Having the RAMPS electronics inside the printer frame, connecting a USB connector is pretty hazardous, both for me and for the current print.

I made an extender with a USB B socket and a USB B cord I had laying around to connect my RAMPS. This is the bracket to hold the USB extension cord on the outside of the frame. The dimensions of the USB B socket match the USB specification, but make sure the face of it is 12 x 11.5 mm before printing.

A variant without the plastic tab to clip the socket is also available should you desire to hot-glue the connector.

The soldering to extend the USB port of the RAMPS itself is left as an exercise to the reader.

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

Christmas tree form with holes for 5mm LEDs. Base is sized for 9V battery.

Wire it up ala thing: 14713 and it'll stand up where you put it. Or hang it from the Christmas tree.

It's a small christmas tree with blinking lights to decorate your table with.

For about $1 worth of components, you can have a merry table decoration that you can show off your 3D printing and electronics prowess with this year.

The tree has 16 holes for 5mm LEDs, room for the circuit and battery inside, with a switch in the base

Circuit design is included.

edit: Fixed some overhang issues and made holes a little bit bigger to more easily accommoate 5mm LEDs

This will fit the OpenPandora's EXT- Plug and a little PCB for a DIY TV-Out Cable.
It's made to fit a 11X11mm PCB and the Plug.

Update:
I made a HowTo for the TV cable and uploaded it as a PDF in Germand and English!

Update 2:
Added a Zip file with a Postiv of the Plug so that you can put it in to your own design.

Decorative LED LAMP, Based on the building "TURNING TORSO" by Architect Santiago Calatrava.

The silent_runner is a small high performance model airship with a full do it your self documentation.

All parts are cheap and easy to assemble. Build your airship today and stop wasting battery power to low efficiency planes and quadrocopters, but start over with endless endurance and amazing grace.

The first silent_runner had some nice testflights, demonstrating good agility, speed and even crash robustness:
youtu.be/gkAJlDUEEM8

The whole project is undergoing finetuning and improvements, thus feedback is much appreciated.

Pixoxos a tangible printer of digital things collected form the net.

Tweet "pixoxos" and I'll post your best tweets ;p

This project is a tangible printer for normally non-tactile things like: tweets, meeting appointments, facebook mentions or images etc. Practically anything you can think of that will fit on the a thermal receipt.

Web : scottmayson.com/Pixoxos-Printer
Video: vimeo.com/51895465
Images: tinyurl.com/8k6dnvg
Featured: adafruit.com/blog/2012/10/25/pixoxos-design-for-adafruit-iot-printer-project-3dthursday/

Night Light Diamond.
Soft blue light.
Plug in ~220 V.

This is a mounting bracket for thing thingiverse.com/thing:27550, a 3W, high-power LED lighting board. Use these to mount the LEDs to the bottom of your cupboards and illuminate the countertop below. This mount screws into the bottom of the cup

The heaterboard was not heating up, so we installed a new LED and the board now works properly.

The idea is to connect additional electronics to a power socket device that would turn it into a zigbee power meter. From then on we can communicate with the sockets and:

>> Gather information about the current energy consumption - once we have it we can analyze, compare, learn from it and finally be more energy efficient

>> Control – both the energy consumption and your workflow at home. Describe what you want to achieve in the Agilart Designer and control your home from a simple Dashboard you can access from all your gadgets

>> learn how to SAVE more ENERGY

** Designed together with Kris Kalinov as part of the Power Home team at Startup Weekend Sofia

** Won Startup Weekend Sofia: sofia.startupweekend.org/2012/09/24/powerhome-wins/

"RA"
a DIY 3d Printable Virtual Reality Head mounted display

Fov: 120+ deg
Weight: 1lb 8oz
Cost: $450
Headtracking: yes

video showing the FOV range.
youtu.be/p10V3lca-DY

video of RA in Use.
youtu.be/pujeMSP6dmo

A Lighted Bottle will add illumination and a touch of color to your favorite room.

A small, completely printable quadcopter printed on my Up! Plus 3D printer

I designed this LED-Cube long time ago, but I finally had time to build it. Its controlled by an ATMega32 and based on this: instructables.com/id/LED-Cube-4x4x4/?ALLSTEPS

Decided to start playing with the ATTINY45, but needed a way to burn programs to it. This little target board solved that. Also, using female header pins, it can plug straight on to my Arduino as ISP shield.

I was elated when the Arduino as ISP sketch was released. I spent about a year with a breadboarded version using zif socket and a nest of wires, bypassing the Arduino bootloader and burning my sketches straight to the chip. It didn't take long for this breadboard setup to become a cumbersome chore, so I decided to make a dedicated pcb to handle it.

The first version had some issues that this one address.

Improvements include:
• Place for a resistor to disable auto-reset
• Large enough holes to use a ZIF socket
• Option to use either a ceramic resonator OR a crystal

Credit should go to Evil Mad Scientist's ISP Shield Kit for the idea of using a 100Ω resistor to disable auto-reset.

(NOTE: this is version 0.1. I really don't recommend using it. Instead, use the finalized v1.0 Putting this up more for record keeping purposes than anything else.)

This ISP is based on Using an Arduino as an AVR ISP[http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP].

