This is the Chaos Knoten, like it is at de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaos_Computer_Club

The files are made with SophieSew for a combined sewing and embroidery machine.

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

This is a case for the new keyboard-less kindle. It uses the plywood hinge technique, found here on thingiverse. This design was laser cut. A design was etched onto the front of the case, also using the laser cutter.

Point Cloud meshed as a solid STL.

I've been working on turning pointcloud data into usable, printable models and the Hackspace @ RFA cloud Thing proved to be good practice. The scan has a fairly high point density, and I've found my laptop isn't quite up to the task of working on such models... perhaps it is time for an upgrade!

Parametric disc for repurposing plastic venetian blind slats from trash in a small water wheel, Banki-Michell style turbine, and eventually in an electricity generator.

First version in SketchUp more than one year ago, I publish it now, converted to OpenScad so you can describe your own slats, change the blades orientation, etc.
I'd love to see those disc cut out / milled of unused CDs or DVDs because trash cans are full of them (I don't know if it's possible to lasercut CDs on the non reflective side).

Short animation demonstrating some parameters variation :
vimeo.com/29516070

Reference :
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-flow_turbine
autonopedia.org/renewable_energy/Water/Index_Water_Power.htm

Rain and Dirt protection for electronic and wirings on a BIRA transport Bicycle with motor.

Biertasche - a solid bag for beer and other things..

There's been a lot of argument about weapons on Thingiverse lately. Most of it has been folks talking past each other. Can't we all just get along?

So here's a simple flower that will fit in the barrel of your AK-5000 or whatever. Print one out and give it to your local gun collector, national guardsman, armed gangster, or high seas pirate. After all, everyone needs a flower once in a while.

(The flower is from Renosis' super-fun push-puppet.)

Print at YOUR OWN RISK, Neither the creator of this object nor thingiverse.com is responsible for anything that happens because you printed this object!

This is a near fully printable 5.56mm X 45mm or .233 REM AR-15 magazine. It is current only a 5 round magazine. I left my printed spring design out on purpose for saftey reasons. However, with a little printing experimention and some range time it can be made easily.

What is included is the magazine body, anti-tilt follower, and floorplate.

I have used this magazine, no jams or feed problems..... YET. It works, but be reminded it is only a printed ABS magazine. If you end up using a printed ABS mag spring be prepared for stress relaxation of the polymer over time, especailly if it is kept loaded over a long period of time.


DESIGN ERRATA------------------------------------------------------

09/20/2011 1:37pm MDT

The mag catch recess on the mag body(I don't know the official term) needs to move down from the feed lips approximately .010"-.015". My friends AR-15 sometimes would not feed the next round after firing. I believe that will address his problem. This will move the whole body up into the mag well approximate that far. Hopefully, that won't cause any issues with the bolt. I will post the fix sometime late tonight or early tomorrow. I apologize.

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This OpenSCAD script provides modules for both Spur and Bevel Gears. It has some major enhancements over my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3534. It uses some of the spur gear nomenclature code from TheOtherRob github.com/TheOtherRob/MCAD with my own code for generating the involute teeth. The bevel gear is also my own work. Thanks also to elmom for some enhancements to my original gear script thingiverse.com/thing:3547.

Enhancements include the Bevel gear module, backlash settings, parameterised number of facets for the involute curve and whole of tooth generation to avoid some of the issues the original script had when mirroring a half tooth.

The STLs provided are not intended for direct use, but instead show examples of what can be done with the parametric script.

Parametric Involute Spur Gears take the following parameters:
number_of_teeth
circular_pitch or diametral_pitch: controls the size of the teeth (and hence the size of the gear).
pressure_angle: controls the shape of the teeth.
clearance: The gap between the root between teeth and the teeth point on a meshing gear.
gear_thickness: the thickness of the gear plate.
rim_thickness: the thickness of the gear at the rim (including the teeth).
rim_width: radial distance from the root of the teeth to the inside of the rim.
hub_thickness: the thickness of the section around the bore.
hub_diameter
bore_diameter: size of the hole in the middle
circles: the number of circular holes to cut in the gear plate.
backlash: the space between this the back of this gears teeth and the front of its meshing gear\'s teeth when the gear is correctly spaced from it.
twist: for making helical gears.
involute_facets: the number of facets in one side of the involute tooth shape. If this is omitted it will be 1/4 of $fn. If $fn is not set, it will be 5.

