This thing is based on the Cuboro Marble track, but I didnt have one when I drew the pieces. The track is 22mm diameter and all turns are 22mm radius too.
Feel free to add new parts.

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

This is a DIY art. This was one of the first project I printed on my 3D-Printer. Just a really cool thing to have. :)

This is how it looks live: youtube.com/watch?v=G-c5_IVQEhE

This is a complete two-leg walking mechanism of Theo Jansen.

To build a complete walking Robot, you'll need this Thing 4 Times and some Construction for the two Motors and Control of them.

This magnet toy is great for exploring geometric shapes and the awesome power of MAGNETS. It is inspired by natural geometry and buckyballs, which are way too much fun. Unless you eat them. DO NOT EAT THE MAGNETS.

This is the first release of the Boot-strappable Open Laser Cutter project that I've been working on for the past few months. The goal of the project is to construct an open design laser cutter with a large cut area (about 1 meter square), for about 5%-10% of the cost of a commercial system. The design draws heavily from other open laser cutter projects out there (such as the Buildlog 2X Laser Cutter) in using inexpensive aluminum extrusion and optics for most of the structural frame, while here most of the custom parts are 3D printed from ABS.

The printed parts represent about 10 hours of total printing time on a Makerbot or Reprap, and have been designed with the hope that they would be of general utility to anyone printing out a large CNC system -- not just a laser cutter. These include parts such as NEMA17 motor holders that mount onto t-slot, idler brackets, pillow block bushing mounts for motors, idlers, and shafts, and so on.

A (parametric) buckle that you can attach to your camera strap, which lets you (hopefully) stop losing your lens cap.

The STL is sized for a 58mm lens cap, and a ~40mm strap width.

The printing layers make for a great friction catch for the lens cap. But there's a designed-in lip overhang to make it a little more aggressive.

This has been the ultimate project for me, and is now finally functional after 8 months of blood, sweat and ABS.
It is also made on my 3d printed makerbot ( thingiverse.com/thing:3285 )

The printer can easily get taller by adding more z-elements and replacing z lead-screws and wobble arrester bars. I would then end up with almost 800mm build hight.

It wouldn't surprise me if this is the largest printed multi-piece object, as it is built from 15+ lbs of ABS plastic.

Specs
Footprint: 800x560
Build envelope: 500x300x200+
Platform: Heated with 800W, custom ordered, silicone wire wound element.
- Kapton sheet, custom ordered to fit platform (500x300)
Motors: NEMA 23
Extruder: MakerBot Stepstruder® MK6 Plus
Electronics: MakerBot® Generation 4
Interface: PC/Mac or MakerBot® Gen 4 Interface Board Kit v1.1
Motion: all axis uses linear bearings for smooth motion.

Build duration: 8 months
Plastic used: 15+ lbs
Price: 3000$ (approx.)

Video of the printer in action: youtube.com/watch?v=Cx2OUO-aSFQ

Iterating on the previous 'plain' hairclip (see comparison image), this new SLIM version disposes of the need of a 3rd spring, and trims down the size significantly without reducing strength or function.

I personally find this version to be even more secure to wear, but feedback on how it fits on other people's hair would be very welcome indeed!

This particular rainbow version, I printed using a welded-together string of several colo(u)rs of ABS - coming to a total of 79cm (31") of 3mm filament.

The Nyan-Cat add-on, can be printed separately, painted, and glued on with hot glue.

Nyancat YouTube video: youtube.com/watch?v=QH2-TGUlwu4

This printable extruder is intended to work on RepRap Mendel (both standard and Prusa), RepRap Huxley, and virtually any other open-source 3D printer you can find.

It features:

1. 1.75 mm filament
2. Adaptable mounting plate to attach it to virtually any 3D printer
3. Very compact high-torque NEMA 11 motor
4. Active ducted fan cooling for high reliability
5. Wade-style hobbed bolt filament transport
6. Wing-nut drive to spread the torque loading on the plastic gears
7. Push-fit hot-end parts - no thread cutting
8. Easily replaced PTFE liner for the hot end
9. A single M3-threaded rod cut to lengths makes all the fixings
10. Lightweight: 420g
11. Compact design (110 mm x 90 mm x 80 mm)

I based this design (loosely) on Jstkatz's extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7037), in particular, the idea of using a lever to trap the filament against its drive.

