After looking around the MTBS3D Forums I stumbled across a design of a 3D printable mask to allow you to use your Android phone as a VR 3D HMD. (Original can be found here: durovis.com/index.html).

I liked the idea behind this but after printing the actual device there was a few bits that I didn't get on with so decided to start playing with Google sketchup to come up with my own version.

I printed this out on a RepRap so should print out fine on any 3d printer. You can then use the native Android Demos from the OpenDive website. Or you canuse the Vireio Perception drivers along with FreePIE and Splashtop to stream PC games to your phone in 3D with headtracking (This is not as good as a proper HMD such as the Oculus Rift but it does work!!)

This was designed to be used with my Samsung Galaxy S4 phone. But it should work with any Android Smartphone of a similar size.

This Belt Tensioner can be adjusted with a set hex screw and consists of two parts. Designed for the Ultimaker, but this thing should work on other machines/belts too.

Features:

- adjustable
- small, doesn't block mechanics
- you only need a M4 set screw for assembly

Here is a fully functional, printable, oscillating steam engine.

I started first building a horizontal double action steam engine (you can see it in the background of the video link below,) but while working out some bugs on that one, I decided to knock this one out quickly and post it first.

You can see a video of it in action here youtube.com/watch?v=BIfqFAG5olU&feature=share

I will call this engine the Mark I, just in case I build an enhanced model down the line.

I made this for a friends telescope set-up to enable him to attach little mirrors and adjust their angle.

Could also be used to mount a variety of components, cameras, speakers, etc.

gyrobot.co.uk
facebook.com/gyrobotuk

rolling-well object.
Video can be seen at:http://youtu.be/MKfxOOvUmfY
designed by Takashi IFUJI
2010

Broke apart the single file PDF into separate SVG and DXF format files, one for each type of material to be lasercut.

WARNING: I have not checked or cut any of these files myself, use at your own risk.

A butterfly decoration designed for my daughters bedroom.
Created in Inkscape and OpenSCAD. Printed on a Replicator2 using medium settings.

The wings were designed separate from the body with the idea they could be customised or attached at different angles. The included .stl file is simply one piece to get me started and test the printing.

This is an updated remix of the Single Use Model Rocket (see thingiverse.com/thing:87495 ). This version has a longer, solid nose to shift the center of gravity forward, and slightly longer fins, to pull the center of pressure backwards.

Prints as a single intact object.

Rather than spend time printing springs for a project, I made this little mold to make them out of raw 3mm PLA filament. It measures 3/4" by 3" tall. Since there are no shear planes in this twisted filament, the springs it creates will be a lot tougher than anything printed.

I think this concept could be used to produce torsion springs as well as conical compression springs with different molds.

If you wrapped the filament around a dowel with the sides of the filament touching, you could make an extension spring instead of a compression spring.

We modified design of our previous publish: hydropw1 - thingiverse.com/thing:34813
We reduce stainless steel use and increase nylon 3D printing parts.

We hope you to improve our design.
Thanks!
More information: capsellab.com/

I've been developing ways to use 3d powder printing to make air powered robots that have no hard moving parts. Using procedural modeling I can create rapid iterations, incremental designs, and inexpensive prototypes with a simple set of tools. Find more details at - bit.ly/softrobots

You can see video of this design in action here - youtube.com/watch?v=EkPeF-sYQ-0

This is an early prototype of a trefoil tentacle. There are three hollow ribbed volumes inside this tentacle that control its motion. It is controlled through a Processing interface and an Arduino switching a bank of solenoid valves using a simple Darlington transistor. You can grab the code here - forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36579

This whole project has been made possible by the folks over at viridis3d.com especially Jim Bredt. They've been very generous in letting me use their machines and helping me figure out solutions to the material science challenges involved in this kind of work. They're awesome.

I designed this as a diameter reducer for a friend's telescope. The idea was to produce a self centering bush that will convert Dia 2" to Dia 1.25".
Both diameters are purposly printed tight which allows the flexible vanes to compress and apply an even self centering force all around the bore/shaft. Important in the telescope world to keep things centred and collimated.

Could also be an airless tyre design (for RC) if printed with a flexible filament

Suitable for use as a tolerance ring.

gyrobot.co.uk
facebook.com/gyrobotuk

The 3rd version of my vibration damper. It is much easier to assemble than v2. It is as strong, as effective and 2 parts instead of 5.

I have now added a jumbo version (idea of cain666). The springs are twice as wide so should be able to support twice as much weight. The top is now above the springs too. This makes it easier to use these with different machines. I have also added a version of each with a 3mm hole for mounting (idea of SkiFF). I have not printed these yet but they should be fine.

