A pair of right angle brackets. The holes are designed to take M5 bolts and the spacing from the edge is just right to trap an M5 nut.

A regular polyhedron with twelve pentagonal faces. This one is about about 25mm high and is hollow. See hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/dodecahedron.html.

An alternative design for the RepRap Darwin Z endstop. It allows the machine to home the z-axis away from the workpiece, so that homing is always a safe operation, regardless of what state the machine is in. More details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/08/alternative-z-endstop.html

A simple plastic tool for scraping swarf out of t-slots in a milling machine bed or a lathe cross slide. It is for slots that are 16mm wide and 6mm high.

I don't know if this is international but in the UK modern homes have gas and electricity meters on the outside of the house that need a triangular key to be accessed. Easy to lose, so here is one you can make in about 25 minutes.

A hook with a bearing to suspend a basket of plastic to feed a RepRap machine. Full details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/sky-hook.html

A small screw top pot originally designed to hold the lens adapter of a Fuji FinePix E900 camera. More details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/09/screw-top-pot.html

This is a spinoff from my boxotron software. It creates a dxf for a paper box.

I was just going to alter the boxotron script but ended up rewriting the majority of it.

The box design was shamelessly stolen from 4Volt ( thingiverse.com/thing:254 ) Thanks 4Volt !

It is only good for thin card ( for now ) as the insets and offsets for thicker material are not calculated.

Much like the boxotron this is a command line program , run ./cardbox.py -h for more information

Univers Revolved is an art project from Ji Lee, pleaseenjoy.com . It takes the roman alphabet and remakes it into a set of 3D, solid objects with axial symmetry.

Words can then become objects, letters stacked, attached, etc... Check out the possibilities at the universrevolved.com website.

When I saw this online a week ago, I knew I had to get it onto Thingiverse, so I reached out to Ji Lee, who was kind enough to grant permission, and express some interest in what we do here. We're hoping to print out a few of these and go see him with a MakerBot soon.

With permission from the artist... Thanks, Ji Lee!

This is my first attempt at a 3D Model. I decided I wanted to make a "Geek Campfire" kit for the MakerBot. This is my first step. I made this flame dealie which has 5 holes in the bottom for LEDs. My plan is to make a bunch of these, with some red, yellow, white and orange LEDs and a chip which makes all the LEDs simulate flame colors/flickering.

I haven't tried this on the CNC yet and I'm not sure if the ABS will even let enough light through to make it work. But, hopefully, some of you have some suggestions for me (be gentle, its my first time :) ).

Here is a box that I made with my reprstrap. It has an inside size of 50 mm by 50 mm by 25 mm (approx).

This is a slight mod for Wizard23's makerbot: The thing is getting a giraffe pattern paintjob, so we need giraffe-like ears to go with the whole thing. The .blend file includes the left and right pulley (the ears need to be mirrored, after all)

tester for makerbot Hive76 workshop
Here's a video of the process: viddler.com/explore/eagleapex/videos/4/

This is a design of the RepRap extruder drive that is compatible with the Darwin quickfit clamp system and the Ponoko lasercut kit. It will take either 16mm PTFE or heatsink based heaters. It is designed to be made with no lathing or machine tooling. An opto sensor may or may not be fitted to regulate rotation speed - I found that this was definitely required with an all-metal heater assembly. If you develop software to do that, we'd love to see it!

A better Y-Axis endstop cable for the Makerbot.

I do need to upload the installed picture. I havent gotten around to taking the pic as I still have to connect it up properly.

This gets away from the thick ethernet-type cables and gives a more secure connection.

EDIT: Installed pics added. Will need a couple of blobs of hot glue will keep it in place.

Python script to generate a printable rotary encoder pattern. This script can produce a pattern of a given diameter split into a given number of segments.

This variation on the Y axis bearing housing allows a 22mm 608Z "sk8er" bearing to be used on the Y axis drive shaft. This means the standard 8mm steel drive rod can be used but without the need to file a flat along its entire length. Alternatively, a threaded rod can be used, but attachment of gears using M8 nuts & washers is left as an exercise to the diligent researcher (I'm looking at you Graeme :).

[THIS IS AN IMPOSSIBLE PRINT]

A makerbot mini! complete with X and Y stages and the extruder!

:D

I have also uploaded the original google sketchup design for the top.

sadly i am still having issues with my makerbot, and printing long prints is difficult - need to adjust settings! but i managed to print the top and half the bottom before feeding stopped.

This is a drag chain for the MakerBot extruder cable (or any other cable/wires).

It keeps your extruder cable out of the Z-stage belt and let your MakerBot look professional (kind of...)

The objects need very detailed printing in order to work. You definitely want a good tuned MakerBot and Skeinforge settings to print this (don't say I didn't warn you!).

The ZIP file contains GCode files for all objects, including 6 or 8 chain links on one raft. It might be the best to skeinforge the gcode with your own, tuned settings. The included GCode files worked for me (resp. my MakerBot), but (again): these are some really hairy objects to print.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

This image of various sized whistles:
thingiverse.com/derivative:680

got me thinking. Scaling is RIDICULOUSLY easy with Blender -- and then printing out the new part is just as easy as the previously sized part. So why not make a part that benefited from this scalability?

