I've been meaning to make a printable camera for a while now but I\'ve found it difficult to get all the dimensions nice and to have it be printable. Hopefully this one is both printable and just generally cool. Because the Makerbot, or any 3D printer for that matter, isn't the greatest at making pinholes, this design assumes you can make your own out of tinfoil or a soda can or whatever and attach it to the front. It uses a very simple/primitive shutter mechanism where you just lift up the front tab for however long you want to expose the film. The back is curved to give a cool distorted affect hopefully. Of course this could be fixed and made straight but where's the fun in that? The top just simply rests on top so you'll probably want to tape that down once you load your film.

It uses 120 (medium format film) and will probably be need to be loaded in the dark.

I'm sure it'll have some problems but the idea of being able to print your own camera was too cool to pass up.


**Holga Shutter and Lens Update**
I just now realized how awesome and easy it would be to attach the entire holga shutter and lens assembly to the front. For those of you unfamiliar with the Holga it is basically just a really hackable plastic camera. (http://www.lomography.com/holga/)

I attached an updated version of the bottom case with a mount for the assembly. All you need to do is grab an old Holga, take off the assembly with the two screws and re-screw it onto your newly printed custom camera. Now you have a pretty much fully functional camera with an actual shutter and lens.

I'm not sure about the new bottomcase's print-ablility. If it has problems I attached a flat holga attachment piece that can printed seperately and be screwed onto the front of the camera.

One thing to note... the optics might be a little funky because of the film's distance from the lens. should be interesting...

dino-girl's spider pattern modified for 1/8" material.

I decided to have a go at designing something 3D. This is a case for a simple 9v flashlight that uses a 9v battery, two 5mm LED's, a resistor, and a switch. It uses a snap joint to join the two parts.

I'm not good with blender at all so I did it with Autodesk Inventor. You'll probably have to play with the orientation and stuff so that it will be printable.

--EDIT--
I removed the snap joint because I found it wasn't very printable (at least the way I had it) so the top just fits quite snugly on the bottom.

We at techshopdurham.com/ laser these in batches to place pamphlets in.

no fasteners! well nested! optimistic design!

designed for 1/8" materials- scale it to whatever you want, though.

This is a clip mount for 35 mm DIN rail.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_rail

I had a relay for a radio that was already DIN rail and I needed to mount some plugs and cables.

flickr.com/photos/zignig/sets/72157621190394069/

So I fired up blender and Modeled a DIN clip.

TIP:

Getting the sizing just right on a reprap is a bit tricky , so I printed out thin ones ( ~= 5 layers ) to get the size just so.

I used this for a ham radio that I have mounted in my car.

:)

zignig

The makerbot finally printed me some glasses!

I decided to start out with some nice thick frames inspired primarily by Cory Doctorow and Bre Pettis, though I have plans for a lot more styles and shapes.

As for practicality...
I honestly wasn't expecting these to be comfortable but they actually are. They're really light and after a while I forget I'm even wearing them. I can even wear them over my normal glasses.
PLUS major geek bonus points for wearing GLASSES YOU PRINTED YOURSELF.

This is a set of plastic snap-together blocks that was designed for a prototype universal constructor. You can see a simulation of a robot made from the blocks here youtube.com/watch?v=LumLzSQE5Vw

You can get more info on the strengths and weaknesses of the actual physical plastic blocks here molecularassembler.com/KSRM/3.18.htm

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

So this is a project I've been thinking about trying out with my robotics club here at Tufts. I played with sumobots a while back in highschool but it turned out to be sort of boring because everyone was using the same kit robot and the same code. The Makerbot is a game changer here. The ability to totally customize a sumobot from the ground up with relatively little effort is awesome. I can't wait to see whole Makerbot sumobot tournaments.

Full disclosure.... this is a relatively difficult print and really pushes the limits of the build size. My makerbot was up to the challenge of the 2.5hr print and resulted in only minor warping but it was definitely a little stressful to watch.

