Created for QuadCopter build class at HackerSpace Charlotte


Controller - AeroQuad Mini
Receiver - Hobby King TR6A v2
Motor - hexTronik 20gram Brushless Outrunner 2300kv
ESC - Turnigy PLUSH 6A
Battery - Sky Lipo 1300mA 2 cell


Version 2 of Chopper_Vertex uploaded
Version 2 of Chopper_Hub uploaded

If you're trying to throw together a Botmobile or similar RC setup on the cheap, you can make your own brushed DC speed controller out of the guts of an old servo. I modified the guts out of a Hobby King TGY-S4505B servo for Thingiverse user Luis to use with his Botmobile and turtle shell racer (seen here).

Amazed by the extra-rigid piece of aluminium and the extremely limited heated build platform 1.0 of my Cupcake, I decided to buy the Thing-o-matic HBP and then adapt it to my printer.

All sorts of strange designs came to my mind, and finally I got what I think was the most simple and effective solution: printing 4 extra corners and use one of the wood platforms used for the X stage of the printer.

What will you get?

- An extra plain build surface
- Forgot about the aluminium sticker
- More uniform temperature distribution
- Improved build size

Of course, this mod is compatible with the amazing XY lowrider by twotimes!

My Dynam C-47/DC-3 needed retractable landing gear, so I'm printing some. I haven't flown it with the new landing gear yet, so this is still a work in progress.

I have tested them and they appear to work. This will require moving the motor speed controls and cutting out some foam.

Keyboard foot for Logitech EX110 wireless keyboard. Altered original scad to add latching pegs so foot does not move.

Battery cover for Logitech EX110 wireless keyboard.
My kids are really hard on keyboards, they recently managed to loose the battery cover for this one, so I designed a new one in scad. The print is ok but orange was possibly not the best colour selection!
The SCAD file is parametrised so might be usable for other battery cover requirements.

So I got into doing Renaissance acting this year and got to thinking, what would it be like if you had a real life dragon? Here is as far as I've gotten so far with that thought, the eventual plan is to make this dragon attonomous, but at the moment he is controlled with duel sliding joysticks that control the height and rotation of his head, how wide his wings are spread and the angle of the wings (I'll add in controls for the tail later). The joysticks will eventually be replaced with IR sensors and an accelerometer, but I'm still working on those baby steps.

The model does use a derivative of the dragon head: thingiverse.com/thing:1466

Any help with the programming would be greatly appreciated.

A few people in our Makerbot users group wanted a set of covers for their bots a while back, so I designed a set of laser cut PETG panels that covered the holes on the original Cupcake. I recently revisited the design after someone else wanted a ToM set so I decided to post the designs.

I solved the problem of closing up the front of the bot by creating a fold down door that secured with a couple magnets and utilized some drawer pulls I had on hand. Once the door and panels were installed on my bot, the entire thing looked kinda like an oven, hence the name. Appropriate for a Cupcake, right?

Rather than just preventing drafts from affecting your builds, these panels can also be used in conjunction with a specialized fume hood I designed (which will be posted soon along with ToM oven files) to manage the ABS fumes produced by a bot.

More pics here:
flickr.com/photos/builttospec/6103855648/in/photostream

This cap protects the camera's fragile lens cover leaves and keeps pocket fuzz out of the lens elements inside the turret.

Just in time for Holiday Season – an ideal Christmas Gift for the university students in your life!

Game play:
...
Player 1: B4
Player 2: Hit! (Glug, glug, glug) ... C7
Player 1: Miss! ... B5
Player 2: Hit – you sank my Destroyer! (Glug, glug, glug) ... D4
...
(Well, I’m sure you get the gist by now.)

These designs were made for a friend who was sent an e-mail of a drinking game which has been doing the rounds lately: motifake.com/image/demotivational-poster/1011/battleshots-fun-games-demotivational-poster-1289595810.jpg

The ship designs were created in Alibre Personal, for a cheap plastic disposable shot glass (28 mm base diameter; 41 mm top diameter; 41 mm high; to be played on a 48 mm x 48 mm grid). The models are parametric, so can be easily edited for different governing dimensions; but sorry, I am not clever enough to do this sort of modelling as parametric models on OpenSCAD. For alternative sized glasses, if you don’t have access to Alibre, you could just scale the STL files, or model something similar yourself using OpenSCAD, or other CAD software of your choice.

