My simplified version of mendel. All axes are compatible with regular mendel. Actual information you can find on RepRap wiki reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel and most recent OpenSCAD source files are on my GitHub github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Last update is, that its working and its pretty darn good :-)

A (parametric) buckle that you can attach to your camera strap, which lets you (hopefully) stop losing your lens cap.

The STL is sized for a 58mm lens cap, and a ~40mm strap width.

The printing layers make for a great friction catch for the lens cap. But there's a designed-in lip overhang to make it a little more aggressive.

A swift holds a skein of yarn while it is being wound into a ball, so you don't have to fight it all the way.

If you're a hardcore knitter, you buy your yarn from hippy communes in faraway places, or you spin it yourself[1]. This gives you yarn in skeins - long loops that are good for dyeing, but non-trivial to knit with. To get it into a ball, you need someone or something to hold it and prevent tangles, while you do the winding by hand or with a ball winder. That's where the swift comes in: it holds a skein of yarn, and rotates gently on demand, allowing to you to unwind/rewind yarn as needed without requiring a large family to assist you.

The canonical example of a swift is the umbrella swift. Wikipedia has a picture: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swift_%28textiles%29 . We[2] wanted something similarly light, yet sturdy enough for the wildest of knitting parties.

The arms of the swift expand to the diameter required for the skein when you press the top disk downwards, at least 1.8m for the parts given here. It is mounted on a rod around which it can rotate freely, but with enough dampening to not over-wind. It just feeds you yarn on demand.

A video of the assembled swift: youtu.be/Rj0PEjT_9D4


[1] Disclaimer: we are not knitters, this is merely an observation.
[2] I'm not the only one, rspanton was also involved in this project thingiverse.com/user:902

Updated Design
Change Log - 12-04-2011
-Updated Spindle Base Design to Make Pockets Faceted for Easier Printing
-Updated Masters to Include New Spindle Base
-Added Counterbalance Hardware
-Removed WIP, Design Complete!

Change Log - 11-25-2011
-Yarn Guide Added
-Ball Winder Base Drawing Added
-Spindle Updated to Remove Mtl
-Spindle Base Updated to Remove Rounds & Add Support
-Carriage Updated to Remove Mtl & Add Spacer
-Spindle Updated to Add Support
-Updated all STL Files
-Added Creo (Pro/E) Native CAD Files
-Added Exploded Assembly Views
-Updated Parts/Fastener List

This printable wool winder creates center-pull balls from raw hanks of yarn, it must be used in combination with a yarn swift, I will work on a printable swift in the future.

I designed this winder for my mother who was having troubles with her current ball winder, a new equivalent winder was priced around $50. I felt like I could design and make a better winder for only a few $ in purchased parts (most I had around) and plastic. Plus I know how it works so if it breaks I can fix it.

The winders function is pretty simple but really fun to watch. The motion of the winder can be explained as such. The hand crank, when turned causes the center carriage mechanism to rotate around a stationary cone. The motion of the carriage in combination with the stationary cone causes the winding spindle to rotate about its axis. The winding spindle completes one rotation for every nine rotations of the hand crank. The dual spinning motion of the carriage and the spindle is what causes the yarn to take the form of a cylinder.

Video of the winder in action. youtu.be/iS2732Mlz7k

To build the winder you will need a few non-printable parts.

Qty 4 - 624ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 2 - 606ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 2 - 608ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 1 - Compression Spring, McMaster-Carr P/N 9435K93
Qty 1 - O-Ring Size -237, McMaster-Carr P/N: 9396K226
Qty 1 - O-Ring Size -254, McMaster-Carr P/N: 9396K245
Qty 1 - 1/4" PTFE Tubing, McMaster-Carr P/N: 5239K12
Qty 3 - M3 x 30mm SHCS
Qty 3 - M3 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M4 x 40mm SHCS
Qty 1 - M4 x 30mm BHCS
Qty 2 - M4 x 16mm SHCS
Qty 3 - M4 Flat Washer
Qty 2 - M4 NyLoc Hex Nut
Qty 2 - M5 x 25mm SHCS
Qty 2 - M5 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M6 x 40mm SHCS
Qty 1 - M6 Flat Washer
Qty 2 - M6 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M8 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M8 Threaded Rod (65mm Long)
Qty 2 - M10 Hex Nut
Qty 2 - M5 Acorn Nut
Qty 2 - M5 x 35mm FHCS
Qty 4 - 1/2" Tall Rubber Bumpers

