This is a crude but working violin made in an 8-bit, pixelated style. Here's some videos of the thing in action: moonmilk.com/2011/04/17/8-bit-violin-played-by-real-fiddlers/

(It was on Make:Live on March 9th, 2011: makezine.com/live/)

It's laser-cut from 1/8" plywood (front and back faces), 3/16" plywood (bridge), and 1/4" solid wood (everything else). It's a messy design, and not fully refined, because I really didn't know what I was doing when I made it.

License notes: all rights are reserved, but I grant you all permissions under the CC-BY-SA license creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ if you promise that if you make any substantial changes or improvements to this design that result in a working instrument, you'll publish your version of the design to Thingiverse and tell me about it. And in general, if you make and/or perform with an instrument based on this design, I'd like to hear about it.

The document "8bit violin scratchpad" contains bitmap images I found on the net, and I don't claim any copyright on those.

Snowflake Tree Ornament for your Xmass tree and/or gifts.
Source is Rhino 3D format (version 3.0).

Initially I haven't printed this out due to storm tossing the boat around that night. But hearing that we're likely to have a supply of PLA soon in the US I felt inspired.

I took the glasses designed by daewootech to be cut using a laser and created a 3d model which can be printed using a RepRap machine or a Makerbot. Notice this is the first version and as you will see there are a few things which should be improved: the size should be a bit bigger than it is (you may scale it and give feedback on that) and the geometry should be rounded a bit, I made the model by hand extruding parts from a cube and wanted to keep the model with a low polygon cound, but I think I went too far on that.

Final update: I have uploaded the source scad and DXF files, and an archive with all the STLs, including the improved ones by nicholasclewis (thank you!). I lost some of the source files for the first models by accident, and the bunny idler was not made in OpenSCAD, and I don't have the source for models made by others, but most of them are there. Have fun building, and don't forget the contest!

Starting today, December 2nd, I will upload a new STL each day. Print one per day and you'll have a Prusa Mendel (with extruder) on the 24th. The prints that take longer are on the weekends, with shorter ones during the week. Some of the parts are special holiday-themed. I'll try to arrange them so you can build as much as possible with the ones you already have. All of these will fit on a normal Makerbot build platform. For more information on the Prusa Mendel, see reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

For the source code for the models, see github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel

Superlative update! Ruben (sikko on IRC) of ikmaak.nl is organizing a contest for everyone who is printing this. The best resulting printer gets a free set of electronics, and the runner-up gets free filament. So if you are printing this, check ikmaak.nl/eenblog/2010/12/06/the-holiday-mendel-build-contest/ for the contest details.

The STL for 02. December is now available.
It's a Wade extruder idler by nophead, thingiverse.com/thing:3462

The STL for 03. December is now available.
It's three of the universal rod clamps that you need for the Y and Z axes.
The snowflakes are from thingiverse.com/thing:1321
You can hang them from your frame top bars if you like.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 04. December is now available.
If you can have a vertex with a foot...
then why not have a vertex...with a boot!
This part is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot in the Prusa Mendel

The STL for 05. December is now available.
The irregularly shaped hole on the y motor bracket just got more regular.
This is equivalent to the y-motor-bracket

The STL for 06. December is now available.
Courtesy of GregFrost, we have a decorated vertex that proudly proclaims the name of the remix's designer. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 07. December is now available.
For all of you who were waiting for the other shoe to drop - here it is.
Should print better than the one before - less of the boot is hanging in the air.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

The STL for 08. December is now available.
This is a tree-star vertex. While the front of your bot has boots, why not have something nice for the back too?
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

Once you've printed this part you are ready to assemble one of the frame triangles. Take this part and the one from the day before it, and the crown vertex, and follow the instructions on the wiki page linked above.

The STL for 09. December is now available.
We've already got bar-clamps, why not star-clamps?
Sadly the thumbnail does not show the most interesting bit.
This is the Prusa Mendel bar-clamp part.

The STL for 10. December is now available.
Another lovely vertex by GregFrost. Print as it is, and don't worry about the missing bits on the first layer - they're there on purpose and spell out the model name.
This is equivalent to the frame-vertex.

The STL for 11. December is now available.
Another tree-star vertex.
This is equivalent to frame-vertex-foot.

You can now build the entire frame! Have fun!

The STL for 12. December is now available.
It's a gift and motor holder. It holds your z motor and a bunch of gifts - and anything else you put on it. Using clothbot's parametric LEGO buttons at thingiverse.com/thing:1005 makes this part LEGO-compatible.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 13. December is now available.
Since the LEGO bits from yesterday turned out so popular, here's more of that.
Four belt clamps, two rod clamps, two bar clamps. Enjoy!
(There was an error in this file. If you downloaded it before this message appeared, please download it again. If you already printed it, you will need to reprint it. Sorry! My mistake!)

