A customizable magnetic clip. I use it to close bread bags.

Salt dispencer

I designed this tool to help crease paper when doing papercrafting or origami. It works much better than trying to use your finger or a bone folder since it doesn't slide across the paper.

The only vitamin needed is a bearing, a printable pin holds the bearing in place.

This magnet toy is great for exploring geometric shapes and the awesome power of MAGNETS. It is inspired by natural geometry and buckyballs, which are way too much fun. Unless you eat them. DO NOT EAT THE MAGNETS.

The heringbone gear bearings are hard to print in good quality and small sizes. Ball bearings are not fully printable because the balls will never be round. So i tried a roll bearing.

Print 8 bearings and a skateboard: thingiverse.com/thing:83738

A real ball bearing needs a cage to separate the balls. So I changed my first ball bearing ( thingiverse.com/thing:56298 ) to 8 balls and added a cage.
I was a little suprised that the cage really improves the function of the bearing.
You can see the difference in this video:
youtube.com/watch?v=CCsoIQ4pXQ4

If you want to print this bearing you will need a well calibrated printer. Use a layer hight of 0.1mm. After printing all parts (and the cage in particular) must be deburred perfectly.

This is a Capo for Ukulele based on the Capodastre by hairygael thingiverse.com/thing:8554

This is a work in progress. I want to add removable string pads so I can Capo two, three or four strings, just by changing the pad.

Small clip that snap on to spools and holds the end of the filament to prevent it from unraveling. There are several versions, should work with spools from the following suppliers:

Octave
Up!
Ultimachine
3DD

Inspired by the tropical and vibrant coral reefs of Palm Beach, this cuff features complex Voronoi patterns that embody a beautiful coral structure. The coral patters on this design make up a single-layer band and includes an opening to allow minimal stretching for easy wearing. The coral band bevels outward making it look more like a torus ring. This makes an excellent demo print for any home FDM 3D Printer and makes a wonderful gift.

This is a little UFO I designed for a game. It has three little holes in the body so that it can be hung from fishing line

This was derived from the Sphere thing which I'd designed.
Designed a LED holder to attach 2x LED to a CR2016 button battery.
Have fun!

This is a 340mm diameter prototype VAWT that's intended to be a scalable demonstrator. It accommodates 3 blades which are stolen directly from scrap vinyl vertical blinds. (Yes, those ugly fat ones that hang) You just take the single blinds and insert them in to the slots. I put a dab of 2-part epoxy to keep them in place, but the fit is tight. The blade arms attach via 3x 3mm screws or bolts. The central hub is sized to use a 7/16 shaft (I use 1/2" threaded rod that's cut down with a lathe in just the right place so I can put a 1/2" nut below to support the turbine). Note that there's a 20-tooth gear face on the hub, if you'd like to drive a mechanism- though I doubt you'll power more than landscaping lights until this is optimized. That being said, I have included the solidworks part files so that you can change the blade angle, etc. if you'd like. Oh, and you could print more than one set and drive a multi-tiered version with really long blinds if you like!

There are two different kinds of lures here for you to land that next river monster!
These are based on my adventures with small and large mouth bass and pike.
They require metal hardware and treble hooks that you can buy at your local bait shop, BassPro, Canadian Tire, etc.
They should be printed as one piece so using support and a raft is a must. If they aren't solid enough you could loose your catch or worse your custom lure!
Lure #1 is a surface lure that you jerk to make it pop like a frog or surface fish to generate a strike. It works best at the edge of a reed bed or where there is relatively shallow, weedy water. It has a one piece body that should be printed fairly solid but with some hollows to make it float. I am thinking 60% solidity would be solid enough to accept the hardware with good thread purchase but still be buoyant enough to float.
Lure #2 has a jointed body to make it wiggle like a minnow with a spoon to make it dive. This can mimic the look of a freshly wounded fish or the motion can generate a strike! It works well on medium to deeper water. The body would benefit from being printed with 100% solidity and be used on a line tied directly to the eyelet.
Painting is up to you. The fancy lures in the stores are for our benefit but the fish respond to some basic rules. Shape and silhouette are important. Fish are pretty much colour blind but flashing metallic colours are good to get their attention so a base of silver with clear model paint sounds like a good formula. Try to render markings similar to local fish, they recognize each other and are smarter than you think! ;)
I will keep you up to date on my results with this one! Heading up to try them out in a couple of weeks for the river monsters but in the interim I am printing and painting some for the trip and will post some pictures before I leave!
Fish ON!

A textured Sphere with a Reaction-Diffusion simulation of 2 chemicals.

The relief parts are 3mm thick while the cavities are 1.5mm thick thus allowing more light to pass than thru the relief lines - creating a stunning canals Lamp Shade.

Size: 150x150x144mm
Thickness: 1.5~3mm

At the base there is a 40mm cut-hole to mount your lamp stand.
Use 40W bulb or 3W LED.