I'm working on another (maybe better, maybe worse) version with multiple parts that slot together which would ensure more uniformity across makerbots.

Three rotating concentric rings.

This is the badge the Hack a Day team wore around CES and gave away to a few people. You can see the posts here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/08/ces-update-makerbot-gets-a-badge/
and here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/09/ces-update-ces-badges/

Here is the how-to post on how the badge was created in OpenSCAD:
hackaday.com/2010/01/11/how-to-make-a-printable-ces-badge/

Now everyone can show that they read hackaday.com with this custom-designed badge.
It takes a little over an hour to print and the wrenches are pretty much guaranteed to pull up and/or warp the build surface.

This is a modification of the Y bar clamps, and comes with a shelf sticking out of it to stick optical or mechanical limit sensors on. It clamps onto 8mm or 5/16" rod for those who still work in old money.

The idea is that non-standard endstop mechanisms can be stuck to the shelf, allowing experimentation with microswitches etc.

There is also a part equivalent to the PCB spacer in the standard Mendel that is used to close the clamp after it is attached to the bar (doesn't show well in the STL image).

The key clips in and you can magnetically stick it to a discrete place on your car. I'm using it to hide my key during runs.

Disclaimer: as pointed out in the comments, if a thief finds your key, you will not be able to claim any insurance money, so be careful!

LET'S TRAP THAT MOUSE! I DESIGNED THIS MODEL SO IT CAN BE BUILT ON ANY 3D PRINTER. NO OVERHANGS, JUST PRINT ALL 3 PARTS AND GO! I DO NOT HAVE A 3D PRINTER SO IF YOU ( YES YOU) CAN PRINT THIS ITEM, I WILL SPLIT THE WINNINGS WITH YOU! HOW AMAZING IS THAT, RAPID PROTOTYPING AT IT FINEST! LETS GET THAT MOUSE!!!

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU BUILD THIS. I WANT FEEDBACK TO MAKE THIS TRAP BETTER! TESTED IT IN SOLIDWORKS AND SHOULD WORK GREAT! ANY OTHER QUESTIONS JUST ASK!
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UPDATES:
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3/24/2010 IT WORKS!!!!!! Check out my new youtube video youtube.com/watch?v=7E8CZd66lLI
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3-9-2010: Check out the Tilt-N-Trap in action!

youtube.com/watch?v=PfoC_vY3pdQ

3-4-2010: Thanks to erickphd and his students at Penn. College of Technology we have some modifications to this model. If you have already printed this model, do not attach the Counterweight rail to the Base And tape 2 Quarter to the right side of the Tilt-N-Trap.

ErickPHD Said

"Testing shows a reasonably reliable trigger at 27 grams but the average mouse is 10-25g so my class thought that it needed to be a bit more sensitive"

ADD two quarters and removing the Counter weight rail should give a More sensitive Design. Check out the picture to see the modified design

03-04-2010 : First Model has been printed! Check it out @ picasaweb.google.com/EricAlbertPhD/MousetrapBuild?feat=directlink

03-03-2010 : 3D Has just been added to 3d Content Central. If you go to this website in internet explorer (Will not Work in firefox :-( ) you can see a 3D you can SPIN AROUND AND ZOOM IN & OUT. Check it out

3dcontentcentral.com/parts/download-Part.aspx?id=187226&catalogid=171

03-02-2010 : erickphd is going to make a model on 03-03-2010. More information coming soon. Printing on Dimension uPrint machine

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This RC hovercraft is the result a project at my university
It has a top speed of 60Km/h and a perfect handling.
2 parts where 3D print, 1 was made by thermoforming and one by laser cutter.
It’s a very good project to learn to design for all toes prototyping techniques.

If you want more information, don’t hesitate to contact me…

This is a biplane I made awhile ago... yeah
technically it is not a biplane, as the bottom set of wings act as flaps, actuated by hydraulics...
since the pictures were taken, someone added huge gun barrels to the wings, which I was too lazy to take off, if you wish them to not be there, then you are going to have to do a bit of editing...
I know the propeller is tiny... but once again I am too lazy to fix it...
(note, you need SketchUp to view the file)
took me forever to make, hope you enjoy!

