I recently upgraded to a MakerGear Prusa Mendel from a Cupcake CNC with an automated build platform, and I missed the automatic ejection of parts out the front. So I designed a super-sized conveyor platform, re-using the gearmotor and also making use of AVataRR's paper + kapton belt design.

Video of it working: natetrue.posterous.com/automated-prusa-mendel-3d-printer-win-go-prus

In addition to the printed parts, it also requires:
- A Kysan DC Gearmotor A20RU-12V36RPM-15.5 (same one as the Cupcake's ABP)
- 200mm and 212mm lenghts of 1/2" EMT electrical conduit from a local hardware store
- 3x M4x20 bolts
- 6x M4 nuts
- 3x 624ZZ bearings (4mm x 13mm x 5mm)
- 5x M3x15 bolts
- 1x M3 nut
- Quite a bit of polyamide/kapton tape (the wider the better)
- Some silicone sealant or rubber cement

Known issues:
- The DC gearmotor is almost not powerful enough
- Sometimes the belt 'wanders' one way over time and gets gummed up against the roller holders
- A belt this big doesn't stay very even

A simple conveyor belt build platform for the MakerBot. It enables the MakerBot to do multiple prints without user intervention.

This is an initial prototype that does not support a heated build platform. I intend to add HBP support at a later time. I'm also still playing with conveyor belt materials. I've started with some Duralar I picked up for an art supply store. It has held up ok so far but more experimentation is required.

The intent here is to get the design out so people can play with it.

This is a clip-on bracket to mount a RAMPS board on top of a sells mendel. It clips on over the top of the Z-axis leadscrew so it won't work on a prusa. It uses the same clip dimensions as My Fan Bracket (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8329)

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

The guys at Moving Brands challenged us to help them print their own Chocolate Advent Calendar in a month.

We already knew about the Frostruder, and had most of the parts to build a RepRap Prusa, so the solution seemed obvious. They ordered a Frostruder, and we got busy building their Prusa.

Things got exciting when we tried to mount the Frostruder to the Prusa carriage - it was just too big and bulky!

Luckily, inspiration struck. We stripped down the Frostruder to the bare bones, and used the Prusa to print its own adaptor.

Lo and behold, chocolate printing goodness!

Moving Brands Advent Promotional Video: vimeo.com/33775105
Moving Brands Advent Calendar: movingbrands.com/advent

This is a spoon for my sugar bowl ( thingiverse.com/thing:17034 ). It is made to fit through the slot in the lid, and has a volume of 5mL (one teaspoon).

Slim, revised variant of jridley's parametric ziptieless SCAD LM8UU holder.

I never liked snap fit solutions for parts that rely on precision. In particular the current Prusa design uses two different ideas for LM8UU holders which either lead to heavy warping of the whole part when inserting the linear bearings because of a very tight fit (e.g. x ends) or snap in easily (in case you don't brake them..) but leave a faily loose fit needing additional zip ties to fasten them (e.g. x carriage).

This is why I appreciate CdnReprap's attempt to have a pecisely fitting, yet tightenable LM8UU holder which can be disassembled as many times as you desire, leaving the bearings on the smooth rods.

Update V1.1 (2012-01-23);
* changed mountplate to be parametric too
* using polyhole function for LM8UU-hole in hope to achieve even better fit

A handfull of collets for things 16682 and/or 16890 !

The ZIP file contains 48 STL to accomodate the drill bits I use the most.

As you can see, there's also collets for hex bits, size 6.25mm face to face.

They work fairly well, check out the pic with the piece of wood, it's a 15mm thick piece of oak and I have been able to go through it with the 1mm bit ! yes, it took me a while ;-)

In my previous derivative of Rasle500's great design I just made a longer handle.

This thing make that handle empty, adds some threads an introduces a cap to be bolted in those threads.

Now you have a handle that is also an storage box!

This is a version of Greg's extruder that solves one mayor problem i had with it: My hobbed bolts are not deeply hobbed, so the filament would slip off to the side. thingiverse.com/thing:14960 partially solved it for me, but didn't provide accurate guidance in both directions.

My version has an additional guide in the filament path. I tried to block the hobbed bolt as little as possible, so i added a cutout on the opposite side of the filament so one can still get to the hobbing with a needle or tweezers.

Further improvements include:
- Ziptie-slot for hotend wires
- Small cutaway on the bottom for the hotend wires
- 16mm Groovemount with countersunk screws
- Drepression for the front 608zz bolt bearing, so it doesn't rub against the plastic when moving

It prints quite nicely and works like a charm!

This was done in Solidworks due to my lack of patience and openScad knowledge.
I'll add more hotend mounts upon request.

EDIT: I've uploaded the v2 - the original file was an older revision that constrained the filament too much.

EDIT: And the v3 is here. It contains a couple tweaks:
- slimmed down the support structure for the hinge
- added a bridge-based depression for the rear bearing
- tweaked the guide channel for better printability
- the groovemount screws now sink in deeper
- the cable cutaway is now more pronounced

I'm working on a polar-polar 3d printer concept. I thought that a tapered roller bearing turntable could be fully printed yet still be pretty precise, where linear printed axes are hard to get running smoothly. Also, the printer would be able to print the entire bearing/table, rather than having to section it. The file is sized for a 140x140mm table.
Its noisy when lightly loaded, but very quiet with a 215 pound load ;-). The photo was taken after the load test!
Sorry about the faceting on the race; Sketchup's follow me function is not all that impressive.

Set of planetary gears and arms to hold the planet gears in place.

