For those who just can't get enough of burr puzzles...

This puzzle's design pulled from researchweb.watson.ibm.com/BurrPuzzles/B6HB10.html It was categorized under General higher level burr puzzles. This is a level 10 puzzle with a unique solution.

Note: I rotated piece 4 to turn an overhang into a bridge. This built cleanly on my cupcake with minimal sagging at the default size 6.

While I found the Philippe Dubois burr slightly challenging, I found this one much harder.

This design was inspired by theorbtwo's marker holder, except I wanted something open that didn't need to be fastened shut. This part should help rapidly color a length of filament feed stock with a few swipes.

This is designed to take a fine point sharpie marker and paint a 3mm filament.

This part and a commonly available chopstick can hold a 10mm thick ebook at a 60 or 30 degree angle.

The other stands on thingiverse don't have an adjustable angle, and many are meant for cell phones and are not sturdy enough or long enough to support a heavier and larger ebook. Adding a leg and back long enough to support a 6" ebook makes the part not fit in a cupcake, but the chopstick solves that...

Specialized wire antennas frequently require mounting hardware in various configurations to provide mechanical stability. This is a collection of parametric parts designed to assist with constructing various wire antennas.

All of these models are parametric and should be easily adjustable to fit your needs.

I liked the design of the previous stand, but wanted to change the angle and gap size, and possibly the length of the support tail on the base, so I adjusted the model to be parametric.

This variation on my releaux triangle was inspired by user elspeth.
You could describe this as a triangle that rolls inside a square inside a triangle that rolls inside a square.

Tired of the points breaking off your pencils when you put them in your pocket with your keys? No more! This handy tool will forevermore keep your pencils safe!

I wanted a small box to hold a few pills that would keep them clean and safe from crushing. But this box could be used for anything small with some adjustments to the cavity shape. The lid uses a dovetail joint for tightness and fit tolerance.

This model is fully parametric, but some of the parameters need some work so that the adjusted box always works. Some of the walls may be thicker than necessary.

The first design holds 4 pills in two stacks. The second design holds 5 pills on their edge instead.

The second version of the lid has a square indention (which bridges nicely) to make opening the box easier.

The outside dimensions of the two boxes are identical.

Needed a simple buckle for a cloth strap and couldn't find one the right size...

This is probably not the most efficient or strong buckle, but it works.

Variations on a golf ball...

My first attempt didn't survive meeting the club, this one is sturdier. The hollow one survived one hit with a putter, but not the driver. The version with internal heavy support survived at least one hit with the driver. (But, being white, it was lost. Next one I make will be fluorescent red.)

The -sh version is hollow, but with external supports.
The -ss version has heavy internal support and thin external supports.
The -out version is the outside only, drawn in blender.
The scad version hollows the outside from blender and adds the support pieces.

I challenge someone to figure out how to do the blender part in openscad! (Wtih parametric depth or something...)

This is a derivative of both thing:1088 and thing:1082, with inspiration from the improved snap from thing:5322. However the pattern was totally redrawn from basic principles to make it fully parametric, rather than relying on the original dxf outlines.

The point of this design is to take full advantages of the abilities of a 3d printer, rather than just converting a laser cut design into a 3d part with difficult overhangs. The triangle should end up fully trapped inside the case.

Note that from a top view, it may appear the triangle and case overlap, but from a per-layer perspective, they are separated by the tolerance, and do not actually touch.

This part is an example of interesting support structure more than a part most people would find useful.

I have a waterproof camera case with a latch that broke in the first month I had the case. Rather than order a new latch from the company with the same flaw, I decided to just make one -- and the printed one is much stronger, despite having nearly the same dimensions.

The build direction for this part was chosen for maximum strength, although other directions would probably also need support structure of some sort.

This is some further refinement from thingiverse.com/thing:4126 both with and without the mandible from thingiverse.com/thing:3580, both whole and sliced in half.

In my previous attempt, I deleted all of the inside to create a solid object with all the porous and hollow parts filled in, and all external holes closed.

This time, I did the reverse, deleting all of the outside and the smaller internal features, to create simple internal volume (mostly the brain cavity). Then I subtracted the cavity from the solid object, did a small amount of further refinement, and then split it. I reduced the resolution of the mandible from thingiverse.com/thing:3580 to match the resolution of the skull then smoothed, scaled and rotated it to fit as closely as possible. I then cut off and cleaned the remains of the skull's original mandible and subtracted this mandible from the results.