A basic rod style puppet to renact your favorite makerbot adventures.

You have the choice of any head listed below.

I will update with completed picture soon.

There is room for improvement, what ideas do other people have?

[UPDATE 1: Sorry, I just realized, that I accidentally used 80034 ball bearings, not 624 ball bearings for this design. I'm already working on a updated, new, better, nicer and prettier design, using "real 624" ball bearings. I'll publish this new design on thingiverse shortly. For more information on this, see
pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/04/22/the-power-of-reading/.]

[UPDATE 2: The new design is now available: thingiverse.com/thing:2473 ]

Ok, RustySpoon1121 beat me on this one ( thingiverse.com/thing:2318 ), but since my design is different (only 8 rollers, centrally mounted) and already finished anyway, I publish it as an alternative approach.

I use 624 80034 ball bearings to mount the 8 rollers on the center wheel.

For more information on the project (and more detailed build instructions), please see my blog post at
pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/04/18/the-power-of-vacuum/

How many times did you lose that model rocket you spent hours on as a kid? Stuck in a tree or on top of your neighbor's roof that was alway my luck. What if I told you that you can rekindle that childhood spark with your 3D printed model rocket? Don't worry about all of your hard work going to waste , just print yourself another and go!

This is a small, compact switch-kit that you can glue together, print the pieces and glue the handle to the cylinder whilst it's in the holder.

This could be great for making something electrical feel important, you can pull your big (mini) lever to make electrical contacts meet (if you put some on here)

This is a snack dispenser perfect for peanuts or m&m's. A jar full of your favorite snack sits upside down on top of the dispenser body. Hold your hand below the hole and turn the knob to receive your snack.

If you have a pet hamster, you know that they like to run in their exercise wheel - a LOT, at NIGHT and often the wheel SQUEAKS. Here is a design for a (hopefully) squeakless hamster wheel that uses a 608 bearing. I don't (yet) have a 3-d printer, so no photos. I made sure there were not non-manifold points.

A case for the MakerBot watch made out of laser cut 6mm clear acrylic. It can use up to an 18mm standard watch band.

Its a large scale cartesian robot
The primary idea was to build a big 3dprinter which would produce large objects with a 1 m3 max. dimension.

This apparatus provides you the cartesian mechanism for positioning the material of your desire in 3d-space.
It does not include any tool or extruder.

For example you could fix a PU-Foam spitting can, and try printing big pink foam objects like a pink pig or a foamy chair. Or you can try experimenting with milling or putting your favorite extruder on it and see what happens.

It is in some way scalable because by choosing the lenght of the aluminum-beams for the frame and the x-y-carrier you decide how big it is.
I will provide the dimensions for having a bot with a 1m x 1m x 1m work-space.

Some updated thoughts:
- Actually i would not recommend to scale it bigger without using stronger aluminum profiles or even a welded iron frame..
- as proposed in the comments it is probbably smarter to use something like a bike-chain driven drivetrain for the z-stage

The reprap is not the only 3d printer that can replicate itself, now the Makerbot can to.

This Makerbot is made out of aproximatly 150 individual pieces that is printed on , "yes you guessed it) a Makerbot.

My Makerbot worked hard everyday for about a month straight to finish this project, and i am immensly happy about the end resoult.
There are more pictures on the bottom of this page;)

(The pictures doesnt do it justice one bit, but it really is a thing of beauty)

Now i have added a zip file that includes all stl- and max-files.

velosynth is an open-source bicycle interaction synthesizer.

it's a small, hackable computer that augments the cycling experience by interpreting speed, acceleration, and other sensor data into useful audio feedback.

uses a makerbot-printed holster to attach a magnet to a spoke of the wheel: thingiverse.com/thing:1610

more information here: velosynth.com
check out our kickstarter project: kickstarter.com/projects/effalo/velosynth