A three piece acrylic binary clock powered by Arduino and the DC1307 real time clock.

This board allows you to control one stepper motor, as well as receive input from two limit switches. It is based around the Allegro A3982 Stepper Motor Driver with Translator. The A3982 is capable of driving up to 2A per coil. This board was designed to improve upon and replace the v1.x series of stepper drivers which are based upon the venerable L297/L298 stepper drivers. The A3982 offers a number of improvements:

* Only one chip to solder, as opposed to the two chip L297/L298 combo
* Superior DMOS technology (no heatsink required!)
* Built-in diodes and synchronous rectification (no large diode array!)
* Much cheaper and smaller than the L297/L298 (about $10 cheaper, total!)

The downside is that the board is mostly SMT, although we made a conscious design decision to stick with some of the largest and easiest to solder SMT components on the market. We used 1206 sized resistors and the A3982 itself is in a SOIC package. The board is very easy to put together, even for a beginner. Using a technique such as solder paste + hot plate, the board becomes ridiculously easy to solder. I found that it is much easier to solder SMT boards in this fashion than to solder pin after pin manually with through-hole components.

This board is a combination of the PWM Driver Board, DC Motor Driver Board, Temperature Sensor Board, RS485 comms, and an Arduino! All on one board. It has screw terminals for easy hookup, as well as a power jack for power and an IDC header for the rotary encoder. Its an all-in-one solution for controlling an extruder.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega168 - program it just like an Arduino because it is an Arduino.
* 3 x MOSFET drivers for controlling up to 14A @ 12V. Perfect for heaters, fans, solenoids, etc.
* 2 x H-Bridges capable of up to 2A each. Control 2 motors, or control one stepper motor.
* A temperature sensor circuit for reading the standard 100K thermistor.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with the motherboard.
* IDC header for connecting a Magnetic Rotary Encoder.
* Polarized ICSP header for simple, easy programming.
* It mounts directly to the Pinch Wheel Extruder!
* It is plug and play with the RepRap Motherboard.

This board is the brains behind the Generation 3 Electronics. The heart is a Sanguino which is an Arduino-compatible board that is powered by an ATMEGA644P chip. It has connectors to hook up all the various peripherals that you'll need to drive a RepRap machine. It has headers for three stepper drivers, as well as 4 RJ45 connectors for Extruder Controller Boards. Not only that, but it has an SD card and a connector to hook it up to an ATX power supply.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega644p - 64K flash space, 4k ram, 32 I/O pins, Arduino compatible.
* 3 x Stepper driver connectors with min/max inputs.
* Built-in SD card socket for printing from file and buffering large print jobs.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with extruder / toolhead controllers.
* ATX power connector for power. It can also turn the power supply on and off.
* Headers to allow existing Sanguinos to plug straight in.
* I2C headers for simple hookup of external peripherals.
* On/Off switch for instant-kill and simple control of the entire system.

This is the plastic extruder that we have developed over at MakerBot Industries. It is a primarily lasercut design which uses a pinch-wheel filament drive system and a nichrome heating element. It is heavily based on work we've done with the RepRap project and is compatible with the RepRap mounting system.

You can buy kits for this at the MakerBot Store: store.makerbot.com/featured-products/plastruder-kit-presale.html

This board is the brains behind the Generation 3 Electronics. The heart is a Sanguino which is an Arduino-compatible board that is powered by an ATMEGA644P chip. It has connectors to hook up all the various peripherals that you'll need to drive a RepRap machine. It has headers for three stepper drivers, as well as 4 RJ45 connectors for Extruder Controller Boards. Not only that, but it has an SD card and a connector to hook it up to an ATX power supply.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega644p - 64K flash space, 4k ram, 32 I/O pins, Arduino compatible.
* 3 x Stepper driver connectors with min/max inputs.
* Built-in SD card socket for printing from file and buffering large print jobs.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with extruder / toolhead controllers.
* ATX power connector for power. It can also turn the power supply on and off.
* Headers to allow existing Sanguinos to plug straight in.
* I2C headers for simple hookup of external peripherals.
* On/Off switch for instant-kill and simple control of the entire system.

This board is a combination of the PWM Driver Board, DC Motor Driver Board, Temperature Sensor Board, RS485 comms, and an Arduino! All on one board. It has screw terminals for easy hookup, as well as a power jack for power and an IDC header for the rotary encoder. Its an all-in-one solution for controlling an extruder.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega168 - program it just like an Arduino because it is an Arduino.
* 3 x MOSFET drivers for controlling up to 14A @ 12V. Perfect for heaters, fans, solenoids, etc.
* 2 x H-Bridges capable of up to 2A each. Control 2 motors, or control one stepper motor.
* A temperature sensor circuit for reading the standard 100K thermistor.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with the motherboard.
* IDC header for connecting a Magnetic Rotary Encoder.
* Polarized ICSP header for simple, easy programming.
* It mounts directly to the Pinch Wheel Extruder!
* It is plug and play with the RepRap Motherboard.

It's a little birdhouse for your soul.

