This is an add-on to the greatest helicopter toy I've ever played with: the UDI U816.

You can buy the copter on Amazon prime for $60:
amazon.com/UDI-Axis-Stablized-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B0095BXACK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359084783&sr=8-1&keywords=udi+u816

Or if you buy more direct ~$40: banggood.com/Wholesale-Udi-U816-2_4g-4ch-4-axis-Mini-Rc-Remote-Control-Ufo-360-Eversion-Helicopter-p-48619.html

And to support the development of new designs, I have started selling the completed thing on Tindie:
tindie.com/shops/CarryTheWhat/rc-quad-copter-3d-printed-frame/

It comes with a 2.4ghz radio transmitter, and a decent one at that. 2 batteries, extra blades... but a flimsy plastic circuit cover.

The quadcopter itself is about 30g, and about 7 inches from tip to tip.

The printed frame in it's current form is about 15g -- the quadcopter has plenty of surplus thrust to carry it. The extra inertia is actually pretty useful for keeping control.

I was unable, however, to successfully print any of the blades that have been uploaded...

In the process of designing a printable frame for a mini quad copter, I realized I needed a feature of OpenSCAD that I don't think was implemented yet. While I know this is not a perfect solution, it was a good enough hack for my needs.

Included is the example use case.

This is an extension from the popular octopus thick legs. We made room for a magnet to fit, such that it will be snug to your fridge.

It was made to fit with 1/2-Inch by 1/16-Inch Rare Earth Disc Magnets:
amazon.com/dp/B000YF92QY/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2C_SC_dp_1

This is the fully functional solder-free version of the snap-together mini lamp. Besides a 3D printer, all you need is some LEDs and some conductive thread like this: members.shaw.ca/ubik/thread/order.html

It's a work in progress because there are still some kinks to work out, and I'm not sure what LEDs I want to use yet.

I used v0.2 of the 3D-PCB library, which has tolerances calibrated for the Makerbot Replicator.

The "bulb" of this lamp is an array that can hold 6 LEDs, and it snaps into the peg that holds the lamp shade on.

Some of the arm pieces have an added peg so that the conductive thread can run down the arm to the base (on each side) without overlapping.

The base has been adapted to accommodate 2xAAA batteries and a toggle switch.

This model was made in blender, using the 3D-PCB openscad exports.

I used Emmett's rotating gear code from the heart gear, and mashed it up with the CT scanned skull. I tried a few orientations, I like this one the most because it splits down the middle of the face.

If you can't yet print, or don't want to for some reason, we'd be happy to print & ship it to you through our etsy! etsy.com/listing/104700095/skull-gift-3d-printed-rotating-skull

I took the companion cube with hearts, and made a keychain out of it, as requested through our Etsy.

The size of the cube is 3cm per side.

You can purchase a hard copy from our etsy:
etsy.com/listing/100904873/companion-cube-keychain-3cm

This is a bust template for faces generated for rapid prototyping by facegen.com software (note: requires a license to generate faces).

If you don't yet have a 3D printer, or otherwise would like me to build it for you, this item is also available on Etsy: etsy.com/listing/99380561/custom-portrait-statue-3d-printed-beta

The goal of this project is to enable the personal manufacturing of simple electronics, especially for Open Source Hardware -- with nothing except a 3D printer, your hands or equivalent, and the basic high-technology electronic components (capacitors, motors, transistors, etc -- but will eventually encompass ICs, microcontrollers etc). Instead of solder, wires, and breadboards, OpenSCAD generates a peg-board PCB and component holder, and a circuit can be hand-wound together with conductive thread.

This code base is intended to replace conventional etched PCBs, initially for very simple applications. Included is a basic feature set, described in the Instructions.

Detailed instructions for use can be found on instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/ , as part of the Make-It-Real Challenge (so your vote would be greatly appreciated!).

If you want to practice your trace wrapping, and would rather build something useful, I'd suggest building the LED Flashlight thingiverse.com/thing:22052 or Desk Lamp thingiverse.com/thing:27389 !

This is an example printed electronic, using the solder-free 3D-PCB library thingiverse.com/thing:21975

It is an LED flashlight, made entirely out of printed parts and 4 lengths of conductive thread, plus 2 batteries and 4 LEDs.

Detailed instructions for buildling this, as well as for using 3D-PCB in general: instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Circuit-Boards-for-solder-free-printab/ , as part of the Make-It-Real Challenge (so your vote would be greatly appreciated!).

