An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

How do you make a great idea like Makerbot-printable (clothing) buttons better?

Why, make them Lego Compatible! Naturally.

Update 2009/10/04: In the design files, the knobs are 5mm in diameter. I remeasured my source Lego disc after getting back some Shapeways test prints and the Lego knobs are actually closer to 4.8mm in diameter. I lucked out with my MakerBot-printed buttons; shrinkage brought them down to about 4.9mm in diameter. The Shapeways printed versions are more accurate, 5.00mm diameter, +/- 0.05mm. There's enough give in the plastic materials for them to still fit 'regulation size' lego blocks, but the metal one was simply too wide a diameter.

Update 2009/11/07: I've been playing around with OpenSCAD (http://www.openscad.org/) and came up with the attached DiscButton_20091107 variation. I even added bottom "sockets" to this variation. It's almost too easy when it's all code!

Disclaimer: LEGO is a trademark of the LEGO Group and these explorations are in no way associated with LEGO Group. Heck! The files are CC-licensed; nothing to stop them embracing and extending it themselves if they so chose! ;-)

Updated and improved some things to better attach to the ultimaker. Works now with 100ml syringes. Still uses the filament for 'driving' the syringe. Also new are the end stop enlargers so the endstops still work with the syringe attached.
The concept is more or less the other way round. The filament pulls the syringe and squeeze the material out.

for more images and movies, see facebook.com/europerminutedesign

Ultra über geek fantomie and I made these cookie cutters one night on top of a mountain, 2km high.
The Makerbot was printing and surrounded by this sweet smell of melted plastic it inspired us to draw these.

apple, archlinux, floppydisk, openhardware, pacman, twitter; not every shape is easy to print, and not every shape can become a cookie. Those shapes were chosen for their printability (sometimes), and of course their level of geekiness !

Ideal for Christmas gift.

Enjoy printing, cooking and eating - you greedy fellaz !

Camera stabilizer for small, light weight video cameras.
Steadycams are not easy to use if you don't understand the principles and set them up properly. Visit this page to get a great overview of steadycams.

youtube.com/watch?v=S3PgqKF6ugY&feature=related

To trim weight fore and aft, move camera back and forward in head slot.
To trim left and right, move counter weight shaft in base left or right.
To adjust fall time (see video) move gimbal up or down main shaft

Here is a film reel for an 8mm projector. I designed it specifically for a Brownie Movie Projector, made by Kodak, but it could work for other projectors(?).

Enjoy!

Sidenote: This thing could use an adjustment here or there to really be optimal...but it works well enough for me to not want to bother tightening it up.

Good luck!

23/09/11: updated file beefed the teeth up, the pictures for this file are incorrect

23/02/11: updated file, the teeth were off sorry.

For pushing and pulling on 35mm film.

One Box with one hinge and a second box with two hinges

I'm making extensive use of OpenSCAD. The only problem I found is that the polygon function is hard to use. I rather draw my polygons visual. So I created a simple polygon editor for OpenSCAD in Javascript+HTML.

Following the idea from the "OpenScad Polygon Generator" by "PieterBos" thingiverse.com/thing:9290
But then working for any OS, any browser, without fuss. You don't even need to install anything! (might even work in mobile browsers)

Online version can be found at:
daid.mine.nu/~daid/3d/
Latest sources can be found at:
github.com/daid/OpenSCAD-polygon-editor

Most of us have our favorite tools. One of mine is Inkscape. I'm no pro but I've been able to do what I need with it. Another of my favorites is OpenSCAD. The purpose of this thing is to make it easier to take something from Inkscape and use it in OpenSCAD.

The current steps you need to take to turn an SVG into an OpenSCAD usable DXF are the following:
1. Convert all objects to paths
2. Add extra points to paths
3. Convert paths to lines
4. Export to DXF

After all that you may use your SVG design in OpenSCAD, but then if you want to edit your design you are faced with two equally unpalatable options: edit the original design and go through the steps again, or edit the DXF directly.

I had had enough and set out to automate that process. I took all the best parts of at least 3 other DXF output extensions (I lost count!) and added automation for the steps listed above. With this Inkscape extension, you can edit/save your design and simply "Save a Copy As" to DXF whenever you want to try it in OpenSCAD. It is a lot smoother that way.