The STL for 14. December is now available.
These are the prusa bushings. They work best if printed in PLA, so if you have access to PLA, use that for this part.
These are the bushings for all three axes.

The STL for 15. December is now available.
These are pulleys for the X and Y axes. Use the shooting star pulley on the X axis, and the other on the Y.

You can now build the entire Y axis.

The STL for 16. December is now available.
This is a quiet little street behind a purring Z axis motor.
This is equivalent to z-motor-holder.

The STL for 17. December is now available.
Two little trees to hold your leadscrews in line.
This is equivalent to coupling.

The STL for 18. December is now available.
tbuser's lovely scanned gnome thingiverse.com/thing:4693 finds its way back to the real world, guarding your x axis motor.
This is equivalent to x-end-motor.

The STL for 19. December is now available.
I was so impressed when the Stanford bunny appeared on thingiverse as thingiverse.com/thing:3731 and immediately printed 4.
This one will sit on your idler and watch your prints for you.
This is equivalent to x-end-idler.

Now you have all the parts you need to build the X axis and attach it to the Z axis.

The STL for 20. December is now available.
It's an x-carriage...with a beard. More on this theme later.

You can now attach the bushings and belt for the X axis.

The STL for 21. December is now available.
This is the small gear for a Wade's extruder - with a candy cane on top.

The STL for 22. December is now available.
This is the body of Wade's extruder, only with a hat!
(could you, would you, with a hat?)

The STL for 23. December is now available.
This is the large gear for the the Wade's extruder. It's meant to look pretty cool with the other extruder parts and the bearded carriage.
Moustache profile from thingiverse.com/thing:4626

You can now assemble the entire extruder.

The STL for 24. December is now available.
These are the endstop holder sleighs.
Racing through the bed.
On a one-stop open axis.
Who will reach it first...
At G28.

You can now assemble the entire printer. Tomorrow, you get OpenSCAD source and a zip of all the models.

A mountable box for the techzone USB-TTL board.

The rest of the techzone boards come with mounting holes, but the USB-TTL board doesn't. It is also the most likely board to be yanked when someone accidentally trips on or tugs the USB cable. This box allows you to mount the board to your machine with a bit more mechanical soundness.

Mounting mask for 2x16char lcd

Here are some miscellaneous toolholders that can be scaled to fit practically any tool.

I was in the market for something like this myself, and was looking around searching for toolholders. The problem however is that there ar alot more different sized tools than there are toolholders that match, so then you end up with something that just looks awful and doesnt fit 100% to anything.

So regarding this project the goal was to make many different shaped toolholders that could easily be customized to fit any tool.

And again a big thanks to the makerbot crew for the plastic that made this:)


(Just an FYI - Everyone of my toolholders are printed on my full size makerbottable makerbot thingiverse.com/thing:3285)

Nick Starno, MakerBot engineer and outdoor enthusiast asked if public USGS mapping data could be modeled. I knew that Chris K. Palmer would know how, and within an hour an .stl file arrived in my inbox. Palmer is a resourceful guy!

So I printed one on my MakerBot in clear ABS.

Whether you need to tie down tarps on the trailer, car, camp or elsewhere, nothing grips like these printed tarp clips.

This is a complete set of printable corners for the RapMan 3.x printer from Bits From Bytes.

They may be used as stronger replacements for the (very fragile) standard acrylic corners, and are designed to be installed without having to take the whole machine apart. Most corners now require only 3 easily-accessible bolts (down from 8), and importantly, no more fiddly grub screws :)

Apart from making the whole machine stronger, the Z motor corner now includes a mechanism to easily and accurately adjust the tension on the Z belt. This is now a one-handed operation, not three-handed!

The Y motor corner requires 2 files (top_backleft.stl, ymotor_clip.stl) whilst the Z motor corner requires 4 files (bottom_frontright_backleft.stl, zmotor_*.stl) All other corners are each 1 file only; even the top corners, as the bearing holders are now all integrated.

I have endurance-tested these parts with a 24-hour non-stop print and everything is still running smoothly. If I find any weaknesses, I will update the STLs.

NB: Some of the green STL auto-renders displayed left and below are mirrored; they are however correct once you download them (tested in both BFB Axon and MiniMagics)

A simulated tree. This is more in the fun with quasi-fractals genre. This prints more nicely than my original fractal tree thing:3373. No spaghetti is produced since each layer is a continuous path.

The "branches" and "leaves" are each 1.5 mm wide so they should print two strings of plastic thick.

See thing:4787 for .stl for roots similar to Zomboe's roots.

