Watch the video here youtube.com/watch?v=fcWjpMpV9rA

Well, new MakerWare by Makerbot does not support old Makerbots (Thing-o-Matic and Cupcake), even tho the sw is ready and adding them would take seconds. Unfortunately it is closed source (Makerbot had to pay for Qt license to be able to close the source) Fortunately it is easy to bluff it and still use it with older machines!

(Update: Sorry, official support should come "soon" makerbot.com/docs/makerware/use/ You have atleast inside look under the hood)

I hope it helps you guys!

As I follow deeper and deeper I find more and more interesting stuff. I did another update to my post here josefprusa.cz/open-hardware-meaning/#update

Nice chronology is kept in this post marcuswolschon.blogspot.cz/2012/09/occupy-thingiverse.html

Support Open Hardware here news.ycombinator.com/news

I'm leaving Thingiverse after seeing updated Terms of use thingiverse.com/legal , over next few days I will remove all my stuff. It will be downloadable on my website josefprusa.cz or reprap.org I prefer to by owner of my own designs :-)

We are not trolls, as Raldrich said

"The fact that the legal ramifications of MakerBot's TOS weren't discovered until today doesn't magically give them a free pass.

The fact that they don't intend (today) to exercise the rights they've granted themselves also doesn't magically give them a free pass. Companies change - take a look at their stance on Open Source Hardware."

Also Replicator 2 is Closed Source, at least everything looks like it and guy on Makerbot support phone told me so.
Check out my open letter to Bre Pettis here josefprusa.cz/open-hardware-meaning/
Help out by spreading the word! reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/10642q/open_hardware_meaning_josef_prusa/
slashdot.org/submission/2267155

Link it, tweet it, comment it! Help the cause and show them we want it Open Source!

First alternative garyhodgson.com/reprap/2012/09/githubiverse-a-github-pages-template-for-3d-printing-projects/

Print the Test Cube as ugly as you can and post picture of it as "I made one" :-)

Jo Prusa, RepRap core dev

I removed the files after seeing new user agreements. I don't like the feel that Thingiverse owns the design. Files are here reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

I removed the files after seeing new user agreements. I don't like the feel that Thingiverse owns the design. Files are here reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

I removed the files after seeing new user agreements. I don't like the feel that Thingiverse owns the design. Files are here reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

I removed the files after seeing new user agreements. I don't like the feel that Thingiverse owns the design. Files are here reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

Its finally here, heatbed is tested and ready to make your prints flat as pancake. It is a long story of testing and developing to make it really working and long lasting, you can check some background info in previous version here thingiverse.com/thing:2172 .

Active heated area is 20x20cm big and overall size is 214x214mm, its compatible with Mendel and all kinds of other RepStraps, just check if you can fit it on your bed. Its double-sided, so its more rigid and will not damage the heating element if you set wrong Z offset (thanks Joaz for this idea).

Its powered by 12V, prototype draws 9.9A when cold which goes down to 7.5A when hot. With isolation on the bottom of this heater, it reaches 100°C in about ~4,5 minutes, measured on the side of the heat field. These ratings may be slightly different on each PCB. It can be easily converted to use 24V or 48V.

I know guys from RepRapsSource and convinced them to fabricate these beds, so you can buy professionally fabricated version at reprapsource.com/en/show/6403 and trust me, I have had troubles etching first prototype which was only 1/4th of size so its worth to buy it, its made in Germany..

If you want to etch it by yourself, you need 35um copper layer and be sure to have all traces perfectly same, if some place is thinner it will generate more heat and burn the board. Also, you have to cover it before heating otherwise copper will corrode really quick.

Wade adapter for ShaperCube

PCB heated bed. I'm working on this idea for nearly two months, inspired by neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 .

UPDATE
------
tested at 110W and its working flawlesly, gives 108°C in few mins
Now I'm working on great mounting solution

This is V4
--------

- 22x20cm hated area
- you can select what resistance you want 1.3ohms (110W at 12V) or 21ohms
- you dont need any steel or aluminium on top, just plane kapton tape

(I'm testing it at 21ohms setup with 55V PSU which gives me 144W and about 110-120°C, will test with 12V soon and I'll give a report)

Mendel y-bar-clamp_10off remake in scad

You can set if you want nut traps on bottom of the object, which also make it higher for added strenght.

Mendel part remake in OpenSCAD. Skeinforges faster and even prints better on some machines because of lower resolution holes!

-------------------
Remember that if you are using them, you only need 5 parts printed with nut traps. The other clamps will need to be of the plain type so that a washer and bolt rest properly on them.
-------------------

------------------
Updated:
- bigger holes, you should not have to drill them out

Generates nice object to test quality (how flat is it) of your print bed, its primary for heated print bed if you print without raft (I use custom modified Raftless plugin originaly by Zaggo pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/ ). Flat consistent surface is key for this.

I've designed form for casting silicone button pad. They have exact same dimensions as buttons on monome. Now I have to do few more tries to avoid some errors but Itll be great. Designed in OpenSCAD and its parametrized, so you can generate as big form as you want :-) there is a room for LED inside button, just like in button pad from Sparkfun etc.

It works, but the feel of pressing isn't same as on the monome, I've updated design a little and it should be better now.

If you have vacuum chamber you are lucky and you can have bubble free cast :-)

I've tried to embed some conductor when casting, but it wasn't great idea. Next time > cast and then glue the conductor :-) (in this case simple aluminium foil) >>> any tip for better and easier conductor??

Faceplate and PCB for this button pad is on the way too!! I'm looking forward to print my own MONOME!!