This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

This is an electric motor made from a printed circuit board, some 3D printed components, 44 magnets, 44 steel washers, and a handful of electronic components for drive circuitry.

It is similar in design to thingiverse.com/thing:802 but it is much easier to make and the performance is much better. Maximum mechanical power output is about 600 mW. Top no-load speed is about 2000 rpm. This is probably enough power to do something useful.

Also provided is an open source script that runs on Matlab or GNU Octave to generate custom motor coil patterns. The script will export CAM files in KiCad or EAGLE format, so you can fabricate coil patterns of your own liking.

While this motor used a commercially produced PCB for the coilplate, the idea is that users can produce functional motors using nothing more than their own 3D printers.

See reprap.org/wiki/Automated_Circuitry_Making for an overview of using Reprap-style printers to fabricate circuit boards.

Videos of the motor in operation are at
youtube.com/watch?v=aIj4dKaEXnU
youtube.com/watch?v=Gj_GX-TvAQU

This work was presented at ASME IDETC 2011. The paper citation is DETC2011-48602, Design of an Electromagnetic Actuator Suitable for Production by Rapid Prototyping, by Matthew Moses and Gregory S. Chirikjian

This project began when my son chose to investigate block and tackle for his 1st grade science fair project. I was going to zip down to the local Home Depot and buy the supplies, but then thought, “I should just print em!”. I iterated the design a couple of times before I printed the first full assembly. Then printed 3 more full assemblies. Works great! You will see that there are two types of sheaves, a single and double. The double actually should have been two separate thin sheaves next to each other within the pulley plates. The rope had very little friction, so I don't think much advantage was lost. Wooden dowels (1/4”) were used to hold the hooks, eyes and sheaves between the side plates. You can decide whether to use a hook or eye on each end.

The reprap is not the only 3d printer that can replicate itself, now the Makerbot can to.

This Makerbot is made out of aproximatly 150 individual pieces that is printed on , "yes you guessed it) a Makerbot.

My Makerbot worked hard everyday for about a month straight to finish this project, and i am immensly happy about the end resoult.
There are more pictures on the bottom of this page;)

(The pictures doesnt do it justice one bit, but it really is a thing of beauty)

Now i have added a zip file that includes all stl- and max-files.

This is an adapter that lets you attach a Philips ToUCam web cam (model PCVC740K) circuit board to a telescope eye-piece opening, allowing to use the web cam to directly "see" through the telescope.

Photos of the thing are here:
blog.gagalabs.com/finally-printed-the-telescope-webcam-adapter

Update 25-May-2010: Removed enforcement ring to have the sensor closer to the telescope

A quadrisection of a sphere into four identical parts with some novel attributes:

1. The parts have no overhangs.
2. The flat 'bottom' is completely concealed after assembly; there are no flat spots on the exterior of the sphere.
3. Exterior is made entirely of 'sidewalls' where the resolution of FDM really shines.

My test samples were built in transparent PVC on a Solido SD300 Pro, but my goal was to design a Makerbot-friendly shape. Based on feedback from friends, I've adjusted the contours so the pieces 'grab' onto each other after assembly.

More pictures and discussion at my SD300 blog entry at mysd300.blogspot.com/2010/05/novel-decompositions-of-sphere.html

This is a wheel kit to allow the CupCake MakerBot to build a wheel larger than the standard 100mm x 100mm MakerBot platform allows.

As you can see in the more assembled image that it is easy to make paper/card wheel hubs with different "faces" on them to alter the look of the wheels ... Christmas, Halloween etc... but the faces can also be cut into thirds/fourths to MakerBot them as part of the wheel building too.

This is another of many entries to the makezine.com/go/makerbot contest ...

blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/makerbot_giveaway.html



I really need a job ... but I can design a custom part if you like on contract.

A set of OpenScad modules to produce "Playmobile-like" somewhat DUPLO-compatible structures. Also can be used to produce somewhat DUPLO-compatible bricks and to create Doblo/stuff-found-here mashups.

See also: thingiverse.com/thing:2714 (example of a mashup)

Credits: This work is based on

1) The parametric lego duplo by Domonoky ( thingiverse.com/thing:1778 ). Since I can't call this a parametric block anymore, I decided to create a new thing :)

2) Tony Buser's OpenSCAD Bitmap Fonts Module - thingiverse.com/thing:2054. Added on April 9 for version 1.1

Updated, Mai 1 2010:
* Added Lego compatibility
* Tuned some parameters
* Deleted old versions (module syntax remains the same)
* Split into two files: The "factory" and examples
* doblo-factory-1-3.scad
* doblo-factory-examples.scad

Updated, nov 2011:
* Fixed a small (newly found) syntax error
* Added some example bricks that could be used for mashups

This is a Beta version made by an end-user programmer. Code is dreadful, but it does work ;)

It's called "Doblo", because it's not DUPLO (TM). It just happens to fit somewhat. I did not print test if it's Lego compatible, i.e. the smaller bricks. One could imagine resizing a model by half in all directions or just change the parameters probably.

