Want to make your own clothes? Have a Makerbot? :)

This is a design from a chilean designer called Mauricio Rojas, design is called "Telar para Valentina". I (my makerbot) made the plastic parts. This is a work in progress (soon I will add the details for the wood)

I used aprox 1 lb. of white abs 3 mm plastic (pieces printed in 30% fill). About 4 days of printing (20 hours). The big parts (regletal.stl) require a very nice calibrated machine, this is why I used: thingiverse.com/thing:14174 to achieve outstanding quality!

This is a fully printable mobile robot I designed and built last year. However, it wasn't very useful until Julián Marín Mato added some electronics and wrote some code to control it with a gamepad. Now that we can say it's finally 100% functional, we'd love you to play around with one too!

To see it in action, check out this video: youtube.com/watch?v=54MXA22bOmQ

There are, of course, things to be improved: using more powerful servos, strengthening some parts, adding wireless comms, etc. All that will come in the (near?) future.

I started working on this before arkatipe uploaded his spike with threads. This is the difference(); of his spike and my 2L bottle threads: thingiverse.com/thing:10489

This piece is designed to have 3mm dia magnets embedded in its side. When several are printed they can be assembled into a gyroid shape.

The sample was printed in a Stratasys BST-768. I'm not really sure how this would go on a MakerBot.

A box where the lid arms clamp down to hold it in place when the knob is turned.

This is a heavily cleaned & modified version of artur83's Penrose Triangle, which was a great design however not printable.

It is now enlarged (longest dimension 99.97mm) and printable on almost any FDM printer without requiring support. Walls have been thickened at the bottom to ensure a secure footing and to minimise excess overhang angles.

Best viewed with one eye closed - looking at it with 2 eyes almost ruins the illusion :)

This is a Geohashing coin.

I drew the logo based on dawidi's version. My work is in the public domain, however there may be some restrictions on the geohashing logo itself.

See the official page for details: bit.ly/ghcoin

A dodecahedron the size of an ornament, that comes in many pieces.

This piece uses snaps slightly smaller than thingiverse.com/thing:5121. I believe if you scale up the design by 65/50 it will be compatible with 5121. Presently, its is "compatible enough", in that the snaps work and you can kind of make a icosadodecahedron, but nothing else really works. Sorry this is vague, I temporarily misplaced the design files. Will dig them up when I get a moment.

This thing includes a revised parametric script for generating polygonal facets for use in polyhedra. Several possible facets have been rendered. I know that the triangular, square, and pentagonal facets presented here are sufficient for building a wide range of shapes.

Thing thingiverse.com/thing:5028 extends this set with more types of facets, including spoke-like and polygonal facets for all shapes.

I've been wanting to create a very generic snap-together set of forms for MakerBot for some time. It would be awesome to have an algorithm that generates a queue of forms to slowly grow a very large procedurally generated object.

This is a revision of things thingiverse.com/thing:4893 and thingiverse.com/thing:4899, and an attempt to create a compatible set of snap-together primitives for building geometric forms. Thing 4893 set too large a scale to print pentagonal facets. Thing 4899 had a mathematical error which caused the different faces to be incompatible. This revision corrects that error.

A simple parametric wrench, for when you find that you really could use a 5.5 mm wrench, and don't have one. (An M3 nut is 5.5mm.)

I need battery-compartments in various sizes for my projects, so i made a
openscad file that generates them for me. Just enter the battery type (AA, AAA, C or D)
and the number of batteries you need. Export the stl file and add it to your project or print it as a standalone box. The only thing thats needed (besides batteries) are litte metall stripes for the contacts.

local-guru.net/blog/2010/12/06/generative-battery-compartment

In the book -the Da Vinci Code- a cryptex plays an important role. The cryptex is a cylinder with an important document in it, protected by a code word which can be set by turning rings around the cylinder. This thing contains the files to print the parts which make a fully functional cryptex which can be printed on a 3D printer.

Three other cryptex designs are on thingiverse: thingiverse.com/thing:1751, thingiverse.com/thing:2695, thingiverse.com/thing:2708, but this design was started independently based on ideas found in instructables.com. The other thingiverse designs do not contain pictures and seem to have some design issues which probably means they were not completely finished.

A short video showing this cryptex in operation can be found on youtube: youtube.com/watch?v=BjUNWvj0Q68

The printer used is my repstrap printer which is documented in the blog: pasutx.blogspot.com

Print a box to hold a given number of items of a specified size.

Git repository: github.com/l0b0/parametric-box

Version 2 contains the QR code embedded in the back plate. This is a demo of github.com/l0b0/qr2scad, which was slapped together today to enable this sort of thing dynamically.

If someone sees the QR code on your thing in real life, they can find the design and make their own copies with just a photo of it. Theoretically, you could even assign this job to a machine, looking around the web (or your tool box) for things that can be duplicated.

Another possibility would be to encode the .scad file in a QR code (after using github.com/l0b0/OpenSCAD-Minimizer) and include that on the model. Nicely Von Neumann-friendly :)

Very cool idea (not mine it was posted as a competition idea by Everythingmechanical blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/makerbot_giveaway.html)

Seemed easy enough to make a simple one so here it is.

2 part inner tube 2 part outer tube and a tumbler (you need 5 to complete assembly)

I've included the SKP file for those interested.

I'm still very new to 3d modeling and sketchup (learned a lot this past couple of weeks tho) so my images are still pretty ordinary.

If I get the chance I'll come back and do an exploded image to show assembly a little bit more clearly.

