Its a design for a small office catapult. Now you can bombard your boss with small stuff. Best results with 3M notes.

Feel free to adapt it as stated in the licence.

A small desk clamp.

Works but it requires a little more super glue than I would have liked.

It was designed to be a PCB holder (the one Lady Ada uses in her instructions was the inspiration).

ladyada.net/images/usbtinyisp/tools.jpg

The base is too small making it unstable.

However I just finished printing it and it works!

To make it you will also need.

3/8 (5mm will do as well) threaded rod and some square nuts.
Square brass tubing ( 3.9 mm ) and the size that fits just inside that.

Needs some more work:

Bigger base , maybe multipart
Better way to hold the clamps

The tar file contains the blend , photos and all the stl files.

This is a design of the RepRap extruder drive that is compatible with the Darwin quickfit clamp system and the Ponoko lasercut kit. It will take either 16mm PTFE or heatsink based heaters. It is designed to be made with no lathing or machine tooling. An opto sensor may or may not be fitted to regulate rotation speed - I found that this was definitely required with an all-metal heater assembly. If you develop software to do that, we'd love to see it!

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

This is the final episode of a three-part mini-series on making things with low-melting-temperature-alloy. The collection of things here form a hot material transfer system that can be used to extrude (sort of) molten metal or wax. This is inspired by earlier work done by Dr. Sells and Prof. Bowyer reprap.org/bin/view/Main/AutomaticDepositionOfMoltenAlloyInt oACastingChannelToCreateAVerySimple Electro-mechanicalComponent .

As usual, remember that low-melt alloys are toxic and hot enough to cause burns and fires, so only use this material if you are experienced in a lab environment. On the plus side, this system can also be used to make things out of wax, which is much safer to use, although you still have to watch out for burns and fires! Possible uses for a wax-handling system include: 1) automated wax casting; 2) use of wax as a support material.

If you omit the heaters, you can probably use the nozzle and syringe pump to deposit slurries or liquids.

The idea of operation is that a standard RepRap prints a layer of plastic (HDPE, ABS, etc). Then the toolheads are switched, and the metal/wax toolhead deposits molten material in the channels or cavities formed by the plastic. If necessary, the process can be repeated for constructing thicker and more complex parts.

We have had good success using the nozzle as a hand-held tool for transferring metal. For example, we used it to make this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:802 .

We have had somewhat less success using it when mounted to a RepRap, as seen in the pictures. The main problem is poor control of flow-rate (see photo of pattern on hot plate). With some modification (such as a smaller nozzle hole diameter) and tuning of parameters (feed rate, height of nozzle above plate, etc) it might work much better. We RepRapped a simple test piece, manually filled it with metal while it was still on the hotplate, then let it cool (see photo of widget with 25-cent piece). This yielded fairly good results, indicating that an automated system may be able to produce usable parts.

The main components of the system are

1) Heated cup - this is a heated reservoir that contains the molten work material.

2) Heated copper nozzle - the nozzle slurps up material from the cup, then moves to a desired location and deposits the material.

3) Syringe pump - a motor-driven syringe controls air flow in and out of the nozzle, which in turn causes the nozzle to slurp or deposit material.

4) Heated plate - this keeps the work hot to improve the flow of the heated material. It also melts the base of the deposited part, creating a good seal between part and plate, so that molten material does not leak under the part. In general, the heated plate seems to help avoid warping, but the downside is that the bottom of the part starts to ooze outwards after a while.

This is a derivative of the filament spindle made by Erik on Thingiverse.

This is designed to operate along side the Makerbot rather then the RepRap. Because the Makerbot Cupcake CNC does not have the same structure that the RepRap does, the original design does not work. By attaching the stand we now have a standard spindle which works with any system.

Problems that still need to be addressed:
- Spindle spins so freely that the filament itself would probably unwind itself slowly. In the future i would like to add a screw that can be tightened which adds friction to the sides. Keeping the spindle from spinning 'too' freely.
- The Spindle is slightly underweight and with enough lateral force could topple. To address this issue simply attach something heavy to the base. Or add an additional acrylic piece perpendicular to the current stand to increase the base size.