Based off OpenSCAD code from thing:7390 (after cutting out significant portions of it - because the original thing is much more than a toy).

The gear ratios are very interesting, and (at least at first) non-intuitive, depending on the part that is held stationary.

With a fixed Annulus or Sun, this gives 1:6.
With a fixed Planet carrier, this gives 1:5.

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

This is a moderately larger 3d printer based on the ever popular Mendel, Prusa.

The build envelope in mm is 300,250,150 (x,y,z respectively).

There are a lot of subtle differences in this design that I made to suit my own needs. For instance; the
X-ends are interchangable and lock onto the smooth rods from the sides to prevent splitting along layers.
And the A-side threaded diagonal rods are outside of the front and rear cross rods for better clearance
with the extruder at high z-limit. I reconfigured the vertexes to make that possible.

My take on increasing rigidity and flexing on the X axis for both the sells and prusa mendels.

After they are printed simply zip-tie them onto the frames and you are good to go. On the Sells Mendel they can be mounted inwards or out, while the Prusa can only be mounted inwards.

Enjoy a more sturdy frame.

This thing is based on the Cuboro Marble track, but I didnt have one when I drew the pieces. The track is 22mm diameter and all turns are 22mm radius too.
Feel free to add new parts.

My grandfather Karl Bier was a first-class maker and architect. He died when I was very young, so I never knew him, but I have some of his furniture in my house, and his level of craftsmanship has always inspired me.

He made a burr puzzle out of hardwood that we still have. It has a shine and finish that comes from many, many hours of being handled in the 60 or so years since it was made.

I've modeled an exact replica of that puzzle, and I hope people have as much fun with this one as I did over the years with my grandfather's wooden one.

Please see my reason for making this thing here: thingiverse.com/thing:16662

I need the tap holder for rethreading holes after powder painting. That is why i made the handle thicker. For a drill holder it might be better with a thinner handle. Let me know if you want me to make one :)
The insert is drawn with a Ø6,1 hole.
I will also change that for you if needed.

INFO: I have measured some other taps at work today. They do not match the size of the cheap ones I use at home.
So please check if the ones here will match your tap.

I will post new inserts soon.

This is a 3 by 3 array of circle knots. The base unit comes from this website: cs.duke.edu/~edels/Tubes/knots/circ/index.html

A bit frustrated by not being able to print the threads on this nice hand drill: thingiverse.com/thing:6285
I decided to experiment with my own threads so I can make a derivative.

This is a 90° thread in stead of the normal 55-60°.

It printed nicely on my Cupcake and the 2 parts fit quite nice together.

Update: please follow this link: thingiverse.com/thing:16682

A slightly more parametric version of the above thing. I needed a quick handle for a 5.5mm bit, and this turned out to work quite well.

You can scale the bit holder and screw cap with a single parameter. To adjust the handle, you will still have to adapt a bit more to your needs. It has a few unparametric template objects to cut off the handle (for smaller build surfaces) and reshape the handle grip (to make it more comfortable). The scad file requires the stl files of the above thing.

Feel free to flattr this, the original thing, or any derivatives if it helped you like it helped me. I did.

After watching the great triffid_hunter design I adapted mine in order to fit a Sells Mendel.

This is a nice addition that simplifies the printer, saves vitamins and contributed to a better world.

Here are all the 3D printed parts for the RepRapPro Ltd version of Huxley. Despite what it says on the left, it was primarily created by Jean-Marc Giacalone. I added a few bits...

This is a slightly more challenging variant of Dovetail Triangle that only opens when held in a certain orientation.

Watch the video for a demonstration:

youtube.com/watch?v=JnMRREjfPyc

These things were designed to snap together and form an outer ring for Sublime's awesome game pieces (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5755).

I designed this broder based on mraisers design for sublimes 3d printed game tiles. Like mraisers mine interlocks using dovetails, My border however is thinner and has a nicely beveled edge. Future design changes will include integrated card holders.

3D game pieces.

This is an accessory to be used with your Settlers of Catan game.

The tiles are 90mm across the diagonal of the hex. (same as originals)
The smaller hex tiles numbers/markers/houses/castles/etc are 31.6mm across the diagonal. (larger than originals)

I have included two styles of settlements/cities.
1) city/settlement; same as original except on a hex base.
2) house/castle; custom and with lots of detail

(caution high polygon count)
(rendering of complete game has 194150 vertices and 350881 facets)

Updates
All revisions will be added to the zip file (solid and hollow)

Mar 1/11 Fixed bottom of ore port marker and cleaned up ore tile.

Feb 10/11 Fixed water 2 stl's

Jan 31/11 Replaced Corrupt "set" zip files

Jan 30/11 Added "the great river" expansion with a bonus tile

Jan 30/11 Added Ship for seafarers expansion

Jan 30/11 Replaced Wheat with rev1 (larger wheat bundles for easier printing)

Jan 30/11 Added alternative set with a hole in the center for reduced printing time and ease of removing the number tokens (100% compatible with originals)

Jan 28/11 Added goldmine tile as requested by merlinjim

Jan 27/11 Replaced Castle with rev1 after skeinforge showed errors.

Jan 26/11 Replaced original water and port tiles with Version_2 containing entirely remodeled water and port tiles in three levels of subdivision and smoothing. (rendering is of the smoothest v2.2.stl)

Jan 26/11 Replaced Brick and brick port marker with a highly simplified version that should improve printability without compromising appearance. Brick red 90mm rev2.stl and Portmarker_brick_rev1.stl