This is a follow-on to thingiverse.com/thing:904

It is a cylinder with a helical channel. The channel is designed so that the part can be printed without any internal support material. This was printed on a Dimension uPrint with zero internal support material.

The hollow channel can then be filled with low-melting-temperature metal alloy to form an electromagnet.

Due to the low number of turns, the performance of the electromagnet is poor. This is really just a proof-of-principle of the fabrication method, not much of a practical electromagnet.

Malone and Lipson report better results using similar materials with a layer-by-layer approach in the paper "Multi-material Freeform Fabrication of Active Systems" which can be found here: creativemachines.cornell.edu/publications

The SpoolHead is another promising approach for making embedded conductors. Info here: reprap.org/wiki/SpoolHead

UPDATE June 27 2011 - Also be sure to check out Rhys Jones' new results on the RepRap page here: blog.reprap.org/2011/06/new-approach-to-printing-metals.html

This is the 5th version of my printable linear rail, I've gotten everything to finally work correctly. This can be used as a drop in replacement for a 3d printer's X or Y axis. It's rail system is designed to connect together to form any needed length.

This machine hopefully will be my entry for the Gada prize.


Update 06/16/2011:
I worked out a few modifications to the shuttle. Now the lower half of the shuttle can be printed as well, this removes:
4x 5/16(8mm) nuts
2x 5/16(8mm) bolts
2x 5/16 washers

-The next to go is going to be replacing the front 5/16(8mm) hardware with all printed parts. I'm trying to pare this down just the motor and the printed parts.

-I also redesigned the Large helical gear to incorporate the 608 bearing embedded inside of it. think this is an advantage of trying to use 2 bearings in the pillow block. The large helical gear is also now held in place by a printed 8mm bolt 40mm long. This removes one additional piece of hardware.

-The shuttle top now has 4 mounting holes, although I'm just securing the motor with 2 at this point.

-I printed 2 new 3-segment rails, redesigned lower half of shuttle to be printed.
-I also added 2 new pics of the x/y gantry system and uploaded all new parts - I should have another video.


Here is a youtube video of it in action:
youtube.com/watch?v=ScJMPw6UPtw

Comments and feedback are welcome.

in fact a derivate of thingiverse.com/thing:5065

I added the FreeCAD file if you like to change something...

Jig for cutting worm type pinch wheel on M8 bolt for Wade's geared nema 17 extruder thingiverse.com/thing:1794 with a drill, but without using a vise.

Nothing to see here. You really want version 3: thingiverse.com/thing:8252 (although this is still a good reference for the benefits of the accessible aspects.

**Version 2 now uploaded**. Generate STLs from the version 2 scad to get the version 2 changes. NOTE: To do this you must have configuration.scad from the prusa git repo in the same directory as gregs-wade-v2.scad so that bolt and nut sizes defined in that file can be used.

This is an extruder based strongly on the wades from the Prusa git repo. It has several features over the standard wade:

1. Accessible hobbing. If you strip the filament, there is no need to disassemble in any way (such as removing the idler/filament or bolt) in order to remove the stripped plastic from the hobbing. You can get a needle in the hole in the top and scrape it out.

2. The motor can be removed without removing the large gear. The three mounting screws can be accessed without removing the gear. 2 of them are clearly accessible and the other is accessible through a hole in the gear.

3. Slightly higher gear ratio than standard wade. This design uses 43:10 instead of 37:11.

4. The rotated motor mount means that the carriage attachment screw is accessible with the motor installed.

5. The rotated motor mount also means that the clearance past the idler attachment captive nuts is a bit longer, so you have a bit more play tensioning the idler.

6. The motor is far enough back from the face that the small gear can be mounted with the hub towards the motor (necessary with short shafted motors) and it will mesh with the large gear when there is only 1 washer between the bearing and the large gear.

7. The large gear has a shallow nut trap so that locking halfnuts can be used with hobbed threaded rod (infinitely adjustable hob alignment) rather than a bolt.

8. The motor mount screws are recessed allowing the large gear to be almost against the face of the extruder body.

9. It has sexy curves.

Things I still plan to do:
Add some options to the way the small gear mounts on the shaft. I have always had problems getting that right (hence thingiverse.com/thing:5213).