The models are hollow shells without a bottom (to save material), and should be able to print OK without internal support, as long as you have “bridging” working OK.

[Edit: On reflection, I think you will probably need external support for the Aircraft Carrier models, because of the overhanging "flight deck".]

Note that the 4-shotglass Battleship (212.3 mm long) and the 5-shotglass Aircraft Carrier (264.5 mm long) are too big to be printed on my Prusa Mendel, but I have included them for anyone who has a bigger print bed (or wants to scale them down for a smaller shotglass). The 4-shotglass Battleship will however fit when printed at 45-degree orientation (159.2 mm x 159.2 mm). The 4-shotglass Small Aircraft Carrier is there because – well, every Navy has to have at least ONE aircraft carrier (to be the flagship!)

A holder for the USB cable used with an Apple A/C - USB adapter, at least for the bulkier style connectors.

For a holder for the slimmer, smaller connector go to thingiverse.com/thing:13718

replica of the awesome prop from baltimorerockopera.org/ Baltimore Rock opera Society (BROS) show Grundlehammer.

The MK7 released and I was like, huh, why get rid of the 3mm filament? I have about 20LBs of the stuff and I want to keep using it. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to do dual extrusion with 3mm filament? The next day, Makerbot put the MK6 pluses on sale. Sometimes fortune smiles...

Here is my take on a Dual MK6 plus extruder.

Here are some salient points:

Nozzle spacing of 20mm (the smaller the spacing, the larger the build space you have left that is covered by both nozzles)
Bearing idler wheels
Fits through the upper opening on the cupcake
No springs needed for tensioning
No screw plunger to have release on you in the middle of a print.

NOTE:
You will need to drill a new metal retainer plate.

Video is up: flickr.com/photos/48982649@N07/6273051824/ You too can hear me sound like a dork.

NEXT STEPS:

Until I get my second EC I can't see what is going on with temperature migration across the heads, there is insulation between them but I'm not sure. The reason I care is because PVA has a lower melt temp than ABS.

A catch for a caravan door or anything else that needs to be held open.

This is a fully functional microphone shock mount for a side-address microphone. (Also called a "spider mount.") It's functionally equivalent to equipment that can cost around $50 to buy retail. This design is meant to be printed on a RepRap style 3D printer.

This design is parametric -- that is, it can be scaled up to larger diameters fairly easily and thanks to the truss structure, it has the excess strength to accomodate that.

(Also, to head off the inevitable comment, the hose clamp does not touch the mount body. There is 3mm clearance, and that's the largest hose clamp that will work for the design shown in the pictures. This was actually made for my Austin Ribbon Mic, and there's plenty of space for that one, as it's a narrower mic using a smaller hose clamp.)

Recently we discoverd a really nice technique that makes wood flexible. This is so cool we want to share it with you!

We designed wooden booklets that use this feature. They’re made from a beautiful birch plywood and are finished with a clear varnish. The hard wooden cover can be opened fully to the back side for comfortable holding. A tiny clamp inside, made from the same material, holds a standard A7 writing block.

The booklets come in a horizontal and vertical version.
Actually they not only look cool, it shows exactly what we think digital production is all about. By using manufacturing techniques like this it is possible to make all product features in a single production step and in one material. This cuts down production effort and logistics and makes for a beautifully simple product. Because a laser cutter is a fairly common tool products like this could be manufactured locally, all over the world. By working from sheet materials the products can also be flat-packed, saving even more resources and costs on shipping.

For us this means we can make everything in-house and we don’t need to produce in big quantities to make it affordable. This is really the power of digital manufacturing and personal fabrication.

snijlab.nl

This plugin does not work with 2.57 use 2.56 , code update coming soon .

Updated version of the gcode script from thingiverse.com/thing:6103

I have taken MR's instruction and converted this to a menu item.

With the plugin installed there is now a File | import | gcode item.

This brings up a file browser. So there is no more messy text editing.

This will continue to be available at

github.com/zignig/blender-gcode-reader

I'm looking into parsing skeinforge comments , and dealing with 5D and stringy bits.

portal gun from the game portal

Made from a sketchup model

Two knob models which go over the pots on my JR 8103 radio control transmitter. They help you know the radial location of the pot/dial on the TX while flying.

I modified zignig's script to make it compatible with latest Blender version (2.59) and to support modern 5D GCODE (that is, the one for stepper extruders with the E parameter and no tool-off commands).

