For gaming AFK.
You can support me by ordering there:
[Shapeways Entry](http://www.shapeways.com/model/1119867/simplistic-symmetric-die.html?li=modelEdit)

A super compact band cam satbilizer that can
effectively suppress all rotational induced image unsharpnesses.


#### The Problem

Full sized tripods are the best stabisisation method for cameras - no question. But when you're hiking or go to a party they are too heavy and bulky. Most people will think twice and only take a tripod with them if taking photos is the main objective. Also small tripods can't really replace full sized ones. Then there are rope stabilisatiors available but their stabilization effect is very limited. So with the current situation you often have to fall back to harsh and ugly flash light in party situations or you have to use high ISO values for beautiful dawn sceneries making the images unnecessary noisy.


#### The Solution

In short it's an elaborate improvement to the rope stabilisator method.
(Refer to the images to better understand the following description.)
It's a stable H-shaped structure that screws onto the bottom of any camera.
This structure provides four eyelets as stabilization points.
Through the left two and right two eyelets runs each a wire loop with around 60cm circumference length.
(I prototyped with electric wire to attain low tensibility and high outer friction)
Those loops make the pitch choosable on the fly and more importantly stabilize the pitch.
Thereby vertical smearing in the resulting image is reduced.
On the bottom of each loop is a band (again with low tensibility) connected.
This is done via hooks and strap-tri-glides with eyelets.
The bands are length adjustable and form loops at their ends for the photogrphers feet to slip in.
Those two bands make the hight and roll adjustable and more importantly stabilize the roll.
Thereby circular smearing around the center of the resulting image is reduced.
The yaw instabilities and the assoziated horizontal image smearing must be compensated with the cameras native neck strap.
This is intended and must be noted in the "stabilisators" description - it's very important.

#### Usage:

Slip into the shoe loops.
Take a wide but still comfortable stride.
Put the cameras neck strap around you.
Pull the camera forward and upward (you may move the loops to adjust pitch).
Don't pull too weak or to strong just comfortable and use both hands.
Take a THE photo.

Handling of the prototype feels good but an overload protection turned out to be neccesary.
(Stepping on the bands while walking can break the eyelets.)
Performance was not yet quantified.

#### Features:

** Compact & Lightweight.
** Rotation stabilisation on all axes.
** Quickadjustable Pitch.
** Unobstrusive when mounted.
* mount screw retention
* insets for corc/felt/rubber
* stiff design
* optimal size for micro 4/3 cameras

My first try to scan with photos and 123D Catch.

I guess this thing is supposed to be used for a flower pot but it was used for a table here. The original was about very roughly 80cm high.

The license is enforced by Autodesk. See here:
sitesupport.123dapp.com/entries/20059427
under 3. Your content (ii)

Interesting fact:
In the tutorial videos there where three resolutions to choose from but I could choose only from two. I hope they didn't remove the highest resolution option.
If anyone knows details please comment.

To clamp "emmets Gear Bearing modified" thingiverse.com/thing:56148 together.


Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:42665

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=42665

This is a slight modification to emmets gear bearing that makes it post assemblable.

Advantages:
1) Zero clearance possible
2) Multicolor with single nozzle printer possible
3) Seperate prints -> no travell moves -> better surface quality

A Printer Shoulder Strap Carrying Aid

Tired of carrying your printer with one hand?
Convert your lasercutted wood printer in a backpack.
Screw two of these onto the upper front frame of your printer and add two shoulder straps.

This is a roller bearing that can be printed in one piece.

edit: needs improvement; see below.

The special thing about it:
It has less sliding friction than a roller bearing WITH cage.
This is archived through the central rolls.
Those let the inner and outer rolls roll on rolls.
This bearing can can take radial and axial force.

It should run under (axial) load so that rolling is ensured !!
A preload would work to but than a zero clearnce print with post assembly is required.
(split the ring or better the center piece in two for that)

A very little unavoidable friction occurs at the slanted top & bottom retainers but this should'nt hurt.
(gears also have a tiny friction component)

It was inspired by this thing:
thingiverse.com/thing:55515
Which was inspired by emmets popular gear bearing.
thingiverse.com/thing:53451

This needs improvement !
My test-print fused together on the outer edge so hard that I broke the ring when I tried to break the outer rollers loose. At the same time the inner rollers where so loose that they almost slid out. Also the small diameter rollers didn't turn out round enough to roll - even under load.

This is a mechanism to transmit rotation power between two axles that can move relative to one another but stay parallel at all times. It can take higher loads than a doublecardan joint.