Selector combs are used to move the needles on a knitting machine bed, in order to do certain patterns or stitches. A 1x1 comb is frequently used in casting on, and I made the 2x2 comb to make it easier to set up for 2x2 ribbing.

The points on each tooth fit into the needle grooves of the bed, making it easy to line things up.

These combs will work on any 5mm machine, which includes the White/Superba double bed machines. Eventually I want to make a script that lets you set the pitch, needle count, and pattern to automatically generate a cut file.

This is not the most efficient way to make a rigid heddle loom, but it works. There are definitely some parts that need some editing, the heddle needs to be stronger, as do the front and back round beams. Also, the openSCAD files should be parameterized to accomodate any sized loom and heddle.

The loom took a lot of time/plastic to print and I don't expect anyone else to print it, but it was a great way to learn some openSCAD and to combine two of my hobbies.

Adjusted the parameters for my 67mm lens cap and the 25mm wide portion of the BlackRapid R-Strap. I've also split the buckle portion to make it possible to clip the holder to the strap rather than feed it through the buckle (The R-Strap has a clip on the free end which makes it impossible to slide on).

I haven't stress tested the buckle, but it seems pretty secure.

I was afraid of my heating wires detaching because they were getting tangled on the x-stage and from all the movement of my heated build platform, so I made this attachment to relieve some of the stress.

The part is a little thick so that I could file it down to be a snug fit. The mounting features were added in OpenSCAD so you can adjust them if you need to.

See also jabella's clever paperclip solution: flickr.com/photos/jabella/4609979407/

The sensor wire broke on my heated build platform so I designed this to prevent it from happening again.

Nothing to see here. You really want version 3: thingiverse.com/thing:8252 (although this is still a good reference for the benefits of the accessible aspects.

**Version 2 now uploaded**. Generate STLs from the version 2 scad to get the version 2 changes. NOTE: To do this you must have configuration.scad from the prusa git repo in the same directory as gregs-wade-v2.scad so that bolt and nut sizes defined in that file can be used.

This is an extruder based strongly on the wades from the Prusa git repo. It has several features over the standard wade:

1. Accessible hobbing. If you strip the filament, there is no need to disassemble in any way (such as removing the idler/filament or bolt) in order to remove the stripped plastic from the hobbing. You can get a needle in the hole in the top and scrape it out.

2. The motor can be removed without removing the large gear. The three mounting screws can be accessed without removing the gear. 2 of them are clearly accessible and the other is accessible through a hole in the gear.

3. Slightly higher gear ratio than standard wade. This design uses 43:10 instead of 37:11.

4. The rotated motor mount means that the carriage attachment screw is accessible with the motor installed.

5. The rotated motor mount also means that the clearance past the idler attachment captive nuts is a bit longer, so you have a bit more play tensioning the idler.

6. The motor is far enough back from the face that the small gear can be mounted with the hub towards the motor (necessary with short shafted motors) and it will mesh with the large gear when there is only 1 washer between the bearing and the large gear.

7. The large gear has a shallow nut trap so that locking halfnuts can be used with hobbed threaded rod (infinitely adjustable hob alignment) rather than a bolt.

8. The motor mount screws are recessed allowing the large gear to be almost against the face of the extruder body.

9. It has sexy curves.

Things I still plan to do:
Add some options to the way the small gear mounts on the shaft. I have always had problems getting that right (hence thingiverse.com/thing:5213).