Here is a simple 3D puzzle. My grandpa made me one out of wood a while back, now I cnc'ed one out of plastic. You don't really need a CNC machine to do this; you can use a bandsaw, scroll saw, small coping saw, drill etc. The design of the pieces are simple.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

INTRO
It seems to be the month of construction sets on Thingiverse, so here is another entry in the category.

Contraptor is a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots. It is basically 1" aluminum Erector set with linear motion extensions. While it's in development and sometimes things don't work as they should, functional robots have been assembled from it: contraptor.org/contraptions

The set is designed to be made with the simple tools of a basic workshop. A lot of materials for Contraptor like aluminum angle, threaded rods and fasteners can be found in a hardware store. In the spirit of modularity, it uses Makerbot/Reprap electronics and Arduino/Sanguino controller.

In addition to DIY plans, we're working on Shopbot-able kits that can be manufactured in small quantities by anyone willing, from open source drawings.

Contraptor components and assemblies are modeled in Sketchup and are hosted on Google 3D Warehouse, mostly for ease of accessing from within Sketchup. Thingiverse is the best place to host DXF/SVG sources and part lists for components, so there will be more Contraptor things coming (hopefully including printed ones from the community :).

Apologies for the long read, on to the thing:
/INTRO

Perforated angle comes in lengths from 1" to 24" and can be used as a structural component, as well as a linear motion rail for sliding elements. Attached DXF file and part list are for 1-ft long perforated angle.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+angle

This image of various sized whistles:
thingiverse.com/derivative:680

got me thinking. Scaling is RIDICULOUSLY easy with Blender -- and then printing out the new part is just as easy as the previously sized part. So why not make a part that benefited from this scalability?

So, I was thinking, there are all kinds of bottles out there. And adding a whistle to the top will basically form a resonance chamber of that bottle's note. Can anybody say Jug Band?

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Sliding elements slide on perforated angle thingiverse.com/thing:1066, driven by either leadscrew or belt. There are three sizes of the sliding element: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+sliding-element

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear rail comes in several lengths: 6", 12", 18", 24" etc. Attached DXF file and part list are for 12" long linear rail.

The rail can be attached to perforated angle, channel or T-slot profile, such as 80/20 Fractional 10 series. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings thingiverse.com/thing:1075 are needed to make a complete linear stage.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-rail

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear bearings ride on linear rail thingiverse.com/thing:1071, driven by belts or leadscrews. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings are needed to make a complete linear stage. There are three sizes of the linear bearing: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-bearing

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

A pair of shaft mounts with bearings support a threaded rod used as a pulley shaft or a lead screw.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+shaft-mount

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Motor mount is used to attach NEMA23 stepper motor to Contraptor assemblies.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+motor-mount

Its a tape dispenser with a radius cut to sit the tape spool and a slot cut to place a razor blade. (be careful!)

Want to run a wiimote whiteboard as seen in Johnny Lee's videos? Print this handy adapter to mount your wiimote snugly to a tripod without damage, modification or sticky tapes!

This comes in two versions.
The nut-less version requires no extra parts and 3 easy minutes to cut threads in the plastic. The other requires only one 1/4x20 nut found at any hardware store. Press it in and you're done.

More info on wiimote whiteboard stuff here:
johnnylee.net/projects/wii/
uweschmidt.org/wiimote-whiteboard

For a laser cut stand requiring no tripod see the excellent thing here: thingiverse.com/thing:788

This is a set of solid pentominoes, each of which is based on one of the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac. They are based on originals by Japanese schoolteacher Sabu Oguro as published on p. 40 of Jerry Slocum and Jack Botermans' 1986 book Puzzles Old & New: How to Make and Solve Them. All parts printed via MakerBot, and photographs, by Becky Stern. Becky will be streaming live video of her MakerBot printing some of these pieces at 10 AM PST on Friday, December 18, on her Ustream channel at:

ustream.tv/channel/sternlab

This is Thing-a-Week #1, other things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This thing holds your solder. It has a few special features, including a front mounted solder winder to store dispensed solder and an integrated wall mounting system. Springs can be added to apply friction and prevent excess solder from being dispensed. Compatible with Kester leaded and unleaded 1 lb spools and possibly with others.

