I wanted a proper board to mount the MAX6675 sensor discussed here: reprap.org/wiki/Hacks_to_the_RepRap_Extruder_Controller_v2.2

Datasheet is here: datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX6675.pdf

I haven't attempted to use it yet, but it etched cleanly and I had no trouble getting the chip to seat on the pads. There are pads to mount a .1uF capacitor as well, but damn those things are tiny and exactly the same dingy-beige as my carpet.

I'm better with CAD than I am with Eagle, so I welcome a proper Eagle version if anyone wants to put in the time.

Meanwhile, I'll be under my desk with a flashlight and a magnet hunting for capacitors.
Damnitallsomuch.

Derivative of thing 7064, Thermocouple sensor, single sided carrier board by moleofproduction ( thingiverse.com/thing:7064 ). The Mole of Production asked for a "proper Eagle version if anyone wants to put in the time," so here is one version.

These are LM8UU bearing holders for the Prusa Y axis. They are based off of Greg Frosts bearing holders from his work with the LM8UU Prusa X-carriage. I am working on them for a .scad file, but until then you will have to live with my SketchUp model.

I removed the files after seeing new user agreements. I don't like the feel that Thingiverse owns the design. Files are here reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel

This thing is a Derivative of instructables.com/id/Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top-3-Axis-CNC-Milling-Machine/

I really wanted a printable cnc machine, there was an incomplete one around but was removed.

So I used a frame of my old and poorly made cnc machine i had, and desgined this thing wich so far shows promising results.

There are few insprations from prusa, that is the bushing and the anti backlash nut.

the new design allows a much bigger build area, the motors got an upgrade so will the drivers.

as for the z axis im using a big stepper (look like a nema23 but im not sure exacly what is it got it from a printer) with a good lead screw i had around.

I add arcol.hu hotend support for Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder.
This is my first ever try with openscad.
So the code maybe not the most optimal.
Here it is the version 2 of extruder block with arcol hot-end support. I have widened the base in the middle, to not allow any movement for the arcol hot-end.
Version 2 is untested! As I did not have the time to print it yet.

This is a derivative of Rhys' Drive Gear Holder.

I have beefed it up slightly, made stronger support at the top for the Pinch-bolts.

Most importantly I have made it easier to load filament without taking the idler assy. off.

This is an update to my Accessible Wade's Extruder.

The idler is now hinged using an M3 screw.
I have also added support for the central part of the 608 idler so that there is no need to use washers to space the bearing away from the plastic.

I have been using this design for a while now and love it.

Changing filament is a simple as compressing the spring then whipping out the old filament and poking the new one in.

UPDATE: 6 Aug 2011 - Add arcol (cory75 thing:10532) and wildseyed hotend mount options. Im not overly happy with the asymmetry of the arcol option.

This is an attempt to combine various aspects of Adrian's and Wade's extruder drivers. Specifically, It keeps Adrian's extruder clamping system, uses a prime number of teeth for good wear characteristics but uses Wade's hobbed bolt to do the driving.

As the name suggests, the design uses Herringbone gears. This ensures that backlash is substantially reduced, which should result in the extruder requiring slightly less reverse, but more importantly run quieter. The design of the drive gear is somewhat experimental. As with other gears, this uses a grub screw to secure the gear to the motor shaft. However, on this design the hole goes through the root of one of the teeth. This takes up less space, and also lets you adjust the position of the gear without taking the motor off. However, it is quite intricate. Many people have managed it, but your printer needs to be running well to do it.

I don't have the equipment to do precision drilling for the lm8uu holders, and adding a belt tensioning system to the wooden carriage eats up Z printable space. So my solution is to design my own Y carriage with build in belt tensioning.

Please check out V2 of this here thingiverse.com/thing:12979

This is another cooling design, inspired by (but not directly based on) thing 5756.

I wanted to use Iwo's design, but I just upgraded to a MakerGear stepper plastruder on my Thing-o-Matic, and there wasn't enough clearance around the extruder nozzle to mount any fan ducts on the top side of the Z-stage. So, this design is a circular cooling nozzle that mounts around the extruder nozzle, just under the Z-stage.

It is fed by two 1/4" PVC hoses, attached to a fan mount that sits on top of the Z-stage, near the rear of the bot. This mount holds a 40mm fan salvaged from an old graphics card.

The overall airflow is very subtle- it's detectable with your hand, but just barely. But it makes a huge difference in print quality for small parts. In the attached image of two single-wall calibration boxes, both boxes were printed consecutively using the same g-code. The only difference is that one box had the cooling fan intake blocked.

This design is in parametric OpenSCAD, so it should be fairly easy to adapt to other nozzle types or fan sizes.

Note: This adds some extra hardware to the underside of your Z-stage. Make sure there will be clearance with anything you have sticking up from your build platform. I had to remove the nozzle wiper from my ABP. (The wiper wasn't working very well with my MakerGear nozzle anyway, so no big loss...)

I needed an easy way to mount my Gen7 electronics on my Prusa printer build. I didn't want to use standoffs and bolts because I would like to be able to remove and replace the electronics easily. So I did up some clips on sketchup and here is what I came up with. It clicks in solidly and there seems to be no tendency to slide side to side even though I didn't use any clips on the sides.