Dizingof
3dizingof.com

Beco Blocks are 3d printable, snap together, ball and socket based building blocks.

Initially created as a prototype for another ball and socket based project, these blocks functioned so well I decided to make a number of variations to allow the creation of more complex objects.

Created at Robots and Dinosaurs, the Sydney, Australia hackerspace.
robotsanddinosaurs.org/

I wanted to print out one of those nifty gear rings for a friend, but my printer can't handle detail that fine, and PLA isn't strong enough for those tiny gear teeth anyway. So I redesigned it from scratch for a larger scale, a bracelet instead of a ring, for something my printer could print.

This piece is held together purely by friction and spring pins - no glue or screws required. It should also be printable on nearly any machine, even if you only have a 120mm bed. Mine was printed in PLA, but ABS should work too.

Parts of the design were based on the involute gear SCAD and Emmet's locking pin design. The parts were all drawin in Autocad - I have no openscad source files to share.

Update - reworked all the files to be easier to assemble and less likely to spring apart when you rotate the rings. Also, I have updated the autocad drawing files used to create the stl files.

Yet Another Tool Holder - this time specifically for the Replicator 2. Starting from the left, this tool holder has room for digital callipers, the hex wrench set, a pair or scissors (for trimming filament), a 0.1 mm feeler gauge and/or a points file, super lube, and a toothbrush (for cleaning the extruder head).

UPDATE (Feb, 26th 2013)

Added a BLANK version, including STEP files so you can add your own custom slots for your own tools.

Is friction giving you the blues? BB King is here to help!

This is a proof-of-concept print to evaluate using standard BB bullets as the rolly bits in a 3D printed bearing. I'll be using what I learned from this in some projects I have coming up!

VIDEO: youtu.be/3pl6-AXtWZY

I'm using 6 mm plastic BB bullets and I printed my prototype in ABS at .1 mm layer height, 10% in-fill and with 3 shells on my original Replicator.

I had to scale the model up a hair and that is reflected in my THING file. The STL files are original scale.

ENJOY!

n-Sphere Tiles
Designed as an educational toy for my son, the n-Sphere toy is a little puzzle box with no wrong answers. The sphere can be assembled any combination of 6 tiles oriented in any rotation and will always yield a continuous topology of ridges and grooves along the outer surface.
This version is designed with a flat base surface so no support needed with the makerbot.

Version 2 updated for Medium Resolution prints at:
thingiverse.com/thing:88003

Full spherical shell version available at:
Original (baseball size): [apx. $69]
shapeways.com/shops/na?section=n-Sphere+Full&s=0

Mini (racquetball size): [apx. $39]
shapeways.com/shops/na?section=n-Sphere+Mini&s=0

Micro (golf ball size): ]apx. $21]
shapeways.com/shops/na?section=n-Sphere+Micro&s=0

A friend lent me his buddha frog statue. I used 123d catch, meshmixer, and netfabb to create the model.

Update: The original stl did not sit flat on the bed. The new stl does.

An articulated Trilobite to print and assemble. (If you like Trilobites - have a look at 4MULE8's beautifully organic Comura Articulatum thingiverse.com/thing:60521 )

Unlike the fossil ones you see in museums, you can have fun flexing and rolling this trilobite up - bit like a woodlouse (or pill bug.) It makes a satisfying clacking noise if you ripple the segments.

You can make baby trilobites by using just the smaller body sections. Whole trilobite families, or even armies, can be yours for the printing.

This creature is very inquisitive and can often be seen peering over people's monitors or shoulders.

Jasonwebb has done a short video (with sound) showing it moving vimeo.com/47692125 and Busybotz has kindly included it in one of his excellent 3D printing videos youtube.com/watch?v=LGNg37Fc584 (starts at ~3:08) and 3dprintblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/3d-printed-parts-assembled-and.html (starts at ~1:45).


I'm thinking about other designs of body (with spikes), head (more plate-like, and with more spines) and tail (spikes, and more spikes). Comura looks fun en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:WLA_hmns_Trilobite_Comura_sp.jpg

If you're interested in trilobites, Richard Fortey's book "Trilobite! - eyewitness to Evolution" ( amazon.co.uk/dp/0006551386 ) is a great read; and I found trilobites.info/ fascinating, especially the eyes section trilobites.info/eyes.htm

I've included a photo of the fossil trilobite that gave me the idea to make a stylised, flexible version.

This hinge is designed to connect drink straws together, allowing for the construction of articulated straw scultpures!

Use 'em as chopsticks, use 'em as tongs. With springy action!

Many of us have been frustrated to discover that the pins for emmett's Screwless Cube Gears are not PLA compatible. They are too stiff, and in my experience, attempting to force them in can crack the pins and damage the piece itself.

