Turn your Prusa Mendel World upside down!

And increase your Z-axis build space by 40% !!!

I've been printing this way for over a month now.

The stl and scad files below are for the 126mm tube that is printed in the picture.

Here's a YouTube video of the last part of the print:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=O6T0TAdobz4

This is an adaptation of Makergear's concept for micro-adjusting the z-axis height for a Prusa Mendel. I needed it to be able to adjust the height after I flipped my x-axis here:

thingiverse.com/thing:40192

See instructions below for a more detailed explanation.

And please forgive the lousy print in the photos, I had some loose bolts on the print bed when I printed it. Of course, it's such a simple part that it doesn't affect the operation of the bolt.

Just for fun, something to keep that special someone in your life close at hand;-) Printed in PLA at 40% infill they are quite sturdy- although breakable in a pinch (a requirement in anything that encircles the neck). The rings work well with paracord.

The Large Collar has a 14cm internal diameter.
The Large Manacle's internal dimensions are 5.6 cm x 6.5 cm.

The Small Collar has a 12cm internal diameter.
The Small Manacle's internal dimensions are 4.9 cm x 6 cm.

Top Z Vertex with stabilized lead screw holder.
I have not tested this but it should work.

Top Z Vertex with stabilized lead screw holder.
Works perfect together with Thing:
thingiverse.com/thing:23909

Here is the version for 8mm rods:
thingiverse.com/thing:39172

This is a new kind of cooling system for hot-ends, based on a little air pump.

The ring is designed for a ORD Bot Hadron, but can be adapted for other 3D printers.

Combination of the Greg's Accessible Extruder and Wade's Extruder. Easily bolts on to the Open X Carriage. thingiverse.com/thing:21276

This extruder design combines the very cool design improvements by GregFrost with a wades-esque body, which allows the stepper motor to be slid into place so that gears of various size will still work.

The extruder drive gear has been redesigned so that the stem is slightly shorter, making it compatable with both Greg's and Wade's style extruders. The captive nut is placed closer to the top of the print to make it easy to slip it in as soon as it's done.

The driven gear is designed to be both sturdy as well as resistant to warp due to not being a completely solid piece.

This is a proof of concept of a strong rotation module, which can be used in various robotic systems.

An example is given as png image. This is a new yaw rotation for the IMU tracker a friend is building:

logre.eu/wiki/Stabilisateur_Tracker_GPS_%C3%A0_IMU

You can shoot at the bottle with a rubber band. If you hit it, the bottle falls down and get raised up by a lever.

This device is a small saw table for tubes, slotting, ring making eta.

UPDATE: Use the filment guide found at thingiverse.com/thing:64302 with this spool holder for the ultimate in Filament Management and Control Nirvana!

I searched thingverse for a way to mount a spool on the frame of my Mendel Max MM151 3d printer from 3dbotic.com but could not find one, so I created this mount. It is very inexpensive to make, very quick to make, and can accomodate different thicknesses of spools.

This bracket replaces the somewhat flimsy stock piece for the Solidoodle 2. My factory brackets were both cracked and due to the lack of stability, it was causing poor accuracy/repeatability in the y-axis.

The overkill bracket is an even beefier piece. Both work. I've got one of each installed right now.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

This allows you to mount your PSU’s under a standard height MendelMax without increasing the height of the MendelMax.
This is of course assuming you have enough clearance for the print bed to move.

This is a 1/3 scale model of the bipedal robot ROFI (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32048). It has all of the same parts as ROFI, but the electronics and servos are all printed (i.e. the robot isn't going to be moving by itself without a lot of imagination ;-). I originally created it because I just got a Replicator 2 and wanted to see what the new printer was capable of. After the model was printed and sitting on my desk two things occurred to me :

1. Working at 1/3 scale would be really useful for prototyping future robots.

2. Because it was so fast and cheap (3 hours to print and $2 in parts) it might be a good "gateway drug" to get more people to try building robots. After all, I never really thought I could build robots until I downloaded the parts and built a modified Z stage for my Cupcake printer.

This is a Stirling engine which is a type of heat engine. It needs about a 50 degF (28 degC) heat differential to run and cruises about 300 rpm unloaded.

This is a simple bracket to hold my smart card reader on my screen.

