This is my version of a Mini Fig. I measured, modeled, and scaled a mini fig x2. I made minor modifications to make it printable and articulating.

It is printed in red PLA with a mendel reprap. The slices are 0.2 mm to gain the details needed for printing in original size.

For that I just resized it to the size of standard lego (exactly factor 0.5). Because of the miniaturisation I had to change the hole for the clamp of the hips. Also I slightly increased the size of the arms for a better fit to the hands.

I glued some nails into the arms and put them into the holes of the torso. Now you can also move the arms!

For a better fit to lego bricks I cut of two squares into the legs - now it can stand on lego :-)

This thing was a christmas present for my parents: My childhood home in 3D!

It was hard work to come from the sketch to the printed miniature version of the house.

The final result consists of 11 parts. It was designed with openSCAD.
One can easy look at each floor separately.

All parts are resized to ~1/65 scale to make them printable on my reprap mendel.
The parts wese printed of PLA with a slice thickness of 0.2 mm.
The complete prining time was about 65 h.
To make sure the roof will not brake away from the printbed, I glued it with a hot-melt gun - easy to remove from PLA and from the printbed, but sticky enough for that purpose.

Hope you have fun with it - my parents had!

For more information look here: ifeelbeta.de

Greetings
BonsaiBrain

This is prototype 18 of the laser cut circuitry into something cute.

A simple conveyor belt build platform for the MakerBot. It enables the MakerBot to do multiple prints without user intervention.

This is an initial prototype that does not support a heated build platform. I intend to add HBP support at a later time. I'm also still playing with conveyor belt materials. I've started with some Duralar I picked up for an art supply store. It has held up ok so far but more experimentation is required.

The intent here is to get the design out so people can play with it.

A rebuild version of the Plywood Crate made by Joris van Tubergen.
thingiverse.com/thing:1512

I made it so that the parts can be clicked together into a box, it also is stackable, you can build a tower of these.
The source file is for a lower sized version of the box. You can modify the file to fit the size you need.

Material used: 3mm plywood

A fix for the Stackable box to correct one of the edge connector lengths.

This has been fixed in the original ( thanks Martijn ).

Please Refer to original -> thingiverse.com/thing:3158

Perhaps one of the funnest projects we have attempted around the .:oomlout:. offices. A five degrees of freedom robotic arm. While we have spent many hours twisting knobs to move pop cans from one point on our desk to another sadly it has not progressed much further.
The main reason for this is the sum total of math knowledge around the oomlout.com offices is about 4 (don't ask us to show our work on how we calculated this) so inverse kinematics is well beyond our reach.

We are releasing it in an imperfect form in the hope that the clever Thingiverse denizens will be able to make it better.

Why this isn't quite ready for sale:
-We lack any inverse kinematics program which makes moving the arm intelligently nearly impossible.
-Without software limits on the servos it is capable of stripping the low cost hobby servo motors (this is alright for testing as they are only five dollars) (we have stripped two in the life of our arm and both happened when we were asking it to do silly things) (this can be fixed by upgrading the servos)
-We haven't completed the 3d model or assembly instructions just yet, but by studying the photos it is possible to assemble. (think more jigsaw puzzle than lego set)
-The gripper, lets just say the gripper needs a little work.

That said it is an amazingly fun toy to play around with, and a good starting point if anyone has ever had a desire to make the perfect robotic arm (it is open source so you'd be free to make and sell your own)

(shameless plug)

For more details about becoming a Robotic Arm Developer visit our blog
(http://www.oomlout.com/blog)

A gripper compatible with a mini servo I used the Topline ES-05 JR, I milled it with a 3-axis cnc machine but its also printable. Made of 4mm hardboard.

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=7CUNx4kPw6w

For more pictures and info:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/my-mini-servo-grippers-and-completed-robotic-arm/

Have you ever wanted a Gothic Cathedral of your very own?

Are you intimidated by the centuries long construction schedule, and the punishing job requirements of being a European Bishop during the Dark Ages?

Then We Have a Thing For YOU!

The Gothic Cathedral Play Set!

After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl)

Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here.

A rice mold for making Mario themed rice balls. I created these for use in bento boxes, which I've been blogging here: kellbot.com/category/bento

These each use a little less than a 1/4 cup (dry) Japanese sushi rice.

A modified version of this could be done on a Makerbot or 3D printer, if anyone wants to attempt it.