Version 2 Changes:
* Added the 4th idler screw hole.
* Moved the top captive nuts for the idler screws closer to the idler so that you can screw the idler bolts in further
* Made the motor mount slots go a further 1mm away from the hobbed bolt (as requested by spacexula)
* Added the framework for hotend mount supports (I still need people to tell me what their particular hotend mounting needs are). Each hotend defines its holes assuming that the extruder block is sitting vertical with the filament exit hole at [0,0,0]).

Some other turret models have been posted and people have been asking for the model for this one on the flickr set ( flickr.com/photos/7820200@N05/sets/72157626476156514/with/5614051491/ ), so I thought I'd post my progress. There's a lot left to be done, but the white shell parts are pretty much finalized. It's a complex model, and rendering will take a while, this is normal. You can change the $fn variable at the beginning to make smoother curves with smaller facets, but the larger the variable, the longer it will take to render. I've been working on other projects, but if/when I finish this, I'll update this space.

This model is based on careful measurement of images from screenshots from Portal, Portal 2, and Portal 2 promotional materials. It is actual size, as measured by taking screenshots in which Chell can be seen standing next to the turret, and assuming her to be average height for an adult female. This resulted in an estimate that the standing turret is 1.5m tall including the antenna, and the spheroid portion is 1m tall when folded.

Update: thanks to eric1000 for the pics of a 1/10 scale shapeways print!

Update 2: The design now has parameters for size (height of the complete spheroid, "full size" is 1000mm) and thickness of the shell in mm. This should make it easier to produce printable STL files. Also, the different parts are now modules that can be easily disabled at the beginning of the file.

Update 3: I've successfully printed all of the shell parts on my Makerbot with supports at 1/5 scale. Pictures have been added, and I've posted the STLs I used.

Update 4: I've added the black feet and updated the legs with small recesses to insert them into. The scad file is also updated, and includes the code for generating the printable plates.

I've been working on this thingiverse.com/thing:5264 for a long time and with MBI's recent support of selling the high torque NEMA 17 motors, we can now use some of the heritage designs to create a direct drive, dual stepper extruder.

The original design concept comes from the awesome Printruder II, by Zaggo: thingiverse.com/thing:1980

With a dual extruder design, it opens up the possibilities of printing in two colors or two different materials, such as ABS for the main structure of the print and PVA for water soluble support material.

The offset between nozzles is 35mm.

Loc-Line style modular hosing is used in many ways but mainly it is configured to deliver coolant to CNC cutting tools during machining operations. This "thing" is a first stab at making a printable version for the non-wet variety of uses. Snap several of these together and it will form a re-positionable wire conduit (say for an LED) or arms for a helping hands tool. Another use might be to direct cooling air to an adjustable location near the extrusion nozzle. This version isn't nearly as strong or tight as real Loc-Line but it does hold its position reasonably well, and has a continuous hole through the middle at the maximum angle. I can't imagine it would hold water though :-)

This part uses geometry identical to the original. I provide a SolidWorks model and a drawing you can use to model this part in your favorite software. I will add new parts to this thing as they are designed.

I've created a base module that will bolt onto the shaft cover of your Thing-O-Matic. This can be used for mounting an adjustable light on your MakerBot.

If you would like to request anything in this series, please leave a comment below. I'll try to get it done for you.

This is an OpenSCAD script to generate DXF files for QF breakout boards. The script conains parameter sets for Xilinx VQ44 and Xilinx VQ100 packages.

This is a peristaltic pump we created during Futurelabcamp Boston. It uses a NEMA 14 stepper motor to drive the rotational pump. The stepper motor driver is based on the standard design of L297/L298. We use an arduino to step it. It has it's own website on peristalsis.tentacleriot.eu

We started shipping the Ultimaker, parallel to that we publish the lasercut drawings.

This is the infamous Gangsta in Push Puppet form.

Push the button and he collapses like he was gunned down in a drive by!

Let go of the button and he stands back up to pimp again!

Repeat as desired!

