Beanie is a transformer that can turn into a car. He can also launch his head off! Just pull the rack puller and his head flies off, hence the name "Beanie"

The Bearing Launcher uses a magnet and some neat physics to fire a steel bearing. It can fire three consecutive shots and features a manually-operated self-aligning three-chambered, revolving ejector (or MOSATCRE) for easily retrieving the "trigger" bearing from the barrel after each shot.

They said it couldn't be done. They said it shouldn't be done. But I did it.

I created "The Walking Dead."

Its just a simple shell for the MakerBot windup bodies, but hey it's a start in the wrong direction.

Update:

Stephen Colbert mold V2 released
*About 1/2 the plastic to print
*Rubber band slots added
*Easier Parting lines



Chocolate Bunnies are great.... But how about a Chocolate Colbert? Make him with Dark or white Chocolate.

This MendelMax inspired printer is compact, lightweight, and totally self contained. Nothing protrudes beyond the frame. Z axis motors are mounted low, and thrust bearings carry the weight. Note that the z axis uses the aluminum extrusion for a guide, saving space and expense. The linear bearings and belt and pulley upgrades give high quality prints. All dimensions are chosen so that you can use 4 smooth rods and 2 threaded rods, plus all other parts from you mendel.
All parts are easy to print without support. The 60 W onboard power supply runs the motors and extruder heater. The heated bed used a 120 vac and a solid state relay. The extruder is very accessible. The heatsinks on the extruder are optional, but help keep thing cool when printing ABS.

See BOM and exploded veiw of X axis below

I added a pdf of an exploded frame drawing 1/19/12

Wire clips and T-slot cover for Misumi extrusions are at thingiverse.com/thing:16344

Below is a zipped archive of all the Inventor source files.

Full BOM added per several requests.

.stp files added.

See video of this printer at youtu.be/JysNv3Hi67k

This Mk7 replacement features a spring-tensioned, quick-release 623 bearing idler, and won't interfere with dualstrusion. The back is also open to make it easy to clean the teeth of the drive gear.

This works with MBI's Mk7 and QU-BD's MBE extruders. It will fit the Mk8 as well, but the Replicators have plates above the extruders that will interfere with the spring arm. There are several derivatives that solve this problem, most at the expense of the rear clean-out opening.

The best shaft for the bearing seems to be an M3x10mm flat-head screw, inserted from the motor side of the idler piece. A piece of 3mm filament should also work in a pinch.

"I used to be a reprapper like you, then I took an arrow in the knee".

Now you can fake a knee related arrow injury with this exclusive prosthesis! (Will also work for most other body parts).

It comes with everything you need to make your own arrow as well. The .scad file is somewhat parametric so you can tweak it to fit your needs. The holes are 9-10mm, and you can change out the arrow itself with a twig or a dowel if you prefer.

Before anyone complains about the color of my print, let's just say my printed arrow is supposed to be a glass arrow.

I'd love to see someone print this and put in a proper arrow, though. :)

If you are clueless about this whole thing, take a look here: knowyourmeme.com/memes/i-took-an-arrow-in-the-knee

Inspired by Bre's Moon crater, I thought, why not the whole moon?

This thing is a bump mapped sphere that uses the planetary map data/images from here:
johnstonsarchive.net/spaceart/cylmaps.html

Specifically, I used this one:
johnstonsarchive.net/spaceart/moonbumpmap2.jpg

I essentially used the same bump mapping technique I used on this bowl: thingiverse.com/thing:13991

That is, use the picture as a height map. Use that height map to displace the vertices around the sphere. At the same time, use the image to colorize the thing as well, if you want extra reality.

Now came the special part. Since I had the moon in my hands, I wanted to split it open and see what it was made of, answering that age old question once and for all.

So, I cracked it open, and found that it was in fact hollow! No green men, no Amazonian women, no cheese, nothing, just a void. Unlike answering the Easter Bunny question, this was quite a let down.

And lastly, since I was exploring the surface using MeshLab, I finally found the man in the moon. You can see him highlighted in red smiling back at us.

This has got to be great for science exploration!

A bit about the .stl files. I used Banate CAD to generate the models directly. The full moon has roughly 500,000 vertices, and double that in terms of faces. The partial moon has double the number of vertices because it has to generate the 'inside' as well as the outside. Each one took about 40-50 seconds to generate on my standard issue 3 year old Phenom II based machine. The generation time has more to do with the number of vertices than any other complexities. The routines create the normals for each face, whether they're needed or not, so this time could probably be cut in half in cases where you don't really need the normals, but it would not look nice when you render.

