This nice, easy to print vase will be a nice gift for friend or family to come along with some nice flowers!

A pull string helicopter that flies well and is easy to assemble.


ABS is the recommended material for best part survival.

As requested SolidWorks 2011 source files are posted. Blade profiles are not optimized. Try to design better shapes that can be easily printed without support and upload your progress!

.:BIG HEART:.

Heart gears supersized - pump up the volume 600% baby!

Emmett's Heart Gears scaled linearly by 180% for maximum loving. The largest part is 12x12x7.5cm. The layout was tweaked and I pushed some polygons for slightly better slicing.

A big RepRap style 3D Printer. The current build volume is about 700x700x500mm - where this needs to be improved since the footprint is more than 1m³.

Have a look at blog.teil3.ch/category/Hardware/bigBot (german)

Watch printing vimeo.com/42721328

Get all the project files (inclusive scad): github.com/teil3/bigBot

This nice thing attaches to your Dremel and lets you make your own M8 knurled bolts for your extruder. Technically speaking it's a "spiked" bolt, not a knurled one, but it's close enough. :) And yes, the name is supercheesy, but I like it anyway.

I made this because the standard Ultimaker knurled bolt doesn't fit the extruder I'm currently designing.

It's modelled in 3dsmax, so no openscad files, sorry :( If anybody wants to make a parametric version be my guest.

This derivative of Greg's Wade Extruder collects all the best ideas and latest features and improvements:

* Greg's excellent "Guidler" for perfectly lined up filament feed AND easy access of the hobbed bolt
* Tiltable idler-screws for opening the idler without removing the screws entirely
* 4mm elevation of whole extruder body/bolt/motor mount to allow slightly bigger 9/47 herringbone gears
* 2mm extra bolt-motor-distance for the same reason
* M4 nuts and screws for idler, since M3 screws in more than 60mm length are sometimes hard to source (at least in the common hardware stores of northern germany..)
* Well, 9/47 herringbone gears!
* All nut-traps have been corrected for correct fit (all prusa parts seem to use slightly wrong sizes.. should be 5.5mm wrench size for M3 nuts, I changed all of them to the right ISO values with additional 0.2mm clearance. Fits great for a precisely calibrated prusa)
* Additional hotend-mount option "reprapfaborg" for Stoffel15's great hotends that use 10mm shaft diameter of 20mm length (shown on one of the pictures as a cut-view); you can get one via reprap-fab.org
* 8mm thickness of motor mount (instead of 10mm) in reference to wider herringbone gear

I made STL-exports for these three hotend-mounts:
* groovemount
* jhead mount
* reprap-fab.org

My configurations were made for 0.25mm layerheight (using 0.35mm nozzle), so if you're using larger values please change the parameter in the SCAD and export your own STL. Otherwise the support-layers of bearing-hole and idler mount may not be sliced correctly.

Enjoy!


UPDATE 2012-03-12:

As Zarquon requested via comments, I uploaded a SAE compatible version of the groovemount-extruder-body as well as the big gear. Actually I simply replaced the parameters for M3/M4/M8 nuts to the values Zarquon submitted. Please leave a comment if something still doesn't fit.

UPDATE 2012-03-16:

* Added gear-sided nut traps for GRRF hotend mount in the main wade SCAD file
* Uploaded additional small gear STL for 4.2mm center hole diameter as requested by pharaohabq in the comments

UPDATE 2012-03-26:

* Added new parameter "less_idler_bolt_dist" to adjust distance between idler and hobbed bolt, in case the idler isn't exactly vertical when tightened but slightly angled towards to hobbed bolt, which could cause the spring loaded screw to popp off the slots to the top of the idler. Default is "0", adjust for your own requirements if neccesary.

I never had any luck hobbing a bolt using the tap method. When I used my rotary tool by hand, the teeth came out uneven.