If there is interest I'll make an optimized version for sale. This version uses way too much plastic and I don't have time right now to optimize the design.

shapeways.com/shops/iheartengineering

The Nintendo's gift to the world. A block with leds that you can't live with and can't live without (Metroid 3.. ARGH)
I have a part of ghero drumset in front of sensorbar and it sometimes blocked the line of sight to the sensorbar and it F'd up my gameplay.
There were few times I really wanted to send the 50€ controller combo to the earth orbit through the tv set because of that.
This contraption solved that.
This raises the sensor bar 35-100mm over the possible obsticles (and closer to the tv screen)

(it stays up because of the friction from the clips clamping down to the wiibar)

Reveal the hidden IR spectrum world with a RGB filter. Sky turns red, black clothes and hair look blue, flowers glow in the light blue bushes and a whole lot other neat stuff :)


The way this works is that the negatives create pictures by blocking the red, green, blue colors and when you stack a whole bunch of fully exposed films together, only other wavelengths go thru. And when camera's sensor can detect (and show) IR light, you'll get pictures exposed with only infrared light.

(I first saw this in a HackaDays article years ago but in that they also removed IRfilter from the sensor. I haven't done that so exposure times are measured in seconds -> CHDK comes handy)

This fits into the slot in the base of a Dremel Workstation (220-01).
This might help stabilize a work piece.

I upload this in the hopes it will give others ideas for similar accessories.

Possible future improvements in future parts (room for others' innovation): a taper to make intital fit easier; a way to tighten it for extra stability; a part that grips while swiveling.

The file format is brl-cad.

A printed spur gear driven extruder for Mendel or Darwin.

Dremel Flex-Shaft + MakerBot + MakerBeam + OpenSCAD = (Micro CNC Mill | Drill Press)

Expect future refinements, but this is the first version that works on my Batch 1 MakerBot.

I've noticed that there are alot of Google Android related stuff on Thingiverse (G1 docks and such) so I have 3D modeled the lovable Google Android so that all of you Google fans may print and display your commitment to the open source smartphone movement! (Or print it just for kicks... I'm actually a Iphone user *Sigh*.) Anywho, here it is!

PS: If you haven't figured it out, the Google Android Guy is a logo created and shared by Google. My 3D model is a 3D reproduction of the logo and is shared with the world according to the terms described in the Creative Commons 3.0 Attribution License as defined by Google. creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

Printable mouse trap for the Cathals Mouse Trap challenge.

This mouse trap combines the both desires of the mouse; the love for exercise wheels and peanut butter (and ours for catching those buggers).

Idea is simple. Trap spreads the aroma of the bait from the openings at the sides of the wheel.
The mouse then goes in to the wheel from the hole and in inside tries to reach the bait from the opposite side of the wheel.
Then the weight of the mouse turns the eccentric wheel and rotates it over 90 degrees, locking it in place and blocking the exit.
Weight of the mouse acts as a locking mechanism.

Not yet tested but in my mind it works.
dailymotion.com/video/xcfwgj_exercise-wheel-mousetrap_animals

UPDATE: In previous zip file, one file got corrupted at some point and did not work. This has been fixed now in the MouseTrap.zip -file. In the MouseTrapBPlat.zip are resized stl files that are for people who have build platfrom bolts still installed.
I don't know how these flaws got past me unnoticed and I apologize for the lack of quality control.
Big thanks to Cathal for bringing these to my attention.

UPDATE #2: Lesson learned. Never know what to anticipate when you're not printing these yourself. Nothing big but the orientation for the other foot was wrong, too big to print that way. Fixed now in the mousetrap.zip

UPDATE #3: Finally uploaded a video of this in action. Sorry for the wait :)
dailymotion.com/video/xfdi0y_better-mousetrap-challenge-test-vid_tech

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

This was a project that I have been working on for a few months on an off. The wheels are a little larger than 2 inches ind diameter. The are designed to be used on the Tamiya 3mm shaft gearboxes.

These where the ones that where featured on the Make: website.
blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/3d-printable_mecanum_wheel.html

There are two versions of the .STL The one that ended in inches is the one I used for the 3d-print. The other one should be in millimeters. For some reason the file size is different.

The .STl files are large. Download the zip file not the .STL