Set of planetary gears and arms to hold the planet gears in place.

Based off OpenSCAD code from thing:7390 (after cutting out significant portions of it - because the original thing is much more than a toy).

The gear ratios are very interesting, and (at least at first) non-intuitive, depending on the part that is held stationary.

With a fixed Annulus or Sun, this gives 1:6.
With a fixed Planet carrier, this gives 1:5.

This is a square solid inside a triangular hole within a triangular solid inside a square hole.

The predecessor to this design featured a triangle inside a square hole within another triangle inside a square hole. It sounded nice but the square hole broke up the symmetry of the triangle, plus it didn't exploit the reciprocal capability of a reuleaux triangle to contain a square inside a triangular hole.

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

a very good working comb

ABS fumes are likely not good for you, but sealing off your Thingomatic so that it's impractical to use is not too great either.

This parametric design is a halfway house, it filters most of the fumes through activated charcoal using a 200mm computer fan and variable speed controller. The filter is located at the back, and the sides and top are covered with clear lexan sheet and thumbscrews. This serves to only allow air to enter through the front and allows access through the front.

Remember to replace your activated charcoal every few weeks, a lot of air is being pulled through so it will get used up fast.

Adjust the fan speed controller, you want the fan at a slow speed, just fast enough to pull the air through. The faster the fan is, the less time the air is in contact with the charcoal and the less effective it will be. You can test air is being pulled through by using an incense stick or draft test stick.

This is my first design, so it's less than perfect (particularly in the segmentation), but it does work and can be assembled. Improvements that could be made is the way that the parts join together. Also occasionally the filament is bent when the Z axis is zero'd to the top, although this doesn't cause any issues for me.

Fan Speed Controller: pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/PWM_Fan_controller_using_a_555

Thumb Screws can be found here: thingiverse.com/thing:9094

A swift holds a skein of yarn while it is being wound into a ball, so you don't have to fight it all the way.

If you're a hardcore knitter, you buy your yarn from hippy communes in faraway places, or you spin it yourself[1]. This gives you yarn in skeins - long loops that are good for dyeing, but non-trivial to knit with. To get it into a ball, you need someone or something to hold it and prevent tangles, while you do the winding by hand or with a ball winder. That's where the swift comes in: it holds a skein of yarn, and rotates gently on demand, allowing to you to unwind/rewind yarn as needed without requiring a large family to assist you.

The canonical example of a swift is the umbrella swift. Wikipedia has a picture: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swift_%28textiles%29 . We[2] wanted something similarly light, yet sturdy enough for the wildest of knitting parties.

The arms of the swift expand to the diameter required for the skein when you press the top disk downwards, at least 1.8m for the parts given here. It is mounted on a rod around which it can rotate freely, but with enough dampening to not over-wind. It just feeds you yarn on demand.

A video of the assembled swift: youtu.be/Rj0PEjT_9D4


[1] Disclaimer: we are not knitters, this is merely an observation.
[2] I'm not the only one, rspanton was also involved in this project thingiverse.com/user:902

Updated Design
Change Log - 12-04-2011
-Updated Spindle Base Design to Make Pockets Faceted for Easier Printing
-Updated Masters to Include New Spindle Base
-Added Counterbalance Hardware
-Removed WIP, Design Complete!

Change Log - 11-25-2011
-Yarn Guide Added
-Ball Winder Base Drawing Added
-Spindle Updated to Remove Mtl
-Spindle Base Updated to Remove Rounds & Add Support
-Carriage Updated to Remove Mtl & Add Spacer
-Spindle Updated to Add Support
-Updated all STL Files
-Added Creo (Pro/E) Native CAD Files
-Added Exploded Assembly Views
-Updated Parts/Fastener List

This printable wool winder creates center-pull balls from raw hanks of yarn, it must be used in combination with a yarn swift, I will work on a printable swift in the future.

I designed this winder for my mother who was having troubles with her current ball winder, a new equivalent winder was priced around $50. I felt like I could design and make a better winder for only a few $ in purchased parts (most I had around) and plastic. Plus I know how it works so if it breaks I can fix it.