This should give a partially hollow model that still has all the small internal details that can't be seen removed. I have uploaded (and included in the blender file) both the original cleaned skull and the one with the replacement mandible fit in. I also sliced both skulls, but only included the bottom for the second one, since the top didn't change.

I hope that the results will take less time to print than the previous two models.

Work on this model was done with Meshlab and blender.

I have a netgear gs105 network switch, which has no fan and vents on the side. I think it was designed to hang on a wall by its screw holes, because it overheats sitting flat.

So I built this stand to let me put it on its side while elevating it high enough to keep the vents clear. It runs much cooler this way! I notice the newer models netgear sells come with a stand.

This model is parametric, so if you've got a different device with a different width, you can adjust it to fit.

I've spent some time and learned meshlab and blender a bit more and attempted to clean up this skull. Not a perfect job I'm sure, but better.

Being from a biomedical scan, the original had lots of internal details that are really cool to explore, but aren't too interesting when you're printing the object. I've removed all of the insides of the skull, and closed all the holes. (I never knew human heads had so many holes -- much more than the obvious 7, and all the ducts to go with them too.)

In particular, I had to close the eye sockets, the nose, some areas in the mouth, and the spinal column. All of these large closed holes left ugly scars, which I then smoothed in blender.

I think the result is better and should take about half the time to print, even though it is now solid instead of hollow. If it was actually hollow, it should take even less time to print.

I will eventually try to hollow this version out (without making it paper thin if I can) and slice it in half for easy printing, as was done with the original.

This is my first attempt at cleaning up a model like this. I could probably start over and do a better job in a fraction of the time with what I've learned, so criticism of this work (what did I miss?) would be appreciated.

This is a wing nut or knob for a 1/4" threaded rod designed to comfortably fit fingers.

Since the model is fully parametric, the hole size can be adjusted to match your rod, or the number of finger holes can be adjusted, etc...

The model works well with 3, 4, and 5 wings. More wings would fit if the radius was increased or the finger hole decreased, etc.

Note that the hole is conical, a bit larger on the bottom to make threading it easy. The knob should self thread onto the rod.

I had some problems breaking the support structure from the inner ball, so I brought it into blender, separated the inner and outer balls into separate meshes, and separated the inner ball from its support.

I then hollowed the support.

The original support is still in the blender file along with the hollowed support and the inner and outer balls, all in different layers for easy mix and match or additional editing. Also, just in case someone wants to print the parts separately (and, like, cheat by dropping the inner one into the other one after it is half printed), I will include STL files for both the two balls together with the hollow support, and the two separate balls.

I've been storing my filament on cardboard spools thingiverse.com/thing:1550 which works fairly well, but the plastic likes to unroll itself. Clothes pins are mostly effective to hold it on, but they are easy to bump and knock off.

Here is a fully parametric model for a simple clip that will slip into the edge of the spool, with a hole in it just the right size to hold onto your filament.

This clip is good enough for filament that is just sitting around, but if you wanted to ship it, probably you'd want something you could screw down or maybe add tape to this as well.

Yet another wire hanger...

This is designed to temporarily hold wires. The sides should be flexible, so the wire can both slip in and out with a small amount of force. The opening is tapered to help make this easy.

This clip has less bottom surface area than some of the other wire hangers, and so might not hold to the adhesive as well. This might limit the amount of weight it can support.

This is a revisit of my previous candy dispenser (which is also included in the scad file), except the printed cavity is replaced with a Prego 24 oz sauce bottle. (Let me know if you need more details to find one.) The top here screws tightly into the bottle's threads using a simple mechanism similar to what the jar's original lid uses. (If you over tighten, it will harmlessly slip off the end of the threads and go around another time while remaining tight.)

If you can't find a bottle this size, you can modify the dimensions in the scad file to match your bottle. (If you need help with this, I'll add a test part that prints quickly for fit checking. I used one, but didn't include it in this scad file unfortunately.)

The slide has a hole on each side for two springs. It only needs one. I left out the spring entirely, gravity feed works well enough.

I've also experimented with several different sizes, all successful variations are still in this file, just uncomment the set you like.

The STL files here are sized for Jelly Belly jellybeans. It also works for Skittles and Reece's Pieces, but sometimes dispenses two at a time. (This is a feature!) Unfortunately, peanutbutter M&M's are a much larger diameter, and don't fit. (But the scad file probably could be adjusted for them, I haven't tried.) There are several sets of preset sizes listed in the scad file if you want to choose a different variation.

I made this derivative wire organizer because I wanted a parametric object that I could size exactly rather than an object I had to scale to get right.

This is more inspired by the cable catcher than an actual copy.
This design is also a bit thinner, so it uses less material, without sacrificing much strength.

