This contains all of the base parts for the printrbot in one tiny tray.

(Extruder, Gears & Clamps Sold Separately. ;) )

Full Tray Fits on a 7" x 6" Build Platform!

2 Smaller trays:
Tray 1of2: 4.7" x 4.5"
Tray 2of2: 4" x 4"

I had some trouble squeezing down tray 1 any smaller... Anyone with smaller then a 5" build platform will need to build Tray #1 on their own...

(Tray a #1 contains: 2 Base's, Bearing Guide & X Motor Mount)

This thing turns a Nespresso Cupsule box into a bench top dispenser.

Same as thingiverse.com/thing:14742 but for aluminum extrusion, like the MendleMax.

make tslot of any width.
10x10
20x20
25x25
30x30
40x40
...

Version 120208.02:
==================
Simplified library, now you pass the model as a parameter.
Added more tslot models.

Version 120208.01:
==================
Added two slots for Wx2W
So now you can print
25x50
30x60
...

Ever felt the need to show off 84 very cheaply made marbles? Look no further. Simply fill up in a tetrahedron pattern, drop the thing by mistake, repeat a few times, then manage to do it correctly. Done :)

This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

I started out simply wanting to print a giant bread tag for a friend. Little did I know that an entire taxonomy exists for the parasitoids known as Occlupanid (Occlu = to close, pan = bread).

The most thorough research into these organisms has been conducted by the Holotypic Occlupanid Research Group - horg.com/horg. Their work was even used in the report "Plastic bag clip discovered in partial colectomy accompanying proposal for phylogenic plastic bag clip classification" published in the BMJ Case Reports journal: casereports.bmj.com/content/2011/bcr.02.2011.3869.abstract.

While the SCAD file is parametric so far I have only designed (bred?) one example of the Toxodenta (curved teeth) order, based on an example I found in the wild which appears to conform to the classification of Palpatophora utiliformis - horg.com/horg/Palpatophora_utiliformis.htm.

I intend to extend the SCAD file to include examples of species from each order. I also encourage people to create their own variations and mutations. Let's see if we can get these creatures to evolve into something new! ;-)

After I added the tapered mouthpiece to the whistles, and with the hotdog-red ABS, these things remind me of a toy wienermobile I used to have. Thus the name.

This panflute is slightly more practical than the one it's derived from. The curved shape is easier to use than the circle, and I added a bit of taper to the mouthpiece to make it easier to blow on a single whistle. Still not a practical musical instrument, though!

This one has a diatonic scale (CDEFGABC) instead of chromatic like the other one. I had to learn the OpenSCAD lookup() function for that!

Some minor changes to my filament pusher inspired by Tom's update (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16928).
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.

Thanks Tom and Triffid for the ideas.

Procedurally-generated panpipes for 3D printing. They really whistle, but they aren't particularly accurately tuned. OpenSCAD file included.

It'll theoretically play a chromatic scale (12 notes to the octave) but it's too squeaky to know for sure!

Since I didn't happen to have any toy wheels just laying around, I designed some to be printed.

Changes from original:
-Added sweet rimzzz
-Exhaust port changed to round hole, increased size to 7mm diameter.
-Wheel mount holes changed to fit small finishing nails
-Added lip to balloon stem

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

This is an apparatus designed to allow three people to conveniently type out a specific phrase: it is as it is

Each person must time their actions specifically, and operate their portion of the device with care.

This device was made to be a performance at a local art-event. Its operation is (of course) far from convenient, but it does type out the most true thing I have ever known.

Pretty simple kids toy. Attach a balloon and watch it scoot across the floor! (Sorry, some extra parts required)

printable belt splitter

This is a silly string booby trap--it clips onto a can of silly string, and if someone comes within ~10 inches of it, it'll fire a blast of silly string at them.

This is a spacer that is used to easily dial in the extruder height for the Makergear Mosaic printer.

Or it's a spacer with a mohawk and a spiked collar.

Because the Z endstop switch may be located differently from bot to bot verify and adjust the parameters as needed.

May be useful in other applications. The OpenSCAD file allows setting parameters to suit your needs.

My girlfriend challenged me to make a hand soap dispenser that is cooler than anything we could buy at Crate & Barrel (or similar stores). The result, after a number of design iterations, is this bottle which now inhabits our bathroom.

