This is an earlier, printable version of the new MakerBot MK7 filament drive block. During the development of the MK7, I was hoping we could make the filament drive portion of the design printable. It worked really well for testing and prototyping, but it was not feasible for us to scale it for production. Instead, we converted it to injection molding and that is how you have the MK7 we offer today.

This filament drive block is a nice, single piece and prints really well on an MK6. It will print even better on an MK7. It has dual filament inlet channels, and you can probably mod it to do all sorts of cool things. I've provided the original solidworks and an STL output for your ease of use.

A couple things I'm proud of:

* The 'mouse ears' on the corners help it stick better and remain flat, yet are easy to peel off.

* The tiny hole slots which cause the holes to be printed as part of the outer shell. The slot is too small to show up in the final part, and you get a really nice looking bolt hole.

Made this over at 3DTin.... its terrible but I tried. 3dt.in/2he

This is a simple mount for a radial ball bearing. It was made in openscad and is completely parametric. You can adjust it to handle different sized bearings, different heights, wall thicknesses, etc.

The stl file here is for a 608 bearing with no lip to hold it in place.

This is a generic mount for a NEMA17 motor. It's pretty straightforward and prints nicely. I added a bit flair with the spherical mount holes, but other than that its pretty basic.

This is a generic mount for a HS-311 servo (the same one used on the MakerBot Unicorn). I'm creating a series of modular mounts for doing simple motor control. This is the latest entry.

This is a shaft coupler / adaptor. It uses a split-coupling design that allows it to clamp onto the shaft. Even though there are horizontal overhangs, they don't interfere with the operation of the coupling. If they bug you, they are easy to cut out.

The openscad design has the following parameters:

shaft 1 diameter (smaller of the 2 shafts)
shaft 2 diameter (larger of the 2 shafts)
bolt size (M3 = 3)

there are more derived parameters within the module such as wall thickness, gap, diameter, etc which aren't very useful to call from outside the module.

Test cylinder linked from the Thingomatic docs. Anyone have any better models?

This is a pretty simple toilet paper holder for your bathroom. It is made in openscad, so you should be able to easily adapt it for metric, european or lunar toilet paper sizes.

Note: You'll need a heated build platform to print this, as the base is pretty large.

Just a bunch of regular polyhedrons hanging out doing normal things. Print out the whole series and it looks nice.

We have an old projection screen at our apt that we're using with our projector. It has no mounts for anything, but it does have a strong metal case. These mounts are attached to the wall and the screen slips into them.

We just moved into a new location for our NYC resistor hackerspace and the door doesn't have a knob for opening. It's been bugging me for a day, so I decided to design and print a doorknob to fix the problem. It even has our resistor logo on it.

One of the things that I'm constantly wishing I had more of are coat hooks! I have way too many hoodies and I hate leaving them on the floor. So here's my take on a coat hook. The special feature of this one is that it has 2 hooks for optimum hanging excellence.

The design was a mashup of qcad and openscad. i just couldn't get the curves quite right in openscad and I wanted something with both an angular and curved look.

"If we don't all hang together, then surely, we shall all hang separately."

-Benjamin Franklin

(get it, there are two hooks for hanging...) :X

This is a fun little piece I did to explore some of the openscad functionality like for loops. Kelly wanted a printed LED diffuser at the NYCR hackathon and she gave me plenty of room to improvise. This is the result and I'm very happy with it.

This is a knob that will attach to the main driveshaft to allow hand-turning for easier debugging. It is designed for a Model 15 Teletype machine. It was designed for Adam and Bill at the NYC Resistor hackathon!

Features:
* M3 set screw
* Parametric design (diameter, height, bore)
* Easy grip

New and Improved bottle opener. This opener is much more ergonomic, as well as supporting both US quarters and pennies.

penny-opener.stl - this is the STL for a penny based bottle opener. small, compact, cheap.
quarter-opener.stl - this is the STL for a quarter based bottle opener. bigger, beefier, a bit more expensive.

A tool for opening bottles of beer (or soda!). Simply insert a coin and start opening bottles.

This is a simple ashtray. It will hold your ashes and not spill them. Smoking is bad, btw. 1 hour, 15 minute print.