Linear Bearing designed for 608 (skate) bearings and M8 or 5/16" bolts. (File is in Inventor 2011 format, as well as STL). Designed for a 1/2" rod. Two of the six bearing holes are slightly oval to allow for adjustment via the set screws.

Based on Dave Kush's Design (http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/hblb/hblb.html)

Update #1 (06-OCT-2010):
- Fixed scaling issue in STL file.


Update #2 (06-OCT-2010):
- Added mounting holes.
- Added additional STL file without mounting holes.


Update #3 (06-OCT-2010):
- Modified one set of bearing holes to be slighting oval.
- Added set screws to allow for bearing adjustment.

I added code for mountings for a Parcan hot end with its peek block drilled with 30mm spaced M4 holes.
I have also added a parameter to add a filament guide which I know greg is not keen on adding to his design.

This is the first release of the Boot-strappable Open Laser Cutter project that I've been working on for the past few months. The goal of the project is to construct an open design laser cutter with a large cut area (about 1 meter square), for about 5%-10% of the cost of a commercial system. The design draws heavily from other open laser cutter projects out there (such as the Buildlog 2X Laser Cutter) in using inexpensive aluminum extrusion and optics for most of the structural frame, while here most of the custom parts are 3D printed from ABS.

The printed parts represent about 10 hours of total printing time on a Makerbot or Reprap, and have been designed with the hope that they would be of general utility to anyone printing out a large CNC system -- not just a laser cutter. These include parts such as NEMA17 motor holders that mount onto t-slot, idler brackets, pillow block bushing mounts for motors, idlers, and shafts, and so on.

Takes 3 LM8UU bearings.

Comes with an integrated belt tensioning system (see red carriage).

Has integrated slots for cable-ties to get a really firm grip on those bearings.

Fan mount is an option in the scad file if you don't want it.

Works great with one of my extuders mounted at an angle to maximise x travel.

My Reprap Prusa is still in it's early life stages. Amongst some of the problems I have had to solve one is the X end motor parts which are a little flimsy.

One problem that this created for me is that tightening the X carriage belt is difficult. The reason is that there is a fair amount of flex in the plastic part. I have read others who feel that the part has been stripped down a little too much and now is flimsy. Obviously you could create a new part with some more plastic in there to make it sturdier.

However this means getting your printer up and running just so that you can strip it down to add the improved part. I was looking for another way to strengthen the part. In my parts cupboard I had some aluminium angle bracket which I shaped and bonded into place.

I have created an SCAD file with the parts in it, though obviously this is to give a model to work from not to print from.

With this alteration the X motor end becomes rock solid and tensioning the X carriage belt becomes a lot easier. I can't comment on if it improves the print quality noticeably as I won't have before and after to compare but I would imagine it would help if you are having backlash problems on the X axis.

Just tall enough to see if 100% infill works.

I made this when I couldn't find a suitable LM8UU replacement for these bushings on the Y-plate: thingiverse.com/thing:8282

So I took GregFrost's LM8UU holder and added tabs with screw cutouts so that I could mount it using the current holes. However, I made it parametric so that users could adjust it for whatever width / size screw required.

There are also slots for zip-ties so they don't interfere with mounting.

I think we can all agree, life would become much more interesting if I launched a turtle shell at you every once and a while.

But it’s no fun if I’m the only one with a shell to launch. Therefore…

Turtle Shells for Everybody!!!

All you have to do is print it out and assemble!

The Turtle Shell Racer is as fully 3d printable as I can make it using my Makerbot Cupcake CNC and its MK5 Extruder. The pdf file contains full assembly instructions and a parts list. This is a very ambitious project; expect to spend some time on it.

Video of the Shells in action at CCCKC:
youtube.com/watch?v=YAd3e_UTW4c
youtube.com/watch?v=wA-wY-Q_onU

UPDATE Sept 26th

I have uploaded the modifications I made to the shells for the NYC Maker Faire.

Wheely Bar.stl - This replaces the rear axle brackets.stl with a wheely bar, which allows awesome wheelys!

New stearing Link.stl - This new link replaces the old steering linkage.stl. It is designed to capture one of the servo horns and allow a better connection between the servo and the steering.

Inspired by the Z rod constraints on the Makergear Prusa.

You can print 2 or 4 of these and use them to eliminate all Z wobble on your Prusa.

I've included some before-and-after photos from cubes but the REAL visual proof will be when I reprint the OH shot glass.


BEFORE! thingiverse.com/image:63205
AFTER! thingiverse.com/image:63204
SAME GCODE!

Coupling to connect M8 threaded rod leadscrew to 5mm stepper motor shaft.

(It seems Thingiverse lost the list of materials)
List of materials:
- 1-2cm of flexible tubing e.g. 4x6 or 4x7mm
- M8 coupling nut
- M8 nut for contra

Want a better way to level your print bed and get just the right nozzle height? Can you never seem to get the z endstop to stay in one place? Tired of changing start.gcode? Then this thing's for you! With kwixson's adjustable z endstop for prusa mendel, adjusting your nozzle height is as simple as turning a hex key.

This works with my x-end motor mount. Mileage may vary. Fully parametric. Season to taste. STL sized for metric M3 screws and nuts.

Couples a 5mm motor shaft to an 8mm threaded rod, ensuring they are coaxial, but allowing some angular movement if the rod is not straight. See hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/06/yet-another-prusa-z-coupling.html.