I wanted to use 24v 40mm fans on my MakerGear M2. This bracket holds a thicker fan to the thinner fan.

Quick OpenSCAD model of some wooden stairs to reach the loft in our barn.

We have a commercial dog waterer, but it holds a large amount "static" of water in two large lower sections. That get stale and dirty--especially when the cat plays in it all the time.

This design minimizes the amount of water that is not in the bottle.

The "learning process" of being an fairly early adopter of hobbyist 3d printing.

All in good fun.

This thing consists of some hand (spreadsheet) generated g-code to test acceleration settings of Jetty's firmware:
thingiverse.com/thing:15380
or
thingiverse.com/thing:17855

The g-code does a back-and-forth motion over a range of distances (+-45 for X&Y, +-25 for Z), which will excite the bot at different frequencies, if one of those happens to cause a step to be skipped, theses scripts should find it.

Here is a video of operation on MiseryBot:
youtube.com/watch?v=ClZF8-G5ub4

In the video the acceleration parameters are set to:
X max speed = 200, accel = 2000
Y max speed = 200, accel = 8000 (lighter stage)
Z max speed = 25, accel = 1000

I wanted to run Jetty's accelerated firmware ( thingiverse.com/thing:15380 ) but at the time it required the LCD* ( makerbot.com/docs/makerbot-gen4-interface-kit/ ). So I went to buy one from MakerBot, but it is discontinued.

Well . . . why not hack** one up?

All the parts are less than $60.

Fair warning, I have an interest in Crystalfontz which is why I got the LCD there :) The rest of the parts have Digi-Key links in the BOM.

The case is printable on a CupCake or TOM, but the slicing I did is horrible. Hopefully someone will care enough to fix the slicing. What I have works, it just looks like a certain Mary Shelley lead character.

You will need:
) the parts on the BOM
) wire ( you can strip a USB cable like I did)
) soldering iron & solder
) heat shrink

* No LCD version now available: thingiverse.com/thing:17855 )

** I do mean HACK, this is the sloppiest SCAD + slice + print + glue + wiring ever! Blech!

Operation Video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=zdTjQ6AbVxQ

One layer of printing (high-res, macro) here:
youtube.com/watch?v=P98S2NxbNbM

3d printed spinner knob for rotary encoder jog/shuttle control

Made on MakerBot CupCake #1024 (MiseryBot)

Use with Digi-Key 987-1195-ND:
search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?keywords=987-1195-ND
( TT Electronics/BI EN12-HS22AF20 )

Just a 1.6x scale of Cube Puzzle by drayde thingiverse.com/thing:3784

It is nested to fit on a single build.

I had one of these as a kid:
mall-hall-of-fame.blogspot.com/2010/02/parker-brothers-soma-cube-puzzle-came.html

Someone scanned the manual:
fam-bundgaard.dk/SOMA/NPARKER/NPARKER.HTM

ref: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soma_cube

(This thing got featured in the thingiverse blog: blog.thingiverse.com/2011/05/30/this/ )

When my daughter saw this thing ( thingiverse.com/thing:8859 ) she wanted to take the pieces off to have the "X" and "O" to play with for Tic-Tac-Toe. Since I had been messing with a case ( thingiverse.com/thing:8860 ), I decided to try to mash them together into a little travel Tic-Tac-Toe game.

There is a little video of it building here:
youtube.com/watch?v=nRKHwylv1Ms

This is an original work, but is similar to:
thingiverse.com/thing:7614
thingiverse.com/thing:8881
thingiverse.com/thing:8364

I had a commercial brush kind of like this once.

The base is thin, so it is flexible.

It is good for short haired animals, especially if they are shedding.

The main difference is that this one is in OpenSCAD. I could not get the original STL to import properly.

This version prints a blank plug, and then the coin that you can glue on.

If you have an STL of any logo or artwork, you should be able to replace the logo in the coin.

For some reason, Skeinforge refuses to fill the square in the logo. Hmmm.

This thing is related to "Kitchenaid Mixer 'Mixer' Attachment Cap by syvwlch":
thingiverse.com/thing:8429

From the original thing:
This is a replacement cover for a Kitchenaid mixer's attachment port. A friend of mine lost his and I offered to model and print a replacement. This fits my new "Classic Plus" as well as a ~15 year old "Artisan" I tried at my parents house. I imagine it should fit the majority of mixers.