The winders function is pretty simple but really fun to watch. The motion of the winder can be explained as such. The hand crank, when turned causes the center carriage mechanism to rotate around a stationary cone. The motion of the carriage in combination with the stationary cone causes the winding spindle to rotate about its axis. The winding spindle completes one rotation for every nine rotations of the hand crank. The dual spinning motion of the carriage and the spindle is what causes the yarn to take the form of a cylinder.

Video of the winder in action. youtu.be/iS2732Mlz7k

To build the winder you will need a few non-printable parts.

Qty 4 - 624ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 2 - 606ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 2 - 608ZZ Ball Bearings
Qty 1 - Compression Spring, McMaster-Carr P/N 9435K93
Qty 1 - O-Ring Size -237, McMaster-Carr P/N: 9396K226
Qty 1 - O-Ring Size -254, McMaster-Carr P/N: 9396K245
Qty 1 - 1/4" PTFE Tubing, McMaster-Carr P/N: 5239K12
Qty 3 - M3 x 30mm SHCS
Qty 3 - M3 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M4 x 40mm SHCS
Qty 1 - M4 x 30mm BHCS
Qty 2 - M4 x 16mm SHCS
Qty 3 - M4 Flat Washer
Qty 2 - M4 NyLoc Hex Nut
Qty 2 - M5 x 25mm SHCS
Qty 2 - M5 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M6 x 40mm SHCS
Qty 1 - M6 Flat Washer
Qty 2 - M6 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M8 Hex Nut
Qty 1 - M8 Threaded Rod (65mm Long)
Qty 2 - M10 Hex Nut
Qty 2 - M5 Acorn Nut
Qty 2 - M5 x 35mm FHCS
Qty 4 - 1/2" Tall Rubber Bumpers

Generates perspective illusions that look like one thing when viewed from one angle and another from a different angle.

Inspired by this: youtube.com/watch?v=BLFqylVh6g8

This set of parts adds a fume hood to your Cupcake CNC that's meant to be used along with the Cupcake "oven" covers:
thingiverse.com/thing:13937

There are holes for the filament feed, Z-rod access (for both left and right handed user), and a 3" port that you can hook up to the air handling solution of your choice (maybe this? thingiverse.com/thing:7152). It sets on the top bolts of the Cupcake for easy installation an removal.

More pics here:
flickr.com/photos/builttospec/6103855648/in/photostream

To those who have emailed me about the lack of files.. I'm updating the files please be patient no one is paying me to do this so progress is slow. My printer is also under repair and it will take some time to test my mods. The reason for the mods are to correct some problems and to back out changes made for the museum challenge as the entry was unsuccessful.

is my first attempt at a printable prosthetic hand. I have yet to finish the forearm and servo mounts... it all takes time. I have uploaded a 60% scale model for two reasons. One it has to fit within the guidelines of a particular competition and secondly it demonstrates the unique ability of 3D printers to rapidly produce the right size part for end use. eg from a child's to a very large man's hand. It also gives the user ability to upgrade or repair at home for a mere fraction of what this type of prosthetic currently costs. If any company or individual is interested in this work feel free to contact me.

Method for constructing a Negative-Pressure Activated-Carbon Fume Chamber.

Eliminate ABS fumes/smell when ventilation to the outside is not an option.

Compatible with HBP and APB.
Costs about $35 and runs at about 4 Watts.

This is an ABS fume reducer built to plug in to the MK6+ extruder frame. The MK6+ extruder frame forms a natural "vent hood" when you block off the sides with clear tape. This filter reduces the ABS fumes by around 80%-90%. The hood seems to be very efficient at picking up the abs fumes, but some of the fumes make their way through the filter due to the coarse nature of charcoal filter that was used. The tubing used is sold by the yard from a big-box home improvement place and is between 30-31mm in diameter at the narrower "plug-in portion".

Turn your Dremel into a blower or vacuum. It works really well!

.75" ID output port, 2.15" inlet. Inlet bolt circle is 2.438" in diameter, and is for 6 4-40 bolts.

Printed on a Fablicator!
fablicator.com

EDIT: The Impeller I believe is backwards. It still works very well, though. I'm going to re-print a mirrored version to see if it makes any difference.

EDIT2: The impeller works about the same despite being right or left handed. go figure.

