A protective cover for a toothbrush in times of travel. Designed to be printable on a makerbot.

Far too often I find myself carrying my toothbrush in a plastic bag in my backpack, and sometimes even fully exposed. Before I waste the energy going out and trying to locate and purchase a cover, I figure I will enable the world with a solution in hopes that it will someday find its way back to me.

The cross section shows the conical inner wall leading up to a hole. This enables the part to print without support material, and the hole allows for easy cleaning under the faucet. The outer wall maintains the smooth semi elliptical form, causing thick areas near the top. I am interested to see how much deformation this may cause.

Total volume of part: 0.49 cubic inches

I took the schematic from the parent object and made some PCB layouts out of it. I applied a fix to add resisters to every transistor, otherwise parts are the same (4x TIP transistors, 4x resistors, 4x 1N400x diodes, 3x 2-pin connectors)

Here is a motor with a v8 configuration. It is two halves mounted ninety degrees from each other with the same crank shaft, connectors and pistons as the four cylinder just more of them. It is worth noting that they can be alternatively mounted flat or opposing piston configuration. I opted for the muscle of the V8!

I have added the crank shaft parts layout and the source file as separate files so if any parts brake, you don't have to print the whole thing again!

UPDATE: I have uploaded the fixed STL files, no more errors from Skeinforge! Thank you all for your valuable input as I am still learning too.

I have added a larger piston file but it requires good printer settings.

I decided to make a version of the sword from the 80's cartoon. As an exercise for using sketchup and for a present for a friend's birthday. Just in time for the impending "event" (T-cats reboot), this Friday.

I spent a lot of time on the model. I started with a few models from 3dwarehouse. None were very good for printing, or scaled well for actually holding. All of them relied on textures for details that wouldn't show up after printing.

Initially the model came out too small. Then it didn't fit the hand well. Once it was sized and shaped correctly I had to work out how it could be chopped up to fit my build envelope. The latest version has location holes to help line up parts and glue together. It seems that the blade has benefited greatly from the interior channel. Even without the filament the blade is stronger.

I'm working on another version with an insert for the eye and an insertion slot for the blade. So that the whole sword can be printed by colors: grip, blade, eye, jewel.

Finished sword is about 45 inches (1145mm) from pommel to tip.
Oh and time for print @ 30mm/s min layer time of 20 secs:
6x blade pieces 5 hours
blade tip 1.75 hours (cool min layer makes it take a long time)
eye holder 2.5 hours
2x grip pieces 2.75 hours
pommel pieces 2 hours
total about 14 hours

Please let me know if there are any issues.
I'm aware that looking through the hilt only gives you the "Sight of Regular Seeing." Working on that.
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Update V2:
Added an update eye holder piece, with an insertion hole for the blade, the blade can be printed (in an optional extra color) and sanded/cleaned/finished then inserted into the holder. The insertion point's clearance hasn't been tested, but should be close. Might need sanding cleaning for the blade to fit.

Also the new holder has inserts for the eye and cat emblem, which can be printed in two colors using the whole pause and swap method when it first starts printing the upper portion. This is also not printed yet but should be good. I'll print these and repport back later today.

So for this, obviously instead of eye-holder.stl you'd use eye-holderV2 and the inserts. One of each or two of the same one.

Switching to work in progress.

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Update V3:

Found a small geometry problem in the eye holder as well as the fact that the thin ring (around the eye/cat image) was too thin to print nicely so changes to the inserts as well. Apologies if this print is too tall, I looked up the build envelope for a stock cupcake and fixed the model to stay under the published height of 130mm but if you have trouble with that use the V3 eye holder and the new shorter blade pieces.

Removed the original eye holder to reduce confusion. Any combined print can be exported from the sketchup.

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Update V4:

Added the center channel for using threaded rod or double ended threaded studs. The hole is a 3mm and can be drilled out to a larger dim if need be. I've left the other registration holes for those that prefer to use that.

Also reversed the extrusion on the cat-insert to get around skeinforge's refusal to fill thin features. Prints *much* nicer. If you've already printed one, this one is a big improvement (see photo).

Yay! Ninjas in your kitchen! This is a printable "Shuriken" fridge magnet.
SHOW EVERYONE YOUR NINJA PRINTING SKILLS! :-D

Updated: Version 103 has more user-friendly parameters. The 103.stl has an altered impact angle. So if you plan on printing more than one: Download and print both STLs for a more natural "ninja attack" look :-)

This is the badge the Hack a Day team wore around CES and gave away to a few people. You can see the posts here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/08/ces-update-makerbot-gets-a-badge/
and here:
hackaday.com/2010/01/09/ces-update-ces-badges/

Here is the how-to post on how the badge was created in OpenSCAD:
hackaday.com/2010/01/11/how-to-make-a-printable-ces-badge/

Now everyone can show that they read hackaday.com with this custom-designed badge.
It takes a little over an hour to print and the wrenches are pretty much guaranteed to pull up and/or warp the build surface.

I made a few changes to the original that make it easier to print on a MakerBot Cupcake. I printed it raftless for smoother, flatter surfaces.

Changes: (1) slightly shrunk the gear teeth, so they mesh well without sanding; (2) adjusted the dimensions of tabs and holes for better assembly fit; (3) removed some non-manifold geometry from the inside.