To generate any spherical thing, you would just change one line of code in the .fab file:

local heightsampler = ImageSampler.new({
Filename='moonbumpmap2_720_360.png',
Size = size,
Resolution = res,
MaxHeight=16,
})

Change "Filename = '...'",
to be whatever file you so happen to want to bump map.

This is the quick and dirty form of Bump/Height mapping. There are two things that should be done to improve the quality of such things. First, I'm doing a straight translation from the height map to a height value. What I should really be doing is taking an average, so you don't see such artifacting. The other thing is, for a sphere, there are better ways to apply a texture than to simply wrap the rectangle. By wrapping the rectangular image to the sphere, you lose something at the poles. I need better images which account for the spherical nature.

But hay, for changing just a single line of code, this is not a bad technique.

At the heart of oomlout lie a lot of spreadsheets. We're not proud of this fact, but we have decided to start embracing it. When agressivly spreadsheet'ing it's often neccesary to have many sheets open at once. Having outgrown dual monitors we searched for a solution. Finding nothing easily purchasable we decided to build our own dual monitor stand.

(more details and how to build your own: oomlout.co.uk/?p=429 )

Added a toroidal radial taper to the design, so that it would fit our little hand-held vacuum. Basically, it's taller in the middle than on the edges.

The scad is configured to print part of a hand-held vacuum, replacing an injection-molded part that blew apart under use. Also added variables to make the center hollow, which seems to improve suction, and of course sized it up for the vac in question, a Shark 18v Cordless.

With my hero Alan Turing's centenary coming next year, I thought he would make an ideal subject for an experimental 3D-printed lithophane en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithophane.

While Litho-Alan makes a wonderful window decal, he is really just a proof-of-concept that you could add to things like lampshades and candle holders. The nice thing about lithophanes is that you only need a black-and-white picture as the source, not a full 3D model.

Craftsmen and artisans of the pre-industrial era would often personalize their work, perhaps with a picture of the patron who commissioned the piece. With 3D printing we are able to make just one of something and to tailor it specifically to one person.

Another feeble box of Lucky Charms cereal? No problem, create that most excellent bowl with charms in every bite with this Charms Sifter. The holes are sized to catch most charms, you should be able to sift > 90% of them.

Please note: Diabetic supplies not included.

This is a simple demo object. It has gears on shafts inside a shell and would require internal support structures that would be pretty difficult to remove without support that dissolves.

Update: It worked! I've had trouble getting PVA to stick to ABS, however it sticks pretty well to PLA when you extrude both at around 210c. Here's a video:

flickr.com/photos/tbuser/6733182253/

Update 2013-02-04:

Also works with dissolvable HIPS filament supporting ABS. See: flickr.com/photos/tbuser/8522775217/in/photostream

By carefully adjusting the geometry in a model so that a darker color is under a lighter color by a certain number of layers, it creates a simple color blending effect. With black and white ABS plastic, this allows about 3 or 4 shades of gray between all black and all white. Unfortunately, the effect is minimal on the sides of objects, but on top and bottom it's quite clear. On the side you get about 1 shade of gray between black and white.

This openscad script lets you generate test patterns. By default, it's configured for 0.3 layer height and 1.6 width/thickness. You'll need to modify it based on your skeinforge settings. I bet at higher resolutions with smaller layer heights, you could achieve a greater range.

I bet you could do some really interesting blending if you used translucent PLA! Unfortunately I don't have any 1.75mm PLA filament to test... also, I've only tried this with black and white ABS, but I'm pretty sure it would work with other colors so long as the lighter color is on top.

Note: this test object has an extra layer on top because there's currently a bug with repg dualstrusion where it doesn't print the top layer.

Data Matrix bar code goes to my website tonybuser.com Picture shows top and bottom of single object printed simultaneously with dual extruders, no midprint filament color swapping.

Data Matrix created with Data Matrix Dualstrusionator: thingiverse.com/thing:12104

Face and text/logo created in inkscape and converted to dxf using this process: tonybuser.com/2d-to-3d

Yes, quality is a little rough at the moment with dual extrusion... but it's mostly a software problem to work out how best to keep nozzles from drooling between colors, skeinforge bugs with stl files with shapes inside shapes causing bad perimeter/infill, and there's a bug that causes the top layer not to print... That's why it's experimental - living on the edge!

This is a calibration set that includes three circles, and is meant to be used to calibrate as many settings as possible at once.