This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

The Plastruder MK4 is the latest extruder design for MakerBot machines. We've fixed a couple of bugs, and improved the design to be more robust. A quick summary of the changes:

* Motor shaft support bearing
* Fully attached dino supports
* Better machined parts (heater barrel, nozzle, etc.)
* Motor is more firmly attached to housing

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.22 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body, with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.21 (See project website for v0.21):
* dimensions of net refined for better fit to battery and pcb, and sleeve.
* transmission seems to be fine on the whole.
* spacing and hole sizes fixed for components on PCB

v0.21 solved many of the issues of v0.1:
* a lot less bulky, more friendly on the pocket
* improved component layout, slimmer, more stable
* no nasty cable ties
* more accessible for those without laser cutting facilities - can be hand cut, or plotter cut.
* cardboard more resilient at joints than acrylic.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.22:
* circuit box part needs to be restrained within sleeve - fiddly when removing battery tray.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.
* separate, powered, mic design required.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

A binary clock in a nice wooden box.

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.24 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body (shirt card), with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.22/0.23:
* Full assembly instructions on instructables.
* Artwork/info added on housing.
* Stereo/mono conflict resolved - can now accommodate stereo and mono plugs.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.24:
* circuit box slides around when switching on/off or plugging in.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

This is a device that you can make to light up the inside of your MakerBot. By using some LEDs, a couple resistors and the MakerBot power supply, you can give your MakerBot that cool glowing interior. It is designed to snap into the slots on the top of the MakerBot, and be wired to the 12V line of the MakerBot power supply using unused HDD connectors. It is easy to print up a pair and give it a try!

16x27 array of 5mm red leds (432 leds), controlled in PWM with arduino and MAX7313 controller on each line, controlled by i2c.


Build-up log: tetalab.org/lionel/
Web simulator: pixels.tetalab.org

this is a digital 7 segment led wall clock with 42mm high digits based on a atmel atmega168.
the display modules come from RFT, a former manufacturer in the GDR(DDR). (second hand)

This is a new and improved heated build platform. It is lightweight, compact, lower cost, and sexier than the old heated platform. It is also easier to put together and simpler in construction.

The major breakthrough on this board is twofold:

1. We use a PCB for both the heater element and the support circuitry.
2. We use a lasercut aluminum heat spreader for uniform temperature.

After a bit of trial and error, we came up with an optimum trace resistance of about 4.5 ohms which gives us a 30 watt heater at 12v. This allows us to get up to 100C pretty easily (under 10 minutes).

This is a PCB design for 6 leds which can be attached to the extruder nozel head via the 2 threaded bolts. This is a derivative of the printable Makerbot light ring.

The circuit is a simple one, however there is an added function.

This is designed to be wired into the extruder motor connectors 1A and 1B, therfore when the motor runs forward, it lights 3 LEDs (White) When it reverses, it illumiates the Blue LED's.

Check out my video for an example here: youtube.com/watch?v=lRiLqAD1rlk

and in actual use (Pinting PrintruderV2) youtube.com/watch?v=VoPX63fTHiw

Alternativly, use this pcb and add the LED's all the right way wound and have this as a circuit just to illuminate! its like potatoe waffles - lovely and versatile!

This is the Files i use to make a stepper driver board from the pololu driver.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This is my entry for the Makerbot giveaway.

It is a first draft of a 1/3 scale model/design inspired by a Zenith K-518 clock radio from 1953 (see included image) that I am currently restoring. The original pictured is about 12-in x 4.5-in x 6-in in size. It was one of the last years Zenith used Bakelite in its radios. The design presented would be used in the construction a working model AM radio (like the original), which would feature a clock on the left side, a ~1-inch speaker mounted behind the grill in the center, and the tuning panel on the right. The lower left nob would be volume control (and possibly a click-on-off switch...although those are a bit tougher to get at this size), and the right nob would be the tuning control.

As far as size of the cabinet goes (about 4-in x 1.4-in x 2-in), the design presented could be shifted up or down in order to accommodate the restrictions of the printer. I have a feeling the speaker grill may be too fine as it is to be printed reliably, although I would need the expertise of someone to confirm that.

makezine.com/go/makerbot

blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/makerbot_giveaway.html

When I converted it over to STL, it does seem to have messed up the scale in the file, so I'll have to look into that.

This is a concept alarm clock that I designed to help people wake up in the morning. You aim at the middle of the target with a laser pointer (1mW to 5mW of power) form a distance to make it stop (or you can wait a minute). There's an LCD (green rectangle) at the bottom for time and date. There's also some side lighting (in the transparent tubes) that turns on with the alarm.

Some buttons at the rear are used to set the time and alarm, including a traditional alarm reset button in case the laser system fails (not shown in pictures or file).

This is an LCD and keypad control panel for controlling a Reprap Motherboard based fabber like the MakerBot CupcakeCNC. With this you will be able to use your fabber without needing to attach it to a computer. You can set heater temperatures, move and zero the axes and print .s3g and .gcode files directly from the SD card. The LCD will show you continuous temperature readings, position, and build progress.

I've been working for a couple of weeks on a RepRap Arduino Mega shield. I've got a mix of early generation 2 electronics, a few home-made single sided generation 3 stepper boards, and old arduino with a screw-terminal shield and a brand-new arduino mega.