Parametric Involute Profile Bevel (Conical) Gears take the following parameters:
number_of_teeth
cone_distance: The distance from the pitch apex to the outside pitch diameter.
face_width: The length of the teeth.
outside_circular_pitch: The circular pitch at the outside pitch diameter.
pressure_angle: Defines the shape of the teeth.
clearance: Gap between the tip of the teeth on one gear and the root of the teeth on another meshing gear.
bore_diameter: The size of the hole in the middle.
gear_thickness: The thickness of the gear for bevel_gear_back_cone finish (see below).
backlash: Makes the tooth width smaller to make a gap between teeth of correctly spaced gears to allow for manufacturing tolerances.
involute_facets: As for spur gears.
finish: Specify either bevel_gear_flat(0) or bevel_gear_back_cone(1). If you don't specify this parameter you will get a flat gear for pitch angles less than 45 degrees and a back cone gear for pitch angles greater than 45 degrees. The example shows both with the small gear being the flat one.

Update: v5.0 Implements backlash for bevel gears (This was not working in v4.0).

A fix for the Stackable box to correct one of the edge connector lengths.

This has been fixed in the original ( thanks Martijn ).

Please Refer to original -> thingiverse.com/thing:3158

This is a design for a /really/ inexpensive linear axis mechanism for an open source selective laser sintering 3D printer that I've been designing (but it should be generally useable for anything that requires a one or two axis system). This is a follow up to the selective laser sintering alpha one dual Z tables that I recently posted ( thingiverse.com/thing:3390 ).

The innovations in this system are its extremely minimal vitamin count -- only a handful of bolts, washers, and nuts are required. It also uses several long pieces of kapton tape as a linear slide bushing, to dramatically reduce friction and drag (though regular old scotch tape may work just as well ;) ).

Here are some miscellaneous toolholders that can be scaled to fit practically any tool.

I was in the market for something like this myself, and was looking around searching for toolholders. The problem however is that there ar alot more different sized tools than there are toolholders that match, so then you end up with something that just looks awful and doesnt fit 100% to anything.

So regarding this project the goal was to make many different shaped toolholders that could easily be customized to fit any tool.

And again a big thanks to the makerbot crew for the plastic that made this:)


(Just an FYI - Everyone of my toolholders are printed on my full size makerbottable makerbot thingiverse.com/thing:3285)

PCB heated bed. I'm working on this idea for nearly two months, inspired by neufeld.newton.ks.us/electronics/?p=864 .

UPDATE
------
tested at 110W and its working flawlesly, gives 108°C in few mins
Now I'm working on great mounting solution

This is V4
--------

- 22x20cm hated area
- you can select what resistance you want 1.3ohms (110W at 12V) or 21ohms
- you dont need any steel or aluminium on top, just plane kapton tape

(I'm testing it at 21ohms setup with 55V PSU which gives me 144W and about 110-120°C, will test with 12V soon and I'll give a report)

This is an alternative extruder hot-end design for the makerbot, though it may work for other 3d printers as well.

The big advantage is that it does not require an insulator (usually PTFE or PEEK), which causes problems for some (or perhaps many). Instead, a stack of washers and nuts is used as a heatsink to reduce the temperature.

It worked really, really well for me, no more stalled extruders, stuck filaments, half-way prints. It heats up rapidly less than 1 minute from 25 to 220 degC), and I haven't had any problems with it (yet..).
I've only printed ABS so far, so I have no idea if it will work with other materials.

My original version used an aluminum heatsink (bottom image), but I thought that might be a bit hard for others to duplicate, so I built this one. Works just as well, just looks a little less fancy.

You'll need a small fan, stainless steel M6 bolt as well as a stack of M6 nuts and 25mm M6 fender washers in addition to asome components from a standard makerbot extruder.

This is the design for a /really/ inexpensive dual z-axis table mechanism for an open source selective laser sintering 3D printer that I've been designing. This is a follow up to the selective laser sintering powder test rig that I recently posted ( thingiverse.com/thing:3389 ).

Like a spice rack, really, but in the shape of the periodic table so you can use it to store and display your chemical elements collection.

I wrote a script to generate lasercut boxes. The script reads a config file with the box dimensions and generates a DXF file and an OpenSCAD model. We use the script for all types of cases here at metalab. The example file attached is the case of our electronic door lock system.

The script can be found here:
svn.clifford.at/handicraft/2009/boxgen/

You might need to install SPL (the scripting language I've used for the script) before you can use the script:
clifford.at/spl/

Use this to guide your cables with.

An eight-legged big spider robot.

The design goal was to create a legged robot that is large enough to walk regular stairs and strong enough to lift simple loads. It also had to be simple enough to use regular RC-srevos and could be cut with my minimal CNC machine.

youtube.com/watch?v=gNXuzhop-u8

youtube.com/watch?v=mSzAuPa47WA

The build process is documented here:

roboternetz.de/phpBB2/zeigebeitrag.php?t=39810&highlight=

Inspired by some laser cut projects on Thingverse I made this crossbow for my son. It uses a rubber band and has the gun lock built into the handle. It will shoot a sucker dart across the kitchen and stick it to the microwave with a satisfying smack.

Lasercut project for a small lens-hood for the Sanyo HD1 and HD2. It is pressure fit on the lens.

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.