The perfect mate for a NEMA 14 Wallace printer. A nema 14 version of the Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears. Set to 1.75mm filament, grovemount for makergear hot end, and uses the fishbone Gears from
was:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7993 correction:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379

Inspired by Xendi in the Wallace thread.

A snap on PLA bushing the size of an LM8UU bearing.

Not wanting to disassemble my prusa but wanting to test an alternative carriage I decided to hack triffid_hunters design to make it twist onto the smooth rod.

This "Thingy" makes a 20mm diameter wire clip or a wire conduit. The flexible outside easily opens and clips over the Mendel rod then it snaps tight onto the 8mm or 5/16 rod. The wires are pushed inside and the outside is then compressed so the barb clips/snaps into the grove to lock the conduit.
The clip can be repeatedly snapped and unsnapped to route and reroute wire.

It can also be removed and used again somewhere else.

Nema23 Z axis for regular Prusa Mendel.
2 required
Integrated Vertex and rod Clamp

I have some surplus/salvage Nema23 steppers that are a little too underpowered for CNC but should work fine for Prusa. I can replace 2 Nema17 steppers on my Prusa freeing them up for extruder and x-carriage on a new one.

The motor should not be bolted down hard as this would cause more problems if the toolhead impacts the print(or the bed!) and allows for a little wiggle just like Prusa's original design.

I used the vertex profile, so measuring and tightening the frame remains the same. Edit your frame-vertex.scad file so it doesn't produce a shape by default. I include the one I use, so edited, it's from the Prusa Felt Branch.

Notice that the motor does cross the top of the z-smooth-rod. Position the smooth rod so that it doesn't quite touch the motor. This was a compromise so that spacing between the motor shaft and the smooth rod is "Standard" -- the same as with a nema 17 design.

Still working on a printed coupler. But any Nema23 to 8mm coupler should work.

Replacement Hand Crank for a "B&D Workmate" early model.
My workmate was bought in the 1980's and is almost 100% metal with a wood top. It is similar to the Black & Decker 21321 model or WM425. The swivel-clamp-pegs and the hand cranks are plastic.
One of my hand cranks broke and epoxy didn't fix it so I took the measurements and designed a replacement.

The replacement I designed now has a double handle but it's easy to delete the second crank from the OpenScad file if you want it more like the original. I believe the double crank will give better leverage to really tighten the clamp and loosen it again.

I also thickened up the crank and head quite a bit, and added some reinforcement since a printed part isn't as durable as a molded part. The critical dimensions should be the same. The angles are changed to make it easier to print but that shouldn't matter much.

This puzzle is made from 6 identical pieces. Print or carve 6 of these and then figure out how to assemble them into the interlocking shape. Fun!!

Edit: I am using this as a calibration piece. Each one got better than the previous by tweaking one (or two) settings. And when you have 6 you get the complete puzzle. That way the repetitive calibration piece isn't a throw away.


There is also an "improved" version that may be more of a challenge to print with 2 unsupported faces.
Edit: The impoved .stl is now fixed using sketchup and netfab. It may work now.

This puzzle should scale up or down pretty well.

The assembled puzzle is a great desk ornament that stays together just long enough to be picked up and played with, but if one piece is pulled out too much the whole thing just falls apart. People's expressions should be priceless.

Edit: Google SketchUp file added.