Development at github.com/alexrj/blender-gcode-reader

(The object in pictures was sliced with Slic3r, slic3r.org)

The south pointing chariot is an ancient mechanical compass invented in China around 200 C.E. Texts mention their use up until around 1300 C.E. and they have descriptions of how they were built. But unfortunately there are no examples of ancient ones still in existence. Thankfully many people over the years have interpreted the ancient texts to come up with a variety of designs. Most of these designs use counter rotating differentials connected to each wheel and a common differential in the center with a pointing device to indicate South. How the differentials are oriented and connected to each other varies greatly though. I found this to be one of the most elegant designs and its attributed to a Mr. Nuttall.

This makes a great Demo showing the capabilities of 3D printing and will impress everyone you show. It only has ONE stationary part and 11-14 moving parts depending on configuration.

Version Information
Spur gear version is made for printing on the average machine.
It uses 15 tooth spur gears generated by Blender
I printed it at 0.28mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle at 20mm/s perimeter, 50mm/s infill.

File organization
All the gears have a small support structure that needs to be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers or screwdriver.

100x100_plate 1&2 are made to fit on 100mm x 100mm build surface.
Plate 1 contains all the parts except the wheels. (one spider gear per side)
Plate 2 contains one wheel. (it needs to be printed twice)

200x200_plate is made to fit on a 200mm x 200mm build surface.
It contains all the parts plus the third and fourth spider gears that are not really required but look cool, plus the tux penguin pictured.

Zip file contains all the parts individually.

The Blend file is very large and processor heavy but 99% parametric (minus the gears).
The spur gear version requires the Spiral gear version Blend file for linked parts.

Attribution
Gro_tux by Le_Garage thingiverse.com/thing:4745
The math behind it can be seen odts.de/southptr/math/santander.htm
Gear ratio calculator for Nuttall type SPC odts.de/southptr/gears/nuttall.htm

Tools
Needle nose pliers or flat head screw driver. (to remove support)
M6 die (or 1/4" die)
Hex keys (allen keys)
Wrench for M6 nut (or 1/4" nut)
Drill with 4mm and 6mm drill bits (or 11/64" and 1/4")
CA glue (instant glue)

BOM
115mm of 6mm smooth rod (brass is preferred) (I used 1/4" and drilled the holes)
2 * M6 nuts (or 1/4" if using 1/4" smooth rod)
3-5 * M4 x 12 cap screws (I used no8 x 1/2" and drilled the holes)
2 * 5/16 nuts (sorry M8 will not work) threads pitch does not matter
3-10 * M4 or M5 washers. (no8 or no10)
3-5 * M4 nuts (or no8)
2 * 3-15/16" x 3-3/4" x3/32" O-ring (3.9375 x 3.75 x 0.094) (100mm x 95.25mm x 2.4mm)

The south pointing chariot is an ancient mechanical compass invented in China around 200 C.E. Texts mention their use up until around 1300 C.E. and they have descriptions of how they were built. But unfortunately there are no examples of ancient ones still in existence. Thankfully many people over the years have interpreted the ancient texts to come up with a variety of designs. Most of these designs use counter rotating differentials connected to each wheel and a common differential in the center with a pointing device to indicate South. How the differentials are oriented and connected to each other varies greatly though. I found this to be one of the most elegant designs and its attributed to a Mr. Nuttall.

This makes a great Demo showing the capabilities of 3D printing and will impress everyone you show. It only has ONE stationary part and 11-14 moving parts depending on configuration.

Version Information
Spiral gear version is made for printing on a well tuned machine.
It uses GeneralRulOfDumbs' spiral gears at 66% of the original size.
I printed it at 0.14mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle at 20mm/s perimeter, 30mm/s infill.

File organization
All the gears have a small support structure that needs to be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers or screwdriver.

100x100_plate 1&2 are made to fit on 100mm x 100mm build surface.
Plate 1 contains all the parts except the wheels. (one spider gear per side)
Plate 2 contains one wheel. (it needs to be printed twice)

200x200_plate is made to fit on a 200mm x 200mm build surface.
It contains all the parts plus the third and fourth spider gears that are not really required but look cool, plus the tux penguin pictured.

Zip file contains all the parts individually.

The Blend file is very large and processor heavy but 99% parametric (minus the gears).
The spur gear version requires the spiral gear version Blend file for linked parts.