Enjoy and please comment.

This project looks at how to combine the immense strength of carbon fibre, with the design versatility of 3-d printing. The reinforcing methods described here are quite simple and require no equipment or experience.

Unidirectional carbon epoxy is one of the strongest structural materials, and has a tensile strength of about 150Kg per sq mm.

Want more power?
Your in a storm... All manner of power gone.. You need to make a call.. you turn to your minty boost....

Where is it? well now its bright freeken neon green so it's not like you will misplace it..

You pick it up....
Old minty. $%@#$%@#$ the batterys are dead in this also...

Super Minty: I love you minty you saved me once again....

I hope you enjoyed my story ;)



Video Intro
youtube.com/watch?v=zIBE5aoySKk



Disclaimer: Minty has always got hot in the past.. The manner of how hot will not change but make sure your wires do not touch the chip.. use common sense when tucking the wires into this case.


Making the PLA spike for the hindge
youtube.com/watch?v=WqNxYHWpYko

Here are some regular patterns to be used as infill and internal structure for 3d models using OpenSCAD.

Version 1: Cone tubes
This structure consist of separate tubes with double cones. The tubes are arranged rectangular.

Version 2: Sphere tubes
This structure consist of separate tubes with spheres. The tubes are arranged hexagonal. The calculation is time intensive.

Version 3: Octahedrons
My favorite structure consist of linked octahedrons. The octahedrons are arranged rectangular. The wall size is at minimum.

Nautilus gears based on logarithmic spirals. The gear profiles were generated using this Maple script for which full credit goes to the original author:
maplesoft.com/applications/view.aspx?SID=95483&view=html&L=G

Rendered animation of the gears: youtube.com/watch?v=dtkEyZwuwH4

I'm not going to upload the SolidWorks file because it is frankly a mess of different experimentation, but I uploaded the DXF which should be easy enough to modify with most CAD software.

Update: No more breaking pins!

I've replaced the pins with a simple press fit design. Print two of the Connector Bar v2 or the Curved Connector Bar v2 (same idea, just curved for aesthetics) and snap them together! On a well calibrated printer they should snap together easily and hold tightly with friction.

If they aren't sticking together just add a drop of glue! Warning, these bars are one time use, they will be very hard to pull apart without breaking the pin.

I will keep the original bars on for reference.

Easy to print Wobbler (Ring Roller).

Do you use Altoids Tins to store things? Want to keep them in a neat little rack system? You can stack the racks pretty much however you want. Put them on your desk, egg-crate style, or mount them to a wall, cubby-hole style. I tried to make this sturdy enough to assemble while using as little plastic as possible (and no support needed).

A giant evolution of my monarch glider with a full, low profile airfoil. Flies very well, best with a rubber strap launch. About 8 Meters of 3mm ABS to build.

For tips on printing these, drop by my blog at bogon-flux.blogspot.com

Modified iconic lizard by M. C. Escher in 3 dimensions. The top is drafted at 60° to create artistic striations of the profile when printed with a standard .010 inch per layer FDM printer. The individual pieces interconnect on a 1 inch hexagonal pattern. I find this to be a good example of the accuracy and ressolution of these printers. The parts are line to line and snap together nicely. X and Y coordinates show the limit of resolution and the Z coordinate shows the comparative coarseness of detail in that axis.

This is my first upload of a dice tower. It should work with most reasonably sized dice.

I'll be adding a tray for the dice to roll into and a customizable version of this in the next few days.

v1.1: The output ramp angle is steeper.

The stock Ultimaker is a great 3d printer which uses PLA by default as the print material. I like it, but I like ABS much more. Without a heated bed it's nearly impossible to get good printing results when using ABS - a heat bed is a must. To get even better results with ABS it's a good idea to enclose the entire build area to get higher and stabilized temperatures. A heat chamber is not nessasry, but when you want to go *big* with your models then it truly helps getting good print results with ABS.

My Ultimaker now features:

- heated + illuminated build platform
- heated + illuminated build chamber
- permanent print plate for ABS and PLA
- direct drive system
- active cooled stepper motors
- dual-fan setups for hot-end, UM pcb, and second psu
- modified H3 extruder
- capability to load big 2.2 kg spools
- hardware switches for hot-end, heat bed, cooling and light
- UltiController
- slightly improved build room (over 200 cm³ more build space)
and more...

This project is finished, but I still see some room for improvements, e. g. a dualstrusion setup. Maybe also some PAINT for the wood panels. :-) Also some minor improvements I'll install in the next few weeks.

Almost all of the white parts you see in the pictures are printed in ABS. Some of them are already uploaded to my things collection. The rest will follow soon (also the stickers on the front and right side).