I’ve uploaded both a Makerbot branded and plain cap (suitable for customization).

More information and pictures available in this blog post: thenewhobbyist.com/2011/05/everyday-fixes-with-makerbot-2-kitchenaid-cap/

On this part: thingiverse.com/image:57507

You can see some damped oscillations after the logo. I made this thing to try to get a better look at them.

The photos were taken of a part built on MiseryBot which has a lowrider.

Printing was at 40mm/sec

Someone with mote math skilz than me might be able to draw some conclusion as to what the waves mean.

For historical reasons, we needed several FTDI FT232R ( ftdichip.com/Products/ICs/FT232R.htm ) based USB to serial converters to use for testing. FTDI makes a nice little eval board ( ftdichip.com/Products/Modules/DevelopmentModules.htm#EVAL232R ) that would work fine, but we needed a case.

Enter the MiseryBot!

THIS THING IS FAMOUS! Shows up at 1:54 on this episode of Robot Hospital: youtube.com/watch?v=shpt1hD4z7Y

This thing can be used to see what your skeinforge settings and bot will do for certain wall thicknesses:

0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2

The OpenSCAD is included in case you want to try other thicknesses.

The image has the "as designed" thickness in green, the measured straight wall thickness "as printed" in red (for my bot, of course), and the measured cylinder thickness in purple.

My bot is set up with 0.25mm layer thickness and W/T of 2.0 for theoretical wall thickness or 0.5mm. For reference, I am using the MakerBot 0.4mm nozzle, but that really does not come into play.

Slightly related to: thingiverse.com/thing:7114

This is an adapter that will allow you to out a 60mm fan inline with some 1.5" flex hose.

The hose just screws into the adapter. The fan bolts to the adapter using M3x16 bolts and M3 nuts.

I had a good glass lid that we use all the time. The wood knob was pretty cracked though.

This is a replacement, designed in OpenSCAD.

This is a slight modification to whosawhatsis' excellent Minimalistic X-rod mount. Thanks to whosawhatsis for including the OpenSCAD code.

I made it 2mm thicker, and extended the body out around the nuts.

I also removed the rep-rap style teardrop, because I could not see what that helped.

And of course I made the resolution really high so the files would be huge and skeinforge slow.

This is a quick hack of thingiverse.com/thing:3575 to make a demo part set to will show off how the gears mesh and turn.

I made this for a small show I attended, and gave them away "hot off the bot" to the attendees.

Not for building.

Just to be used for modeling.

Might work well in conjunction with "60mm fan shroud by zgbot":
thingiverse.com/thing:8091

or "60mm fan to flex hose by MiseryBot":
thingiverse.com/thing:8774

UPDATE: Version 0v1 is a bit taller and I worked on the symmetry and cleaned up the base. Enjoy!

I wanted to put a base on "George Hart's 3D Sculptures" hyperboloid ( thingiverse.com/image:40818 ), but I could not get it to render in OpenSCAD.

So I cooked up this one.

It looks a little like this one from MakeALot:

thingiverse.com/thing:6917

UPDATES:

New video showing awesome Z speed:
youtube.com/watch?v=87sbzmQVkww
Thanks to Jetty's Accelerated Firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380

* The original 0v0 zip did not have all the needed files in it.
The current MiZ_Rider_0v0_fixed.zip corrects this.

* There is now 0v1 uploaded. This corrects some fiddly stuff I
found when I assembled the thing. MiZ_Rider_0v1_No_STL.zip
has this latest OpenSCAD code but I have not had time to generate
the STL.
Misery_Z_Rider_0v1_STL_ONLY.zip
has the 8 STL build plates, ready to print.

MiZ is a complete Z-Stage replacement for the MakerBot Cupcake. Almost all the parts can be printed on your MakerBot. It will work with many extruders: MK5, MK6, MiseryPusher ( thingiverse.com/thing:7129 shown) as well as any other extruder that is designed to attach to the standard MBI MK5 style extruder base plate (such as: thingiverse.com/thing:5684 thingiverse.com/thing:6713 thingiverse.com/thing:7113 thingiverse.com/thing:7037 ).

