If you want to fit a Denon DL-110 cartridge (instead of a Rega cartridge) to your RB-300 tonearm (on a Rega P3), then you will need a spacer because the Denon cartridge is higher than the Rega cartridge.

This spacer will not need another nut (will just fit) to fix the tonearm.
This spacer is 3.70mm high which I found the best choice for the Denon DL-110 Cartridge. If you need a different height, let me know and I'll upload one...

I was thinking about making my own t-shirt artwork eversince, but silkprinting needs much equipment that I didn't want to buy to just make two or tree shirts for my own...

So I invented another Idea: The 3D printable t-shirt (or textile) artwork. PLA will melt at about 60°C - fair enough to be ironed-on to any kind of fabric. I tested it with some bags I am sewing to organize my luggage for holiday... :)

edit 1: added some more critters to experiment with..

This thing is meant to update your existing reprap mendel and modify the belt route of the X-axis in the most simple and accurate way.

I made this because I had plenty of backlash and belt wear issues. With the original belt-path I had to replace the belt after a month or so due to steel core breakage. Later (with the first modification of the belt path) I had problems with backlash of the axis.

I made this X-axis update particularly to easily modify your existing mendel with the least effort of material and best possible results.

The new axis is inspired by the prusa-mendel style of belt system and by a similar Idea found here: thingiverse.com/thing:11820

A really good solution... but I was to lazy to disassemble so much of my mendel and therefore the difference is, that you don't need any additional parts for the X-carryage and you can keep the whole idler side of the x-axis more or less untouched. :)

Please mind:
One user that made this mod had problems with belt lifetime. The tooth and exterior has been detached from the tension carrier. I suggest to not over tighten the flipped belt. This can cause too much stress to the belt and might destroy it. My machine had no problems with this issue and was running >30 hours since the mod.

EDIT:
I added another version of the idler guiding roller wheel for the belt. This one is higher and made of two parts. it can be equipped with two bearings instead of just one to minimize wheel-wobble on the axis.

My version of a belt tensioning system for Mendel x axis and T5 belt.
I use it since some time and it works great.

If you use different extruders, is a hassle to recalibrate your reprap each time you change the extruder. Therefore I decided to make my hobbet bolts much more precisely and reproducible.

To gain better hobbet bolts, you need the little bolt hobbit and a proxxon micromot 50 (with some adjustment you might also be able to use any other kind of dremel-like tool).

With the bolt hobbit, you can make a hobbet bolt with 32 teeth that are perfectly parallel, sharp and have the same dimensions. Furthermore it is easy to reproduce some identical bolts (that feed the exact same amount of filament per revolution to the hot end) so it is no longer necessary to recalibrate your firmware each time you change the extruder.

This thing is slightly inspired by the KNRLR found here: thingiverse.com/thing:21782 but made much more rigid and handyer to rotate the bolt (can probably be used for mass-production of hobbed bolts :) )

edit 1: Added IGES design file
edit 2: I just made the first >6hour print with the new bolt (it was a print with a large number of retractions - the worst situation for the filament feeding system) and it worked absolutely flawless! Printing speed was up to 70mm/s in this print (40mm/s average).
edit 3: people who print another machine-holder (as found in derivates for example) can now download the standalone lever-only stl file in order to not have to print the proxxon-holder too.

Add as a relief to your 3D-Printed objects to ensure they will be disposed of correctly, once no longer in use.

My Wade extruders are now under fire since over one year and still doing great. The most used one now has some noticeable slackness and I need to soon replace the gears. I decided to make a bit more beautiful gears with a beefed-up teeth-area. This is the result... enjoy!

Tech data:
11 x 39 teeth-ratio
Bore on small pully is made for Ø 5mm motor axle and has space for 3 M3 set screws (press in M3 nuts...)

This is a cookie cutter for all of you lazy guys out there ;)

It will make it possible to seamlessly cut the whole batter without having to re-roll it out. It is very much inspired by the work of Maurits Cornelis Escher (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M._C._Escher), one of my favorite graphic artists.

Just a derivate of thingiverse.com/thing:17455 that is printable without support material. It has one additional part. Highest part is 94mm high (a bit less than the original due to possibilities of my mendel...). There are two different sizes of the membrane holder... smaller one works, bigger one still printing printed and working even better than smaller one. due to greater membrane diameter, it seems to work better with lower ferquencies... I would suggest to try the 30mm version.

the picture shows my print in clear PLA (oops some black found its way out the nozzle too...) with the smaller membrane housing.

If you like it, you can check and comment my other designs here: thingiverse.com/elk/things

This is a TinTin-Cartoon-Style Rocket for 3D printing. It was inspired by the thing thingiverse.com/thing:4509 by twotimes. It is not a derivate since it was completely rebuilt/drawn from scratch (nevertheless was it inspired by the version published by twotimes which is a really nice and large model).
My aim was to make it really easy to assemble and print. It consists of 12 printed parts only and just one threaded rod and two nuts are necessary to assemble.

Tech. Data:
Height: 160mm
Biggest part (max. spred x/y/z): 67mm/75mm/55mm
Threaded rod dimensions: M3 x 125mm
Nuts: 1x M3 Nylock / 1x M3 standard nut

Hint:
Scale all parts by factor 1.272727 --> 1.3 (tested, works fine!) to get a M4 Version - will be 208mm high and use a M4 rod of 160mm and two M4 nuts. Should still be printable on a makerbot (largest spread of foot-part will be 97.5mm). You will perhaps like to redrill the holes for the m4 rod with a 4.2mm drill (or lightly rework with a round file) for easy assembly...