I assumed that glue could be used to attach the end caps to the inner and outer tubes but it would not take much to put in a small hold and use a screw (allowing the tumblers to be changed if wanted ( or taken apart of the combination is forgotten)

obvious improvements would be to alter the tumbler design so the actual value for each tumbler could be changed, etc.

I can see a few ways this might be done but none I'm terribly happy with right now.

UPDATE:
Plate 5 v1.1
This is a modified tumbler with many pick groves to make it harder to use machine tolerance issues to determine the combination.

Plate 5 v1.2
This is a modified tumbler in 2 parts enabling the tumbler to be "re-configured" to change the values.

A Magic Puzzle Cube.

The cube in the thumbnail is printed by Robo thingiverse.com/Robo . Thank you very much Robo! See comments for details.

I don't have my own printer, yet, so I'm not able to test this model myself. Feel free to modify anything so we can have a printable, working cube.

When the cube is functioning mechanically, perhaps we can distinguish between the sides without colors? See corner_color for an example.

My 3D background is from image and animation rendering, where it's important to maintain quads and avoid many edges meeting in a vertex. I don't know if it matters much in 3D printing? The flat sides on the pieces are 20 Wings unit wide/high/deep, which should equal to 20mm.

EDIT: I split the side and the corner (diagonally) in two parts to make it printable, but it needs to be glued together afterwards. Files updated.

EDIT2: "v2" New side and corners, resting on side. Scaled 10x from before.

EDIT3: "v3" Side piece turned the right way this time. Raft and flat bottom version of axis. All new objects combined in one Wings3D file for less clutter.

EDIT4: April 17. 2010 - Robo printed the first working cube!

EDIT5: "v4" Updated the corner piece with smaller connection part and beveled edges/smoothing (polygons went from 67 to 3432). Would love feedback and thoughts on this.

makezine.com/go/makerbot

This is the second incarnation of my Mecanum wheel design. It's a derivate of thingiverse.com/thing:2348 which I accidentally designed based on the wrong ball bearings (80034 instead of 624).

This design is now based on the (originally intended) 624 ball bearings. I was able to shrink the whole design, so the center wheel now fits on a standard Makerbot build platform and can be printed in one piece.

See my blog post at pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/04/23/its-printable for more information on the project. This post also contains a video showing the assembly process.

VIDEO HERE: youtube.com/watch?v=D7nDykz6R1o

Step one: Print one of each, but you will need two caps.

Step two: Assemble wheel onto base then cog wheel.

Step three: Press or glue pins on axles.

Step four: Spin wheel in amazement!

I once wanted to make a wind/water turbine to generate electricity.
but I have no wood/metal-working skills so the project failed.
but since I heard about 3d printers the idea of just printing it came to mind.
so here I designed a turbine in openSCAD.

its probably not that good and I have doubts about the printability and durability .
but I hope somebody has use for it.

Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here.

After seeing some kids playing with a little air plane powered by compressed air from a soda bottle, I decided to see if I could make a laser cuttable version of such a motor.

This is not a very powerful or efficient motor, but it is a fully working printable ("cuttable"?) air vane motor. My next goal will be to make a full printable bottle-powered park-flyer.

A video of the motor in action: youtube.com/watch?v=reaB0R9ALHs

More on air vane motors:
hydraulicspneumatics.com/200/TechZone/FluidPowerAcces/Article/True/6422/TechZone-FluidPowerAcces

Matt made a version for 3D printers. You can find it here: thingiverse.com/thing:620

I made this chess set for my Grandfather's 90th birthday. I laser it cut it out of 3mm birch plywood and stained the dark pieces. The board is alternating etched & bare squares.

Now that I'm back from the trip, I'm getting around to posting the designs up.

I hope to make another set, maybe with etched or a scored pattern for the dark pieces, rather than having to stain them and wait for all that boring drying.

I designed it in SketchUp. First I snagged some standard looking models for chess pieces from the warehouse. Then I scaled the king to a height of 85mm and scaled the rest to match (pretty closely) the same base size as the king. I drew two 90-degree planes through each one and made them components. Then I intersected one face of the plane with the rest of the model and got the lines I wanted. I pulled out that new face to 1/2 the width of the ply and did the same to the other side. Intersecting the two parts got me the lines for the notches.

A good bit of twiddling later, I used the SVG from SketchUp faces plugin to export one face of each of the parts. I've noticed the newer version gives much smoother paths, I think there are some gaps in the current version of the files I'm uploading.

Note: I've updated the svg files using the newer version of the SVG plugin, which does a single path. It cuts much cleaner. I have not, however, updated the EPS with all the pieces laid out on a single board. I'm leaving it here, just in case someone wants it.

This is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.

Here's a peek at what MakerBeam looks like!

We were hoping to get this printed awhile ago, but people get busy, things happen, and apparently boards fry on neighborhood MakerBots, so here it is: a 10 cm long mockup of MakerBeam.

We call this a mockup because the beam profile will not be this exactly. This should be easier to print, and we're not quite done revising the tooling documents with our manufacturer. It's got the basics down: a 10x10mm beam with a 3mm slot. It won't hold circuit boards or other thin panels as well as the actual extruded beam.

Many connectors one might design based on this profile will work no problem; some might have to be modified slightly. Have fun playing around!

The original file has multiple problems for printing and is included as a reference. The 10mm standing file and the 15x15mm file print fine according to Erik de Bruijn, who made the modifications. I recommend printing the 15x15mm model to end up with something you can play with.

kickstarter.com/projects/701662757/makerbeam-an-open-source-building-kit