This little helper fits in your pocket or toolkit. Unfold him and he will hold things your nubby sausage fingers cannot. Hes a fun conversation piece in times of boredom. Make two and battle them Make more and you have a herd of hungry dragons.

Grrrrrr...


Use your imagination, or just use him to hold the small resistor that you need to solder without burning the crap out of your fingers.

Enjoy

Huxley nozzle mounting for nozzles with 10mm diameter PEEK-holder.

Turbines have awesome power in a small package. This one spins up to 60,000 rpm using the airflow of a standard vacuum cleaner, sounds like a 747 taking off, produces amazing power, and sucks up its own dust!

This is an opportunity for someone to make a successful product. I have no commercial interest, and would be delighted if anybody developed it further. A good start would be to source a batch of shafts and spacers for people to experiment with.

The spinning top is an simpler project, also there is a small hand-held turbine rotor just for fun.

A spring-loaded bearing idler for 1.75mm filament. It should be compatible with the Makerbot mk7 and the Makerbot mk7 Drive Gear, but I designed it for a spur gear from SDP-SI: S10T05M020S0505. It has clearance on the bearing side so you can print a mirrored idler and use it in a dual extrusion setup.

The overhead lever design was inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:15718 . That design has no filament guide which is required with a spur gear. The idler bearing also seems to contact at slightly the wrong position when I printed it.

The body was insprired by thingiverse.com/thing:13727 which I quite like except for the fact that it protrudes on the idler side preventing use with dual extrusion. I also find that the force required can flex the lower part of the base because of the slight bounciness of the spur gear. The hinge on that design is also superior to mine but I did not see a good way to incorporate it in my design.

This Mk7 replacement features a spring-tensioned, quick-release 623 bearing idler, and won't interfere with dualstrusion. The back is also open to make it easy to clean the teeth of the drive gear.

This works with MBI's Mk7 and QU-BD's MBE extruders. It will fit the Mk8 as well, but the Replicators have plates above the extruders that will interfere with the spring arm. There are several derivatives that solve this problem, most at the expense of the rear clean-out opening.

The best shaft for the bearing seems to be an M3x10mm flat-head screw, inserted from the motor side of the idler piece. A piece of 3mm filament should also work in a pinch.

This is for the little vampires who thirst.....
made with Cartesio LD
thank you to Jos Scheepers
mauk.cc/

I made these for drilling out holes in 3D printed parts.

Having built the Printable Marble Machine #1 which is hand operated, I wanted to add a motor ..... which led to the redesign of quite a number of parts.
The motor which I settled on is a Pololu 298:1 Micro Metal Gearmotor which attaches onto my plastic mount using the Pololu Micro Metal Gearmotor Bracket. This motor runs off 5V and rotates at 45rpm - just about as fast as I think the design will cope with. It is powered using a 5V DC mains power supply which came with a mobile phone - I replaced the original power connector on the power supply as I wanted to use a 2.1mm DC power jack plug and socket set.

I have uploaded my rather poor video attempt here: youtube.com/watch?v=YOaXsGhuKLQ

Thanks also go to gzumwalt - he has made some cracking motorised models which motivated me to have a go at this one.

Improved version of mike_linus's Ultimate Power Supply Terminal Cover. Designed to cover exposed screw terminals on power supplies commonly used with 3d printers and provide a switch and plug options.

I wanted to make an extra large model, and decided to use pins to connect the pieces together instead of using glue.

Total size is about 13" x 9".

I can get about 115mm in the X axis and 120mm in the Z axis with my TOM, and this model was scaled up to the max my machine will support.

I cut the model up with NetFabb, then used Blender3D to create sockets for the pins.

This is an aid to make it easier to calibrate the x & y axes of your 3D printer.

Using calipers to calibrate the x & y axes was a big chore for me since I could never seem to get consistent reference points on the carriage & frame to make measurements. I was resorting to taking several measurements (invariably all would turn out slightly different), and then average the results.

This thing is just a simple pointer that you can clip to the carriage. The pdf file is a mm graph that you lay on the bed.

Lets face it, smoking kills. And as far as we know, vapor from electronic cigarettes isn't immediately harmful. It doesn't stink, cause cancer, offend others, stain your teeth, or any of the other negatives attributed to the "analog" cigarette. I have embraced this technology and if you smoke, you should at least give it a try too. As of the time of this posting, I have been two months without even a craving for smoke. But, this hobby comes with a price, CLUTTER. As we go and search for that perfect flavor, we accumulate a lot of accessories. This print is an attempt to tend to some of that clutter. It has spaces for bottles of liquid, and the sides are matched up perfectly to fit the ViVi nova tanks, with plenty of space for extras. Thanks to AK_Eric for helping me out with this project.

A scaled up, adult, and printable version of your favorite childhood board game.

Nice Roll Top Box.
When the box is opened, the lid hides in a space between two "walls" at the bottom of the box (see photos).
10 X 5 X 4 cm

Just a little redesign to the 'Huxley Fold Beef'd X axis LM6UU mount's ' from natko:
- x-idler: added a spacer for the bearing to work without washers
- x-motor: cut away additional material for the endstop-pusher and added an adjustable endstop bolt.