If you have feedback for this 'thing' please don't hesitate to comment or write a message to me. Thanks.

A set of 3D print profiles for MakerBot Slicer in MakerWare. The purpose is to easily visualise how dense the following different infill percentages

- No roof layer - 0% infill
- No roof layer - 5% infill
- No roof layer - 10% infill
- No roof layer - 15% infill
- No roof layer - 25% infill
- No roof layer - 50% infill
- No roof layer - 100% infill

The 3D model is simply a scaled-up (3 mm) version of the built-in large helper disk in MakerWare. (http://www.makerbot.com/makerware)

We attached the x3g print files which you can copy to an SD card and 3D print with PLA plastic on a MakerBot Replicator 2 3D printer.

The ready-made 3D print profiles are adapted in MakerBot Slicer so that no roof is made. This leaves the top open and exposes the infill.

To achieve a clear visualisation the model was made of two contrasting plastic colours.

- youtube.com/watch?v=Fhv2TvBUyQs

Put your thumb and index finger in two opposing holes and give the top a twirl to get it started. The top can spin for well over a minute with a good start.

This is a lightweight dodecahedron made from triangular trusses.

The model pictured is 166 grams, made with "long" trusses on the "medium" setting in MakerWare (.27mm) with 3 shells. I printed the on my Rep2 with Sailfish firmware.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodecahedron

Purchase one here: ebay.de/itm/MaxGlide-3d-Printed-Parts-/281106091934

I wanted to have a glidecam, but was not fully satisfied with the already available glidecam designs. They were too complex, needed to many not-printable parts, or even not-shelf parts.

This design uses a minimum of non-printable parts like screws and nuts. You don't need to solder, or weld any part for this design. It is assembled fast and most of the work is done by your 3d printer.

The system gives me very stable results. I was blown away after reviewing the first video test. The performance I think is just beautiful. Unfortunately I can't compare it to a professional glidecam. If you have one please tell us which one performs better!

You will quickly get the hang of how to use the glidecam correctly and once you do it is like moving your camera with a dolly.
Test Video: youtube.com/watch?v=d4ftbZH9Gw8

You can see a cost estimation in the attached excel sheet. My overall cost was 35€. Try to beat that!

-- Update --
I replaced the bottle as a counterweight and added 42 washers on the weight rig instead. Overall this increased the cost to 46€.

- Modeled in Blender. The source file is attached.

This is a sneak preview of my derivative of a Filament Extruder. The focus is on trying to print as many parts as possible.
This thing is part of my final thesis in my mechanical engineering degree. Once finished all printed files and drawings will be published (if I get the OK from my University).
First tests are promising but a few things still need to be modified.
_____________________________________________________
UPDATE,

I have got the OK to upload the drawings and other files needed to make this Extruder to the Universities' website. Not sure if in future I may upload the files to Thingiverse, but for now you can see most of the files here:

pe.mw.tum.de/lehrstuhl/mitarbeiter/konstruktionszeichnungen-repraps-1/konstruktionszeichnungen-repraps/

The list of files there isn't yet complete but I am working towards that. If I find time I may add a BOM and instructions as well, but for now I am very busy writing my thesis.

Newest tests are very promising in regards to consistent Diameter. Currently its 2.9mm so the Die diameter may be increased a tiny bit. Very little diameter variations can be measured at the moment. Any current variations are due to manipulation of the not yet solid filament.

Biggest drawback at the moment is the extrusion speed, which is still rather slow, but could easily be increased with a bigger motor. At the moment the motor spins at 35RPM and is extruding ABOUT 4cm per minute.

Feel free to ask questions in the comment section, if I have time I will try to answer these as soon as possible.

Thanks for the great feedback so far.

VertiBOT is an educational project to investigate and understand sensor fusion using kalman and complementary filter algorithm and PID control in an unstable system.

VertiBOT is an inverted pendulum platform that remains balanced by means of two tiny motors, located in the bottom of the structure. The battery is attached in the top of the main body, while the electronics board is located near the rotation axis.
The feedback signal is provided by an IMU 6Dof composed by an accelerometer and a gyro. One ATmega 328 microcontroller execute the main loop every 10 milliseconds. A wireless communication over bluetooth is used to tune and check the signal response in a Graphical User Interface software.

Video: youtu.be/A5KtT4GVpx8
Useful info, schematic and code available: wp.me/p22sj0-fT

Greatings from germany :) This is my first work. Simple but helpful.

Many little PLA garbage... i hate it i hate it i hate it. Every day i must pull it out from the bottom of my Ultimaker. Now i can clean my printbed without staining the printer.