I started out simply wanting to print a giant bread tag for a friend. Little did I know that an entire taxonomy exists for the parasitoids known as Occlupanid (Occlu = to close, pan = bread).

The most thorough research into these organisms has been conducted by the Holotypic Occlupanid Research Group - horg.com/horg. Their work was even used in the report "Plastic bag clip discovered in partial colectomy accompanying proposal for phylogenic plastic bag clip classification" published in the BMJ Case Reports journal: casereports.bmj.com/content/2011/bcr.02.2011.3869.abstract.

While the SCAD file is parametric so far I have only designed (bred?) one example of the Toxodenta (curved teeth) order, based on an example I found in the wild which appears to conform to the classification of Palpatophora utiliformis - horg.com/horg/Palpatophora_utiliformis.htm.

I intend to extend the SCAD file to include examples of species from each order. I also encourage people to create their own variations and mutations. Let's see if we can get these creatures to evolve into something new! ;-)

This tool holder will mount in place on the Z platform in place of the extruder allowing you to cut shapes out of paper vinyl or other thin material without much effort. It does require a very level bed and I recommend cutting on a cut down cutting mat.

This was designed to hold a leading brand craft cutter's blade holder.

Turn you MakerBot into a "ShopSmith" type multi-tool!

Here are all the 3D printed parts for the RepRapPro Ltd version of Huxley. Despite what it says on the left, it was primarily created by Jean-Marc Giacalone. I added a few bits...

Please see my reason for making this thing here: thingiverse.com/thing:16662

I need the tap holder for rethreading holes after powder painting. That is why i made the handle thicker. For a drill holder it might be better with a thinner handle. Let me know if you want me to make one :)
The insert is drawn with a Ø6,1 hole.
I will also change that for you if needed.

INFO: I have measured some other taps at work today. They do not match the size of the cheap ones I use at home.
So please check if the ones here will match your tap.

I will post new inserts soon.

a twisted triangular shaped vase

inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:12120 and thingiverse.com/thing:6465 i decided to try myself at a design for a vase.

made with 3dsmax, height ~90mm

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

This is the Quantum ORD Bot. It is 3D printer mech platform made from MakerSlide linear bearing. It is extremly ridged and very easy to build. The design can easily be scaled in X,Y and/or Z by simply changing the Makerslide lengths plus belt and leadscrew lengths. This is the mini or 'Quantum' version. The parts other than MakerSlide are either off the shelf standard items or easily fabricate with a laser cutter, 3D printer or CNC router. There is a blog post giving a lot more detail.

buildlog.net/blog/2012/01/the-quantum-ord-bot/

As a reference point, this size uses less than $15 worth of Makerslide extrusion. You also need about $45 worth of MakerSlide wheels, spacers, etc. The Makerslide parts are available at the MakerSlide store. Be aware the rail is released in weekly 'production batches' and sells out very quickly. It is 'restocked' on weekly basis.

I have attached the complete 3D design in STEP format plus a DXF of the flat parts. If I can generate enough interest, I may have about 50 sets of parts fabricated and offer kits. That would be for the mechatronics platform only. The extruder, electronics, etc would not be included.

Why spend $200 for a set of printed parts when you can have everything you see here, including motors, belts, pulleys for about $200?

Planned changes.
1. I plan to change the crossbar handle thing to an extrusion to make it more scalable.
2. The 'quantum' design currently uses NEMA14 motors. I plan to tweak the parts to be compatible with NEMA17. This just adds a second pattern to some parts.

Here by popular request, is the venerable Gothic Cathedral Playset as a single object. Sized suitably for printing on a Replicator build platform.

Its smaller than the original. But with that same crunchy medieval flavour. For extra fun, try printing in PLA.

Forward Brave Astronauts!

Journey into the farthest reaches of the Cosmos and be among the first humans to see the wonders of our Thingiverse.

Your daring MakerBot crew risks all for science, adventure, and our distributed-manufacturing future!

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

I liked jetty's new buttons, but I thought the X's looked too much like H's, and I like symbols better anyway, so this is the result.

Pimp your bot ! These instructions detail how to build software controllable RGB Mood Lighting for your ToM. The mood light is controllable via a new menu on the Gen 4 LCD Interface or via GCodes in ReplicatorG.

Your bot can now show it's build status via the color of the mood light.