The goals were to have very few modifications to the MakerBot, and to have a rigid structure that would yield good quality prints (like:
thingiverse.com/derivative:8582 )

With my setup I can get 550mm/minute Z-travel rate:
youtube.com/watch?v=K-9MwgUz1v0

Here is a longer and more boring video:
youtube.com/watch?v=Fuudemoq2MQ

And yet another showing stability during a high-vibration fill:
youtube.com/watch?v=_Z8G90gfEYI

Excluding nuts & bolts, re-used parts, and shipping the non-printed cost is as low as $26:
* 2 of 12mm x 13 rods: $5 each
* 8 of 623 bearings : $10/10 (shielded) or $20/10 (sealed)
* ABS glue: $6
Links to the parts are in the instructions PDF.

I do have some tweaks and improvements in mind. Please watch for updates.

Heritage -- This design owes a lot of inspiration to these two things:

Z-Rider by twotimes thingiverse.com/thing:4740

Type A Z-Rider. v3.2 by TheRuttmeister thingiverse.com/thing:5586

Suggestions:

whosawhatsis recommended his "Minimalistic X-rod mount":
thingiverse.com/thing:6884
instead of the version in the file. His is a nice design and should work well, it is lower profile and easier to open/close.

This thing is an experimental printable elastomeric coupling designed for a molded and cured-in-place rubber insert of RTV silicone sealer.
This is a revision of thingiverse.com/thing:7687

This version should be stiffer, and self centering.

It has robust clamping, and should be well balanced if tightened evenly.

HD Macro video of it being printed:
youtube.com/watch?v=rkfMtFEaQG4

Heritage -- this is a variation of these two couplers:
thingiverse.com/thing:7678
thingiverse.com/thing:7687

This thing is obsolete. Here is the next generation version: thingiverse.com/thing:7831

This thing is an experimental printable elastomeric coupling designed for a molded and cured-in-place rubber insert.

The rubber part is cured-in place RTV silicone sealer.

It has robust clamping, and should be well balanced if tightened evenly.

Heritage:

This is a variation of:

thingiverse.com/thing:7678

based on the suggestion there by JelleAtProtospace

=================================
AFTER I BUILD AND TEST THIS THING, I THINK IT FAIL.

Basically the silicone takes a long time to cure and is too soft. Overloads tend to make it want to go off center.

I do not recommend making this thing.

Note: This thing: thingiverse.com/thing:8771 Is probably a better choice.

This thing is an printable clamp for anchoring the X stage rods into the side walls of MakerBot Cupcake.

Heritage:

This is an original work, but owes inspiration or is similar to these things:

X-rod mount by twotimes:
* thingiverse.com/thing:4617

Minimalistic X-rod mount by whosawhatsis:
* thingiverse.com/thing:6884

This thing is an printable spider coupling designed for a rubber insert. It has robust clamping, and should be well balanced if tightened evenly.

If the rubber spider is cut cut correctly, there will be axial compression cushioning, angular cushioning, and rotary cushioning without slop.

This design must be kept in compression, it will not stay together under tension.

Video showing low-speed operation, with an exaggerated angle:
youtube.com/watch?v=YA71gIn71Zk

Video showing higher speed operation:
youtube.com/watch?v=QuOfSZBd0wA

(Alternative experimental version here that uses silicone sealer: thingiverse.com/thing:7831 )

Heritage:

This is an original work, but owes inspiration or is similar to these things:

Universal Joint by twotimes:
* thingiverse.com/thing:5078

Flexible shaft coupling by twotimes:
* thingiverse.com/thing:5439

Prusa Mendel PLA Coupling by Griffin_Nicoll
* thingiverse.com/thing:7153

Printed flexible beam coupling by jmgiacalone
* thingiverse.com/thing:7373

Spider coupling - 5mm axis to M8 drivescrew by lievenstandaert:
* thingiverse.com/thing:6524

Hoeken's Coupling by hoeken:
* thingiverse.com/thing:5097

Update 2011/03/28: Added the z-stage.

We took the DXF files from here

svn.makerbot.com/trunk/cupcake/lasercut-parts/z-body/

on 2010 / 03 / 28, (Revision 1254) pushed them into SolidWorks, extruded the pieces 5mm, saved them as STL, imported them in to OpenSCAD, re-assembled them in OpenSCAD, and re-saved them.

