I'm leaving Thingiverse after seeing updated Terms of use thingiverse.com/legal , over next few days I will remove all my stuff. It will be downloadable on my website josefprusa.cz or reprap.org I prefer to by owner of my own designs :-)

We are not trolls, as Raldrich said

"The fact that the legal ramifications of MakerBot's TOS weren't discovered until today doesn't magically give them a free pass.

The fact that they don't intend (today) to exercise the rights they've granted themselves also doesn't magically give them a free pass. Companies change - take a look at their stance on Open Source Hardware."

Also Replicator 2 is Closed Source, at least everything looks like it and guy on Makerbot support phone told me so.
Check out my open letter to Bre Pettis here josefprusa.cz/open-hardware-meaning/
Help out by spreading the word! reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/10642q/open_hardware_meaning_josef_prusa/
slashdot.org/submission/2267155

Link it, tweet it, comment it! Help the cause and show them we want it Open Source!

First alternative garyhodgson.com/reprap/2012/09/githubiverse-a-github-pages-template-for-3d-printing-projects/

Print the Test Cube as ugly as you can and post picture of it as "I made one" :-)

Jo Prusa, RepRap core dev

Laser cut Y axis frame for MendelMax

A Reddit Upvote arrow for the laser cutter - great for whiteboards, fridges magnets, and magnetic bookends.

I created this Bowl using the bottom mesh of a Truncated icosahedron, then some Organic post processing.

Size: 150mmX150mmX80mm
Suitable for plastic printing or Glazed Ceramics.

This is a tool to make M8 hobbing bolts.

It uses two 608 bearings to hold an 8mm bolt.

The tool assumes a lathe tool holder of at least 10x10mm... I used it on my Rotwerk EDM350DR and it worked fine :)

In the theme of:
thingiverse.com/thing:19294
thingiverse.com/thing:19844
thingiverse.com/thing:19445
thingiverse.com/thing:19300

...and so forth, I present my own pile of used up objects.

Derived from:

thingiverse.com/thing:21430

I made and post these because I don`t like the prusa2 push fit x ends.. because... they are pushfit... :-)

Coupler for Z Axis, Revision 3, Beefed up a little. Created in PTC Creo

A printed idler holder for running a belt through the stepper motor.

This is a DLP projector-based resin printer that can make very fine 3D prints in record time.

This is a work in progress. Today I plan to begin actual experiments with the resin.

I believe the basic design I am producing here is very suitable, however, the details of the design need changes in almost every part to be ideal. Most importantly, the vat should probably be much shorter, but the whole thing could be made significantly smaller.

I am currently using resin from
Bucktown Polymers:

bucktownpolymers.com/

(You might notice their price for resin is cheaper than some current PLA prices, by volume)

A2Sheds has provided a page with a few helpful resources, as well as the beginnings of his own DLP project:

code.google.com/p/lemoncurry/wiki/main

This is very much a work in progress. Expect more photos and videos to come.

Here's a link to my flickr site documenting this project:

flickr.com/photos/13723140@N04/sets/72157629564335469/

Video of resin cure here:
youtu.be/UVDN2xq575A

Next steps: Experiment with resin. Create working software stack.

Known Issues: Vat is too tall/big, glass may be too weak/thin. Vat probbaly needs a nonstick coating, like silicone or PTFE. Z Axis range is 5", vat is 5", so Z stage cannot quite clear the vat. A2Sheds recommends a heated vat to 50c so the resin flows better...

This is a heated bead mount of the Prusa Iteration 2.

Yet another endstop holder.

Mine seem to move up and down a little, so I made these with a tighter and taller clamp. They also support a few different hole spacings.

Necessity (and personal preference) are the mother of invention, right?

These ends are installed on my MendelMax, with over a dozen print-hours on them and I am extremely happy with the Acme rods and these ends. I hope others may, also. I have them listed as "a work in progress", but honestly do not forsee making further modifications.

I desired to move from regular threaded rod to Acme rod and found inexpensive 3/8-12 oil-finish Acme rod at Enco. I then began looking at available X-end designs... and found Aleph Object's variation of their great clamp-style ends : thingiverse.com/thing:14812

Close, but not quite exactly what I wanted.

Features of these ends are double-nut with spring column for anti-lash and head-crash protection with integrated spring "perch" or "seat", fully-enclosed double LM8UU bearing column, "improved" x-rod clamping area, and an integrated nut-trap and screw for z-endstop mech switch triggering.

I am one of the unfortunates whose original-style z-rod lowers both delaminted at original assembly time. I repaired them, and they have been fine, but it has been in the back of my head to work up a re-design... then AO released : thingiverse.com/thing:15861
This piece incorporates everything I had in mind... except that Thing was designed to use 608 bearings. I have the "original" thrust bearings for z-motor load reduction, so I derived this version implementing the hole sizes from maxbots' original piece.

