteners at sea, high-grade stainless steel, admiralty brass or aluminium is a must), and there are holes between each designed section that could be used for 6x25mm dowels.

Not shown in pictures yet is a hole that I added across each bow, which could have rope tied through it for rigging or carrying. The two holes shown at the back could be used for a pivot-and-pin adjustable rudder, so that it can be pulled up when launching/beaching and dropped&pinned into place during strong winds.

I might add some more part designs later to enable a very small sail to be rigged easily; when I have time of course, there are so many other fun and useful projects that I could try working on.

Bonus points if you can build one with a sail, solar panel, battery, Arduino GPS Shield, sensors and actuators, and have it circumnavigate the globe autononmously. Zero-fuel automated freight is one goal that I hope we can aim to develop towards (and past :)

This is a full print for a single color. The sizes are roughly based off of the spare parts from Erik's upload: thingiverse.com/thing:770

A calibration part that I designed to test the xy accuracy. The weird shape is to try and eliminate measuring inaccuracies.

3D printable wheel for use on robots and other cool toys. Note: This tire has not yet been tested/printed.

As if another calibration print is needed...

A large square used for calibrating the axes on your 3D printer. Only uses 1000 mm^2 of filament.

SketchUp file is included.

Swaps for the original wooden part so one can mount a small 40mm fan on the bridge for cooling the Printrbot's work!

It's a small calibration square for your 3d printer.