I'm trying to make a mind controlled tentacle and this is where I'm at so far.

Right now, the ball and socket joints are a little too loose, and the movement isn't very good (partly due to the weight of the parts).

Also the sockets are a little stiff and fragile when printed with PLA

Once all that is sorted, I'll hook it up to some servos and the obligatory Arduino.

Video of it "working": youtu.be/EVMatHNgC6s

An easy to use "Swiss-Army" like organizer for keys!

Tired of your keys being a big sharp ball of metal? Tired of your keys making a bunch of noise as you walk around? The BladeKey key organizer solves those problems by keeping your keys in order. Your keys are held in with a single zip-tie and rotate out like a Swiss-Army knife as shown in the picture.

Relies on thingiverse.com/thing:8812 (Also Included In the Files Below)

I have provided an example STL, but you should generate one to fit your keys.

====== Description for NewMuseumChallenge ======
Q: How does it improve on or challenge existing design conventions? How does it utilize the unique ability of 3D printing to personalize and improve on the world around us?

A: BladeKey showcases the power of parametric design and 3D printing.

Previously, products for mass consumption had to be designed as "one size fits all." This was in large part due to the costs and limitations of traditional manufacturing techniques. In most instances, however, one size simply does not work for everyone.

Most people carry around a set of several keys. However, each person carries around keys of varying number and sizes. Key rings can hold any number and size of keys. Unfortunately, key rings allow keys to become disorganized. Accordingly, keys can be uncomfortable and noisy when placed in a pocket.

Designing a solution to this problem using traditional "one size fits all" design techniques becomes a complex challenge. A "one size fits all" key organizer can be designed to hold an average set of keys. But users that are not exactly average will be dissatisfied with the size or capacity of the product.

The parametric design of BladeKey solves the above problem without compromise. The parametric design can be easily customized to suit the needs of each individual user. Because the device can be designed to exactly the right size the device restrains keys to keep them quiet and organized. Additionally, keys are not uncomfortable when placed in a pocket because the device covers the sharp portions of the keys. The text on the device can also easily be customized by each user, or brand.

Unfortunately, a customizable product such as BladeKey simply can not be economically produced using traditional techniques. Each small customization would require a different and expensive injection mold. Using traditional manufacturing techniques, products such as BladeKey are only a dream.

The rise of affordable 3D printing has enabled mass production of customized products. Bring the dream into reality. Create your own BladeKey.

==============================================

Spent the past week doing a quick and dirty model of the Master Chief from Halo CE. I've spent way to much time looking at this model. I love you Bungie but i Also hate the triangle count you made me use with this model.

More detailed model to come. As time allows.

EDIT:
the more detailed model it set as MK V for Detailing 2.

A simple sphere made from three interlocked rings I made one day to show the whole process to a friend.

The dimensions of the rings in the provided stl files are 60mm outer diameter, 20mm height and 3mm thickness. They have been generated with one face at every 2mm of the perimeter and also, a gap of 0.4mm in the slots which gave a nice fit for the rings printed by bot1334.

The zip file contains two more examples (40mm diameter, 5mm and 10mm height and, if I'm not wrong, 2mm thickness) however, I was not using any "gap" parameter for those so... they'll need some cleaning to fit properly.

Some more pics: flickr.com/photos/aubenc/sets/72157627518857918/

UPDATE:
Replaced the OpenSCAD file with v2 version which includes a production plate for the 3 rings in one build.
(I find the multiple colors a much nicer option though...)

Also added:
- A set for three rings that should fit in a Cupcake, their diameter is 48mm, height 16mm (thickness and gap same as above) and they are distanced 2mm.
- Another set for larger build envelopes with huge dimensions (180x60x4dot5.zip)

I have NOT printed those, hope they work fine, good luck if you try them!

BTW, feedback (and picture too) for the big set is highly welcome !!! specially if it doesn't work so no one else will waste time, plastic, energy... trying it out !!!

A simple and strong quick release for you to quickly mount and dismount your camera, or whatever, on anything you want. I am using this to mount my DSLR on a time lapse panning rig.

UPDATE
I have added a redesigned handle that uses less material and can turn left or right.

Another good use is to place this on a tripod that doesn't have a quick release.