I've uploaded two sizes, one with a 6mm gap and 9mm hole, suitable for network and video cables, and one with a 7mm gap and 12mm hole, suitable for power cords. (If you've got a favorite size, let me know...)

I took guru's very cool OpenSCAD file, cleaned it up, made it fully parametric, and fiddled with the parameters.

Specifically, the following parameters are different:
* I made the rings a bit thicker so the build quality is improved.
* The number of rings is now adjustable, and they are arranged in a circle.
* I played with the tilt of the rings and the distance between them so they didn't overlap. (necessary, since they are now bigger)
* The *tor* versions have had the cylinder section replaced with a toroid and have been further tweaked.

The ideal offset between rings could probably be calculated, but I don't feel like thinking that hard just right now. (Maybe in a future revision.)

I've included here 3 and 7 ring sets. Up to 7 can be made before the first and last rings overlap. The toroid version has been tweaked so that 10 rings can fit and make a complete circle.

Guru's original design makes the ring out of a section of a cylinder, and I have left that version in the file. I have included a torus (revolved circle) version of the ring as well. However, the torus version, due to the slightly smaller perimeter, has a slightly worse surface finish. (I may tweak this and try a larger diameter later.)

If you've got the spring loaded ram chips, or you're only putting in one, you might not need this, but if you have to upgrade a large number of ram chips of the style that need to be forcefully pushed in, it's hard on the hands.

This tool makes it easy to apply an even amount of force across the whole chip without digging a hole in your thumbs or hands, using either the top curved surface against the heel of your palm or the two thumb depressions on either side.

This is a small candy dispenser for small disc shaped candies.

It has a carrying capacity equal to a small vending bag, and has been tested against at least one particular brand. The scad file is near fully parametric, so it can be adjusted for small variations in candy size with other similar shaped candies.

I'd like to thank thingiverse.com/thing:2909 for inspiration.

Update: Tested successfully with M&M's and Reeses Pieces. Skittles are taller, and won't fit with the default numbers in candy.gcode and the first set of parts.

Update: I've added room for a spring!

I've uploaded a revised version (candy2.scad) with added code to put holes in the base and slide to house the spring from a pen. I've also more fully commented the parameters that can be adjusted in the file.

I've uploaded the revised stl parts (sp-candyslide and sp-candybot), with increased height to fit skittles. (It still works for the other candies of course.) The same top part fits with these bottom parts.

This is a string winder is for making coils of string using a figure 8 pattern sometimes known as a mountaineer's coil.

This is designed for a 6mm square chopstick to fit in the holes. This design is unfortunately not parametric, but I've left enough steps in the blender model for it to be easily modified.

A pair of 5 inch posts easily holds a 100 feet of 3/32" string.

Layer 1 has the final meshed part; layer 2 has the winding posts. Layer 3 has the part with the original bezier curves. There should be enough here to modify it for whatever posts you have.

Update: I've uploaded a larger version for those with big hands.

Yet another makerbot Z stage crank...

All the other cranks are nice (I like thingiverse.com/thing:1359 in particular) but they all have those pesky handles. And with the foldable crank, every now and then I forget to fold it and it runs into something.
Also, I found that I wasn't using the handle that sticks up -- I'd just use the length of the crank for leverage and push it around with my finger.

So, this crank is a little bit longer than the foldable crank when folded, and instead of a handle, it has three possible places you can stick a finger for maximum comfort and control.

These hooks are sized to hang several typical computer video, power, and network cables from a table or wall or something.

The small hook can be placed with the flat side mounted either up or back.

The large hook is designed for gravity to pull the cables towards the front to minimize bunching up and blocking the opening when hanging lots of cables together, and has a long neck to make drilling screw holes easier for extra sturdy mounting.

Both hooks can be mounted with double sided foam sticky tape.


Note: fixed a thin spot in cablehook-sm. If someone knows a better way to get this shape out of blender, I'd be interested.

This fits into the slot in the base of a Dremel Workstation (220-01).
This might help stabilize a work piece.

I upload this in the hopes it will give others ideas for similar accessories.

Possible future improvements in future parts (room for others' innovation): a taper to make intital fit easier; a way to tighten it for extra stability; a part that grips while swiveling.

The file format is brl-cad.

Ok, so this is a 2d object for a postscript printer, instead of a 3d printer.

But we have rulers and protractors in the tool list, and there are those out there who may not be so endowed. So if you've got a printer, and no protractor, you now have no excuse.

I wrote this years ago when I was learning postscript, thought it would be useful here.