This might be useful for using as OpenSCAD a modeling tool.

Unfortunately, the newer version has an error in OpenSCAD and will not export an STL. If you know how to fix that, please message me and I'll put your fix up.

The older files from thingiverse.com/thing:457 are also included, commented out.

This is a retrofit stepper design for anyone wanting to get rid of the DC motor filament pusher. It uses the MK5 hot end.

Edit: I ended up having to make an aluminum idler pulley. The printed ABS idler pulleys work for a while but eventually get a flat spot and stop working.

The big benefit of this design is that you can cam it open and have full inspection or cleaning ability in seconds.

Oh, and it uses a stepper which allows you to use the Skeinforge 35 reversal module, which will allow your prints to not suck.

The spring tensioner is largely insensitive to variations in filament thickness. One less thing to fiddle with.

It uses a lever design "NEW! IMPROVED! Now with MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE!" that will push really hard on the filament, but is super easy to open and close.

This design uses the super cool 13.6:1 geared stepper motor from over at MakerGear:
makergear.com/products/motors

In case MakerGear is out of stock, whosawhatsis reports this motor should work:
phidgets.com/products.php?category=23&product_id=3311

With the stainelss MK5 drive pulley
store.makerbot.com/mk5-drive-gear.html
drilled out to 8mm (get these with a 20% off coupon: bit.ly/fUdpE9 ).

The motor shaft has a support bearing, and all four motor mounting bolts are used.

It bolts right down to the MK5 plexi bridge, using the original hardware.

It needs two 6-32 x 4" screws. I found these as part of a toggle bolt at my local TrueValue hardware store.

It also needs two springs that will fit over the 6-32 bolts. I used Century Spring Company SC-419, also from my local TrueValue hardware store.

It re-uses the 8x7x22 and 6x6x17 bearings from the old MK4.

The design is in OpenSCAD, and included in the file. There are some conditionals to create the files to be exported to STL for the builds. There is either an error in the OpenSCAD file or I am pushing OpenSCAD's limits, because it will only preview in "thrown together" mode now. Well, if you put a % on main body it previews OK. Oh, and the Z axis goes through the motor, which was dumb.

There is a little video of it building here:
youtube.com/watch?v=nRKHwylv1Ms

History: This is kind of like a lot of different pushers. I like a grooved rolling idler with a bearing. I do not like the a flat bearing pressing right onto the round filament. I like the MK5 drive wheel. I like the 13.6:1 MakerGear stepper. The MK5 Extruder is working (this particular minute). I like the idea of having all four motor mount bolts used. I like having the end of the motor shaft supported in a bearing. Putting all that together with an over-center lever and spring tensioner gets us here.

MK5 Wade's-Style Tensioner by ScribbleJ
thingiverse.com/thing:6402

MK5-6 STEPSTRUDER NEMA 23 DIRECT DRIVE PIVOTING FILAMENT PUSHER by jstkatz
thingiverse.com/thing:7037

Yet another extruder filament pusher by jag
thingiverse.com/thing:7113

Accessible Wade's Extruder by GregFrost
thingiverse.com/thing:6713

I installed some cheapo white LED undercounter lights. My wife complained that they made it look like a disco, since you could see the LEDs from the side. After a few months, they had already grown dim, so they went into the trash.

The goals of these lights are:

1) low enough profile that they are hidden by the lip under the cabinet

2) optical shield (the makerbotted part) to make the LEDs not look like a disco

3) high quality LEDs that are run below spec to ensure a long life.

After installing 4 of these lights under the cabinet above our breakfast bar, it has gone from a shadow spot to the bright place where I put things that I need to read.

Nothing special . . . I just combined the small parts to reduce the number of builds you need to make.

This is the second version. The older version is here: thingiverse.com/thing:7091

This is a simple piece that forces the extruder to start and stop on short strips.

If the strips are clean and the exact same length as the control box, the start and stop calibration of the extruder is good!

This version has better control of the test stripe so you can tweak it to one pass of the head, and prints out multiple sets of bars, each at a different length.

Slightly related to: thingiverse.com/thing:8859