I like the look of Make magazine (http://makezine.com/) on my bookshelves but I wanted something to store them in that was similar to the holders I use for other magazines. Make's (and Craft's) unique form factor require a custom solution.

The images show the Make Magazine logo and cover art for each year. I'm assuming that I can't include the cover images in the files here but I downloaded them from Make's own website if you want to make them exactly like mine (http://makezine.com/covers/)

Each file is designed for a loose fit for gluing and has been sized to contain four issues (one year).

RotaVac is an experimental "centrifugal compressor", designed to be printable as a single piece and spun in a drill or machine to generate a negative pressure gradient.

RotaVac is designed to fit a standard 608 bearing like the sort used in Makerbots, so that a small nozzle (printed separately?) can be fitted through the bearing interior.

This is a pure experiment, and I'll post more when I have a chance to test it!

Our upstairs neighbor is Aoki Sushi, and I was challenged to make a sake box. I made this design out of 6mm cherry plywood, and am currently gluing it together. I'm pretty sure it's not water tight, and Elmers wood glue is not the answer for holding in sake, but who knows, it might work :)

If you know of a good food and alcohol safe wood treatment, please leave it in the comments.

This was an experiment to see if FlightsOfIdeas' SVG outline plugin for SketchUp could handle inside corners.
it will, but draw the inside edges last. It's a bit tricky. Check the SketchUp model.

A python script to generate OpenSCAD models to generate two parts of a box that screw together and snap fit if you find your way through the maze :)

This crate is designed by Joris van Tubergen in the ProtoSpace FabLab, Utrecht (Netherlands). We use this crate for storage of a lot of stuff.
The design is made for 4mm plywood, and just fits in the Epilog mini helix 12x24 inch laser.

Warning: this code is pretty rough, but it works!

This project is a derivative of the code originally written by Allan Ecker, found at:

thingiverse.com/thing:747

thingiverse.com/thing:783

thingiverse.com/thing:849

Code will continue to be updated at github.com/davemenninger/Parametric-GCode

I will try to remember to re-upload the latest versions of the code here on Thingiverse as it changes.

This is the second half of my openscad.org gear sets.

I couldn't get the top and bottom parts of the double helical to union properly, so I ended up offsetting the bottom piece by 0.1mm :( It skeins and prints fine though.

This thing is part of a set:
- spur gears: thingiverse.com/thing:1336

UPDATE: I'm printing some gears and noticed a couple mistakes on the openSCAD script: the variable 'orientation' wasn't doing anything and the value 'extrudeInDiam' was in fact being used as radius. They're both fixed now and I uploaded a new version of the script.

Felt like the Old School Space Rocket needed a stand to show it off to best effect... and I needed something to play around with automatic tab generation in sketchup.

Here's the result, dressed up to look like a cartoon exhaust cloud.

This is an update of the Old School Space Rocket, based on comments from Bre after he cut and build the first physical copy.

Change log:
1. Made the spines that run the length of the hull twice as thick, for structural support and for aesthetics.
2. Re-made the ribs that define the cross-section of the hull from scratch with circular voids and fine-tuned dimensions for aesthetics and better fit.
3. Hollowed out the legs for aesthetics.
4. Re-made the feet using the same spine & rib method as the hull, for consistency, for the challenge, for aesthetics, and for the win!
5. Re-arranged the pieces on the cutting pattern so that you could cut from two rectangles instead of a single square.

After seeing some kids playing with a little air plane powered by compressed air from a soda bottle, I decided to see if I could make a laser cuttable version of such a motor.

This is not a very powerful or efficient motor, but it is a fully working printable ("cuttable"?) air vane motor. My next goal will be to make a full printable bottle-powered park-flyer.

A video of the motor in action: youtube.com/watch?v=reaB0R9ALHs

More on air vane motors:
hydraulicspneumatics.com/200/TechZone/FluidPowerAcces/Article/True/6422/TechZone-FluidPowerAcces

Matt made a version for 3D printers. You can find it here: thingiverse.com/thing:620

A single-digit split-flap display, like the displays in old train stations. Rig it up to a stepper motor and you'll have yourself a low-power retro-cool display. This Thing doesn't include any controlling electronics. Big ups to Metrix Create:Space, where this was designed and made.

It's a geared calling card! Two slots in the top layer display different information as you turn the smaller gear, and a little window lets you watch the gears mesh.

A calling card with working planetary gears. Astound your friends, frustrate your nemisii.

(Update: I've moved the gears slightly to the right, reducing the number of cut parts to assemble.)