Check the "I made one" section for comparison picture of the two sizes...

Derivate work of the above mentioned part. I just made some minor adjustments (cosmetics / reinforcements / easier sliede-in of bearings...):

- Rounded screw-surface (a bit less material used)
- Beveled attachement (minor reinforcement)
- Bevel for better slide-in of bearings

Comments after the first print:
Prints nice! Made with a 0.35mm nozzle, ABS, 2 shells... see pic. The print was not reworked - except the drilling (pierced through with a file...).

This is a frame vertex for Mendel / Prusa Mendel using less material than the solid version. I know there are other attempts of vertexes - so this is just an additional one.

There is a version with feet and one without.
For a Mendel / Prusa Mendel, 6 vertexes are necessary. You can print two without feet and four with feet

Comments are welcome!

--> Please mind: this is for M8 rod!

Comments after the first print:
The vertex without feet weights 12 grams.
I printed it in ABS with 4 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, and with relatively coarse infill (you can see the infill on the picture of the vertexes while printing).
If I calculate that weight back to filament length it tells me that it takes about 1650mm of 3mm feedstock to print one of these.

Comments after the second print:
Printed the version with feet now.
Again in ABS, this time with 2 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, same coarse infill and they are 11 grams. They feel really robust but I did not screw a frame together yet so still needs to be tested if two such thin shells are ok.

Snowflake for Christmas Tree

This snowflake can be used to hang on your Christmas tree, door, window, on your desk lamp or wherever a snowflake is needed.

Print with a 0.35mm nozzle gives good results - didn't test it with a 0.5mm nozzle.

I was inspired by Madox who did a nice little clip for 1.75mm filament (find that one here thingiverse.com/thing:12516 ) . I think this is a really useful thing but I only have 3mm Filament - so I decided to make a 3mm version. Still needs to be tested.. didn't print it by now. Idea is to clip the filament in instead of pushing through the hole...

--> I changed the overall height from 10 to 6mm (prints faster, and I think it will be rigid enough...)

This is the largest printing project I designed so far... we call it the ScoopLamp! It is a lamp made of only printed parts, it doesn't need any tools to assemble (if well printed) and no glue or screws (only a piece of steel wire or a cable tie to fix it on the bulb holder).

The Lamp on the photos is printed with a 0.5mm nozzle. I used PLA silver for the segments and white ABS for the rings. One element took about 7 hours to print on my setup :)

This is a case for the GoPro Hero HD Camera. I printed this in soft PLA material. It was designed to be mounted on a R/C model airplane. The ribs on the front side are for shock absorbing in case of a crash. There are openings for the knobs and for the direct A/V-Out. Like this it is possible to use it as FPV camera.

--> FPV: First Person View; more info on:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Person_View

This servo holder is made to hold HXT500 type servos (5 gram micro servo in any kind of R/C vehicle or other machine that needs servos. I designed it to hide the servos evenly in the wings of my R/C airplanes (used as aileron or flap servos on my scratchbuilt foamies).

There is a "left" and a "right" version (mirrored) - use whatever fits your needs best. For mirrored applications (such as in R/C plane wings) you might want to use both versions.

The showed holders are printed in silver coloured PLA plastic.
Weight of each holder (in PLA silver) is about 3 grams.

The servo can be found here:
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=663&aff=141728

EDIT 1:
The Turnigy Micro Servo TG-1600A has similar dimensions and also works flawlessly with this servo holder:
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7473&aff=141728

If you use two different extruders on your Reprap Mendel you might want a "ElkAdjuster".
This construction is a rapid-adjustment system that allows to adjust the level of the Z-Opto-Flag within seconds and without any tool.
It helps me upon an extruder change to quickly adjust the level.

If you just finished your reprap or repstrap or any other cool self made 3D printer, you must be very thirsty! I know that because I was too. So you can start with a beer while tweaking your printer to print really fine and cool stuff.
This will cost you a whole lot of swet too and you will be thirsty again, so you definitely need a drink! Read below how to get a good one...

I had some difficulties to get the wade screw ready properly. I tried the tap-method but was not successful so I decided to try the teeth version. This "thing" will show a method to get a desired amount of teeth into the bolt and how to divide the surface of this screw into exactly same sized teeth.

You will find all about the wade extruder here:
reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder

...and here on Thingiverse:
thingiverse.com/thing:1794

Can actually also be used on other similar extruder designs.

"Hasenfranz" is a neat bunny-cookie cutter that will let you cut nice easter cookies :) Mjummy!!

Print out and feel free to use it on your desired cookies mixture!

This is a clip to fit the M8 studding / rods of a reprap mendel machine and hold any wires / cables down to the rod.
It can be used instead of zip ties (I had to cut many zip ties again during my mendel build). The CableClippy can be re-opened with ease and helps to keep your cable chaos neatly arranged :)

This is a little clamp / clip to attach additional stuff to your Mendel or to any M8 rods. I designed this clamp to keep my fumes filtration cover in place (will be posted here later).
It has a small drilling to screw anything you like on it...