Supposedly it exports color to the dxf as well but I don't know if that's supported in openscad.

BONUS FEATURE:
The extension automatically adds dimensions to the DXF: layer_name_width and layer_name_height for each layer and total_width and total_height.
The dimensions can be accessed using the built-in dxf_dim command. Ex.:

total_width = dxf_dim(file = "openscaddxf.dxf", name = "total_width");

Three fairly small provisos:
- It's fairly slow because it has to launch a new inkscape instance to convert the objects to paths. It's not a pretty solution, but I believe it's the only way to do it at the moment.
- Doesn't work with groups. You will need to ungroup everything before exporting
- Doesn't work with intersecting lines. This will cause either the offending objects to disappear or everything will appear outlined instead of filled in.

Repo is here: github.com/brad/Inkscape-OpenSCAD-DXF-Export

FabScan - Affordable 3D Laser Scanning of Physical Objects

The images on the left show some scans made by the scanner.
The software allows to automatically produce a .stl of the scanned pointcloud.

For more information on the project check this site: hci.rwth-aachen.de/FabScan

Video of the Stead i Cam in action: youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PDLClM5rk5o

The Stead i Cam is designed by Frits Stam en Koen de Greef

features of the Stead i Cam:
+ removable / adjustable camera plate
+ design incorporates a feet for easy storage
+ weight swivels to compensate for an unbalanced camera
+ air bubble for leveling the camera
+ adjustable handle position with a screw thread which allows for very fine adjustments of the center of mass
+ light weight design

This project originated from the urge to create tools that help designers create professional results in times of budget cuts. With ‘Tools for Design’ we aim to create a community that helps in the development of instruments used in the design process. The Stead-I-Cam is an example of one of these tools. It supports smooth and professional moving video footage. It is created from a single sheet of laser-cut material, making it easy for any student to create and assemble. This open-source project cuts costs for such a professional tool and makes it accessible for every student / diy'er.

We love to see your own Stead i Cam so upload a picture of it!

An exact replica of the leg of a Logitech G15.

Combines thing 7217 with thing 13766 to make a full set.

So this is a drivative of Two things sadly an option not offerd by Thingy verse. "Edit your Thing" UI.

Still a work in progress, but is now tested and works!

*** *** *** *** Update 2011dec12: Added Zero21.stl, untested, should work (see images and stl/skp files attached)

WARNING! ->Use Zero20.stl / Zero20.skp
Work in Progress. Use at your own risk.
I am not reliable for any damage on your telescope.
ABS is a bit soft, the mount's screw will damage the part when it's too tight. Glueing wood or a metal plate onto the part would be one way to solve this issue. If you have other ideas, please let me know!
*** *** *** ***

(In case you are looking for new earring designs, stay tuned. For now, some boring useful niche stuff.)

The Lidl Skylux 70/700 telescope comes with a rather stable parallactic mount, unlike other cheap entry level telescopes you can get in catalogs or at supermarkets (usually a 76/900 newtonian reflector on a shaky plastic AZ mount).

I got hold of a used Lidl Skylux to use the mount for the Skywatcher 102/1300mm Maksutov and/or a DSLR camera. The only problem:

It has no standard photo mount.
Unbelievable, I could not find any CAD/3D files for this relativly common telescope mount. Just some telescope stores offer an adapter for €20 or €30, which is more then what I payed for the used mount WITH telescope!

If you compare the original mounting system and this design, you will note that this will slide in and is not as narrow as the original (which could be easily removed by just taking it out the top when the screw was loose enough). I did this to make sure it fits tightly without relying on the screw to hold all the weight, as FMD plastic parts are not as rigid as molded parts...

It might be possible to reduce the thickness even more, but the ABS tends to be too soft. As the telescope needs to be as stable as possible, it might even be a good idea to close the top completely.
The v20 SKP file includes a version where the screw is behind the adapter, but this will most likely be too fragile due to everage effects.

The main problem I see (aside the screw damaging the plastic) is that the increased height will reduce stability. If you can live without the comfort of a wing bolt, you could decrease the height and use a regular screw.