After printing just insert a M3-nut, a small spring and a M3-bolt to have a fine adjustable endstop. Make sure your endstop-switch is exactly below the screw.

I wanted something cool for my desktop, so I made this to put on it it.

A scaled up snap-on 555 model. Inspired by the work of UksiI developed from scratch a printable kit to reproduce the famous 555 timer circuit. Enjoy!

Something I made to dispense food for my degus. I'm working towards a operant-conditioning-chamber type of toy for them to play with while I'm away during the day. This is the feeder module for that system. As I finish them, I'll be posting the "display" module (row of LEDs with two-button input) and the controller code. In the end, I want to make some simple puzzles/games for the degus to work through.

I added an agitator stick to keep the food from jamming in the hopper. It seems to work pretty well for small granular food that doesn't pack.

See video: youtu.be/GxMIHgMNGUo

This is a vise for fixing printed circuit boards (PCBs) on machine tables. it consists of two L-shaped pieces, which are meant to be clamped on two diagonally opposite corners of your PCB (see pictures). The long slots are made for M10 Hex Socket screws, for smaller ones you might have to use washers or modify the design.
The sides have a 0.75mm high wall built in, to enable accurate positioning of the Boards.
The short side of the L-shapes has two holes (22mm apart) , enabling you to screw on an additional plate to align one of the clamps with your machine table's edge.

Since I usually drill/cut my PCBs on my mill, I got a little fed up with using the thick clamping jaws usually used for fixing metal objects on the cross-slide. The small drills used for PCBs are so short that I had more than a few collisions with my drilling chuck and the jaws whenever I was drilling holes close to them, so I made this thing.
I intentionally left plenty of space under the clamp, so the drills won't directly go into your table.

Hope someone finds it useful.

DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk.

Designed these for our #geekwedding. Three sided edge lit table centerpieces and matching cake topper design. We used a Silhouette Cameo to score the design onto the plastic sheet. More details at: billporter.info/?p=2153.

This is a simple adjustable-volume straw pipette. It should be very useful around any wet lab and works nicely with a relatively high range of possible volume settings. You can calibrate the volume but it is generally only good for low precision work. The pipette has two thumb nuts for adjusting upper and lower stops.

To complete the build you will also need a spring (Pez dispenser) but it may work without as the membrane is elastic, a kids balloon, drinking straw, and some tape. Good luck!

See a demo: youtu.be/N2Ax4OGokGM

I was having trouble with my PLA printed Y platform belt clamps softening enough that they let the belt relax while the bed was heated for ABS printing, so I designed this braced belt clamp.

Once I got the printer working well enough I printed another out of ABS so it's even better.

The height of each bit is parametric so could be used with anything but is currently set up to work well with my new Prusa i3. The included STLs are set up for either SAE or metric and GT2 belt.

The trouble with 3D printing a ball bearing is that spheres don't adhere to the 45 degree rule, so they tend to print poorly, or if metal balls are used instead, then the bearing requires assembly. This is a new kind of bearing that can only be manufactured by 3D printing and comes preassembled.

It is a planetary gearset and functions like a cross between a needle bearing and a thrust bearing. No cage is required to keep the rollers in place, because their gearing keeps them perfectly spaced. The gears are all herringbone, which is why it cannot be disassembled and also why it can act as a thrust bearing. If you're wondering how well a 3D printed bearing could work under load, please check out my video: youtu.be/ZghwSBiM0sU

This design is fully parametric and made to be adjusted in the Customizer app to whatever you need. Thanks to aubenc for finding a problem in the first version.

There are some pretty decent cheap bike lights available on eBay, but they have the disadvantage that the battery packs are not waterproof, they're just shrink wrapped and tossed into a cheap nylon bag.

This thing as designed holds a standard 4 cell 18650 pack, which is the most common one. The SCAD can be modified to hold other sized packs.

It includes a strain relief for the wire which has a kink in it to crimp the wire so that a tug on the wire should not rip the wire loose from the battery pack inside.

Also includes a pair or rails that will keep the pack centered on a tube of the bike.

Customisable low profile Terminal Cover for the Power Supply commonly used with the Bukobot and other 3d printers. Includes power socket, flexible power out connection support, switch and power LED without compromising safety or style.

A telescopic adjustable mount for a Z axis endstop microswitch

All components are integrated in the base element.

Note! Reverse belt mounting - teeth inside.

A simple easy-to-print Organizer.
My wife is happy about it!

Update
Added OrgBoxB18: 18.5mm high.

Update 2
Added OrgBoxTest.

This is a waste-bin lid for your old take-out soup containers. I frequently use them as little desktop trash for post-its and support material.

Miniture Piston Keychain has been modeled to have very low clean up required by adding supports & radii. I also separated the bigend to aid printing plus I think the little bolts give it a cool mechanical feel.

Parts Required:
1) 2x M3 x 10mm socket head cap screws.
2) 2x M3 nuts.

All should be available from a hardware store or fastening supply store.