Printed Parametric Chainmail

I've been wanting to try this for a while. This is a sheet of interlocking rings, printed in place. The rings are basically square, with cut off corners. Two sets of diagonals cross each other at different heights, with four posts at the corners. Well, it makes sense when you see the pictures!

This is the first thing I've designed in OpenSCAD, so the code is probably pretty sloppy. The major parameters that can be changed are the layer thickness and line width, along with ring size and number.

I searched for "chainmail" on Thingiverse and the only result was a post by Vik on the Interlocking Rings thing: "Next, chainmail. Right?" So I hope you like this, Vik!

This is still a bit of a work in progress but I think it's mostly workable now.

Warning! There be overhangs here!

I have yet to see what sort of torque this can handle but it seems like it will handle quite a bit. I'm able to stop it if I grab two of the screws sticking out of the planet carrier. Hopefully I'll measure the torque soon.

This is intended to be used with another bearing somewhere on the output shaft. I can't imagine that it would handle any load with only one bearing on there. A different cover could easily be made with a spot for another bearing.


The current design adds 38.5mm in length to your stepper, it could be less but the makerbot supplied stepper that I have has long shaft so I had to make it longer to stop it from interfering with the bolt for the output.
It could probably be 5mm or so shorter pretty easily with a shorter stepper shaft.

Change Log

5/11/2011 Initial Upload
5/12/2011 Switched to 2x 683ZZ bearings for planets, shortened planets a bit, increased backlash and clearance, added list of some possible ratios
5/13/2011 Added addendum/dedendum adjustment to gear library for internal gear.
Removed most of the constants at the top and switched to arguments with defaults
Added multi-stage capability, now you can stack multiple stages in one case
5/20/2011 Added a way to get a screw in to bolt to the stepper and nuts in so that you can bolt it to something (I didn't think it would be too easy to find screws to go through the whole thing into the stepper)
Added a relief on the underside of the cover to clear the screws in the carrier.
5/25/2011 Uploaded separate STLs and modified involute_gears library

Nanode provides lowest cost web interconnectivity for microcontrollers and smart sensor networks.

It is compatible with the Arduino programming environment.

It combines ATmega328, ENC28J60 ethernet controller and magjack ethernet connector on the same small pcb. All components are conventional through-hole so that it can be assembled by anyone with basic soldering skills. It can be built for under £20 (US$32) which is half the cost of an Arduino with ethernet shield.

The Nanode has additional I/O connectors which bring all of the I/O from the ATmega328 microcontroller and power to the top edge of the pcb. This allows it to be plugged direrectly into a standard breadboard making prototyping easier.

It is compatible with most Arduino shields -such as the Nokia 3310 display shield shown'

In addition to ethernet connectivity, Nanodes can be connected together on a low cost wired serial bus which allows them to be distributed around the home, for example, in a home automation or energy monitoring system. The serial bus allows Nanodes to communicate with one another or via a Master/Slave heirarchy. The Master device normally has the ethernet connection, and may also have real time clock, User display/interface SDcard storage etc.


The Nanode platform is an ideal project to introduce web connectivity and networking. It's low cost and ease of assembly makes it an ideal college or Hackspace project.

Nanode allows applications for internet remote montoring and control to be developed on a familiar low cost platform Applications such as web servers, web clients or for data exchange and control using services such as Pachube.

Nanode is based on an earlier ATmega/ENC28J60 design and firmware by Tuxgraphics.

Not for building.

Just to be used for modeling.

Might work well in conjunction with "60mm fan shroud by zgbot":
thingiverse.com/thing:8091

or "60mm fan to flex hose by MiseryBot":
thingiverse.com/thing:8774

Easter and finishing Portal 2 inspired me to make this basic turret template for use with the Egg-Bot. The back of the design has one of the famous quotes by everyone's favorite, child-like home defense product.

Watch it being printed here: youtube.com/watch?v=U4bl18mVOv4

This is a cube farm playset project to honor all of us who toil on in the corporate rat maze and keep America going.

If you decide to create something for this project, please add the tag: cube_farm so that we can find it and add it to our cube farm playset. I provided some dimensioned pictures for those who do not use Google Sketchup.

I sorta plan to eventually add things like: computer monitor, keyboard, chair, wall clips etc. Or maybe I will add a laser cannon to zap noisy co-workers.