One circle is solid to replace a calibration cube (print at 100% infill), one has only a thin wall, and one has a slightly thicker wall with a bridge covering the top. All three are printed at once, which lets you to test your reversal settings and also gives the parts time to cool while the others are printing.

I've been using this set for a while (every time I need to recalibrate for some reason), and it seems to test more characteristics faster than any other set I've tried.

I needed a new profile image. While I'm proud of the project that lead to my former "TV face" image, it didn't really say "Thingiverse"

Having just successfully created a 3 color bottle opener, I knew the time for a multi-color portrait had come.

This is my first attempt at mashing colors together on the same layer like this. I'm really happy with the results. Hopefully others will take this technique and run with it. Turns out you don't need dual extruders to make a multi-colored part!

tv-face: brettbeauregard.com/blog/tag/hdtv-mount/
3 color opener: brettbeauregard.com/blog/2011/09/three-color-3d-print/

Hello my name is Pablo Ferro.
This is my robot. The Mark II.


My dream is to have a 3d printer so I hope you like it.

I have no experience whatsoever in 3d printing and STL file format so I need you people to check the file and tell me if it´s ok. Thanks.

Derivate of yoda bust from bmoshe: thingiverse.com/thing:10650

I thought one should take on the effort to give the awesome yoda-bust some body and legs...

there was only one solution for me XD

This is a 3D scale replica of the United States, the state height corresponds to the number of electoral votes each state controls in a presidential election. I thought it could be a fun visual tool for learning about U.S. politics.

Also included in this thing is a flat 2D Sketchup map of the U.S. suitable for resizing, extruding, scaling, puzzle making, you name it!

More about this project in my blog post here: thenewhobbyist.com/2011/09/3d-printing-for-the-classroom/

Reprap Branded Double helix

Can be printed without support, if your bridges are up to the challenge.

Included Solidworks source files.

This has been the ultimate project for me, and is now finally functional after 8 months of blood, sweat and ABS.
It is also made on my 3d printed makerbot ( thingiverse.com/thing:3285 )

The printer can easily get taller by adding more z-elements and replacing z lead-screws and wobble arrester bars. I would then end up with almost 800mm build hight.

It wouldn't surprise me if this is the largest printed multi-piece object, as it is built from 15+ lbs of ABS plastic.

Specs
Footprint: 800x560
Build envelope: 500x300x200+
Platform: Heated with 800W, custom ordered, silicone wire wound element.
- Kapton sheet, custom ordered to fit platform (500x300)
Motors: NEMA 23
Extruder: MakerBot Stepstruder® MK6 Plus
Electronics: MakerBot® Generation 4
Interface: PC/Mac or MakerBot® Gen 4 Interface Board Kit v1.1
Motion: all axis uses linear bearings for smooth motion.

Build duration: 8 months
Plastic used: 15+ lbs
Price: 3000$ (approx.)

Video of the printer in action: youtube.com/watch?v=Cx2OUO-aSFQ

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laurie_anderson

In the spirit of "accessible" this is a top filament guide for the Accessible Wade's that you can flip out of the way for unobstructed access to the feeder. It is only secured by the front tension bolt so it can be removed altogether with minimum fuss.

While installed it helpfully guides your filament toward the hobbed bolt and takes the load of any filament feed tube you are using.

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

360 degree 3D laser scanner.

Still a work in progress, but I wanted to post what I have so far.

The latest version can be found at github.com/tbuser/spinscan_turntable

I'm also working on software at github.com/tbuser/spinscan

Checkout the spinscan tag to see examples of scanned stuff: thingiverse.com/tag:spinscan

As if playing the trumpet weren't already cool enough, make it a little cooler with a built-in mustache!

MakerBot Industries co-founder.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MakerBot_Industries

When I saw thingiverse.com/thing:9383 by PacManFan I remembered that I also was playing a little bit with lead screws, auges, whatever but "I forgot" to upload it...

It has been hard to find back most of the parts I was printing and using to do those tests and it has been really hard to find the OpenSCAD file that I upload here. I have hundreds of them.

I've choose this OpenSCAD because is the most complete one and the one that is less hardcoded (but still quite a shame). I've put some effort to clean it here and there but still there's no warranty at all that it will work fine.

No warranty neither that the stl provided will fit properly, I think that they should but... who knows????

This time I don't have extra pictures to show (my pleasure), instead I have this video... youtube.com/watch?v=a-4naMl-TOQ

I just hooked up the motors to bot1334 and ask it to build one stl via RepG.

The lead screw provided has a travel per turn of 36mm and I was not modifying the machines.xml to adjust to real sizes.