Version 2 Changes:
* Added the 4th idler screw hole.
* Moved the top captive nuts for the idler screws closer to the idler so that you can screw the idler bolts in further
* Made the motor mount slots go a further 1mm away from the hobbed bolt (as requested by spacexula)
* Added the framework for hotend mount supports (I still need people to tell me what their particular hotend mounting needs are). Each hotend defines its holes assuming that the extruder block is sitting vertical with the filament exit hole at [0,0,0]).

A white cube, which only shows the logo if the RGB LED is switched on.
You can find more details about it on ifeelbeta.de

The logo is from our new reprap related shop 2printbeta.de

Polygonal pieces designed for diffusing light in a truncated icosahedral lamp design.

I'm going for a the backlit space organism design, I like 6 and 6-5var8 best. The geometry will be like thingiverse.com/thing:6178, but the light will be on the inside.

The OpenSCAD script is included for completeness. There might be some useful modules you could repurpose, but this is not a parametric object. I tuned the parameters by hand separately for each part.

The pieces are compatible with other objects I've tagged with 'Elements'.

A fabric-based portable XY gantry. The two driving ideas behind the design are the way in which the string is wound in order to achieve two degrees of freedom, and the notion of 3D printing components with eyelets so that they can be sewn onto fabric.

The components were printed on a Dimension FDM machine with support material. Some post-processing was necessary to enlarge holes for bearing shafts and bearings. I'd imagine that you could print on a Makerbot and still get a useable component after additional post-print work. I'm using surplus gearhead motors which I found on ebay, but stepper motors could be easily adapted by changing the drive holder.


Additional information and media regarding the project can be found here:

newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?p=570

This is a dummy model of the Arcol.hu hot-end v3.0, because a hot-end can't be printed using plastic:)

You can print it to get a general feeling of the actual size. Also the mounting should be correct, so if you are working on your own machine, or new drive mechanism, you can adapt it easily by printing out this model.

The M3 bolt heads are commented out in the .scad file, to be printable.

I also added real photos for comparison.

You can read more about the hot-end itself at:
blog.arcol.hu/?p=1746
wiki.arcol.hu/arcol-hu-hot-end

I have modified Zaggo's original design to make the slot a lot bigger and square, it now fits my iPhone 4 with its case on. It should still fit the 3G series and probably a lot of other Apple devices as it's quite a large slot.

I've printed this in translucent blue PLA on my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic, you should be able to print it in ABS as long as you have a heated build platform.

This is a protective case with a lid for the iPhone credit card reader from Square.

This is for a long-term camera mod project I've been undertaking for nearly 3 years. The crank is pretty slick, I'm pleased with it, but it will require another part to interface with it as to prevent light leaks (bad for photography) and to keep it in place on the camera. There is a tube heading up the center core for stability and structural rigidity -- "solid" or infilled prints would snap apart easily. Giving the print a core requires the extruder to make a nice fat ring in the center, giving it a nice marrow to keep it solid. Try it on your own models, it's toot-sweet.

I needed a place to hang up the hand tools next to my desk. Vectorworks and Makerbot to the Rescue!

One of those cute little things you put in bottle of vinegar/soy sauce/cooking oil/etc to allow you to pour evenly without the "gluging and spilling".

It has a tapered bottle stopper with 2 channels through it's centre One to let fluid out and the other to let air in.

I suspect that the ridges wont seal very well (partly because ABS is quite a hard plastic and partly because I have made then quite thick. However it would not take much to put a rubber washer on it to give it a good seal and hold it in place.

This is a slight improvement on my own Escher Cookie Cutter design. The top is now open so it's easier to get the dough out. I've made a bunch of cookies to prove it works. Good stuff to test the Frostruder on if you ask me....

Print this and it'll fill up the M shaped hole on the front of your bot. Print a few in different colors and swap them around on a whim. Prints in no time at all.

How do you make a great idea like Makerbot-printable (clothing) buttons better?