Please post any comments, suggestions or your personal print results into the comments, thank you!


(PS: Lidl, Skylux, Sky-Watcher & Co are registered trademarks and I am not associated in any way with the companies. This part is a hobby project, and I am not liable for any damage that may result from my bad design or your device having another mount type.)

This design uses 3 lengths of 20mm x 20mm aluminum extrusion and a bunch of printed parts to form the telescope tube for a Printonian telescope.

Specifically, it uses 80/20 extrusion, and I don't know if the tolerances are right yet, so consider it a work in progress.

Having finally gotten my printer to produce clean prints, I decided it was time to celebrate, which means making the obligatory shot glass :-)

I decided I wanted something reprap related, so I designed a shot glass in the shape of a hollowed out, tapered reprap teardrop.

I designed this tool to help me hob a toothed channel in a drive bolt for a wade's extruder. I've printed one, and used it successfully.

I had some difficulties to get the wade screw ready properly. I tried the tap-method but was not successful so I decided to try the teeth version. This "thing" will show a method to get a desired amount of teeth into the bolt and how to divide the surface of this screw into exactly same sized teeth.

You will find all about the wade extruder here:
reprap.org/wiki/Wade's_Geared_Extruder

...and here on Thingiverse:
thingiverse.com/thing:1794

Can actually also be used on other similar extruder designs.

This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It uses all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.

Features
Compatible with Arduino and Arduino Mega
Uses only 5 user selectable pins
Stackable (up to 11 Inkshields on Ardunio, 15 on Mega)
On-board 20V boost converter for inkjet head
Accepts 9-12V input via optional power connector or from the Arduino Vin
Auxiliary input header offers support for other microcontrollers
Auxiliary output header supports an extension cable to the inkjet head
Power and Pulse activity LEDs
ISCP header and Reset button
All through-hole components

This will be the first official release location. For the most current information visit:
nicholasclewis.com/inkshield/
github.com/NicholasCLewis/InkShield

A production run of this project was successfully funded via a Kickstarter here: kck.st/oAGeza

Description of files:
InkShieldLibrary.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (You should download the *NEW* version)
InkShieldLibraryNEW.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (updated version - found a few bugs when finishing the Mega version)
InkShieldMegaLibrary.zip - Arduino Mega Libraries/Examples
InkShieldLiteLibrary.zip - Minimal Arduino Libraries/Examples
InkShieldPCB.zip - Kicad Schematic and PCB Layout

I've taken all the calibration prints out there and condensed them into one place. I have here:

.5mm thin wall
20mm box
20mm hollow box
50mm tower
perimeter width/t tester
precision block
overhang test
oozebane test
bridge test

and more to come.

All designs are my original work and not taken from other users. But they are inspired by other users.

The 20mm box, thin wall, and 50mm tower are ideas from Spacexula's great calibration set thingiverse.com/thing:2064, and the other ones are my ideas and not influenced by others. After Spacexula's calibration set, there is quite a derivative tree.

Here are some combos I have found with my MK5 extruder:
(In order of: Layer Height, Width/Thickness, Feedrate, Flowrate PWM)
.36, 1.528, 34.1, 255
.3, 1.789, 42, 255
.2, 2.521, 35, 197 *This is still experimental, most prints I try with it fail :(

This is a Reprap 32bit control board based upon AVR32 (AT32UC3B0256) CPU.
It is a functional replacement for the Gen4 Aruduino mega and it's motherboard. The code has been ported to AVR32 GCC from Makerbot G3 branch (the V2 code),

Status: As of OCT 8th, 2011
The atmel CDC driver for USB is now running on the hardware with terminal emulators. The next step is to port it into tha main REPRAP32 application. I will probably try a USB branch on the main git repository. I have not yet published a branch and need to learn how to do it correctly.

I have some bare stepstick PCBs in hand now. So I can build a full stepstick based prusia with USB reprap32 for my daughter at college.

I checked the loading of the 64us stepper timer interrupt to see how much cpu time the steppers are using. I found 22% nominal and 36% worst case. This leaves 53 DMips of cpu still available.