Note: If you are thinking to build, I suggest first test-printing the electronics_top, along with a switch_toggle and a peg_cap. I haven't tested it on many printers, and these pieces have the finest tuned tolerances

I used Relet's openSCAD code to generate another burr puzzle, from this website: researchweb.watson.ibm.com/BurrPuzzles/Samples.html

The goal of this project is to enable the personal manufacturing of simple electronics, especially for Open Source Hardware -- with nothing except a 3D printer, your hands or equivalent, and the basic high-technology electronic components (capacitors, motors, transistors, etc -- but note that this will also include mass-produced microcontrollers and their shields!). Instead of solder, wires, and breadboards, OpenSCAD generates a peg-board PCB and component holder, and a circuit can be hand-wound together with conductive thread.

This code base is intended to replace conventional etched PCBs, initially for very simple applications. Included is a basic feature set, described in the Instructions. The pictures and uploaded STL files are for a simple circuit which demonstrates these features: a battery holder (I used 3 watch batteries instead of AAs to quickly and easily step up the voltage and save plastic and time), a momentary push-button, a toggle switch, and an LED holder.

So far I have printed a proof-of-concept on my Up! (pp3dp), and I've found best results with this type of conductive thread:
sparkfun.com/products/10118

Check out the instructions for details and next steps.

Edit 4/20/12: A customer through etsy requested a version with the arms closed -- so that file is uploaded now too!

Are you still there.

I found a portal turret model on Google sketchup warehouse:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=79e8c33cb58058acd01371e29b8b3832&prevstart=12

I adapted it to make it printable & ship-able.

There is no way for me to contact the original author about authorization.. and the terms are seemingly ambiguous for Google Warehouse, so I'm not sure if I got the license right.

If you don't have a printer yet, or don't feel like printing it, we'll ship you one through our etsy:
etsy.com/listing/90368229/3d-printed-portal-turret

Makers out there, you're welcome to do the same!

I took this wonderful brain slug: [ thingiverse.com/thing:11426 ], cleaned it up a bit, and added a slot for a standard hair clip. Now you can wear a brain slug in your hair!

> Today's mission is for all of you to go to the Brain Slug Planet, and just walk around not wearing a helmet.

Motivation: I constantly find myself in need of a small amount of light at will, and the cell phone doesn't always cut it. My goal is to build a small but powerful flashlight ring.

Details:
I've tried two switch mechanisms so far. The first one had the head slide laterally, perpendicular to the finger, but it wasn't quite comfortable. This present model slides instead forward and backward. This also is not ideal.. it requires both hands to turn on and off, and the top is prone to falling off. I think the next version will try to have a twisting activation instead.

Software:
Model was designed in openscadpy (first project, sorry for the poor state of the code): github.com/hmeyer/openscadpy

Hardware:
Model was printed on an up! printer ( pp3dp.com )

My intent is for this product to be Open Hardware, under the TAPR OHL: tapr.org/TAPR_Open_Hardware_License_v1.0.txt

Desktop lamp with my face on it! The face was generated using facegen with their automatic face modeler ( facegen.com ). Unfortunately, the license for the feature is pretty steep ($300). In full disclosure, it doesn't quite look like me.. but I'm also new to the tool.

Model was printed on an up! printer ( pp3dp.com )

My intent is for this product to be Open Hardware, under the TAPR OHL: tapr.org/TAPR_Open_Hardware_License_v1.0.txt

The conventional key ring is not very conducive to pockets. The plane of your keys is perpendicular to the plane of the ring, forming a shape that cannot lay flat. There is always some edge poking into your leg.

This is a work in progress, but the idea is a thin form-factor key holder capable of holding 3-4 keys. The thumb wheels swivel around and catch their respective key. A swivel in the opposite direction pulls the key back into the case.

You might have to adapt it to fit your keys.. Also, my original intent was for two house keys on one side and one large car key on the other.. as the model stands, some of the keys will catch on each other.


Software:
Model was designed in openscadpy (first project, sorry for the poor state of the code): github.com/hmeyer/openscadpy

Model was printed on up! pp3dp.com with the following settings:
quality: normal
part: 4 layers, hollow, 40 deg
support: 4 layers, 40 deg, 4 lines, 3mm2

Future work: It works pretty well for my house keys, but I'm still working on fitting my large car key.

My intent is for this product to be Open Hardware, under the TAPR OHL: tapr.org/TAPR_Open_Hardware_License_v1.0.txt

For folks who like hooping, this is a generic hula hoop model.

We've used it to make earrings, bracelets, and even finger hoops, which can be a lot of fun!

I added these hearts to the cube to make it easier to paint.