This is a just a small box for a IR-Led-Kit that I use to illuminate the bed when our baby is asleep. I use this together with the Cell-phone holder thing to be able to see our child when it's dark in the room. :)

The small nob to wind the blind-string around to keep the blinds up. On two of the pictures you can see the original broken one. :)

A simple holder to be able to hold a cell phone on the edge of the baby crib ( ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/00187875 ) to use the phone as a baby cam with sound ( play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5wYXMud2ViY2FtIl0. ) then you can watch over your baby with a computer or Tab ( play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rcreations.WebCamViewerPaid&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5yY3JlYXRpb25 zLldlYkNhbVZpZXdlclBhaWQiXQ.. ). Very simple but effective baby-monitor if you already have a phone. :)

An art toy to be used to draw patterns on a paper. In the SketcUp file there are different sizes of the big inward gear.

Update: A friend found the real name of the thing its a: Spirograph - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirograph
I didn't know that when I made it. :)

I have made some changes to the LCD-case to not have the LCD protrude out of the case and some other smaller details inside. Made the "gaps" for both the SD-card and ribbon-cable smaller. I ordered this kit from the eMaker shop ( emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=301 ). But I already ran Marlin on a 1284. In the kit I got a ribbon-cable with 24 leads. I use the extra pair for the "PWR" led. :) The stands where originally form this panel: thingiverse.com/thing:21677 However I modified them a bit. There is still a slight overweight towards the front so the panel will fall forward if the stands are not fasten in to something.

This is some replacement parts for the RepRapPro PCB-bed holders. I have added the possibility to use a small wire chain for the bed wires. Also made some minor changes to the holders to fit a small thumb-nut to be able to level the bed easier.

I made these extended vertex parts to solve the problem with the blue fan hitting the threaded rod when printing tall objects. This parts replace the old once but you can still use your old threaded rods. Basically it is an in place replacement for your current vertex parts.
In the pictures, you see the original ones in the middle.

This is the Mark II model made by PabloFerroDesign modified for print ability on a 140x140 Huxley.
I have also done lot's of changes here and there and a total redesign of the fingers.

This is for an old household assistant (in Swedish it's called "Hushållsassistent"). It is used for kneading the dough when you bake.

I made this to my Mother. She was about to buy two new nobs for her old Electrolux machine. The price for each nob was over €20!

So, I printed two instead... :)

A big kinetic art project for your empty 2 by 4 meters wall. :)

Update:
Movie added youtube.com/watch?v=EIUwBxDOi_w
Update:
Added the electronics box (after a small redesign).
Update:
Added the Tray-List.xlsx if you want to know print times, filament usage and colors used for each tray.

I broke the handle on our food stick (is that's what it's called?). The thing you use to test if the potatoes has boiled long enough. So I designed a new one... The one I made was personal, so I made a more "common" one as well. :)

These walls can be used with this storage unit (Biltema): biltema.se/sv/Verktyg/Forvaring/Verktygslada/Sortimentskap-20628/

It also fits for a similair unit from Bauhaus. :)

Box for the Pololu USB AVR Programmer.

Here is a simple electronics box for the Sanguinololu board (were all the connections actually fit inside the box). When I built my Huxley I had a perfect box for the electronics. This is a replication of that box. I am only using the lid myself after deciding that 10mm holes for ventilation would be enough to keep the stepper drivers cool. On the original lid I had a fan mounted.
I had to split the box in half because my Huxley can only print 130X130mm.
The box is 144x82mm and 29mm deep (outside measured). Walls about 2mm.
The extra slit on the lid is for the SD-Card reader. That's the position I have my reader in. But you can of course move it around in SketchUp.

I don't know if anyone else will ever have use for these parts. But, I like to share so here it is.
It's three parts to replace the broken top plastic parts on our big sun parasol. I don't even know the brand of the parasol. :)

A very simple but effective soap tray. Tvål is swedish for Soap. :)

Well, we all love PacMan... This was my Brothers idea. He should have all the credit! :)

Update: Added 6mm pen hole to both figures. :)

Created a small center-plug (38mm) to fit in the new spools I got. Great quality 1,75mm PLA from supply3dpla.com

Update: Added a 51.5mm version of the center-plug.

Just a remake of the original to fit my Sigma lens.

Made a small key for M3 nuts (5,5mm). It can't handle much force. But for holding still and just "locking" nuts it's great. :)

This is a small cone for the window blinds strings. 4 of the original small cones has broke on our window blinds at home. So I designed and printed new ones.
They are a little bigger and thicker then the original to give a better grip.

Just a small funnel for the kitchen.

This is a DIY art. This was one of the first project I printed on my 3D-Printer. Just a really cool thing to have. :)

This is how it looks live: youtube.com/watch?v=G-c5_IVQEhE

I had a bunch of small files without handles. So I decided to fix that. :)

If you have a 3D-printer. You will sooner or later want to join filament to be able to use up all your stumps you get. I decided to take on the problem and this is what I came up with. I know that Rich already designed a nice joiner ( thingiverse.com/thing:9850 ), but that requires that you have a heat resistor and that you use the computer (software) to control the heat. This results in that you cannot join filament while you are printing. :)

PS: The Sketchup file is just an example (I had to have a file). :)

Another 40mm pulley to be used with any type of rope. It uses the same wheel as the first one I made. You can hang this one. You also need to use two m4 screws to hold it together.

Just a simple pulley for any type of rope. :)

This is a 20mm modification of a Enclosed Cable Carrier by Landru. I added two end parts and opened up the links to be able to get the cable in when the chain is in place. Put the links every other left and every other right. :)

Update: Replaced the skp file with a new one also containing smaller version of the closed link and end parts.

This is a derivate of another watering spike.
It will hold two 1,5l bottles (maybe even 2l) for watering your plants.
You can also use it in a deeper pot.

Ever been irritated of the plastic foil roll popping out of the box when trying to tear it of? Then this is for you! Print two sets of these and mount them. One part in the roll and the other part through the paper box to snap together with the inner part. The only drawback is the you will need to crack the paper roll when you want to remove the holders. :)

Update: Updated the files to correct the size a bit (the parts where too big).

Update: Changed some sizes to make a better fit.