Here are all the 3D printed parts for the RepRapPro Ltd version of Huxley. Despite what it says on the left, it was primarily created by Jean-Marc Giacalone. I added a few bits...

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

This is the same model as the original, only with a filesize about 1/100th. The original had an absurd number of vertices (64000 or something like that) for such a relatively simple shape. I decimated the mesh using meshlab and came up with this.

With the old model I could not slice it, all my RAM was used up and it sat there for hours. Now it slices in a minute.

***UPDATE*** We printed this on an UP!, and it's lovely! I think these is a solid base design for a case. Now, it needs to be interesting, something better than what you can buy on a shelf. Hellooooo, meshmixer!

I do like that an iphone case is something everyone recognizes, and pretty much anybody can pop out of a printer and into their lives. Hooray!


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First off, this is a work in progress. I brought my TOM to thanksgiving, and the first thing my relatives wanted to print was an iphone case. Sadly, I lost a wire on my heating cartridge mid-print, so until my new cartridge comes in next week, I can't say for certain that it works.

That being said, here's a case for the iphone 4s. It's a two-piece design with a butterfly to hold everything together. It's kinda picky about the orientation you print it in, so I put everything together in the friendliest orientation.

Inventor files are included, in case you want to adjust the design

Suggestions are welcome!

Alternative Prusa Mendel Y-axis bushing mount

github.com/byteborg/mendelparts/tree/master/parts/y-slide-bushing

Read the story behind this part: blog.byteb.org/2012/01/broken-lm8uu-linear-bearings.html

There are a lot of howtos for led cubes out there and every says "build a wooden jig for the leds". But unfortunately I'am absolutely unskillful with the drill. So i printed a 3x3 led jig and build two 3x3x3 led cubes with this :-).

Similar to thingiverse.com/thing:7153 but many parameters. Defaults are a 5mm to 7.8mm shaft which is what I measured on my machine. I got rid of the cut on one side as that led to slightly uneven pressure inducing a bit of wobble. In this model you can change: shaft diameters, bolt sizes, washers (if used), nut traps, and overall dimensions. This will make a strong shaft coupling without using much plastic. The code also makes a cleaner stl then my previous coupling.

After building a MendelMax and seeing the extra stability from using a bearing to hold the bottom of the Z threaded rod we decided to add a similar part for a Prusa Mendel.

We've done testing and it seems to work really great for reducing Z wobble. If you have any suggestions or findings from testing please leave them in the comments.

Storage system for storing various things. Developed from the simpler parametric compartment box by adding two new cool features: (optional) rounding of all compartment corners to prevent the pesky nuts and bolts from hiding in the corners to avoid being used, and handles plus some new OpenSCAD modules for creating a cabinet of drawers.

This is the Mantis 9.1 designed by David Carr at MIT. It is a mini mill that people have built for less than 100 dollars. It seems to be best at pcb engraving and other semi hard materials.

Here's my first upload (and first design):

A very simple Sharpie marker holder. The mounting holes are spaced 50mm apart to mount to a standard Prusa mount. I intended to use set screws to hold the Sharpie initially, but the fit is so tight that this is probably unnecessary.

Lemme know what you think.

Couples a 5mm motor shaft to an 8mm threaded rod, ensuring they are coaxial, but allowing some angular movement if the rod is not straight. This version has the advantage of using two identical parts, rather than having a captive-nut side, and a smooth side. This means that one needs one fewer part type, which seems like a good idea, but it also ensures that the bolts balance one another.

As mentioned here: things.hands.com/thing/pla_coupling/ this version avoids the use of center=true, which seems to have been causing printing difficulties for some reason (as yet undetermined).

Oh, and it has round corners (it's mostly an intersection of a 'cube' and a cylinder)

Inspired by this instructable: instructables.com/id/Always-have-Correct-Change-in-your-wallet/
I made a 3D printed version. It includes 3 quarters, 2 dimes, 1 nickel, and 4 pennies. Keep in your wallet so you can always make perfect change.

I never had any luck hobbing a bolt using the tap method. When I used my rotary tool by hand, the teeth came out uneven.