Depreciated: This item has been replaced by version 2, a 100% printable spool holder, located at thingiverse.com/thing:8317 Please refer to that file, which is a much better design.

I liked BrokenToaster's idea of a bearing-driven filament spool holder, but that version was too big to fit on a Makerbot print bed. I separated the arms from the hub, making a tight-fitting dovetail joint to connect the pieces without any hardware. It now fits on a Makerbot print bed!!!


EDIT: At Wajazn's suggestion, I added a version that integrates a printable bearing from thingiverse.com/thing:4312 . Disclaimer, I have NOT tried to print it, but it should work.

UPDATE: (1/22/2011) I added a solid version of the integrated bearing hub that has no spokes to avoid the problem people were having with one of the hollows printing solid. I just skeined it in 0035 and it looks good.

A small box for the horizontal IR-Sensor from the paparazzi project: paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Main_Page

It is used to determine the orientation of a model aircraft trought measurement of the horizon.

See paparazzi.enac.fr/wiki/Infrared_Double_Small_Sensor_Board for more details on the sensor itself.

This box is designed to protect the table beneath your PCB from scratches, while giving you full access to the PCB top layer.

This is a retractable Z-Probe.
With a Z-Probe your Makerbot is able to "auto home" not only X & Y but also the Z axis. This is done by mounting the endstop on your Makerbot in a way it senses the build platform directly (and nearby the real nozzle).
In order to get out of the way during printing, the sense-pin is retractable.

Although this is a working thing, especially the software changes are still beta. Both, firmware and ReplicatorG/host software, need to be updated. The extended versions are available as source code on GitHub.

For more information (and a sample video), see
pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/09/14/finding-home/

An Arduino Shield with a Single 16-Channel CMOS multiplexer (DG406DJ) and custom output pin.
Single-sided pcb milled with Geil-o-mat using metaboard.sh script to convert .brd files to .ngc ready for CNC milling.

Used for Arduino Power Monitoring Impulses Purposes, 128inputs multiplexed to 8inputs over Arduino - ATMEGA328.
Actually running and monitoring ~100 active server racks with XML output on arduino ethernet shield

This is a sort of quickstart manual-in-a-script series that will show you how to generate gcode from math using Python and provide a "foot in the door" for more complex parametric prints.

para_01.py:
The hello world of 3D parametric printing, this prints a prism shape by doing nothing more than moving the print head to three points and then raising it one layer.

para_02.py:
Adding trig functions, this script moves from straight lines to circles to print a cylinder.

para_03.py:
In the most advanced example in this pack, the GCode object is given a "rotate" method so that the cross-section of the model can be rotated one step at a time.

I'll make another one of these with more advanced lessons later-- there are a LOT more things that can be done with this than I've shown here!

Designed for the concept of making basic standard of living goods available to all. This thingi is a 100% Makerbotable Water Strainer designed for use with food produce.
Working within the build constraints of the makerbot this DIY stainer is aimed to house the maximum quantity of food product (rice, pasta, vegetables) while maintaining a nice water flow.

This design has a rim surrounding the entire edge of the strainer for easy hold and also includes a secondary clip on handle for use with heated produce.

ENJOY CLEAN EATING!

My first 3D drawing. I needed a case to mount my arduino to various projects. I found a model of the board in the 3D warehouse on Sketchup. Future mods will be extension housings for add on shields and screw terminals. Now i gotta figure out a way to print it.Added images with improvements. thicker sides, pegs that use the holes in the board, and hold down tabs.

I needed to put an inline switch in a mains cable. I had the switch, but no housing for it. This is such a housing.

This accommodates an 8mm diameter cable, and a switch requiring a rectangular hole that is 19mm x 13mm (which seems to be a standard size).

This is the calibration prints that I always use when I deicde to try out the new version of skeinforge. I can't find how to make a derivative, so these will be derivative as soon as someone shows me the obvious bright red button I missed.

The thin walled box is Dmatsumoto's thingiverse.com/thing:1637. it is unaltered, because it's just perfect.

The two other blocks are alterations of Bre Pettis's 40mm cube thingiverse.com/thing:477.

I learned this technique from several places, but I didn't understand it till I read Makerblock's wonderful blog post at makerblock.com/2010/02/makerbot-skeinforge-tuning-and-calibration/, check it out, he makes since (unlike me).

I can usually dial my skeinforge in almost perfectly just using these 3 items.

eZ430-Chronos comes with 2 usb devices. One is TI eZ430U simulator that is basically ICSP + debugger and is used to program & debug the mcu in chronos and the other device is BlueRobin transceiver. Both are very small and look fragile and they both come "naked" hence I decided to box them. This is the case for the BlueRobin transceiver.

