Howdy. I know you all yearn to wear something sweet, metal, and culled from the oceanic depths of the oilpunk masterpiece Bioshock. This is your brass opportunity as I've converted its officially kickass logo into a 3d file for which to use, abuse, and hold up pants. It's a belt buckle. The versions I've done are in bronze from a cnc cut wax model (carved with a 1/8in 15deg inc taper profile tool) and a Zcorp 3dprint. It's pretty fine on the detail end of things so you might want to scale up if you're gonna go for a FDM.

I also have to thank the lovely and talented Meredeth Wrinkle of TechShop fame for photographing the Zcorp version of this project and being an essential supporter. I couldn't be holding this lovely little trinket without her constant support.

This is the first item I created myself for my new RepRap machine, using CoCreate. As you can see it's a simple comb.

This is a reproduction of a "tea bowl" that I'm doing for an exhibition. I mean, I did a spoon thingiverse.com/thing:1109 , right, so a bowl was a natural progression. I don't claim it to be water-tight, but there are no actual holes and the mesh is manifold. It's quite large - 150mm diameter and 75mm high.

The neat bit though is that if you look at the bottom the edges hang over at more than 45 degrees. I found this was possible if you get it just right on circular objects as the nozzle tries to wrap the existing edges of the object with extruded filament as it orbits.

Credit: Bronwyn Holloway-Smith (http://bronwyn.co.nz) and Vik Olliver CC-BY-SA

Five equilateral triangular pyramids interlocking with each other.

A hook that you can clip onto then end of a horizontal surface, such as a tabletop, bookshelf, etc. to hang things on.

I'm using it for hanging a basket with filament on. I'm using Vik's Y-bearing holder to make sure that it can rotate (see thingiverse.com/thing:921 ). I put a loop of rope through the two holes that hang over this tabletop clip.

Version 2.3 has some improvements, the hook's lowest point is now nearest to the table. A cord will tend to rest there causing minimum torque on the hook-clip.
It is made stronger at the two 90 angles that have to withstand forces. This is a more efficient use of material and builds faster.
A hole under the hook where no material is required for an adequate strength of the hook.

Version 2.3_thin is simply for a thinner tabletop/shelf.

Ok, this is a tough one.

This treasure chest is printed in one piece!
You definitely should be good friends with your MakerBot when printing this. ABS warping is a big problem. The few lucky ones with PLA on their desk definitely have the advantage here...

Anyway, you might give it a shot.

As usual with my quirky objects, Skeinforge is moaning and groaning when processing it. But if you configure "Carve" to use "unproven meshes" and ignore all warnings, you should get a printable gcode file :)

The attached gcode is the one I used for printing the treasure chest on the photo. It's suitable for MakerBots with a .5mm nozzle.

There's also a short video on this on YouTube: youtube.com/watch?v=wtoLPj_YOkA

This is a handle for the Z-Crank ( thingiverse.com/thing:975 ).

This is my skull. I know it's not the first skull on Thingiverse, (see here thingiverse.com/thing:827) but I thought I'd back it up just the same, in case I needed another copy someday:)

I extracted the mesh from an MRI that I had done as part of a friend's research project at Princeton University (although I have had success getting MRIs from the doctors office too). The MRI comes as a hdr file, which is basically a stack of high dynamic range images of slices of my head. I used Osirix ( osirix-viewer.com/ ) a free, open-source viewer to read and convert the file, which I exported as an OBJ, and imported into Blender. There was a SIGNIFICANT amount of cleanup necessary, and lots of finessing of the mesh to make it watertight and manifold -- in order to reduce my work, I selected only the better half of the mesh, and mirrored it, so that's why it's erily symmetric. I swear I have a pretty normal looking head, even without editing.

Teeth proved a problem -- they have a different water content than bone, and didn't all get caught by the scan -- so I just left them out.

I also joined the mandible to the skull to facilitate printing. Otherwise, that joint gets really thin, and you would have to print out multiple parts.

I'm releasing this under a attrib, CC, share-alike license. I would love to see all kinds of weird stuff derived from it (even commercial stuff is OK) -- just drop me a line of you make something awesome!!

No, not that kind of hydroponic pot. This is just a little plastic tub with a mesh bottom that you fill with vermiculite, perlite, clay balls etc. and plant hydroponic plants in. The pots then go into 45mm or 55mm holes drilled in a piece of 100x50mm rectangular downpipe to form a [ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nutrient_film_technique ] Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) hydroponic system. I grow a lot of tomatoes, beans, lettuce, brassica, celery, basil etc. in my NFT runs but the pots keep on breaking.

Now I don't need to worry. Even if the plant bursts the pot, at the end of the growing season I'll just throw the whole lot in the compost heap and print another one. They should stack, so you can keep a few ready to hand. It's cool using your RepRap to help grow food!

Better Living with MakerBot, Episode 2
You probably all know this situation:
You're supposed to ref a soccer game in less than 1/2 an hour and you cannot find your whistle. You're screwed!

But from now on you're out of trouble: Fire up your trusty MakerBot and print a new whistle in 26 minutes!

This object prints the pea right inside the whistle. Since the pea is connected to the rest of the object only at one tiny point, it's quite easy to break it loose after printing with a small screw driver or tweezers.

I probably pushing luck a little bit with bridging the top layer. So far I printed the whistle twice without problems.

As always, I added the object as .obj file (wavefront), which can be imported into AOI and Blender.

The gcode file is the one I used to print the whistle on the image. The gcode file contains an experimental raft with additional "blobs" on the second (interface) layer.
You might want to generate your own gcode file with skeinforge settings, tested with your MakerBot. Be sure to setup Skeinforge to create an (almost) watertight object, since the whistle won't whistle if it's full of holes...

[Update]
I added a second version of the whistle. "Whistle_v2" is an attempt to fine tune the object a little bit. My brother (he's a pipe organ builder) gave me some tips how to optimize the whistles mouth. Whistle v2 should start whistle with less airflow than v1 and thus be (somewhat) less loud. I also downsized the pea a little bit and changed the shape of the lanyard loop.

Whistle v1 is still available for reference and also since it's more "tested"...

Since you blow the whistle with your mouth, be aware of possible problems concerning "food safety" of printed plastic. See the blog post "For foodies out there" ( blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/13/for-foodies-out-there/ ) for more information.

You've heard of Bokode web.media.mit.edu/~ankit/bokode/ , right? The long distance microscope that lets you see detailed barcodes and data with only a digital camera? The one that uses a tiny 3mm lenslet to display highly accurate position and distance information from several meters away?

Yeah. That one.