This work in progress jig should allow for either a 8mm, or 5/16" bolt (or rod with nut) to be indexed to 19 positions. The ratchet head was edited from this excellent thing: thingiverse.com/thing:8752

I put up a short 30 second video of this jig being used. I was holding the camera, and using the rotary tool and making sparks fly all at the same time. With some practice, I feel I will be able to make many bolts for my army of 3D printers.

youtu.be/KpnZK_AJLgM

- Edit -

The idea for this thing came to me after seeing many great ways/things to hob bolts. (That and after the snow I didn't want to go out to the cold work shed) My thing is an amalgamation of many of the ideas found here on Thingiverse:

thingiverse.com/thing:9291
thingiverse.com/thing:10360
thingiverse.com/thing:10110
thingiverse.com/thing:11275

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

This is a tool for bending lead of resistors and other components. Every line has a standard size, each slot is .05″ longer than the next and has radiused edges to make perfect bends without stressing the leads. It can be used to bend the leads of 1/2 watt resistors, 1/4 watt resistors, and diodes.
Esta pieza es una herramienta para doblar patillas de resistencias. Cada hueco es multiplo de 2,54mm (el espaciado estandard de componentes). Puede ser usado para doblar resistencias de 1/2w ,1/4w o diodos.

I needed a speaker holder for a 8 ohm speaker with a 33mm ring to clamp the back magnet.

This is the same as thingiverse.com/thing:12268 but allso made to hold a 608 bearing so it can be used like thingiverse.com/thing:11187.

I'm sitting here looking at my printer, thinking "why are there three separate parts there?"

Note: pictured model is sized for M6 threaded rods!


I've seen a few similar designs but I couldn't find them when I went to look, so I made this one myself from prusa's 'felt' Z motor mount.

Unlike prusa's felt mount, this one won't print vertically due to the bar clamp!

This eliminates the need for: 4x M3 nylock nuts, 4x M3 washers, 4x M3 screws, 4x M8 washers and 2x M8 nuts; total 20 fewer vitamins.

***UPDATED 9 November***
Replaced with scad that defaults to standard frame rod spacing, and an STL that has M8 holes rather than M6

I needed a tray of compartments to put screws in when taking laptops apart and the like so I printed one. I designed it with a noddy little OpenSCAD script so I can make one with long and thin compartments for airbrush needles or whatever.

I'll probably update this at some point to allow different thickness walls between compartments and for the outer walls and maybe for rounded bottom compartments.

Please use the new version of this clamp; thingiverse.com/thing:12616. It has several improvements making it easier to operate and is sized to fit the Thing-O-Matic.


A fully printable, functional mini clamp.

A derivative of the PCB Gator Vise and Hobby Clamps thingiverse.com/thing:12616

This one has been modified so that it will print on a TOM and will hold circuit boards in such a way that you have better access to the edges of the board.

This is holder features a non-slip bottom and a rod going through to hold the spool and keep it from falling out and rolling away if dropped.

Vertical X for Prusa by North90ty.
My design for the vertical-x contest on reprap.org
reprap.org/wiki/Vertical_X_Axis_Standard_Contest

This design has been tested and works great for me!

Wanting to move away from the cast x-ends but also liking the clamp style, we designed some new ones to work with the boltable PLA bushings. These are interchangeable with the standard Prusa or cast Clonedel x-ends.

This x-end set calls for a little extra hardware, but no glue and the ability to change out bushing easily makes up for it.

Hardware:
x8 M3 20mm SHCS
x8 M3 12mm SHCS
x24 M3 washers
x16 M3 Nyloc nuts (or regular nuts)

These x-ends use the boltable PLA bushings rather than the glue in PLA bushings. You can find the boltable bushings here: thingiverse.com/thing:10647. Also, we have made Igus bushings holder for these x-ends too: thingiverse.com/thing:13229

Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

These Igus bushing holders are interchangeable with the Mountable PLA bushings. The holders should be tight enough so that the Igus bushings slide in snug and do no move around.

They were made to work with this: thingiverse.com/thing:13228

Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

may have different hole spacing to originals

munge 'extrusion_width' factor to fix, or replace with renamed factor perhaps.

if you know the original hole spacing, leave a comment!

**Update**
After testing, I found that the longer bushing created too much friction on the rod so I changed the mountable bushing back to 11mm length. Also, these are a bit more work to install than just gluing them. There is a higher chance of putting the bushings on out of square if you do not take your time and get good measurements. Granted, it will be faster if I ever need replace the bushings.
**

I wanted to make bushings for the y axis that were more easily changed out than the given instructions on the Prusa build (gluing). The mounting holes are set to fit m3 screws.

The scad file is the original pla-bushing.scad file from the Prusa git with the added mounting arms. If you drop the .scad file in the folder with the configuration.scad your Prusa scad settings will work on this file. For example, I print my bushing with the rod size a little larger so I don't have to ream the bushing as much. So, in the configuration.scad file I change the bush_rod from 8 to 8.2.

The stl file I have given has the larger bush_rod size, so if it seems too big you may need to change the unit back to 8.

Boltable PLA bushings.
-Changed to classic style bushing
-Added slotted holes

Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

An easy to build, small sized Hot End for 3d-printers.