Video (showing functionality):
youtube.com/watch?v=g3D0ScY6-dg
Video (mood light to music):
youtube.com/watch?v=FQDFPfnHu9o

Additionally, you can set your own RGB color, pick from a predefined list. Also you can pick animated color scenes, for example a Thunderstorm complete with Lightning flashes or signal S.O.S.

This is a beginners level project, with a tiny bit of soldering, and is designed for ToM Motherboard V2.4 (the version currently shipping).

Required parts are a BlinkM MaxM, RGB Led Strip, a couple of resistors and some bits and pieces you likely have lying around. (full parts list in the pdf).

You'll also need:

- The new Gen 4 Firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380
- BlinkM MaxM Holder: thingiverse.com/thing:15374

A Japanese-style spherical ice mold, as suggested by youtube.com/watch?v=cuwJEN3VG-Y and documented at blog.ussjoin.com/2012/01/making-the-mold.html. Made from aluminum, you just heat it under running water, then insert a block of ice: it simultaneously melts and freezes the ice to form a perfect, seamless sphere.

A comfy place to rest your head after a hard day in space. 1:18 scale.

I have made some small design adjustments since printing the prototype shown on this page, reducing height by about 8mm and improving stack-ability.

This is partly a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:14208 (which is a variant of the printrbot). I recommend the printrbot variant on Thingiverse (the link above), as it's a nice and compact design. The files required from the above design are slightly modified and are provided here thingiverse.com/thing:15634 (separately due to GPL licensing of the original parts). The x-carriage can be used straight from the original design, but change the rod size to 8mm.

On this design, the smooth rod has been changed to be on the outside, and the frame uses an aluminium sheet instead of rods. I'm still calling it a reprap, as it relies on lots of printed parts to be operational.

The z-belt has been replaced by a printed rack, which partly based on thingiverse.com/thing:11642 and inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:6011 and thingiverse.com/thing:14537. The x-axis still uses a belt, and a printed pulley. I doubt the Y-axis rack is better than a belt, but it remains to be seen. The design supports a printrbot-type Y-belt if you want to use that instead.

I've tried to make this printer really small, and the print area is too small right now to be usable. I either have to mount the extruder 90 degrees to what it is now (might be the simplest), use a bowden extruder, or use an entirely new not yet invented extruder, I'm aiming for a print area of about 120 mm, which should be possible. This is the main thing I have to fix before this printer is good enough. I haven't printed with it yet, but it feels very stable and I think it'll do well.

The bot is 250 mm wide, but could of course be made wider. The stepper for the x-axis (printrbot-variant design) goes outside 'the box' (alu sheet). I've been toying with the idea of making a different x-axis end which keeps the extruder inside 'the box', for example by turning it 90 degrees and having it upside down like this: thingiverse.com/image:96329

The bars are 8mm. I use NEMA17 for the z-axis and NEMA17 for the extruder, and NEMA14 for the X and Y axis. The printrbot variant files can be edited to use NEMA17 all over instead if you wish. If you use his files, you'll need to fix the distance between the smooth and threaded Z rods also. Mine are 27 mm apart, between the centers.

It uses LM8UU bearings. The base that holds the bearings for the Y-rods is a bit weak around the bearings and needs a redesign. But I lost the source file and haven't had time to fix it yet. Will do if there is demand.

The rack-gear made using thingiverse.com/thing:3575. Note that this library is LGPL, but I have taken the liberty of posting the part here. Consider it distributed under LGPL.

As a coupling for the z-axis I'm using thingiverse.com/thing:11220 without any changes. I also use it on my prusa, and it works great, reducing z-wobble.

One possible improvement to this design is to not print the full height of plastic for the z-height, allowing the x-end to go a bit further down (it's being stopped when the nut-holder hits the coupling).

I've made various other test designs, including one without the alu sheet that uses plastic instead: thingiverse.com/image:95169 . I have also made one with two bars on each side of the z-stepper instead of on the outside, but dropped that idea. thingiverse.com/image:98180 (I don't really need two bars on each end. One should have been enough.)

I'm looking at it now and think I could add another 2 cm build area (1 cm each side) by doing this. The reason I didn't was I then had to design the top parts myself instead of using the printrbot variant.