Attribution
Spiral gears by GeneralRulOfDumb thingiverse.com/thing:10955
Gro_tux by Le_Garage thingiverse.com/thing:4745
The math behind it can be seen odts.de/southptr/math/santander.htm
Gear ratio calculator for Nuttall type SPC odts.de/southptr/gears/nuttall.htm

Tools
Needle nose pliers or flat head screw driver. (to remove support)
M6 die (or 1/4" die)
Hex keys (allen keys)
Wrench for M6 nut (or 1/4" nut)
Drill with 4mm and 6mm drill bits (or 11/64" and 1/4")
CA glue (instant glue)

BOM
115mm of 6mm smooth rod (brass is preferred) (I used 1/4" and drilled the holes)
2 * M6 nuts (or 1/4" if using 1/4" smooth rod)
3-5 * M4 x 12 cap screws (I used no8 x 1/2" and drilled the holes)
2 * 5/16 nuts (sorry M8 will not work) threads pitch does not matter
3-10 * M4 or M5 washers. (no8 or no10)
3-5 * M4 nuts (or no8)
2 * 3-15/16" x 3-3/4" x3/32" O-ring (3.9375 x 3.75 x 0.094) (100mm x 95.25mm x 2.4mm)

I created a parametric box script in OpenSCAD to make some custom storage boxes. My 11 year-old son asked if I could make him a box to hold a deck of Pokemon cards. He requested it have a Poke Ball on the front of the box and on the lid. I am anticipating he will be asking for more of these.

I included the OpenSCAD script. It is parametric and has the ability to create a box and lid in any size with dividers (in both X and Y). It can also round the corners as desired. The Poke Ball decorations can be easily removed and/or replaced with anything you desire. Enjoy!

I broke the cheap plastic ear hook thing that came with my Samsung bluetooth mic when I was surrounded by zombies last week. I suffered a fatal lack of communication to the detriment of my teammates. THEY ALL DIED, I TELL YOU!!! OH, THE HUMANITY!!!

Data Matrix bar code goes to my website tonybuser.com Picture shows top and bottom of single object printed simultaneously with dual extruders, no midprint filament color swapping.

Data Matrix created with Data Matrix Dualstrusionator: thingiverse.com/thing:12104

Face and text/logo created in inkscape and converted to dxf using this process: tonybuser.com/2d-to-3d

Yes, quality is a little rough at the moment with dual extrusion... but it's mostly a software problem to work out how best to keep nozzles from drooling between colors, skeinforge bugs with stl files with shapes inside shapes causing bad perimeter/infill, and there's a bug that causes the top layer not to print... That's why it's experimental - living on the edge!

These parts make it possible to use the LEDs to actually light up the figure inside the case rather than just the outer edges of the plexiglas.

This is a 100x150x68cm box made with openSCAD.

EDIT 09/30/2011 : I've added the .scad files in the .rar. The names are in French so I hope it's clear enough. I've made the shoulder and the arm after i've fixed my box size, therefore if you wish edit parameters everything might not realign correctly.

EDIT 10/09/2011 : I've cut the bottom part and the shoulder in half to be printed on a Makerbot.

A hangable 3D scanner based on the kinect, arduino, and a stepper motor.

Not working yet, but figured I'd put it up so I could get critiques and suggestions as I work.

The code base is currently in progress, will be borrowing heavily from Kyle McDonald's work for Makerbot, of course. Am sketching it up at the moment, unsure whether I want to do it in Java (very familiar) or Cpp through OF.

v0.2 (files up, not tested or 100%) Defined solution for hub. 4 piece design with bearings.

v0.15 Physical testing and modification of outerJoint and innerJoint. These include adding radial support screws, modified teeth, and refined build methods. The failed code is retained in the build methods with explanation, just for the hell of it.

v0.1 Framework of object and base line openSCAD file. Only parts printed/tested so far are arm joints.

This started out as a project to learn modeling in FreeCAD. I've attached the FreeCAD project file as well as the .stl models.

I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but it seems like it would work nicely in some kind of Halloween costume.

The main bracket works like a clip-on spray-paint trigger -- In fact, the bracket should fit other kinds of rattle cans as well.

The servo bracket was modeled to fit a hobby servo I had lying around. I've found that servos have a variety of different mounting screw patterns so you might have to modify this for whatever servo you're using.

A bent bit of paperclip works to connect the servo horn to the end of the trigger.

Here's a short clip of it firing: youtube.com/watch?v=fPpnoXX5sNc