This is a makerbot-sized interlocking 2V/L2 icosahedron dome (reference: simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes ). Might be useful if you're planning a moon colony or are building a really small radar set. Or print it in PLA and you have the shade for a nifty lamp. In any case, here it is.

Notes:
1) You'll need 30 of the A-A-B panels, 10 of the B-B-B panels, and 10 of the B-H panels.
2) This should be about 30cm in diameter and about 20cm high when assembled.
3) The panels should be error-proof, i.e. they should interlock only one way.

UPDATE:
I have added DXFs for anyone who wants to use a lasercutter.

This is a drag chain for the MakerBot extruder cable (or any other cable/wires).

It keeps your extruder cable out of the Z-stage belt and let your MakerBot look professional (kind of...)

The objects need very detailed printing in order to work. You definitely want a good tuned MakerBot and Skeinforge settings to print this (don't say I didn't warn you!).

The ZIP file contains GCode files for all objects, including 6 or 8 chain links on one raft. It might be the best to skeinforge the gcode with your own, tuned settings. The included GCode files worked for me (resp. my MakerBot), but (again): these are some really hairy objects to print.

Want to upgrade your print-speed?

This is an extruder that allows you to mount a beefy, high-torque, NEMA23 stepper motor. You can directly attach it to the Bowden cable. With the Bowden extruder (see my other designs under the Thingiverse tag: bowden), the plastic throughput is your print speed bottleneck. Or should I say, was your bottleneck: With a NEMA23 motor I've been able to extrude more than 15 mm^3 of molten ABS per second. That's about a (fully solid) mendel in 22 hours! So now XY-movements are the bottleneck again. For this, I think I need to further reduce the weight of the carriage (lighter rods, etc.).

Usage:
You can simply press the Bowden cable with an M6 nut into the T-slot (to attach the extruder drive mechanism to the extruder head via a Bowden cable).
Note: An M5 nut will also work (for smaller PTFE bowden cables), it will be able to slide slightly, but its movement is constrained by the filament.

This is an alternative toolhead to allow milling with a RepMan 3d printer.
Feel free to adapt it to other printers like Mendel, Darwin and Makerbot.
It should work fine for milling 3d-objects (Skeinforge) and PCBs (visolate) or for exact drilling (drill holder attachment) and cutting (90° attachment and cutting-disc).

You need a Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment (Model 225) and a Dremel as well as an M5x95mm(or longer) screw or threaded rod for this.

Documentation: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_PCBs
Forum-Thread: bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/milling-toolhead-o-thingiverse
(I used bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/3d-model-toolhead-attachment-design-alternative-heads )

Update: I made a Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOt_yXAkMrs) of my first tests of PCB milling using this toolhead. It performed well given that I fitted a way too large milling-bit and did not tighten/block the springs holding the print-surface.
Update: Experimental Skeinforge settings for milling are documented here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_in_3D
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=7rdkIjtuiYA

Challenge:
(Details: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:MarcusWolschon/Challenges )
Get 10 small mendel parts or 2 larger ones or your design printed for
adapting this RepMan Dremel milling-toolhead to fit the Mendel.

See:
objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_X-axis
Note that you will probably have to design a new x-carriage-lower_1off or even also a x-carriage-upper_1off due to the poor design of the Mendel x-carriage regarding mounting alternative tools that are wider then 22mm.
5 additional small or 1 large parts if you can do it so extruder and mill can be switched with 4 or less easily accessible screws.

secures a magnet to a standard-sized bicycle wheel spoke for detecting speed with a hall effect sensor. the form can be easily modified to accept a range of magnet sizes, but is provided to accept a 3/16" x 1/8" disc magnet (locally available in the US at Harbor Freight tools). we welcome derivatives designed to accept magnetic media of different sizes, please post them here on thingiverse to share.

design process: bit.ly/6mtnVE
more info: velosynth.com

Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here.

This is the badge the Hack a Day team wore around CES and gave away to a few people. You can see the posts here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/08/ces-update-makerbot-gets-a-badge/
and here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/09/ces-update-ces-badges/

Here is the how-to post on how the badge was created in OpenSCAD:
hackaday.com/2010/01/11/how-to-make-a-printable-ces-badge/

Now everyone can show that they read hackaday.com with this custom-designed badge.
It takes a little over an hour to print and the wrenches are pretty much guaranteed to pull up and/or warp the build surface.

I made this as a little present for someone.

I still had a few pieces of the lasercut scrap wood from my internship at Makerbot Industries over the summer and I liked the black/wood aesthetic of my wall clock thingiverse.com/thing:834 so I decided to make a box with the same stuff.