I need to ad a clearance parameter for the pins. The first test-print was stuck.

it was inspired by this:
thingiverse.com/thing:14060

and it is intended as a drive for my moineau pump model
thingiverse.com/thing:28237

For the connector pieces the optimal length is chosen automatically.

A reversible quick connector tho hold bags or other stuff.
The hooks snap in very pleasently and can take quite a bit of force.
You may use it in conjunction with:
thingiverse.com/thing:45219

1/4'' UNC
one is 3mm unthreaded then 6mm threaded
the other is 25mm threaded

I made a test-print with a crazy outer layer height of 25 micron -yes- 0.025mm. The print worked but there was some waving reducing resolution and making the surface rough. Nevertheless it turned out very usable and especially sturdy against breakage through sideward bending.

I've added an eyelet to attach rings hooks or ropes.

To mount electronic devices like Garmin navigation computers to bike handlebars.
*.stl files:
For 22mm tubes.
The ball has 17.5mm diameter.

Exactly the same only with an edge breaking parameter.

For hand tightening of plates like things to wall like things.

Default parameters are for a standard 1/4'' (UNC) tripod screw.

A pin & clamping ring combo to clamp thin plates together.
e.g. usable as connectors for scissor mechanisms.

All credits go to the sxm team of uni-münster!

They say: "We grant everybody the right to construct the microscope using the here-published design for private or educational purposes."

They archived true atomic resolution on
HOPG (~Graphite) with DIY means!

http://sxm4.uni-muenster.de/
sxm4.uni-muenster.de/stm-en/

This is a 1:1 copy of their 2D Technical Drawings ported to OpenSCAD.

Fin for my old Two Blade Propeller thing:
thingiverse.com/thing:8178

To sharpen the blade and polish the channel both can be slided out and are easily acessible with files or sanding paper. The sliding also should permit adjustment for maximum loudness. (It needs to be tweaked since at the moment it is loudest on the maximally open position)

This whistle is designed in such a way that no flat top printing surfaces are visible to the internal chamber meaning that even if your flow settings are a bit too low the chamber will still be airtight. Its made out of two half-shells to avoid any internal overhangs.

Made with miniSageCADAS
thingiverse.com/thing:40210
command: intersection2(cylinderc(30,60),gyroid_left(3,25))

A tool for Constructive Solid Geometry like OpenSCAD but written in Sage sagemath.org/

There is already quite some functionality in very little code.

You can (via the Jmole 3D viewer in sage) preview & turn the 3d output before saving to *.stl file. With Sage you have a fully blown computer algebra system CAS at hand. Transfinite unbounded objects can be used for construction.


Sages implicit_plot3d is not made for this purpouse so I think this is more useful for experimentation with system design than useful construction work. But I might be wrong.

In this context I like to mention
ImplicitCAD (written by Christopher Olah)
implicitcad.org/
github.com/colah/ImplicitCAD/blob/master/Graphics/Implicit/Primitives.hs
which Is ment to deliver good performance.

I started to code miniSageCAD because while trying sage it became patently obvious to me how easy It'd be to get a minimal useful CSG system.

I wanted to preserve symbolic derivability for all csg expressions (to have symbolic access to the surface normals). I found that only lambdas are symbolically derivable but those lambda expressions can not have line breaks. This makes it necessary to break more complex objects down into subfunctions. A good thing for documentation (names) but bad in that it clutteres the global namespace. Also obstucted by this is the idea to e.g. transport the positions of the edges of a cube up the csg graph accessible in e linearly-transformed way.

edit:
new in v0.04:
corrected translate
arbitrary arity union and intersection
prism rod, prism
inshell, onshell, outshell
zfunction
pieslicer
difference2
gyroid (left & right)

Well this is pretty much self explanatory.
Quite interesting math in there.

The main pic is a cross-eyed 3D view of an explosion view. You can watch it in full 3D without viewing aid. Just overlap the two sides by crossing your eyes. Note that you must first click it to view it un-cropped.

This is the front part of the Skull of an around thirty year old man.

FOSS - Slicer
slicer.org/
was used to convert the CT data into an rudimentary *.stl of 523MB size.
This tutorial video helped a lot:
youtube.com/watch?v=og3t1i9gSG0

Then Meshlab:
* check on holes
* removal of unconnected parts
* smoothing and downsampling to 130MB

It might be printable as it is with an SLS-Nylon printer but the natural stucture is rather fine (thinn walls) in relation to the models size. Thus for an FDM Printer I guess further modification will be necessary. Either unrealistic simplification for a smaller print, or scale-up and splitup into multiple parts.