So, I was thinking, there are all kinds of bottles out there. And adding a whistle to the top will basically form a resonance chamber of that bottle's note. Can anybody say Jug Band?

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Sliding elements slide on perforated angle thingiverse.com/thing:1066, driven by either leadscrew or belt. There are three sizes of the sliding element: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+sliding-element

Print out this handle, slide in two popsicle sticks and tweeze away. Perfect for tweezing the test extrusion plastic off your makerbot.

Features two sides for different springiness settings. The "0" side has parallel slots, the "2" side has a 2 degree angle outward for wider opening tweezers.

On the uploaded gcode file it'll take 33 minutes to print.

Fun laser cut project to show off your laser.
I use it for business cards and show and tell.

microrax.com

I wanted to create a printable part that could take the place of the plywood that makes up the CupCakeCNC. I chose to make a repeating pattern of interlocking puzzle pieces. However, a single layer of these puzzle pieces would not be strong enough for anything but a toy. I added a set of holes that would allow offset layers of puzzle pieces to be bolted together, forming a stronger whole.

I expect to be starting into making corner and edge pieces. I think it would be possible to laser cut these.

The current version is 40mm x 40mm x 4mm corner-to-corner-to-corner. Tongue-to-tongue it is 60mm. The holes are 4mm in diameter and spaced 20mm apart.

Earlier attempts at 60mm x 60mm x 5mm pieces all had to be aborted due to head crashes with ABS shrinkage curling up the corners and breaking the raft from the build surface or, in one case curling up the entire acrylic build surface. This might have been due to the use of an Infill Solidity (ratio) of 1.0

This was created in Art of Illusion. Here is a breakdown of the objects in the .aoi
file:

Camera 1 and Light 1 were just left in there

Puzzle_Curve_No_Clearance is the basic outline of the puzzle piece and does not have any adjustments for the clearance that will be needed for the tongue parts to fit in the mouth parts. It is an approximating curve. The corners are created with three overlapping points.

Curve 1 and its children, Curve 1, Curve 1, and Curve 1 are curves to give an indication of where the holes would be located when I was working with Puzzle_Curve_No_Clearance.

The first Puzzle_Curve_With_Clearance is a modification of Puzzle_Curve_No_Clearance where the tongues are decreased in size. You can see the changes by making visible only Puzzle_Curve_No_Clearance and the first Puzzle_Curve_With_Clearance. The points were offset by 0.25units.

The second Puzzle_Curve_With_Clearance is a triangle mesh of the first Puzzle_Curve_With_Clearance.

The Puzzle_Piece_With_Holes is the final object that was used for .stl output. It is made of Puzzle_Piece, a 4-unit extrusion of the Puzzle_Curve_With_Clearance triangle mesh. and a CSG union of four 8-unit long cylinders that are subtracted (CSG difference) from Puzzle_Piece to form the drill holes in the final object.

The .gcode file uses a hexagonal fill and takes about 16 minutes to print on a CupCakeCNC. The file was created with an Infill Solidity (ratio) of 0.32.

The hex_fill.zip file contains the contents of the .skeinforge directory used in Skeinforge to make the hexagonal fill parts seen in the images and used in the .gcode file.

Here is a squeeze buckle like you normally have on a backpack or hiking gear. I removed all of the supports for a strap on the fork part, since it just wasn't printing properly.

Also the fork fits into the sleeve in only one direction, due to the edits I had to make to make it printable.

Enjoy!

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.22 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body, with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.21 (See project website for v0.21):
* dimensions of net refined for better fit to battery and pcb, and sleeve.
* transmission seems to be fine on the whole.
* spacing and hole sizes fixed for components on PCB

v0.21 solved many of the issues of v0.1:
* a lot less bulky, more friendly on the pocket
* improved component layout, slimmer, more stable
* no nasty cable ties
* more accessible for those without laser cutting facilities - can be hand cut, or plotter cut.
* cardboard more resilient at joints than acrylic.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.22:
* circuit box part needs to be restrained within sleeve - fiddly when removing battery tray.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.
* separate, powered, mic design required.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

A strip of material for use in a tensile testing machine. The dimensions of the test strip(i don't have the exact ASTM D reference number in front of me) are standardised so the tensile properties can be compared with other materials. The machine grips either end of the strip and pulls the grippers apart at constant speed, whilst measuring the force required, this is usually done until the strip is destroyed (unless you want to look at elastic properties etc).

We are currently printing these in HDPE, and comparing the results with stamped out HDPE sheet. We have plans to move onto other materials also. The aim is to print with various patterns of infill, in order to see how the properties change, and eventually use this data to come up with build rules. The build rules will tell you how much material to print in an area, in order to withstand the forces you expect to apply (and help to design stronger parts with less plastic). There is obviously alot of knowledge about this for injection moulding etc, but very little on fused deposition modelling/fused filament modelling.

Not the most fun part to print, but if you have some spare printer time and want to help us out we would appreciate it if you sent us some copies of it, from any material. There is an address on my profile, feel free to contact me for any info. Thanks!