Most of the information that I used to design this came from this PDF: personal.utulsa.edu/~kenneth-weston/chapter7.pdf

I didn't get around to adding the intake/exhaust ports and spark plug.

There is a video of this thing here: flickr.com/photos/53725866@N07/6329093033/

A revision of my previous joint for a Bunraku Style puppet. This version has less printed parts and less hardware.

This is a working zipper mechanism. I printed it as an experiment, inspired after the zipper on my wife's coat broke. (I don't think I can print a replacement, yet.) There might be applications to join small sections of a structure to make a large object, but mostly it's a toy.

a simple circular chain

don't scale it too little or the rings will stick one to the other

Small snap-fit cable carrier with enclosed top.

All the other cable carriers I'd tried to print either fit poorly or were too large.

Each link is slightly larger than a dime.

Still need to make end terminations, and I will likely be making some different sized derivatives in the next week.

Functional Pin Tumble lock. All of the components can be printed with the exception of the helix compression springs. These springs can be taken out of standard click pens. The springs I made this for are 4mm OD and ~20mm long.
I made a small window in the "Outer Barrel" to view the key pin pushing up on the driver pin.
This was a quick project to familiarize myself with the design constraints required for successful FDM designs/prints. I thought I would distribute since it could be fun for teaching and demonstrations.

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

Well its time again for a Portal Cube.

I found this some time ago as a post. I went searching recently and found it also as an Instructable. But, it is not easily accessible here via Thingiverse. I'd ask for the others to post the cube here but, I guess their stuff is too old to be monitored. So --- from: instructables.com/community/Rapidprototyped-Weighted-delCompaniondel-Stor/ --- Here is a Companion/Storage Cube.

Note: This is a BOX! I printed one very small Cube on my Thing-O-Matic (yellow) and a full 2" one on a V-Flash. Both are good to have!

I really like fountain pens and the huge variety of inks, nibs, styles, and the things you can do with them that you can't do with an ordinary ballpoint/felt pen. There are many advantages to using a fountain pen, and some disadvantages. One of them is, if the ink is too wet you can smear or cause transferring onto reverse sheets of paper.

The rocker blotter is a traditional device used to hold blotting paper and let's you easily pick up the excess ink from your writing without the smearing. You don't slide the paper across the writing (which would smear), you place the edge down and rock it across.

This video gives a pretty good overview, and that's where I picked up my strips of blotting paper (no affiliation): youtube.com/watch?v=JGsOU1EJumc

It's a big seven segment display :) I used three 5mm LEDs per segment with the intent that they could be wired in series and driven straight from a micro-controller output pin. Connecting my orange LED's wired up that way to a 5V supply gave a reading of 13 mA. A micro-controller should have no trouble driving the three leds without any transistors or resistors or anything. Depending on the voltage drop of your LED's you may need a small current limiting resistor.

I'd like to do a clock with this sometime soon. So I'll have to add an additional front plate with a clock type display instead of a decimal point.

Eventually I'll try for an 8 inch display using interlocking segments. Once the prusa is running I could do an 8 inch display all in one print. Of course the ultimate goal is a 12 inch display like evil mad scientist labs has for $50 each. Then world domination. (cue maniacal laughter)

A simple little witch's hat for Halloween!

To those who have emailed me about the lack of files.. I'm updating the files please be patient no one is paying me to do this so progress is slow. My printer is also under repair and it will take some time to test my mods. The reason for the mods are to corrects some problems and to back out changes made for the museum challenge as the entry was unsuccessful.

My redesign (derivative) upgrade of a classic toy from my childhood, the original one still can be purchased in shops but they do NOT fly horizontally. This one does, in fact it can even fly over houses and get lost! Lucky we can print another! It improves our world because when you pull the cord and it flies off horizontally the gyroscopic effect tracks it straight and level and gives you a big grin. Smiling people are happy and happy people make the world a better place. It takes advantage of the accuracy with which a 3D printer creates parts to produce a very precise aerodynamic and balanced flying toy that only works well due to the precision of a 3D printer. I'm designing different Prop Rockets for it say tuned :-) bigger faster further!

Updated to identify the aspects for the new museum challenge