I designed myself a version of an arduino mega shield to connect the gen3 stepper boards using the 10-pin IDC cables, and it might be useful for anyone transitioning between generations of electronics. Features:

Single-sided for PCB for easier home-made boards
5 stepper driver headers - x,y,z,a,b - should match existing gen3 electronics.
(future-proof?) UI interface header that *should* match gen4 electronics.
Heater 10-pin IDC (to plug in MOSFET driver board later) - should be able to drive a reprap setup with 1 or 2 extruders/ heated bed without an additional extruder board.
I2c header as per standard boards
Optional extra 3-pin headers for digital inout and analog in : +5v, GND, and data pin. This makes it easy to add temperature sensors, kill switches, extra limit switches, etc (I'm only using the min endstops).


You can treat this as more of a prototyping board, and solder as many headers/pins as you need: I bought a dozen 50-pin headers, so I filled mine up. I'm only expecting to use one or two of the analog inputs as temperature sensors for now.

NOTE that the +5v/Gnd/Signal headers for the digital and analog pins are directly connected to the internal arduino 5V supply. DO NOT run anything major off these headers. I was only planning to add simple data switches (digital input from high/low), simple thermistor circuits (Analog input) and potentially a small servo (9g micro servo) off these I/O pins - so I didn't pay much attention to them. If you are running any further circuits, use a separate power supply! (all RepRap boards have separate 12v PSU headers anyway).

velosynth is an open-source bicycle interaction synthesizer.

it's a small, hackable computer that augments the cycling experience by interpreting speed, acceleration, and other sensor data into useful audio feedback.

uses a makerbot-printed holster to attach a magnet to a spoke of the wheel: thingiverse.com/thing:1610

more information here: velosynth.com
check out our kickstarter project: kickstarter.com/projects/effalo/velosynth

This is a breakout board for an arduino that boosts the 5v signal from the arduino output to a high-power 12v, suitable for running RepRap heaters, fans, heated beds, etc.
The IDC will plug into my Arduino Mega Shield ( thingiverse.com/thing:3308 ) and the power socket is designed to accept standard PC disk drive power plugs.

The signal from the arduino is amplified using a MOSFET - I used FDB8880 ( uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1228327 ) at 60p each, which will handle 54A - which is way more current than I expect to ever need, or can be supplied from a single PC power supply.
There are also 8 separate outputs on the board - populate as many as you need. I'm a big believer in multiple redundancy.

It's a nice simple board and it is a good introduction to SMD soldering - each output is separate, so you can mess up one circuit and still use the other 7. I'm also not the most skilled or tidiest maker, and I managed to make it work :-).

This is a single-sided version of the makerbot stepper driver board v2.3
thingiverse.com/thing:393

I tweaked the board to make it easier to etch and make at home. The vias are not underneath components, simple wire links can replace the tracks on one side of the board, and the track sizes tweaked a bit.
It can still be improved.

I really wanted a fully integrated solution for controlling a heated build platform, as well as for communicating with the motherboard. I also wanted to be able to use the heated build platform as a controlled hot plate in order to do surface mount reflow. I created this board to have the ability to do both. I started this several months ago, but just now was able to gather all of the parts to build it and test it.

The board is meant to control mains voltage (i.e. 120/240 VAC), and therefore uses an optically-isolated triac that is protected by a fuse. Temperature feedback is through a Type-K thermocouple being read by a MAX6675. The whole system is controlled by an ATMega328 based Arduino in a TQFP package. Feedback to the user is through a 16x2 LCD and 3 buttons. The control circuitry is powered though the 5V line on a Molex connector off of an ATX power supply.

Features:
*Controls up to 1000W of AC mains power
* I2C Communications back to the motherboard
*Measurable temperature range of 0 to 1024 degrees C with 2 degree accuracy
*16x2 character LCD screen
*Up, Down, and Select buttons
*Programmed with USB-TTL cable or ISCP programmer
*Arduino-based for easy coding and compatibility with other boards
*AC Power is optically isolated and fused
*Breakout of extra I/O pin

So far, I’ve been able to test the temperature sensor, the LCD, the buttons, and programming, but I have not been able to test the AC power yet. I should be testing that soon, but right now, use at your own risk.

The ZIP file contains the EAGLE files, Gerber production files, pictures of the board, and a Microsoft Excel file containing all of the parts, suppliers, costs, and board designators.

I am considering selling this board as a kit if I get enough interest, so please tell me what you think!

UPDATE: I have been using this design for several months now, and it seems to work fine. In the mean time, this design has won me the PLTW Innova Award for Imagination! pltw.org/innovaawards

Yet another implementation of H.B.P. controller.
ex) thingiverse.com/thing:3538

If you want to work continuously to keep warm platform. This board holds platform temperature without extruder.

The board operates at 12V, H.B.P. Ver2 (and compatible one) to keep the 110 degree.Temperature can be set 40-130 degree.

prototype (in my blog):
fumi2kick.com/komekame/archives/805
fumi2kick.com/komekame/archives/824

A Simple boat that is powered by a 96x50x6 mousetrap.