Originally intended to be a tool that enables one to bind your hair together with only one hand it failed miserably, but since it doubles and triples as a finger trainer and a slingshot I'll still put it here.

edit:
On suggestion by Cameron renamed from
‘Cool Finger Cup Tool’ to
‘Finger Slinger’

DESCRIPTION:

This is the center part of a progressing-cavity-pump (PCP-pump or moineau-pump)

It implements the design approach with alternating epi- and hypocycloids which avoids cusps/kinks (the curve is C1 but not C2 continous)

Right now it uses two and threefold symmetry for rotor and stator respectively, but it shouldn't be hard to change it to any N and (N+1) symmetry (it's prepared) like three and four for more sturdiness or one and two for more throughput.

It is a positive displacement pump and thus provides (if the clearance would be zero) constant flow with arbitrary pressure. At no time the input and output section is directly connected. It is suitable to pump high viscous liquids possibly mixed with solid particles. You can find more info on wikipedia.


IMPORTANT NOTES:

Major tweaking points are marked with arrows.
Currently wall thicknesses are faked by scaling correctly for the radial component and rotating incorrectly (by eye) for tangential component. An offset in the epi and hypocycloid functions would be better.
For the initial print I used a very high clearance of 0.6mm to make sure it will fit.
If your printer is tuned well I recommend to reduce it a lot and make a new stator *.stl.

sidenote:
There are also conical PCPs which by nature cant be completely tight if made out of noncompliable material.

MOTIVATION:

I am thinking about a steel printed version for re extrusion of PLA and PET plastics. Judging from the PLA melt artworks PLA should flow in by gravity. Sadly I had no success trying to "gravity melt" PET in a steel-can at 230° in 15min. Melting it with an soldering iron at that temperature works like a charm ... why the difference?

For now this is a huge one just for fun and maybe for (off printhead?) paste extrusion.



SOURCES:

siag.project.ifi.uio.no/problems/gravesen/
www2.mat.dtu.dk/people/J.Gravesen/MoineauPump/

A square shaped support tent!

You have a structure shaped like a "+"
which cannot be oriented in any way to be overhang-free
and bridging won't work either?

In that case this thing might help.
It spans a thinn square membrane at a choosen height
which supports your overhang.
This membrane can afterwards be easyly cut away with a knife.

Version 2 is here!
(see at the end of the description)

This is more or less a copy of the "Mini-shredder/Mini-filetador" from Takashi Utsumi

It is designed for wider blades:
Width: 18mm - Thickness: 0.5mm
The cutting edge length: 100mm
(the whole paralellogram is longer)

Links to the original:
utsumi.com.br/pet/English/filetador/index.html
utsumi.com.br/pet/English/dicas/minifiletadores_como_fazer.html
utsumi.com.br/pet/English/

Possible uses:
1) Weaving -- Make cool woven objects like those described on Utsumis pages.
2) Directly feed it into a hot end (to be designed) for printing (The melting point of bottle-PET is below 260°C edit: I sucessfully printed with 250°C)
blog.reprap.org/2009/03/drink-bottle-feedstock.html
3) Feed it into into a re-extruder to make 3mm filament for bowden printers.

After some testing with version 1 it is clear that PLA is definitely not suitable - the friction heat cuts right through the plastic after just a few 10m of ribbon. ABS might work but I think an incorporated L-Alu-Profie will be better.

Edit:
Version 2 is aviable !
This one uses an Alu-L-Profile for feasable wear resistance.
You'll either need an aluminum-L-profile of the following dimensions or change the *.scad parameters.
width = 25mm; height = 15mm; (length = 135mm)
To make the production of the alu part easier a drilling & sawing template part is included.

Parts for a garden well or garden fountain.

Water goes in into the small basin and out the circular outlet. It should move in a figure eight, which might be audible and optically appealing.

Please don't comment about any esoteric stuff.

Sincde PLA is not soluble in acteone I was looking into alternative ways to get a smooth surface.
One way that leads to maybe a more artistic than practical result is to use molten PLA itself.
I call it PLA-burndropping.
Read the Instructions to see why.

This is for quickly changing the effective endstop positions on the Ultimaker. (Note: I'am not very happy with this approach and probably will abandon it in favour for another.)

If a crank isn't suitable this is the right thing if you need (others) to manually apply torque to an axis.
This combines functionality with a bit of elegance.