This work in progress jig should allow for either a 8mm, or 5/16" bolt (or rod with nut) to be indexed to 19 positions. The ratchet head was edited from this excellent thing: thingiverse.com/thing:8752

I put up a short 30 second video of this jig being used. I was holding the camera, and using the rotary tool and making sparks fly all at the same time. With some practice, I feel I will be able to make many bolts for my army of 3D printers.

youtu.be/KpnZK_AJLgM

- Edit -

The idea for this thing came to me after seeing many great ways/things to hob bolts. (That and after the snow I didn't want to go out to the cold work shed) My thing is an amalgamation of many of the ideas found here on Thingiverse:

thingiverse.com/thing:9291
thingiverse.com/thing:10360
thingiverse.com/thing:10110
thingiverse.com/thing:11275

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot.

This firmware took approx 5 months to write / test.

Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.

This Motherboard firmware upgrade enables acceleration with GCode support. No LCD interface required.

Supports: ThingOMatic, Cupcake, Reprap and Others.

Video showing an acceleration comparison: youtube.com/watch?v=AY6_h80hKOI

** NEW ** Firmware Manual: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware

This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: acceleration, mood light and buzzer support.

Feature list: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc3

Requirements: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc1

Latest Changes: (Version 3.4 - 05/20/12): wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc66

Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.

Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

I don't know if this should be considered a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:591 or not. It was inspired by it but I started from scratch because I wanted to do it in openscad.
You can adjust the size and tweak the dimensions of the various parts of the lego in the openscad file.
There are probably bugs, it's a work in progress.
A real lego snaps into the bottom pretty well, not as well on top.

Cookie cutters, including the star of Bethlehem, cow, donkey, sheep, camel, angel, Joseph, Mary, manger and a king.

This is derived from nopheads Mendel Pulley with captive M3 nut, but has been redrawn in openscad, and added more nuts for extra grip.

This part is also part of my OverlapStrap project which is licenced under GPLv3 see: gilesbathgate.com/OverlapStrap/
or checkout using

git clone http://www.gilesbathgate.com/OverlapStrap.git

This is a derivative of my 2 Liter bottle to 1/4 NPT adapter with giant Tom Swift style fins. The adapter is designed to let you quickly turn an ordinary house hold pop (soda) bottle into a projectile by adding water and air pressure. the 1/4 NPT quick disconnect gives you a simple and easy way to add air pressure and also works as a launch mechanism when you release the collar.

In all honesty this is a bit impractical as the fins are huge and brittle and the purpose of this object is to be launched sky high and fall back uncontrolled to smash into the ground, but I had to print one up, what's life without whimsy?

I really wanted one of Iwo's ducted cooling fan ( thingiverse.com/thing:5756 ), but only had a 40mm fan, so I printed his thing, then made an adapter ring to fit my junk box 40mm fan.

Top-plate for the X Axis Stepper on the TOM.
I noticed that with all the Adjustments on the X axis tension, my wood began to warp and crack a bit around the channels. Especially around the T-Slot for the left side.
This plate should reinforce the wood making things sturdier.
Also a tensioner is integrated for making belt tension adjustments without disassembly.

This design uses countersunk M3 bolts rather than the stock ones in order to allow a thicker ABS Plate. This will provide more strength with the same height.

I liked it so much I put one on the Y axis too.

I just noticed there is a similar design here on thingiverse:
thingiverse.com/thing:11502

I needed something to print with my lovely new safety orange filament.
So, what better thing than a traffic cone?

This is my redesign of the famous whistle. I made the pea more round and the body a bit thinner. I also put the pea where it is easier to break off. It now makes the staccato whistle sound.

A tiny toy dump truck, no assembly required.

Captive wheels and dump box.

Inspired by toy tanker truck by jag thingiverse.com/thing:5273

The picture shows the series of intermediate designs.

I really wanted one of Iwo's ducted cooling fan ( thingiverse.com/thing:5756 ), but only had a 40mm fan, so I printed his thing, then made an adapter ring to fit my junk box 40mm fan.

I had a hard time seeing if my stepper was moving so I made this. It’s actually quit fun to watch.