This also makes a handy business card holder, that is how I am reusing my first iteration print.

Please read the instructions before downloading files!

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces*, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches. The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129250268/in/photostream

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129224609/in/photostream/


The smooth rods I used are: mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x 400mm)

Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with broken firmware.

Side tanks for the ThunderTiger Neptune SB-1

Trawling Tthingiverse I could not find a ready-made solution that fit my wide spools (155 mm wide). Also I have such a variety of widths that I did not want to print an exclusive (parametric) one for each width.

This set is adjustable (30 mm - 180 mm) and only comprises of two distinct models (printed 4 times each). The flanges on the bearings are rounded to correct the "seat" of any slightly deformed spools.

This is another set of rises that clip onto 6 mm ply (on my Ultimaker) that fit the Ikea Dioder 16670 (801.194.20 in Australia). Although very similar to another thing, they are not a derivative (my models are attached).

As the LED strips are bigger than the top opening on the UM, one axis will need to sit above the other.

This is a shelving option that clamps onto your desk and can store many things and keep notes to keep you organzied

Night Light Diamond.
Soft blue light.
Plug in ~220 V.

This is my version of a 3D printed quadcopter. I designed it from the ground up for FPV, but it will work equally well as an aerobatic quad. This quad had been under development and testing over the last few months. Thanks to a lot of input from the members of this site I have decided to publish it as a finished thing. That being said I will continue to develop and add components/ modules for this quadcopter in order to make it more customizable. I am also in the process of designing a tricopter and a hexacopter. Many of the components will be interchangeable across my line. Print, fly and enjoy. As always input is always appreciated. Thanks everyone for all the support.

Electronics List:
Motors - RCTimer 750 Kv
rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=573&productname=

ESCs - Turnigy Plush 30A
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2164__TURNIGY_Plush_30amp_Speed_Controller.html

Battery - Turnigy Nanotech 3S or 4S 4000mah
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11927__Turnigy_nano_tech_4000mah_3S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

Flight Controller - KK 2.0
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24723__Hobbyking_KK2_0_Multi_rotor_LCD_Flight_Control_Board.html



Update 3/18/13: Added the Bottom Plate for use with the Tube spacers. The only change was a new set of holes on the Bottom plate.

This spool holder uses a section of 5/8" copper pipe cut to length, capped with an insert to lock the spool in place.

The default STL is sized to fit the smaller spools that Voxel Factory (a relatively local to me, Montreal-based source for plastic) uses. The smaller of the spools they use has a 30mm inner hole diameter.

Pen holder designed to be mounted in one of the spare extruder mounts on the RepRapPro Mendel.

Can be used to hold a pen for general purpose plotting or in my case PCB plotting.

"RA"
a DIY 3d Printable Virtual Reality Head mounted display

Fov: 120+ deg
Weight: 1lb 8oz
Cost: $450
Headtracking: yes

video showing the FOV range.
youtu.be/p10V3lca-DY

video of RA in Use.
youtu.be/pujeMSP6dmo

A tool to make lines parallel to the edge of a piece of material.
This will hold anything from a Sharpie to a x-acto.

In order to mount clamp-style bar-end mirrors to the Triumph Tiger 1050 (and some other Triumphs), a bar-end-mirror adaptor is required as the factory bar-ends are much much much too large in diameter.

This is a pretty simple mount designed to facilitate mounting of the CRG Bar End mirrors onto a Tiger 1050. It re-uses the factory screw and cosmetic washer for mounting, provides a shelf for the mirror to clamp onto (21mm diameter), and generally tries to minimise the width of the handlebars by recessing the cosmetic washer inside the bar end.

This is a super-simple belt driven syringe-based extruder for viscous or non-newtonian fluids such as peanut butter. it uses the MakerBot MK6's 100oz-in stepper motor to provide the necessary force, and applies pressure to the syringe via the mechanical advantage of a belt based reduction. This potentially also increases the resolutuon of the steps/volume, but very little experimentation has been done with fine control of the flow rate.
This model was designed around scraps I happened to have laying around, but it works really well.

This extruder was co-designed with Scott Beibin in July 2012, specially for use in the Groucho Fractal Show - grouchofractal.com