So I set about trying to design some alternative pins for PLA. My first attempt was to make flexible end tabs, but while this worked, the cube gear axle is too short to support this approach. In the next attempt, I altered the internal structure of the tip of the pin to make it more flexible for PLA and redesigned the protrusions.

These new pins were designed using an ACIS solid in Shark FX (sfx file included) so will behave well with Makerware, ReplicatorG and skeinforge. They snap into place with moderate force and rotate freely.

Having problems with your first layer surface finish? Is it clumpy, stringy and inconsistent? Use this interactive single layer print to fine tune your build plate adjustment. Works like a charm!

UPDATE Jan 19 2013

I have uploaded a new shape to try which provides an area over each level adjuster.

This extruder upgrade for the Replicator 2 replaces the Delrin plunger with a pinch
roller. Using the spring specified in the parts list below, this pinch roller provides about 60N of force on the filament, which provides enough driving pressure on the filament, in combination with the stepper drive gear to prevent stripping.

Unlike other designs, this one uses a pin style bush on which the pinch arm rotates. This provides a large lower friction surface for the pinch wheel arm to rotate on, and allows the mounting screw to be fully tightened so there is no chance of it working loose.

I have extensively tested this design, which has evolved through numerous iterations,
and I have also tested several different springs. With the specified spring I can hold the drive gear with my thumb and pull hard on the filament without it stripping, and its done numerous unattended prints with troublesome clear PLA filament - so I can confidently say it works.

UPDATE (Mar 4th 2013)
In v7 I have added a filament guide slot to the bottom of the backing plate. I added a spring channel to hold the spring in place and stiffen the backing plate. I redesigned the arm geometry to make it pivot better - compressed and uncompressed. I altered the pin so one side now holds the base plate down against the stepper motor.

This extruder upgrade was designed using an ACIS solid in Shark FX/ViaCAD (vc3 file included) so will behave well with Makerware, ReplicatorG and skeinforge. There are also STEP files that can be imported into other CAD programs.

Because a few of you have asked - Paypal donations graciously accepted - whpthomas at yahoo dot com

This smartly engineered design, with the unique funnel mouth shape, allows for air to flow out of the container you're using while allowing the material you're putting in to flow freely through the funnel unobstructed. The sleek design fits any kitchen or garage and will never cause a back up. The mouth of this funnel is designed to fit inside a 20 o.z. Gatorade bottom (as a size reference).

The red funnel shown in the pictures was printed on the following:
Printer - Type A Machines: Series 1
Resolution - 50 microns
Material - PLA
Dimensions - approx 5.2" H x 4.9" W(D)
Scale: Full scale of model .stl

If you would like to buy this item printed, visit my shop on shapeways.com @ shapeways.com/model/1069296

This is a vacuum forming machine that you can print. Which allows you to make a mold of your 3d printed object. I hope you like this and make one, you'll be able to pour chocolate in your mold or other things like urethane.

I really enjoyed Eric Young's design of his Secret Heart Box, but I didn't relish hunting down all the required parts to put it together. One thing I learned from designing the Blossoming Lamp is that it's entirely possible to 3D print complex, preassembled mechanisms without breaking the 45-degree rule. I took it as a challenge to show that it's possible even with something as seemingly complex as this locking heart box. See the video here: youtu.be/PPqLB-bv4gY

UPDATE: By popular demand, I've modified the customizer code so you can now add words to the top of the heart. Make sure your valentine knows it's just for them.

[Video](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9IBQVHFeQs).

In this unusual mechanism three gears mesh together in pairs, and yet they can turn!

If you take three ordinary gears and put them together so that each gear meshes with the other two, then none of the gears can turn because neighbouring gears must turn in opposite directions. Triple gear avoids this problem by having the three "gears" arranged like linked rings - the gears then rotate along skew axes, and the opposite direction rule no longer applies (although see also Oskar van Deventer's [Magic Gears](http://shpws.me/lrqz) for another possible solution).

This is joint work with Saul Schleimer. We were inspired by another of Oskar's designs, his [Knotted Gear](http://shpws.me/lmqP), which consists of two linked rings that gear with each other, and of course we wondered if it would be possible to do three linked rings!

[Paper](http://arxiv.org/abs/1304.6859) describing the mathematics behind the Triple gear, and how we designed it.

[Triple gear (solid)](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79310) is a non-hollow version, which should make it easier to produce on a home printer.

[Baseplate and axle for Triple gear](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:78218) is designed to work with this, and gives a way to drive the gears using a motor. For axles without the baseplate or motor fitting, see [15cm axle for Triple gear](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79768) and [30cm axle for Triple gear](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79781).

Triple gear is also available at [Shapeways](http://shpws.me/mQ6F).

Things that could be improved upon:

* Make the motion smoother
* Less wiggle room for the gears - at the moment they can move quite far out of the 3-fold symmetric position
* Can the gears be made to rotate at different speeds?