This small hook/clip is sized and shaped to perfectly hold any standard sized clay pigeon (used in trap or skeet shooting) and allow it to be hooked onto anything handy at the target range, a string, a hole in a target backer, etc.

I think this actually hits several "sweet spots" for being useful 3D printing. It's small and easy to print. It's geometrically simple yet has a precise required shape. It would be too much work to make by hand. It's strong enough to do the job, but doesn't represent so much work or material that you're worried about it being damaged (or lost). And of course, the more of them, the merrier!

There are two designs; same concept, just different "hook" designs. If you're not sure, just use 'clay-hook.stl'.

My brother called up one day with a dilemma. He needed to mount his Xbox Kinect on his plasma TV, but didn't want to spend $40 on a cheap looking commercial mount. Knowing that I have an awesome 3d printing bot (which he usually says i'm wasting my time with), he gave me a few measurements of the TV to design a mount.

I already saw the trik tripod adapter and liked the design a lot, so I took the original STL file and started taking point geometry from it to create a new solid model. I then printed it and went to his house. Every thing fit well! Now it's mounted and has been in service for about a month.

***I'll get some pictures up after next week when I go and visit.

My acrylic insulator retainer broke when I tried to tighten the screws on it too much. My thermal insulator was a bit wobbly...

So I looked for a thing to print to replace it, but all I found was this
thingiverse.com/thing:1004
it should work just the same, but I thought I would update to the newest version (the non-round version)

A protective cover for a toothbrush in times of travel. Designed to be printable on a makerbot.

Far too often I find myself carrying my toothbrush in a plastic bag in my backpack, and sometimes even fully exposed. Before I waste the energy going out and trying to locate and purchase a cover, I figure I will enable the world with a solution in hopes that it will someday find its way back to me.

The cross section shows the conical inner wall leading up to a hole. This enables the part to print without support material, and the hole allows for easy cleaning under the faucet. The outer wall maintains the smooth semi elliptical form, causing thick areas near the top. I am interested to see how much deformation this may cause.

Total volume of part: 0.49 cubic inches

A practical flower pot shaped accessory! Hold toothbrushes, pencils, scissors, use as an ashtray, or come up with your own unique function. There is about 11 cubic in. of volume; based on what other people have posted for cost that should be around $3.xx in material.

This is a 2 piece design, allowing the user to unscrew the top and clean or get access to the insides with a simple 1/4 turn. The connection was influenced by Wizard23's idea for a Screw-able jewelry box ( thingiverse.com/thing:413 ), which I was able to see in person and it works beautifully. Be careful with the top because there is an extra mechanical advantage since the top is wider, so it should take less force to unscrew.

I dont have a makerbot, so I designed this conservatively. However, I took a couple printing risks with the details at the very bottom and very top. I think it should print based on my experience with other 3d printers, so I am very excited to see the Thingiverse community bring it to life.

Please send me your feedback!

I will update the files if there are reports of problems or someone wants a specific change.

I designed this section of Toy Train Track for MakerBot printing. It's compatible with the Thomas, Ikea and Brio brand wood toy train tracks.

For larger objects, getting raft and lower layers to stay stuck can be a challenge. Earlier simple copies had serious warpage issues, so I changed to a lattice structure. This gives the lower layers a chance to flex and cool independent upper geometry. There was still some separation of the raft from the build platform, but it was minor compared to previous iterations.

The main track portion of the fabject is 54mm long and 40mm wide. Total length is 72mm.

Note: The socket-side tends to be a bit tight with some track; you may need to widen the hole for a looser fit.

This is a stylus that I made for a friend of mine who had lost the one in his NDS lite. This one fits rather nicely into the DS lite's dedicated stylus slot, and works very well on its touch screen. I'm sure you can use it on other screens, as well.

Say goodbye to SMT component identification misery with this pair of active tweezers that plug right into your trusty multimeter!

As you pick up an SMT component to put it onto the solder paste on a PCB, these tell you what the component is automatically.

This is a coin with the TWIT logo on based on the original MakerBot Coin.

