This is a lab jack, which is a height adjustable platform ideal for mounting optomechanical sub-assemblies, which require height adjustment.

This component is part of the open-source optics project, whose goal is to radically reduce the cost of scientific optical hardware: appropedia.org/Open_source_optics by the Michigan Tech's Open Sustainability Technology Research Group. mse.mtu.edu/MOST

This is part of a larger project to reduce the cost of scientific equipment using open-source hardware. Read more: mtu.academia.edu/JoshuaPearce/Papers/1935580/Building_Research_Equipment_with_Free_Open-Source_Hardware

Hose clamp designed to control liquid flow through nylon/silicon tube. I made it for a siphon hose on my fish tank. I just pinch it close and it seals the pipe. Suits 10mm ID nylon tubing. Printed in green ABS, 0.3mm layers/solid fill on UP! Plus.

Blog with project history: deltabot.tumblr.com
Videos: youtube.com/user/jcrocholl/videos?query=rostock
More pictures: flickr.com/photos/jcrocholl/tags/rostock
More details about parts: thingiverse.com/tag:rostock
OpenSCAD source files: github.com/jcrocholl/rostock
Documentation: reprap.org/wiki/Rostock
Ask questions here: groups.google.com/group/deltabot

Rostock is a delta robot 3D printer prototype with the following design goals:

Build volume: 8x8x16 inches or 200x200x400 mm
Footprint: 12x14 inches
Print surface: 8x8 inches heated glass which never moves
Mass of end effector with two hotends: less than 150g
Positioning speed: 800 mm/s in all 3 directions
Positioning accuracy: at least 30 steps/mm in all 3 directions
Simplicity: fewer than 200 parts (not including washers, nuts and SMD-mounted electronics)
Hardware cost: less than $500 USD

Inspiration: search YouTube for "flexpicker" or "adept quattro".
Closest ancestor: heliumfrog.net63.net/deltarobot/delta.html

This is a filament extruder that turns pellets into plastic filament. The Filabot Wee is the first system in our product line up. If you have any questions please visit our forum at Filabot.com

Note:We are still working on nozzle sizes, files will be changing.

A redo of the Sketchup file so the stl file could be fixed in netfabb.

Here's a peek at what MakerBeam looks like!

We were hoping to get this printed awhile ago, but people get busy, things happen, and apparently boards fry on neighborhood MakerBots, so here it is: a 10 cm long mockup of MakerBeam.

We call this a mockup because the beam profile will not be this exactly. This should be easier to print, and we're not quite done revising the tooling documents with our manufacturer. It's got the basics down: a 10x10mm beam with a 3mm slot. It won't hold circuit boards or other thin panels as well as the actual extruded beam.

Many connectors one might design based on this profile will work no problem; some might have to be modified slightly. Have fun playing around!

The original file has multiple problems for printing and is included as a reference. The 10mm standing file and the 15x15mm file print fine according to Erik de Bruijn, who made the modifications. I recommend printing the 15x15mm model to end up with something you can play with.

kickstarter.com/projects/701662757/makerbeam-an-open-source-building-kit

A small planetary gears system with a ratio of 4:1 per stage, as many stages as wanted, small, open enclosure to see the gears, and hardware free.

The gears are designed with a circular pitch of 2.5mm and they are also slightly beveled at the tips of the teeth to avoid the need of cleaning the excess of material from the firsts layers.

The OpenSCAD is not parametric, there's only parameters for clearance (set to 0.2), backslash (set to 0.1), pressure angle (set to 22.5), tolerances between nuts and bolts (set to 0.4) and length of the bolts, sometimes referred as rods. Any other change will not work.

To play with the OpenSCAD you will need the following libraries:

Public Domain Involute Parameterized Gears by LeemonBaird
thingiverse.com/thing:5505

Poor man's openscad screw library
thingiverse.com/thing:8796

Knurled surface finishing library
thingiverse.com/thing:9095

The libraries have been included in the ZIP file together with STL files for every single part, build plates for complete sets from 1 to 4 stages, just the crank and upgrade kits from 1 stage to 2, 3 or 4.

1 minute video: youtu.be/MUH0MGP7AGc

A shorter video (59") featuring a 10 stages set: youtube.com/watch?v=FyVZ31tLGCU&feature=plcp

More Pics: flickr.com/photos/aubenc/sets/72157629731990190/

This is a universal paste extruder for RepRap and other 3D printers.