The delrin plunger, while an elegantly simple idea, bothers me a little because of the added drag on the filament. Even more so with the stepper driven mk6 extruder since for me at least there seems to be a pretty fine line between having it tight enough and too tight such that you are losing steps.
Like jstkatz and his thingiverse.com/thing:7037 I didn't like having the 4 screws and springs. I wanted something a little little simpler and could more easily pivot out of the way.
jstkatz's design definitely came out a little more elegant but functionally I think they are pretty similar (except mine uses the mk6 nema 17 motor).

MK6 cooler you just can slide in when needed.
Fits 40x40 mm fan.

This is a removable, levelable and ball bearing mounted X axis.

unfortunately thingiverse allows only one ancestor. but this thing has 3 ancestors:
- thingiverse.com/thing:9420
- thingiverse.com/thing:8158
- thingiverse.com/thing:9094

This time convex...

This time convex...

Endcaps for the ToM. These replace the stock ones with a similar design having a cutout for the included shim. This allows the y-axis rods to be quickly removed without having to unscrew 8 fasteners to get them out. Packaged as a plate for the ToM with 2 endcaps and 2 shims.

I liked the levelling vertex by Ahasuerus thingiverse.com/thing:5703 and wanted a similar one to use on the top of mendel like a matching set, so I created this by adapting a 3D model from Marcus' thing.

The resulting part is 13mm thick and prints easily with no noticeable warp issues.

Linear Bearing Carriage X Axis LMB6UU NOT LM8UU as I originally put here
I found some LMB6UU (SW06UU in US) linear bearings for £4.50 each, so tried them as a direct replacement for the bushes on the Y Axis based on thing thingiverse.com/thing:9114 by splod, they worked so well that I created an X Axis carriage for them and here it is if anyone would like to try it.

People in the UK can get them from worldofcnc.com/products.asp?recnumber=167 or get them from eBay ALOT cheaper

Update:
I printed the ABP version and found a miscalculation in the end bolt holes; these are corrected in the _FIXED versions of the STL and SCAD files

After much pain trying to level with springs and to to hold the tolerance the TOM can print. I designed in ST3 a platform leveler that can level at easy to .001 of an inch and less. This design allows you to get to all four corners and easly and to ajust them to the right height and lock them into place.

I uploaded STP files of all the parts for those who have requested a file they can change or manipulate. STP and IGES files are pretty much universial in the 3D world so most should be able to read them in. I designed the parts in Solid Edge ST3 so the virgin files are done in this. If someone needs a different format send me a note and I will do my best to help.

Update: Please use JinxTheRabbit's version of the HBP Leveler Part1 A.stl part it prints much better than mine! Please down load his version at
thingiverse.com/thing:13023 he added a raft to the support and it works great!

Note: I added IGES file of complete HBP assembly so folks can have access to all the parts and change them to there liking.

Most of us want to hack into our TOM and, to do so, we need to open it up. There are so many wires in there that it is difficult to completely remove the top cover. These legs are made to hold the top of the Makerbot while you are playing in it.

After my gearless follow focus,
here a geared one.
Swapping the lens is not as easy as it is with the gearless one and you need a lens-gear for every lens but you also need no pressure to create friction.
The follow focus and lens gear are compatible with industry standard 0.8 pitch follow focus equipment.
The axis use 608 bearings to reduce any noise of threaded rods on plastic that could be picked up by the microphone and to make this run as smooth as possible.
The mounting is for an industry standard 15mm rail support system such as
my 3d printed shoulder rig:

thingiverse.com/thing:7278

With a follow focus you have precise, manual control over the focus (or zoom) of your lens.
It is used for professional filming where precise control of the focus is required and where a pumping autofocus would simply ruin the take.
Commercial versions are sadly terribly expensive. :(

Photos:

picasaweb.google.com/Marcus.Wolschon/201105_201106_geared_follow_focus?feat=directlin
Blog post:

marcuswolschon.blogspot.com/2011/06/3d-printed-geared-follow-focus.html

Video (Part I)

youtube.com/watch?v=imy2UaUzNeY

Update: (2011-07-17)
Added lens_gear_version3 with a wider tap for the bolt.