I saw this: voxelo.us/products.html and couldn't wait to buy one, so I designed and printed one myself. If you like it you should probably support the official figurines.

A protective cover for a toothbrush in times of travel. Designed to be printable on a makerbot.

Far too often I find myself carrying my toothbrush in a plastic bag in my backpack, and sometimes even fully exposed. Before I waste the energy going out and trying to locate and purchase a cover, I figure I will enable the world with a solution in hopes that it will someday find its way back to me.

The cross section shows the conical inner wall leading up to a hole. This enables the part to print without support material, and the hole allows for easy cleaning under the faucet. The outer wall maintains the smooth semi elliptical form, causing thick areas near the top. I am interested to see how much deformation this may cause.

Total volume of part: 0.49 cubic inches

Based on the Coreystruder. My MK5 filament drive cracked and blew (see images), so I needed a printable replacement filament drive on the double. So I patched up the filament drive and printed this, a variation on the Coreystruder which was almost exactly what I needed. Changes include:

- Ribs on the motor side for better support
- Reduced vertex count on holes/edges to print better
- M5 screw/nut combo for tensioning the plunger, same as MK5 drive
- MK5 compatible screwholes and tongues on bottom
- A cover to hold the plunger in

A python script to generate OpenSCAD models to generate two parts of a box that screw together and snap fit if you find your way through the maze :)

UPDATE: because I got so many requests from people I now offer printed versions for sale at: hackerspaceshop.com/3dprinting/a-mazing-box.html
contact me for custom mazes :)

This is a derivative work of Coin-op Bottle Opener by Hoeken.


Makerbot branded bottle opener for giveaways.

UPDATE: I found a problem with the makerbot_bottle_opener2.stl causing the letters to be at different heights. Now its fixed and uploaded 5/18/10

Makerbot bottle opener.stl is an embossed logo, opener 2.stl is a bigger embossed logo, and cut.stl is a debossed logo.

Ever stood on a golf course and ran out of tees? Well, never again! Just drag your MakerBot (or MiniMendel) out of your golf bag and print one.

ABS seems to be great for this. I was able to play 18 holes with one tee and it's still intact :)

What's cooler than transformers? A Cupcake CNC transformer with a Bre head? This is a fully articulated assembly that transforms from a Cupcake CNC to a Bre-bot.
I started with a snap-together design (see the attached concept sketches) but migrated to a bolt-together kit for various reasons. The final design allows for fine adjustment of the joint tension so the transformer can stand in any position but still be movable, positionable, transformable!

See the animated transformation here: jmillerid.com/wordpress/2010/05/cupcake-cnc-transformer/

Modeled in NX6, rendered and animated in Modo, .stl files cleaned up in Blender, exploded view created with Rhino and Illustrator, sketches with Sharpie.

Update 02010-05-21
I tackled the gutz: thingiverse.com/thing:3196

Update 02010-05-20
I added zipped versions of the skull files.

Want a Godzilla-headed, skull-headed, Ganesh-headed or any-headed Cupcake Transformer‽

Here are the files.

This thing is a mash-up between the head of jmillerid's Cupcake-winning "Cupcake Transformer" thingiverse.com/thing:2865 and bryanbrutherford's sick "Chester Copperpot" skull thingiverse.com/thing:2567. Two great tastes that now taste great together!

For even more transcendental transformative transmutative fun, mash up the Transformer's "back.stl" to kustomize its gutz.

* LOLCat head with cheeseburger gutz
* Pirate head with treasure chest gutz
* Daft Punk head with ‽‽‽ gutz

If someone doesn't beat me to it, I'll tackle the gutz soon.

Go!

BTW, the attached skull1.stl file is a MakerBot-sized and oriented version of "Chester Copperpot."

At last, the symbol of Star Trek is on Thingiverse! I created this because a friend of mine wanted to dress up as a character from Star Trek, and didn't have the appropriate gear. The clothes are pretty easy to find, but the badge isn't so simple to get a hold of... or at least it wasn't.

The stl seems to skeinforge weirdly, which probably has something to do with the way I joined the two pieces of the badge. Having printed it I can attest to the fact that it prints very well, despite the perilous overhang, which leaves plenty of room for any small electronic bits you might want to insert and try to make the badge do something cool.

Sorry for the rendered image - I haven't printed one out for myself yet.

VIDEO HERE: youtube.com/watch?v=D7nDykz6R1o

Step one: Print one of each, but you will need two caps.

Step two: Assemble wheel onto base then cog wheel.

Step three: Press or glue pins on axles.

Step four: Spin wheel in amazement!

Made obsolete by thingiverse.com/thing:2341

Use for separating cap from beer bottle (non-twistoff).

Works on the same principle as banging the bottle against a counter.

Does not require the addition of any other parts (such as a penny as Zach originally suggested).

Next version will have the handle slot deleted/fixed since it does not print correctly.

Currently is in beta state, has opened a bottle for me, but may not work for you. Please submit photos of the bottles it did not work on so I can improve the design.

Current GCode file is for 4032D PLA, but may work for ABS. Its also raft-less since Ive found PLA prints better without one.

Note: If you are making your own GCode for this, make sure you use at least 50% infill as anything less than that may make the part too weak to open the beer.

So far I have been able to open 3 bottles with one made out of PLA before failure. Let me know how different materials fair for you.

This is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.