It allows you to experiment with various pastes on your 3D printer without the need for any air compressor equipment or valves etc.
It simply uses the existing Extruder motor output from your printer’s electronics.

It's designed to fit on the Quick-Fit X Carriage Thing 19590-

thingiverse.com/thing:19590

And it will also fit on Prusa and Greg style X carriages.

7th-4-2012- Split and added Gear set on two plates for Cupcake and smaller build-bed machines.

11-April - Uploaded Sketchup Source files (sorry for the delay)
I challenge you to make one that works with 50ml Syringes! or do a fully parametric version in SCAD :)

And a very big thank you to Greg Frost (and derivatives) for the wonderful work done on the Parametric Involute Bevel and Spur Gears script, without this, the gear set would have taken me a lot more time to make.
thingiverse.com/thing:3575

Here are all the 3D printed parts for the RepRapPro Ltd version of Mendel. This is a three-head machine, so it will do colour and multi-material printing.

Mew Mew is a modular desk tidy system so you can keep you pencils, pens, paper-clips and other office supply goodies neat and tidy on your desk.

The system allows you to combine the hexagon based Mew Mew in different ways; each Honey Pot slides together simply and easily.

A valve for liquids, driven by a servo motor. This way you could automate a flow of liquid.

Arduino case with two different covers. One cover is low profile for just the arduino. The other cover is for the excellent Video Experimenter shield from nootropic design.

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

-- UPDATE 4/13/2013 --

I added a second type of box: now you can use a sliding lid. Prints nicely, with a very steep angle in the lip so no overhang problems. I'm using these as chess boxes, card deck boxes, screw sorters, etc.

Still fully parametric, of course.

-- UPDATE 5/6/2013 --

Okay, finding a lot of uses for this recently. :)

I added a parameter to include a coin slot in the lid. Now it's a divided piggy bank too! (My 8-year-old son uses it to handle savings, etc. separately.)

I made this for my brother so he could have sensors or equipment navigate over a microwell plate en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microtiter_plate
it might not be all that useful to anyone else but still I might as well put it up here if anyone is interested.
I added the sketchup model for any parts that I missed on the stl files so just use that to extract parts.
I’m not going in to a full assembly description but for more details you can have a look at this post over at LMR. It also has a video.
letsmakerobots.com/node/31381

UPDATE:
Just now I got some information on the 28BYJ-48 steppers that I used and can verify that this is a problem. So for anyone trying to build a sub-mm accuracy XY table, please try finding other stepper motors.
This is the information I’m talking about;
arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,71964.0.html

This is a carabiner with a self tightening latch. I designed this and printed it using ABS. The final product is very strong.

Update: I added a carabiner with a relief for PLA.

This stand has a nice feature: The inclination can be adjusted, and therefore the laptop screen position (in height).

From an ergonomic point of view of, the top border of the laptop screen should be at the same height than your eyes.

It is designed to be 20cm width, and this size serves for almost all laptops, from tiny netbooks to the biggest gaming monsters.

You will also need the following vitamins:

• 3 x 8mm (and 20cm long) threaded bars
• 12 x M8 nuts
• 12 x M8 washers

If it's hard for you to find these threaded bars just contact me: I can cut them for you.

Although the provided files are for 3D printers, this stand is a perfect candidate for a laser cutter also.

The blog said someone should make these so I did.

I had this model sitting on my hard drive since Christmas 2010, completely forgotten until this blogpost: blog.thingiverse.com/2012/02/21/oo-someone-make-one-of-these/

One hour on the Thing-O-Matic and here we are: youtube.com/watch?v=mebIrOiDggw

It's a very different experience, seeing the model in person. The illusion is not convincing at all for the two-eyed among us.

I designed this to be able to use my Dremel tool & extension shaft as a small cutoff saw. It can cut about 1/4" (6mm) diameter stock in a single cut, or 1/2" (13mm) by turning the stock.
Requires an extension shaft with a 1/2" diameter handpiece; unfortunately, a lot of the extension shafts currently available have contoured handpieces and won't work.
ZIP file contains source files from Solidworks 2011.

I was looking for a cable holder to attach to the side of my work bench to hold a bunch of smaller cables. I couldn't find one that was exactly what I was looking for so I made my own. It has three screw holes for easy mounting to the surface of your choice and will hold smaller cables (like USB cables) quite nicely.

It is 125mm long with 12 5mm wide slots. The ends have a 4mm raised bit to help keep your cables from sliding off.

