I made x-ends for use with linear bearings. I've seen some tries but nothing that great to pull it in.
It's derived from felt branch on my Github github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/tree/felt which will soon became the master github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/tree/felt please always check out from Git if you are doing whole printer.

Linear bearings are snap in, then you can secure them with zip tie.

NOTE: Motor goes other way around then you are used to from previous versions. It's more stable and doesn't bend. Also the x-ends are push fit, so you'll need to trim down the X-axis smooth rods.
Take it as sneak peek to felt branch :-)

Thanks Kliment for providing linear bearings :-)

Wearable glasses with real lenses which doctor prescribed to me.
Print, bend them while they are still hot, so it matches your face better.
Dunno if you can get lenses for them made from the DXF. I did it opposite way, did lenses first and then designed the glasses.
I wear them all the time, and I even had them on my interview for local video podcast show DIGIT digit.cz/2010/12/30/digit58-silvestr3d/.

These are not first glasses ever repraped. langfordw made these first thingiverse.com/thing:793.

Official and most recent info is here: reprap.org/wiki/PLA_bushings.

Great alternative of bearings, if you dont have huge load. VikOlliver inspired me with his set of parts, using PLA "sleds". This is radically improved, tho.

I'm testing them on my mendel remix and they looks pretty good.

Also, it makes whole x-carriage snap on to axis rods :-) Its great if you are experimenting with extruders a lot!!

They sits really nicely on rods. With regular Igus bushings I had a problem, because I dont have bearing rods, it was all little wobbly.

My simplified version of mendel. All axes are compatible with regular mendel. Actual information you can find on RepRap wiki reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel and most recent OpenSCAD source files are on my GitHub github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Last update is, that its working and its pretty darn good :-)

Its finally here, heatbed is tested and ready to make your prints flat as pancake. It is a long story of testing and developing to make it really working and long lasting, you can check some background info in previous version here thingiverse.com/thing:2172 .

Active heated area is 20x20cm big and overall size is 214x214mm, its compatible with Mendel and all kinds of other RepStraps, just check if you can fit it on your bed. Its double-sided, so its more rigid and will not damage the heating element if you set wrong Z offset (thanks Joaz for this idea).

Its powered by 12V, prototype draws 9.9A when cold which goes down to 7.5A when hot. With isolation on the bottom of this heater, it reaches 100°C in about ~4,5 minutes, measured on the side of the heat field. These ratings may be slightly different on each PCB. It can be easily converted to use 24V or 48V.

I know guys from RepRapsSource and convinced them to fabricate these beds, so you can buy professionally fabricated version at reprapsource.com/en/show/6403 and trust me, I have had troubles etching first prototype which was only 1/4th of size so its worth to buy it, its made in Germany..

If you want to etch it by yourself, you need 35um copper layer and be sure to have all traces perfectly same, if some place is thinner it will generate more heat and burn the board. Also, you have to cover it before heating otherwise copper will corrode really quick.

Wade adapter for ShaperCube

PCB heated bed. I'm working on this idea for nearly two months, inspired by neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 .

UPDATE
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tested at 110W and its working flawlesly, gives 108°C in few mins
Now I'm working on great mounting solution

This is V4
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- 22x20cm hated area
- you can select what resistance you want 1.3ohms (110W at 12V) or 21ohms
- you dont need any steel or aluminium on top, just plane kapton tape

(I'm testing it at 21ohms setup with 55V PSU which gives me 144W and about 110-120°C, will test with 12V soon and I'll give a report)

Mendel y-bar-clamp_10off remake in scad

You can set if you want nut traps on bottom of the object, which also make it higher for added strenght.

Mendel part remake in OpenSCAD. Skeinforges faster and even prints better on some machines because of lower resolution holes!

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Remember that if you are using them, you only need 5 parts printed with nut traps. The other clamps will need to be of the plain type so that a washer and bolt rest properly on them.
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Updated:
- bigger holes, you should not have to drill them out

Generates nice object to test quality (how flat is it) of your print bed, its primary for heated print bed if you print without raft (I use custom modified Raftless plugin originaly by Zaggo pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2009/12/05/raftless/ ). Flat consistent surface is key for this.

I've designed form for casting silicone button pad. They have exact same dimensions as buttons on monome. Now I have to do few more tries to avoid some errors but Itll be great. Designed in OpenSCAD and its parametrized, so you can generate as big form as you want :-) there is a room for LED inside button, just like in button pad from Sparkfun etc.

It works, but the feel of pressing isn't same as on the monome, I've updated design a little and it should be better now.

If you have vacuum chamber you are lucky and you can have bubble free cast :-)

I've tried to embed some conductor when casting, but it wasn't great idea. Next time > cast and then glue the conductor :-) (in this case simple aluminium foil) >>> any tip for better and easier conductor??

Faceplate and PCB for this button pad is on the way too!! I'm looking forward to print my own MONOME!!