There is a video of it moving at: youtu.be/IaLl8jtqlT8

You can of course use other things than an aluminium sheet. Other metals, but you can probably use a wooden structure also. The printrbot concept seems ok for making a repstrap without many plastic parts, if you don't have a friend who can help you with printing the plastic.

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot or lcd.

This firmware took 1 month to write and is time I've donated to make the Gen 4 LCD Interface what it should have been.

Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.

This is a major Motherboard firmware upgrade for the Gen 4 LCD Interface, to enable true standalone operation.

Supports: ThingOMatic, Cupcake, Reprap and Others.

An older video showing some of the features in V1.0: youtube.com/watch?v=ONPvZaEAoBQ

** NEW ** Firmware Manual: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware

This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: extruder control, preheat, profiles, calibration, multicolored printing, mood light, buzzer and build time estimation.

Feature list: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc3

Requirements: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc1

Latest Changes: (Version 2.5 - 01/25/12): wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc33

Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.

Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

This is a quick perl script to scan through a gcode file and figure out how much filament will be required.
It reads all of the "E" moves and adds them up each time they get reset to 0.
This will only work with absolute moves, not relative moves.

I did a 5 hour print and weighed it. The script said it should way 48.167 g. My kitchen scale said it weight 50 g.
Pretty good!

The filament im using varies in diameter from 1.65mm to 1.85mm. I made this to auto compensate for the diameter change.

Want to make your own clothes? Have a Makerbot? :)

This is a design from a chilean designer called Mauricio Rojas, design is called "Telar para Valentina". I (my makerbot) made the plastic parts. This is a work in progress (soon I will add the details for the wood)

I used aprox 1 lb. of white abs 3 mm plastic (pieces printed in 30% fill). About 4 days of printing (20 hours). The big parts (regletal.stl) require a very nice calibrated machine, this is why I used: thingiverse.com/thing:14174 to achieve outstanding quality!

Based on the following design quantumbalancing.com/images/goldenmeangauge.jpg

When searching for a design I also came across those, which look much nicer :
starbond-europa.de/images/aE2.JPG
urcan.deviantart.com/art/Golden-Ratio-calipers-v-1-1-132825076
urcan.deviantart.com/gallery/?offset=24#/d2730x3
etsy.com/listing/70936011/golden-section-calipers

Adapter to use Pentax K mount lenses with a Micro Four Thirds camera.

Print information: eMaker Huxley, supply3dpla.com PLA at 0.2mm layers

This is a card holder for settlers of catan gamecards, 54x80mm
Keeps the cards from going all over the place.

Version 4 now with the patented "I just take that last card"-cut :)

Gadget freaks need batteries... Lots of batteries!

So the sensible thing to do is to use a rechargeable batteries and to keep a stock of charged batteries ready for action.

If you like me keep your charged batteries in a drawer or box, you will know that they roll around, short one another out and of course you never have any idea as to which batteries have been charged first and last. Add in a few other items, i.e. a set of keys or two, an old spare mobile phone and charger and a few favourite take-out menus and finding those batteries during for instance a power cut becomes problematic also.

I was not happy with this and put my mind to coming up with a solution. Well here it is...

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser will create a vertical storage solution for all your cylindrical battery storage needs. It contains dimensions to create AA and AAA sized dispensers but as it is near fully parametric, you can create in theory a dispenser for just about any cylindrical battery. Limitations of your 3d Printer though are likely to restrict you to smaller battery sizes.

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser prints in two halves to make it as easy as possible to print (little to no overhangs). I found the best results were to use 50% infill and 3 additional shells on my Prusa using PLA, YMMV.

The Openscad file will generate several different styles of dispenser depending on the options you pick:

1. The simplest design that comprises just two runners. This was my original design and I have printed it. It works well enough, but I found it to be a little flimsy when secured to a vertical surface.

2. The tabbed version (main photo) which is the version I decided on using for my own battery dispensers. This is has nice broad mounting tabs at the rear of the dispenser that can be sized to match double sided sticky foam. Perfect for mounting on the inside of cupboards etc.

3. The mounting plate version (untested). This version has a mounting plate that is split into two halves, Theoretically, it should make it easier to space the two halves of the dispenser to each other but it uses more plastic and I don't think its as handsome as the others

4. Spare runners. (unfinished) These are functional, but only match the simplest design of dispenser. As I can get a reasonably sized dispenser to print on my Prusa (big enough to hold 8 AA batteries)I don't really need this now. I left it in as an option though.