Need something to set your object into the correct light ?
Print yourself a small Spotlight..

This Par64 Spotlight is ~8cm high and 4cm wide.

You can see more pictures at: ifeelbeta.de/index.php/other-objects/par64-spotlight

blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/05/3d-printed_combination_lock.html

instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Combination-Lock/

This was for a final project for my 3D modeling class. I went with a Combo lock. It was done to show how a basic combo lock works. Total size is 4 inches wide. 3.5 front to back and 2.5 tall and is made of 10 parts.

I was going to do a Anniversary release of the files, but I am releasing it sooner because I get asked every once in a while about the .STL files or the Inventor.IPT files so here you go. Enjoy.

Inventor IPT files are for Inventor 2009

Using a file without a handle on is a potentially dangerous concept, what with this spike being moved around rapidly in front of you and with great force, often in the squishy part of your palm. Much safer and more comfortable to use a handle on it. Also you can hang them up with the loop provided in the handle, or use the handle to stop them dropping through your tool rack.

Two sizes are provided as STL's below in the traditional manner; too big, and too small. Fortunately they scale well.

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

This is a parametric lego duplo built in openscad.
I exported and printed a 2x2x1 duplo, but other sizes should work too.

The sizes for the duplo stone could need some more tweaking to make the fit perfect, but current version still sits pretty good.

This is a somewhat improved Sarrus linkage based Z axis. It is much stiffer than the first one. I also have added a threaded rod drive. For more details, see objects.reprap.org/wiki/Sarrus_Z02

SMALdog is a walking robot, using 13 AX-12 servos, that I am currently configuring to compete in the Trinity Fire Fighting contest. This is his new head, printed on a Makerbot.

The head is a single printed part, to which 2 IR sensors, a sonar ranger, an IR photodiode (for detecting the flame), and the ducted fan (for extinguishing the candle) are all mounted. It connects to an AX-12 servo, which allows it to pan.

His buildlog can be found on my blog, showusyoursensors.com

Here is my answer to an realy good start if you want to create a Autonomous rover, built with an Arduino.

projects is super easy:) 3d printing and build, mount the servo motor and wheels.

youtube.com/watch?v=n2sAvA1jWBM

and for next step for me.
youtube.com/watch?v=5u52w2W6XrE

New link
youtube.com/watch?v=sA701RRO62Y

This is my first model to this forum, so be nice :)

I design this her wind turbine for the desktop. There has been a solar panel which generates electricity on to the little engine that sits up in the turbine head.

youtube.com/watch?v=FkYCw5SYI6Q

This is an enclosure for Mini2440 board. I designed using Blender and I am sharing the source file.
This belongs to Lyre Mini2440*, a project to design and build a Free/Open hardware audio player (DAP) and recorder, for use with Rockbox firmware**.

* lyre.sourceforge.net
** rockbox.org

A printed spur gear driven extruder for Mendel or Darwin.

It's replacement Gottlieb C13150 pinball flipper! This is useful for people who need to replace their busted Gottlieb C13150 pinball flippers.

A tool for opening bottles of beer (or soda!). Simply insert a coin and start opening bottles.

Actually it is a multipurpose holder. It made primary for a Dremel to mill my bed flat. But even a pen can be attached ot it.

More details at my blog: blog.arcol.hu/?p=629

Zignig has done a ton of hard work here orienting the various Mendel parts so they fit well on a build platform and putting it all into a single Blender file. However, as a windows user I had trouble getting the STL's out of the blended model. I had to edit the STL export script a little, but managed to export them all.

Here are all 41 pieces for a Mendel, a derivative of Zignig's work ( thingiverse.com/thing:1134 )

Update 2010-03-27: I've uploaded the parts individually as well, so you can see what each part looks like and download just the one you may need.

This is for all you blenderheads out there.

This is all 42 mendel parts imported into a single blender file.

They were lovingly chiseled from obsidian blocks and carefully digitised back into blender.

not.

The waxuum is sort of a reverse-extruder. The idea is that a heated hollow needle is used to remove material from a block of wax in a controlled manner, analogous to conventional machining using an endmill. A vacuum pump* pulls the molten wax through the needle, after which it is deposited in a reservoir where it can be recycled. The wax part can then be used directly, or more likely it can be used as a pattern for a mold. Below is a basic overview of how the process might work in a well-developed system. See video of a simple test at youtube.com/watch?v=rnKD9oIzcnM .