Acrylic Electronics Mount Plate

The Acrylic Mount Plate, for Prusa or Mendel design Reprap 3D printers, is capable of mounting RAMPS and/or Sanguinololu electronics. The mount plate is made of 5.5mm thick clear acrylic that allows for better viewing than wooden mounting plates. Also, you have no worries of slicing your arm open on a sharp acrylic corner as the plate has rounded edges.


Specifications
-Capable of mounting RAMPS and/or Sanguinololu electronics
-5.5mm thick clear acrylic
-Size: 28cm x 9cm x 5.5cm
-Rounded corners

Parts
-Acrylic electronics mount plate
-4x Printed mount bracket (elc_mount_bracket.stl)

Other Vitamins
-4x 6.35mm stand-off spacer
-8x M3 35mm screws, nuts, and washers to mount the plate
-4x M3 screws to mount the electronics (length depends on your electronics)


Licensing
-Parts and files: GPLv3
-Images: CC BY SA

As a huge fan of the superman universe, I once modeled this logo. I know there is already one pretty similar available at thingiverse, but my version, if viewed from side, is planar.

As seen on the picture, mine was made of ceramic.

Modeled in Maya

I have now uploaded a new version the PL2Q Hugin
thingiverse.com/thing:19161

Its a 3d printable quadcopter frame that i have designed, all parts is printable. See youtube.com/watch?v=DLrN-lrLtUs

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, L, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
NOTE: error in script regarding L and H pulleys spotted by OSTycoon (see comments) - the script says H, but actually it is L profile.
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.

22 March 2012 - Updated for issue spotted by mfinn - see comments

The blog said someone should make these so I did.

I had this model sitting on my hard drive since Christmas 2010, completely forgotten until this blogpost: blog.thingiverse.com/2012/02/21/oo-someone-make-one-of-these/

One hour on the Thing-O-Matic and here we are: youtube.com/watch?v=mebIrOiDggw

It's a very different experience, seeing the model in person. The illusion is not convincing at all for the two-eyed among us.

This Thing is a coral frag plug that is used when propagating coral (i.e. "fragging") in the saltwater aquarium hobby.

The post for this frag plug has been made removable making it much easier to glue a mounted frag into place in your aquarium as you now don't have to deal with the post being in the way. Rejoice!

Coral fragments are either cut or broken off of the mother colony and then glued to this frag plug using cyanoacrylate gel (superglue). The resulting fragged coral plug is mounted into 14mm eggcrate that is submerged in the saltwater aquarium where it is left until it is either traded with another hobbyist or sold at a frag swap.

OpenSCAD file to design nut-capture boxes. Specify bolt size, nut size, wall thickness, etc.

RepRap Mendel variant using two sheets at right angles for the frame.

The printrbot team working on the hot end decided to take the Microsoft approach, and not make itself backward compatible with existing hot ends... This frustrated the heck out of me, so i designed an adapter so any hot end will fit.

Really printrbot? Come on.

This is a mount and X-carriage for the Budaschnozzle hot end - reprap.org/wiki/LulzBot/Budaschnozzle. I wanted to gain a few mm of build height so I fused the mount on the Open X Carriage. I also thought that the mount that came with the hot end needed to be improved to work with the Wade extruder. This would extend the PTFE tubing (0.25" OD x 0.125"ID) past the current mount so it meets the extruder and it includes a filler where the insulator would usually mount to center the PTFE tubing.

I just realized that this doesn't really gain any build height since it doesn't change the distance from the nozzle tip to the top of the extruder. So, I'll update it with the modified nozzle mount instead.

I wasn't really happy with the existing laser cut build platform... So I added my own.

The hole in the middle was added to provide a way to route the heated build platform wires and make for a cleaner end design.

the OpenX carriage is incompatible with the Prusa design because the belt runs differently. I created these adapters to hopefully work with the prusa belt.

!!! I don't have a prusa, yet, to test with, so this is just an idea for now. If you want to print and try, go right ahead and please give feedback!

This is combined carriage and extruder for 70mm spaced vertical x-axis. It uses 4 lm8uu bearings and can be removed from the machine without tools or disassembly of the x-axis. With the idler open the hobbed bolt and gear can be removed and cleaned without tools. I've done an extruder test and it rides nicely on the rails, but i wont be able to print anything with it until i build the rest of the machine.
X-ends available here:
thingiverse.com/thing:18539

This is our first model created by a student in our school to print on our Makerbot!
This gun started as a high-resolution modelling assignment in 3D Studio. Andrew designed, modelled and cut up the gun so it could be printed in our Makerbot.

I placed all parts in one file and removed the nickname from the original conrod.

Takes 3 LM8UU bearings.

Comes with an integrated belt tensioning system (see red carriage).

Has integrated slots for cable-ties to get a really firm grip on those bearings.

Fan mount is an option in the scad file if you don't want it.

Works great with one of my extuders mounted at an angle to maximise x travel.