5. Calibration piece. There is also an option to create a small segment of one half of the dispenser. Print this to double check that the dimensions you set print well on your printer

There are also options to add mounting holes if you are using either the tabbed or back-plated styles of dispenser. The mounting holes are nominal values right now, so you will have to set the variables to values that match your screw dimensions and printer.

I am marking this item as finished as it exceeds all my cylindrical battery vertical storage requirements but you may have other improvements you wish to make. If so I apologise for the code, I am positive it could be better optimised.

I present to you, the RepRap tie!

Update 12.30.2011: Added minecraft stl one one 20x20cm build plate and individual pieces in zip file. Yet untested! Don't know how well the holes will print when laying flat, please leave feedback if you try.

Update 12.30.2011: Added a stl file of a tie made from a stl file. Check out tie_stl.zip for source code. Not yet printed!

For years people have made ties out of wood, and I adopted the principle for 3d printing. Could it be a world first?

The basic idea is to take a 3d model, cut holes in it for string and then cut it into smaller pieces so the tie will bend.

I'm not overly satisfied with how the ties sits around the neck, perhaps someone has an idea for a better solution?

Also, any special ideas for a tie, just make a comment and I'll give it a go. :)

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

I really love my heated build platform with an aluminum top covered with Kapton tape! It's an awesome way to go, but I REALLY miss the automated build platform for repetitive, decorative and small parts. I miss the fun of watching a part dropping on my desk. The sadness of your trusty ABP sitting on a shelf... it's just not right.

This thing makes it right again, no tools, just unplug and press the release and in 20 seconds you've swapped out the HBP with an ABP! Another benefit is that you can pop out a platform to service it, i.e. put new tape or fix a belt.

I've designed this upgrade to be completely non destructive, a bolt in replacement. You won't loose any build area, it replaces the undercarriage of both platforms.

I wanted a nice looking, enclosed and reliable 3D printer with great build quality and large envelope. The result: Part-Y!

The frame consists of L-shaped aluminium profiles, covered in clear plexiglass with vinyldecals designed by my sister. The printer is completely enclosed with charcoal filters on the air outlet to get rid of fumes.

All axes are constructed with high quality professional linear guides. The z axis was originally designed with rods and linear bearings, but I bought the cheapest bearings on ebay and the quality was really bad.

The extruder is a Makerbot mk7 for 1.75mm filament, choosen for it's compact size, high reliability and great precision.

Current build envelope is limited by the area of the heated bed to 210x210x200 mm, the x and y axes are however capable of 240mm movement.

Print-Y is controlled by a Sanguinololu and powered by an internal 400W PSU.

I'll add more details with BOM aso later if someone is interested.

Bad quality video: youtube.com/watch?v=qF7fGArkb1c

My fiancée has a Altoid tin for all her knitting tools... Portable and usefull.
Unfortunaly, the cable needles won't fit nicely. So I printed one! And its much cheaper, too.

I traced a 5mm cable needle, rescaled so it's 3mm, and then shortened it a little.


°Altoids is a registered trademark of Wrigley, yum!

I have a job interview coming up in a few days and I can never find a tie clip when I need one. Instead of investing a over 10 dollars for something I'll probably loose, I instead spent about 20 minutes with tinkercad and came up with this.

Instead of holes, you could go with a different type of negative space design, I just wanted something simple that would give me a decent print.

My son is fond of his scotch tape. He wanted a dispenser since the refills didn't fit in his old one.

The openscad file is somewhat parametric but is untested it with any other settings.

It uses syvwlch's awesome thread library ( thingiverse.com/thing:8793 )
So, you'll need that if you want to use the scad file.

Is your roll of super-wide Kapton tape lounging around, taking up space? Put it to work!

This is the first design of my KaptonCaddy! Just place your roll of tape on the base, and slide in the caddy core. It snaps together and becomes a handy carrying-case for your allen wrenches, nuts, bolts and other sundries. It has two swivel drawers, holes for tools and a basin up-top for bigger stuff.

UPDATE V1.1!

The base is now part of the body. The tape roll now acts as a sleeve to hide the drawers. If you store any over-sized things in the top (like calipers) you may need to remove them to lift the roll off.

Test print #2 on its way!

Enjoy!