I was able to drive the Gen3 stepper drivers on my Prusa with no issues. Just a cable slide from 10 pin to 6 pin IDC. I did not even change any settings in ReplicatorG!!! it just works.

Most of my issues were related to pin assignments and not having end stops
Properly terminated. They are now disconnected in the software build.


check out sites.google.com/site/reprap32

4 NiMH cells just aren't enough to power the arduino and sensors that I want to use. 5 might do.

I designed this 5 AA cell holder to hold rechargeable cells and power my Arduino projects.

I first tried using the well designed battery pack - thingiverse.com/thing:5079 - but had problems with the clearance necessary to allow for the bolt head contacts. The bolts and washers are additional components that I don't want to have to use for batteries.

My design uses solid copper wire for the battery contacts and interconnects. Soldering the wire ends is optional and I imagine will increase the physical lifetime of the pack. The wires should be wrapped twice through the wall to give good contact with the battery. The wire channel design has a land to cause the copper to extend out to press against the battery. There are wire channels on the inside and outside of the box to correctly align the wires and keep the package neat.

The alternate design has some corners built into the top to center an arduino above the battery box and hold it steady. It was designed for thingiverse.com/thing:8706 this Arduino holder, which I use to protect my furniture from the pins at the bottom of the arduino, and the contacts from short circuiting.

The packs can be stacked to produce a split power system, or 12V

This type of astrophotography mount is often called a barndoor mount, a scotch mount or a Haig mount. This mount allows you to take long exposure of the night sky by canceling out the apparent motion of the stars in the sky.

You can get more information on this type of device on Wikipedia:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker.

The version displayed here is made using soft wood (pine) but the final assembly should be made of hard wood such as maple.

Note: The mechanism is working as expected but I am still having some vibrations transmitted to the camera. I have to eliminate these before to try taking any pictures. Improvements are on the way ... stay tuned.

This is the first release of the Boot-strappable Open Laser Cutter project that I've been working on for the past few months. The goal of the project is to construct an open design laser cutter with a large cut area (about 1 meter square), for about 5%-10% of the cost of a commercial system. The design draws heavily from other open laser cutter projects out there (such as the Buildlog 2X Laser Cutter) in using inexpensive aluminum extrusion and optics for most of the structural frame, while here most of the custom parts are 3D printed from ABS.

The printed parts represent about 10 hours of total printing time on a Makerbot or Reprap, and have been designed with the hope that they would be of general utility to anyone printing out a large CNC system -- not just a laser cutter. These include parts such as NEMA17 motor holders that mount onto t-slot, idler brackets, pillow block bushing mounts for motors, idlers, and shafts, and so on.

A 3D videoprojection screen based on a Dodecahedron dome. I created this for the "Spielplatz" exhibition of photography and video art at Raststätte in Aachen/Germany (http://raststaette.org).

The projection is done using a simple DLP projector and a hemispheric mirror. Using the hemispheric mirror I'm able to fully project onto the whole dome from the inside with just a single projector. Here is a great video by Michael Kowalczyk of the Projectahedron in action:

vimeo.com/28900633

In this first version the projected image is severely distorted. I'm planning to measure/calculate a correct mapping function for the system which eliminates the distortions. You will be able to display undistorted images on the faces then.

The Dodecahedron was created using variations of the great OpenSCAD scripts from thingiverse.com/thing:9359 .

If you want to install or exhibit my Projectahedron anywhere, please feel free to contact me.

Simple button replacement for a pair of Outlier pants. Not parametric, but uses a DXF file to create the 3D model in openSCAD.

nrp wrote a script to generate keys compatible with Kwikset KW1.

But the obsolescent KW1 has been falling out of use in new locks for almost two decades so I adapted the script for the newer 6-pin KW10 locks. (The KW10 doesn't add any other sophistication--just one extra pin.)

Just a simple case for the cheap linear bushing HY12UU. (For ongoing project: hci.rwth-aachen.de/meisterklasse)

There are four 4.2mm holes in the case.

I use to put four M4x40 screws into it in order to attach it to a 5mm woodplate.

This thing will allow you to mount a cylindrical object (flashlight, laser pointer etc) on a regular tripod.