This dispenser is designed to reduce waste in a number of ways. First, it is easily refillable, and so can be used for many years. Second, as the pump is turned, liquid soap spills from the spout back into a hole in the bottle, thus recycling any drips. Third, this design makes it easy to get as much or as little soap as you want, while commercial soap pumps often dispense more soap than necessary with a single squeeze.

This is the STL file for a front plate for a 4.3" LCD display. I've been working on a proof of concept touchscreen replacement for the Gen4 Interface Board.

You can see the video here dl.dropbox.com/u/6717742/Gen4Touchscreen.m4v

The video shows Jetty's firmware thingiverse.com/thing:15380 , but will work with the original or future firmware written to support the original Gen4 Interface Board.

This thing is based on the Cuboro Marble track, but I didnt have one when I drew the pieces. The track is 22mm diameter and all turns are 22mm radius too.
Feel free to add new parts.

More pictures:

flickr.com/photos/lanthan/sets/72157629185958843/with/6823716121/

Inspired by the amazing Kritzler tinkerlog.com/2011/09/02/der-kritzler/ and Polargraph polargraph.co.uk/ plus some itch to make my own.
Also see AS220s:
as220.org/labs/drawbot/

I liked the polargraph rotating axial mount, but since I do not have the suitable bearings, I printed sliding rings from pla. The fit is quite close, and with some Teflon spray they appear to work great!
This has still to be mounted and tested. Notice the tidy desk ;-)

Other available sources are Makerblock's build thingiverse.com/thing:16384

JohnA's gondola:
thingiverse.com/thing:12557

This is a derivative of timogiles’ original “6 Packer” model. Specifically, this started as his design, generated for 1/8" material. I then hand-optimized the pieces to allow parts to better share cut lines. Finally, I (barely) squeezed it to fit on to two 24" x 12" boards.

This design also inclues an etched QR code directing people to the downloadable files.

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

I liked jetty's new buttons, but I thought the X's looked too much like H's, and I like symbols better anyway, so this is the result.

This delicious sushi has been digitized for your enjoyment. Included are: California Roll, Eel Roll, Shrimp, and Ginger. I figured you could handle modeling the wasabi yourself. All files are in VRML format, and zipped with their PNG textures. Ready for color printing.

Just modified the bottom gear of the screwless heart gears to fit my old kysan DC extruder motor (which turns very slowly on 5V USB XD)

youtube.com/watch?v=YefD_BvxgzY

this is a proof of concept in the use of driving more than 2 filaments (3 here) using 2 motors. one motor drives the filament while the other drives a cam that pushes the filament into the drive shaft.
i am currently preparing to test this, but wanted to get it out there. current issues are that is does not have good access to the drive mechanism for cleaning or feeding filament and that much of it was designed to be machined instead of printed. the side plates are to big for a cupcake, but i ws able to print a few of the pieces on one. it may also not be compatible with other motors until there is a redesign, as the motors are integral to its strength.
if anyone has improvements, let me know.
EDIT: added an IGES assembly file(let me know when you find its broken, and how to fix it) and SW2005 part and assembly files. also added an exploded image
EDIT: lookes like this has been worked on a bit already by wildseyed thingiverse.com/thing:10783 . not sure if i should list it as derivative.
Finally got more than 1 hot end functional at a time, so to check out the filament drive in action see youtu.be/CVaYHlLkvWM
and youtu.be/yqAGEqaoPg4


it works! all 3 filaments running:
youtu.be/po8KyagUsY4
youtu.be/-X-azhcsqdM

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

Are you fed up? Do you want to express your anger or indignation? Do not worry!
Here you are the solution: the f*** you all coin!

Estás harto? Quieres expresar tu ira o indiganación? ¡No te preocupes! Aquí tienes la solución: la moneda "que-os-den"

More information in Spanish:

iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Objecto_3D:_La_moneda_Que-os-den

This is an experiment with different ways to connect multiple pieces of a model together. The model is a hollow sphere which has been split about 3/4 of the way along one axis. I then added different structures to reconnect the two pieces together. I put the male component on the larger piece of the sphere because that seemed more mechanically challenging.

One model uses a simple peg-in-socket design. Nothing but friction holds the two pieces together, and I found that a difference of 0.5mm to 1.0mm in the diameters of the pegs and sockets gave good results with the vagaries of my printer.

The other model uses a more sophisticated clip design with a half-sphere on one side, which mates to a similar socket on the cap. Here I found that a 3mm thick clip gives a good compromise between strength and flexibility.