Bre Pettis was recently on FLOSS Weekly discussing the MakerBot. It is a podcast on the TWIT Network about open source projects hosted by Leo Laporte, Randal Schwartz and Jono Bacon. It is a really interesting show and they have had people from the Arduino and Processing projects in the past year and have RepRap lined up for a future show. If you missed the show you can check it out at twit.tv/floss92

I do not own a 3D printer yet but it should print without issue as it's based on the original MakerBot Coin and is fully manifold.

UPDATE: Lindsay25 was kind enough to print a copy and sent it to me. I have attached a picture comparing the size to a British 2p coin. I measured it and it is accurate to the millimetre with the Blender design.

I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

A Makerbot branded business card displayer.

A hard, printable business card case, perfect for carrying around those fragile, elaborate business cards.

A simple printable tool for getting the most out of your tubes of toothpaste, lotion, etc.

At a recent trade show, I noticed an astonishing amount of beauty and cosmetic products using the same toothpaste tube-like storing containers. By the end of it, the representatives were struggling to give out samples while the tubes were taking on that all-too-familiar form. ( re-nest.com/uimages/re-nest/toothpaste.jpg )

I couldn't help but think about how I would solve this problem with a (hypothetical) makerbot.

The slot width is made to fit the largest of flattened toothpaste tubes found amongst my friends.

The front slot is drafted just a touch to ease the initial insertion of the tube, and the large circular surface is intended to get that last extra bit once the squeezer reaches the back of the nozzle.

This design uses a total of 2.7 cubic inches of material.

It's never a bad idea to have spare parts for your MakerBot lying around.

I have an old batch 2 MakerBot with outdated z-guides which make removing the z-stage really difficult. Luckily the new version of the z-guide is super easy to print out.

Also interesting is the x-rod bracket. Upgrading to the newer, skinnier rods is a little easier now and you need four less lasercut parts.

Yay. Hardware upgrades over the internet!

If you want to make any of your own parts the dxf's are all online (or in the repository svn.makerbot.com/).

Here's a peek at what MakerBeam looks like!

We were hoping to get this printed awhile ago, but people get busy, things happen, and apparently boards fry on neighborhood MakerBots, so here it is: a 10 cm long mockup of MakerBeam.

We call this a mockup because the beam profile will not be this exactly. This should be easier to print, and we're not quite done revising the tooling documents with our manufacturer. It's got the basics down: a 10x10mm beam with a 3mm slot. It won't hold circuit boards or other thin panels as well as the actual extruded beam.

Many connectors one might design based on this profile will work no problem; some might have to be modified slightly. Have fun playing around!

The original file has multiple problems for printing and is included as a reference. The 10mm standing file and the 15x15mm file print fine according to Erik de Bruijn, who made the modifications. I recommend printing the 15x15mm model to end up with something you can play with.

kickstarter.com/projects/701662757/makerbeam-an-open-source-building-kit

After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl)

This is a drag chain for the MakerBot extruder cable (or any other cable/wires).

It keeps your extruder cable out of the Z-stage belt and let your MakerBot look professional (kind of...)

The objects need very detailed printing in order to work. You definitely want a good tuned MakerBot and Skeinforge settings to print this (don't say I didn't warn you!).

The ZIP file contains GCode files for all objects, including 6 or 8 chain links on one raft. It might be the best to skeinforge the gcode with your own, tuned settings. The included GCode files worked for me (resp. my MakerBot), but (again): these are some really hairy objects to print.

This is part 3 of "Pimp my MakerBot" (see thingiverse.com/thing:973 and thingiverse.com/thing:958 for part 1 & 2 :)

I was tired of dragging on the Z belt multiple times to upper or lower the z stage of my MakerBot.

With this crank mounted on one of the 4 M6 threaded rods, I can now easily adjust the height of my MakerBot.

This is a handle for the Z-Crank ( thingiverse.com/thing:975 ).

This is a simple clip-on endstop trigger for the Z-stage endstops.

This is a small piece to mount a neon lamp.
It's a replacement for the original mounting clamps which were way to weak to hold the lamp.

Just for fun, I also produced a little documentation movie for this: "Better Living with MakerBot"
See: youtube.com/watch?v=LBzyZSVK_Gs

Although the size of the clamp is probably very specific to the lamp I mounted, it should be quite simple to adjust the object for your needs. I included the model as OBJ-File (Wavefront), which can be opened with Blender and AOI.