I've included my SketchUp file if you would like to modify it to suit your needs.

A simple cable rack you can use to organize your measurement cables etc.

This is my second prototype of a Sarrus linkage type linear axis. A Sarrus linkage uses hinged joints to make linear motion. The idea is to have a linear bearing suitable for making part of an x-y cartesian assembly without needing long polished metal rods, thus getting a 3D printer that can make more of its own parts.

Notice that there is a set of 4 holes on the top armature that match 4 hole patterns on the end pieces. This means that one axis could mount on two others at right angles.

Drive system: DC motor from a cheap garage sale inkjet printer, using the timing belt from the printer. The pulley at the other end of the belt is a screw/washer/spacer combination with a skate bearing. The skate bearing is mounted in a flexure plate style mount to give tension the belt.

Optical feedback: I took a optical quadrature encoder and encoder strip from the same printer as the motor. The encoder is mounted on the moving armature, and the strip is anchored at both ends in the end blocks.

Hinges: The hinges on the Sarrus linkage are made with 1/16" diam brass rod as the hinge pins. The holes for the hinge pins were reamed out with a 1/16" drill bit.

Frank Davies

Sarrus linkage linear bearing

This is an implementation of the Sarrus linkage that may be useful for reprap type machines. It is made from ABS printed on my repstrap, with 1/16" (1.6 mm) brass rods for the hinge pins and 4-40 screws to hold the spine sections together. The hinge pin holes were chased with a 1/16 drill bit, and the screw holes with a 1/8" bit. The two ends are made of one center block cut in half with a saw, and there are some other holes that were drilled rather than printed.

It has a total swing of 100 mm. This is set by the length of the spine, and could easily be 110 mm. It moves very smoothly, and was stiffer than I thought it would be. The center block only moves down about 0.2mm with a 460 gram payload. Interestingly the droop is about the same over the whole range of motion. It stays well within 0.2mm of a straight line as it moves.

A payload (extruder?) could mount on the central block, which could be widened.

Set of planetary gears and arms to hold the planet gears in place.

Based off OpenSCAD code from thing:7390 (after cutting out significant portions of it - because the original thing is much more than a toy).

The gear ratios are very interesting, and (at least at first) non-intuitive, depending on the part that is held stationary.

With a fixed Annulus or Sun, this gives 1:6.
With a fixed Planet carrier, this gives 1:5.

Just a quick cookie cutter that I threw together in SketchUp.

Sorry, I know there are a bunch of cookie cutters up already, and there might already be several gingerbread men, but here's mine.

"Hasenfranz" is a neat bunny-cookie cutter that will let you cut nice easter cookies :) Mjummy!!

Print out and feel free to use it on your desired cookies mixture!

I designed this a very long time ago, but I never posted the files. Every so often someone asks me for them. It is a fan mount that can attach either to your X carriage or to a RepRap Mendel's X carriage. Thanks to StefanHH for his original ball socket design!

Liking StefanHH's ball links, but wanting to extend add my own mounts, I re-modeled it in Inventor... Adding my own ends.

The outer dimensions are different, but it still fits the 15mm ball.

I've also added the ability to tighten the joints by using fine cord, or twisted lockwire, or an elastic.

I likes that design of Wildseyed Spool Feeder but i don't want to waste plastic for the big Vertex feet. Also i made some feet for this design :)

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

This is a tool to bend the leads on a component, such as a resistor, to a specific width to allow easy placment onto a PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

This came about when I recently saw Erik's lead bending tool ( thingiverse.com/thing:6699 ), saw that he didn't have a version with different widths, and remembered a post on Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories ( evilmadscientist.com/article.php/obscuretools ) about a resistor lead bender. When I first saw the post, I thought it was a neat tool, but I couldn't do much with it the idea. Now that 3D printing has come along, here it is, the DIY Lead Bender. (Dramatic Music playing in the background... Ok, maybe it's not that dramatic)

A few things to note are: The OpenSCAD file is available and is somewhat commented (If you have questions feel free to ask). Also this has not been printed yet (2/25/11), so it may work, but it might not.

I'll post some pictures of the printed tool once my Thing-O-Matic comes. (Only a few days left! :-D)

In the mean time, here are the statistics for the default STL.
Print Stats: (All stats are approximate)
- Time: 14 min.
- Plastic used: 3cc
- Cost (@ $0.024 USD per CC): $0.07 USD
(Note: These values will change depending on your 3D printer and settings.)