Why, make them Lego Compatible! Naturally.

Update 2009/10/04: In the design files, the knobs are 5mm in diameter. I remeasured my source Lego disc after getting back some Shapeways test prints and the Lego knobs are actually closer to 4.8mm in diameter. I lucked out with my MakerBot-printed buttons; shrinkage brought them down to about 4.9mm in diameter. The Shapeways printed versions are more accurate, 5.00mm diameter, +/- 0.05mm. There's enough give in the plastic materials for them to still fit 'regulation size' lego blocks, but the metal one was simply too wide a diameter.

Update 2009/11/07: I've been playing around with OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/) and came up with the attached DiscButton_20091107 variation. I even added bottom "sockets" to this variation. It's almost too easy when it's all code!

Disclaimer: LEGO is a trademark of the LEGO Group and these explorations are in no way associated with LEGO Group. Heck! The files are CC-licensed; nothing to stop them embracing and extending it themselves if they so chose! ;-)

Sparkfun sells these nice LED compatible button pads:
sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=7836
They look good and they have a nice feel to them. Unfortunately when I purchased mine, the bezel to hold them was sold out. No problem. I made my own.

I created the model in SketchUp and printed it on my Makerbot in PLA, so no raft was required.

Here are some miscellaneous toolholders that can be scaled to fit practically any tool.

I was in the market for something like this myself, and was looking around searching for toolholders. The problem however is that there ar alot more different sized tools than there are toolholders that match, so then you end up with something that just looks awful and doesnt fit 100% to anything.

So regarding this project the goal was to make many different shaped toolholders that could easily be customized to fit any tool.

And again a big thanks to the makerbot crew for the plastic that made this:)


(Just an FYI - Everyone of my toolholders are printed on my full size makerbottable makerbot thingiverse.com/thing:3285)

I have been in the pursuit of getting the best print that I can, and as I learned skeinforge and learned what worked on my bot I noticed a wave coming from the wobbling of the z-axis rods. This thing will isolate the z platform from the wobbling of the rods and relies on two precision rods and bushings to eliminate the wobble.

Note: This will not work with the x-axis endstops, since they would be in the same place.

Here's a link to a video of it working: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/4500694961/

Incase I screwed up the part inventories, here are the links to the rods and bushings: Can't go wrong with rods for $6 each!
servocity.com/html/1_4__precision_shafting.html
servocity.com/html/bronze_bushings.html

Wilson was kind enough to flip my ascii stl files to binary, I didn't have a problem with ascii and forgot to check the stl submenu when exporting. Here are his links:
thingiverse.com/thing:2536
thingiverse.com/thing:2535
thingiverse.com/thing:2534
thingiverse.com/thing:2533
thingiverse.com/thing:2532

Torleif and I are claiming parallel simultaneous innovation just for the similarity of our two designs even though they have different intents. link: thingiverse.com/thing:2149

A VW Bus that I printed for my company's annual pinewood derby fundraiser.

'The Bus' is sized to fit over the block of wood that comes in the pinewood derby kit. It also uses the wheels provided in the kit.

You can also print out you own wheels and use a block of scrap wood to complete 'The Bus'.

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

Lets be clear this is a laser man bracelet. Not a bracelet. However women can wear this if they choose. It still is a laser man bracelet.

I was trying for masonite chain link\\\\\\\'s however I am stuck on making a matching sprocket. You can see from the photo that it goes.

2 Holes, 3 Holes, 2 Holes.... This is a funky hard to make sprocket.

For now its a laser man bracelet.

This is a parametric lego duplo built in openscad.
I exported and printed a 2x2x1 duplo, but other sizes should work too.

The sizes for the duplo stone could need some more tweaking to make the fit perfect, but current version still sits pretty good.

This is a somewhat improved Sarrus linkage based Z axis. It is much stiffer than the first one. I also have added a threaded rod drive. For more details, see objects.reprap.org/wiki/Sarrus_Z02