A cool design by France Cadet at the Makerbot workshop in Aix-en-Provence, France at the Escole des Artes.

I'm modeling the frostruder design in openscad and created a model of the syringe along the way. Its probably printable, but whether or not its usable is TBD. The plunger is also a bit too tall for a makerbot, easily fixable in openscad though.

Tip: You'll need the dxf file for the scad document to compile.

Catarina and I made this funnel design in openscad.org. This particular funnel is 50mm wide with a 2mm hole. We made it because we needed to pour some liquids. :)

Note: the inside overhangs actually killed the print. we need to adjust the height of the funnel for a better angle. Cool effect though!

Update: we used the funnel to pour acetone knowing that it would dissolve the threads on the inside. it completely sealed all the cracks and now its a great little funnel.

A nice little wine glass for drinking your port wine in. The first version has a bit of problems with overhangs, and the second version fixes this, as well as adds a few flourishes of its own.

This model was made with OpenSCAD, which is an awesome CSG based modeler. More info here: openscad.org

I'm a big fan of the original whistle design, and the ability to print the interior ball and handler is nice. However, I'm an even bigger fan of minimalism. So, I took out the extra parts and here we have the most basic part: just a whistle.

Note: its not 100% manifold, but skeinforge handles it just fine.

Just a simple geometric art thingie that I made with wings3d.

Well, I'm not sure what to say about this. Its the head of Walt Disney. You can print it. You can play with it. You can even put it on a robot and have said robot storm through a major metropolitan area and cause havoc. Just don't make it Brooklyn, thx. ;)

Oh yeah, I got the original model from here (cleanup was required for printing): davidoreilly.com/2009/01/walt-disneys-head-on-a-plate

This is a derivative of the Plastruder MK3 design I've been working on. The goal is to make the plastruder into a printable design that can be made on a MakerBot. I also wanted to take on an ambitious project to put the new AOI plugin, MetaCAD through its paces. Learn about metacad at metacad.org

This extruder design uses 5 printed pieces: two halves that bolt together for the housing, 2 dinos to put it at the right height for printing, and a simple insulator retainer to keep the PTFE in the right spot. The rest of the design is mostly the motor, heater barrel assembly, electronics, and a 625 bearing to provide the pinching force. It has yet to be tested, but ideally it will be simpler to put together, as well as a sturdier design with no squeaks! I've printed all the parts on my travel bot, and as soon as I get home, I'll be assembling them and testing them out.

A few design notes:

* no more layered construction! that was a hack to make it laser-cuttable. new design is two halves bolted together. one half holds the motor + filament, the other half holds the idler wheel.
* idler wheel switched from acrylic + 608 bearing to a single 625 bearing. smaller, more compact, and nothing but a nearly indestructible bearing to break. should be quite a bit more consistant
* 4 adjustable screws with captive nuts for setting the pinch wheel tension. you'll be able to adjust it on the fly, without any sort of dis-assembly. hopefully the abs will act as a sort of spring as well

a few things i'd like to change yet:
* rotate the captive nut slot on the right-housing to be in-line with print direction for a better finish.
* switch the captive nut / bolt head holes between right and left housings to improve print quality for both (adjust on right side instead of left side)

This is a slightly modified design. First, I fixed the model to be solid with no dupe verts, fully manifold, etc. I also removed the last set of vertices so that the ends curve together. better grip that way. Finally, I scaled down the top vertices so that its mostly flat the whole way down.

Got an Empire State Building model off Google 3D warehouse and hacked the crap out of it to make it printable. Then I scaled it up to 120mm tall and printed it out. Can you say "New Record Height"?

:)

wiki.makerbot.com/hall-of-fame-tallest-print

Today was Fashion Hacking day with Diana Eng at NYC Resistor and I've wanted to make these keyboard pants for a long time. The basic idea was to take a flexible silicone keyboard and somehow integrate it with some pants (or shorts). I had they keyboards laying around for a while and I ran down to the Conways to get some jeans for about $8 (Yay fulton mall!)

This was inspired by a cool project I saw a long time ago on the hypernets: engadget.com/2008/04/23/keyboard-infused-pants-make-it-okay-to-grab-your-crotch/