I was elated when the Arduino as ISP sketch was released. I spent about a year with a breadboarded version using zif socket and a nest of wires, bypassing the Arduino bootloader and burning my sketches straight to the chip. It didn't take long for this breadboard setup to become a cumbersome chore, so I decided to make a dedicated pcb to handle it.

Some mistakes in this first version:

1) Because I'd been using a breadboarded Arduino as my source ISP, I hadn't accounted for auto-reset, so you either have to disable it on the board, or jump the Reset pin to 5V with a 100Ω resistor.

2) While I was using a ZIF socket on the breadboard, I didn't use the right component in the PCB design, so the holes were to narrow to use it.

These issues were all addressed in v0.2 (now v1.0).

Diamond shaped LED desk lamp.
Approx. size 3 1/2" x 2 3/4" x 2 3/4"
Uses any old 5 volt cell phone charger to produce a quality visual effect.
Some electronics required.

This is the simplified DIY version of a magnetic endstop. Instead of using a hall effect sensor and some logic, it uses a hall switch. So the board is much simpler.
PLUS - it has a control LED.

Cheap-O in action: youtube.com/watch?v=smRay_nAUWA

Update: Improved STL for super slim design.

This thing is made with OOML (V2.0)
iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php

I have kept the main structure and I have added a little of light to my prototype. In this way you can enjoy in the darkness solving a labyrinth, for example.

I have used to do this derivative model:

1 x Arduino UNO
1 x Bluetooth Arduino Module
2 x Futaba 3003
2 x Ultrasonic Sensors
(Link: seeedstudio.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ultra_Sonic_range_measurement_module)
1 x Protoboard
2 x 9V power batteries
2 x red LEDs
2 x yellow LEDs
2 x green LEDs
3 x resistors (220 ohms aprox.)

In the next link, it is the first training video:
youtu.be/-5mcAUBTQyI?hd=1

Holder for three 5mm LEDs designed for Wade's extruder and others with 5cm screw spacing.

Better staring at the object you are printing :)

I wanted a delay effect, but one that takes as little space as possible in my Ukulele bag. You'd think some kind of minimal plug-in effects existed, but I didn't find much, so I compromised by buying a cheap delay, the VD-400 from Behringer, and making a smaller housing for it. I had to remove the pedal to make the box smaller, but for my purposes, that's fine. It's still nowhere near as small as I'd like, but the PCB was pretty big to begin with.

I think next I'll look into some kind of more software-oriented solution for effects... Maybe a Beagleboard or something could be used to run basic audio processing. Pedals seem to be made the way they are simply because they need to be pedals, there has to be a way to make an effect processor smaller.

The soldering assistant is a project idea I had to have my soldering supplies conveniently in one spot. The Solder spool holder is close to the work area to have a ready supply of solder to feed directly from the spool. The soldering assistant also features and adjustable vise to hold your projects securely as you assemble them. Just behind the work area is a parts bin, to put your resistors, capacitors, IC's tweezers or other supplies. Side "fins" make it possible to make custom add-ons that can just snap into place. The only part that isn't printable through a 3d printer is the center threaded rod that moves the base, this is a 1/4" threaded rod that can be purchased at any local hardware store. 2 hex nuts are also required, one that fits into the moving side of the platform, and one on the stationary side. An update will soon be done, addition to the design will be a fume extractor and adjustable angle for the vice platform. This is an entry for the "Make it real Challenge" contest on the instructables website. If you like the design, please vote for my design. instructables.com/id/Soldering-Assistant/

This is a GPS module design and printed case to add GPS capability to a Nikon D200. It builds upon a previous design I made using a Garmin eTrex but now with the TOM it's much easier to build a nice looking case that fits well with the D200.

I know there are all sorts of LED solutions out there, but I couldn't find any that suited me. So drew these up and they work awesome. The corner bar lights mount nicely into the front corners and top corner of your bot. The ring light fits nicely around the nozzle, while maintaining a nice safe distance and without obstructing your view of the nozzle and work area.

Each bar contains 7 LEDs and the ring contains 22. If you print 3 bars as I did you get a total of 43 LEDs lighting up your bot with most emphasis on the build platform.

An EL wire neo-nixie tube design. It didn't work out well, but perhaps someone else can improve upon it. Details about the project: nycresistor.com/2011/10/15/el-wire-nixie-tubes/

These are the laser cutting plans for the chassis for my ArduRoller balance bot.

Specs:
Chassis: laser cut 2.7mm bamboo ply (Ponoko); various M2.5 machine screws from Amazon; Instamorph low-melt-point thermoplastic to fill in the gaps.
Brains: 1 x Arduino Uno
Motor driver: 1 x Sparkfun Ardumoto
Motors: Sparkfun 2 x 24:1 gearmotor
Wheels: 1 set Sparkfun 70mm -- repaired with Instamorph after they cracked around the axle
Gyro: 1 x ADXRS613 (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Accelerometer: 1 x ADXL203CE (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Batteries: 2 x 3.7V Li-poly 850MAh (Sparkfun)

I've shared the code and assets at github.com/fasaxc/ArduRoller.

Video is at flickr.com/photos/fasaxc/5944650602/

Here is my new Lab-Mixer for you. After cleaning all my nozzels over months by hand. I designed now a little gadget to make it more easy.
For rotating i used a 220v Engine with 3 W and 4 rounds per minute.

The glasses are from a small foodstore of my town. They are filled with Aceton.

youtube.com/watch?v=PC4Y2o_bmwA