1. A heated basin is filled with wax, which is then allowed to cool. This big block of wax forms the working material for our little setup.

2. A waxuum mounted where the extruder usually goes on your 3D printer carves a master pattern (including containment walls) out of the wax block.

3. Elastomer resin is poured directly into negative pattern in the wax block.

4. When the elastomer cures, it is peeled off the wax master and used as a mold to crank out large numbers of parts.

5. The wax master is remelted within its heated basin. The removed wax in the reservoir is added back. The basin is cooled, and the wax is ready to use again for a new master pattern.

--------------------
ADVANTAGES

1. The wax is melted instead of cut, so high forces are not required at the tool-tip. The low force requirement means that the XYZ positioner can be much more flexible (and cheaper and easier-to-make) than is normally required for conventional machining. Unlike conventional machining, there is no need for chip removal.

2. In many cases the surface finish on parts is better than that on filament-extruded parts, due to the smoothing effect of the hot needle moving over the wax. There are also fewer warping, delamination, and anisotropy problems.

3. You get a mold instead of a part: casting from a pattern can produce parts at a much faster rate than printing. You also have a greater choice of materials (plastics, metals, ceramics, and wax can all be cast in silicone molds).

---------------------
DISADVANTAGES

1. You get a mold instead of a part: there are several additional steps and materials, including the manual work of pouring resins. Sometimes you really want to just print your parts and go.

2. Limited geometry: unless you make multi-part molds with cores and such, you are limited to relatively simple geometry. Hollow and concave parts are difficult.

3. The waxuum is relatively unproven compared to the many filament extruder designs currently in use.

------------------------
RESULTS

The test showed it was feasible to use a tool of this design to make wax patterns. The most important thing to consider seems to be optimizing heat transfer from the needle to the wax, while minimizing heat loss due to movement of cool air through the needle. The thin-walled brass tubing is just barely acceptable for this purpose. The next version will use a material with higher thermal conductivity, such as thick-walled copper tubing. The heater should probably be located outside of the case. Possibly two heaters should be used - one for the needle and one to keep the wax molten inside the case.

------------------------
*Update March 6 2010: See this cool article on converting an aquarium pump to a vacuum pump garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/?p=109

This is my first attempt at a Sarrus linkage suitable for a Z axis. It has room for a skate bearing, 10-32 threaded rod, and 10-32 nut to drive it. In practice, this mechanism is not quite stiff enough for good printing, but it might be useful for other things.

The total range of movement is just over 100 mm.

This is Thing-a-Week #4, previous things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This is a small pan and tilt servo system for the Logitech C600 webcam.
It is designed for two Hitec HS-81 Servos

Wood screws may be useful to hold the 3D printed parts together.
iheartrobotics.com/2010/01/fastners-for-3d-printing-screw-it-well.html

A hook with a bearing to suspend a basket of plastic to feed a RepRap machine. Full details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/sky-hook.html

I had a spring loaded retractable measuring tape which stopped working. After trying to get it to work I figured I might as well take it apart. After all, a spring loaded retractable measuring tape that doesn't retract is just a bulky measuring tape. It turned out several small plastic components inside had broken and were now either so destroyed I couldn't measure/replicate them or were just plain missing.

Version 1: Uploaded 2010-02-02
makerblock.com/2010/02/retractable-tape-measure-reloaded/

Version 0: Uploaded 2010-01-30
makerblock.com/2010/01/new-print-retractable-measuring-tape/

For a larger picture and a little more detail, visit my blog at makerblock.com

First I designed a small flat open ended cylinder which would hold the metal spring. It had to have two notches - one notch to hold the end of the tape measure and another to hold the outer-most end of the metal spring.

Then I designed a plastic holder for the small flat cylinder to fit into. It has a small spindle/axle in the center with a notch for the interior end of the metal spring.

FAIR WARNING: The interior spindle snapped right off when I tried to assemble this. Thus, I had to improvise a little to put it together. If you look closely, you\'ll notice both the spindle and the interior edge of the larger part have a slight overhang to help keep the other parts in. I built these features in hoping that it would just hold itself together. In the end I just put two bolts through it to make it more permanent. That\'s why the picture you see has two M3x16 bolts/M3 nuts holding the interior part in place. It doesn\'t spin quite as freely as I\'d like - but it does work.

This was really just a way for me to fritter away some time and over-engineer something that wouldn\'t have even cost me $2 to replace entirely. If I were to design this from scratch I would build it to use a skate bearing inside, captive nut, and short bolt.

I've included the Sketchup files in case someone wants to take this further.

Parametric Idler Pulley created to make custom Idler Pulley for Mendel's 624 bearings instead of using mudguard washers. Can also make pulley's for any size ball bearing.