The most minimal RAMPS mounting I could come up with.

You'll notice from the photos that M3 hardware doesn't exactly fit, and I had to put one bolt /under/ the board as a result.

I plan to shorten my wires and do some more fixing up, sorry for the awful and blurry photos.

This is an improved phone holder. Its made to allow for the outlet above it to be used while the phone holder is plugged in. It also does not require to be bent after making it. It is designed for an Apple iPhone charger.

FabScan - Affordable 3D Laser Scanning of Physical Objects

The images on the left show some scans made by the scanner.
The software allows to automatically produce a .stl of the scanned pointcloud.

For more information on the project check this site: hci.rwth-aachen.de/FabScan

This adapter slides on to an airgun "10mm" dovetail as found on my Cannon 737 (Sharp Innova). The rail is slightly split so that the clamping action of the scope closes the adapter up on the 10mm dovetail.

Not sure how much abuse it'll stand up to on a spring airgun but seems OK for pneumatics.

This DIY filament spool can easily be adjusted by different rod lengths or arm sizes. The current design is made for 8mm threaded rods between the center and the arms. You also need two 608 bearings for the center part. I tried around 3kg of filament on the big version with 13cm long threaded rods. Works just fine and helps to avoid tangled up filament.

We also offer the small version in our webshop: cubic-print.com/DIY-Filament-Spool

This is an F1 car made to the specs of the Boy Scouts Pinewood Derby Cars

I took this wonderful brain slug: [ thingiverse.com/thing:11426 ], cleaned it up a bit, and added a slot for a standard hair clip. Now you can wear a brain slug in your hair!

> Today's mission is for all of you to go to the Brain Slug Planet, and just walk around not wearing a helmet.

Small containers to organize bolts/nuts/washer/everything
The little room in front serve to show an example of what's inside or to put a label.

I wasn't satisfied with the existing solutions here (usually 3-4mm panel assembled) while we can do that in one piece with thin walls (2 perimeters is fine even with hundred of M8 nuts).

Next thing to come is a laser-cut shelves for these containers ^^
Done ! thingiverse.com/thing:12294

3d Printable Feet and Pegs for full-size AtFAB Chair.

AtFAB Chair cut-file available at: filson-rohrbacher.com/atfab_001.html

"Inspired from" Thing 5570. thingiverse.com/thing:5570

I threw this together a while ago and have used it a good bit. I kinda forgot about it because I now use mostly PLA and the marker thing doesn't work well on PLA. It works very well on ABS though.

This holds two standard Sharpie markers (i.e. "fine" not "ultra fine") and should clear a standard Cupcake's roof hole. I've no idea about the ToM but I expect it should work as well. I originally made a similar thing for one marker but it didn't color the filament very much resulting in very light coloring. Two markers actually tints the filament enough to be noticable. Three would be better, and it follows that 4 would be better-er. I suppose I could throw a three pronged one together. Might be a good exercise to make parametric in openSCAD. I think a holder that bristles with Sharpies might colorate stuff pretty good.

The image with the two parts shown is close to how it really looks. One is natural ABS the other is natural ABS colored with two black Sharpies. The final color is what I'd call a dark gray. The color is throughout the part and fairly even. Long prints you do notice the color getting lighter as the markers run out. After a six hour print the two sharpies were getting low. Most colors come out light to dark pastel colored.

I've done many turtles this way. thingiverse.com/thing:4178 The turtles shown are single blue marker, single green marker and the weird looking one is natural (clear) PLA with a single red marker, then a single blue marker. The red just made the PLA look over-cooked orange, the blue wasn't too bad but not as nice as the ABS.

Note: There is some solvent in the markers that allows the ink to soak into the ABS. If you rub a Sharpie on ABS then break the filament you will see what I mean. That said, if you leave the markers in this rig in contact with the stationary filament it will (fairly quickly actually) cause this filament to shear off cleanly at that point. I've not noticed any weakness of the printed colored parts compared to natural parts. I expect the solvent is boiled off in the hot end.

This is a functional differential gear system. For those unfamiliar, a differential allows two output shafts to be spun at different speeds from a single input shaft. You will find these in most cars on the road.
For more info see auto.howstuffworks.com/differential1.htm

Print at YOUR OWN RISK, Neither the creator of this object nor thingiverse.com is responsible for anything that happens because you printed this object!

This is a near fully printable 5.56mm X 45mm or .233 REM AR-15 magazine. It is current only a 5 round magazine. I left my printed spring design out on purpose for saftey reasons. However, with a little printing experimention and some range time it can be made easily.

What is included is the magazine body, anti-tilt follower, and floorplate.

I have used this magazine, no jams or feed problems..... YET. It works, but be reminded it is only a printed ABS magazine. If you end up using a printed ABS mag spring be prepared for stress relaxation of the polymer over time, especailly if it is kept loaded over a long period of time.


DESIGN ERRATA------------------------------------------------------

09/20/2011 1:37pm MDT

The mag catch recess on the mag body(I don't know the official term) needs to move down from the feed lips approximately .010"-.015". My friends AR-15 sometimes would not feed the next round after firing. I believe that will address his problem. This will move the whole body up into the mag well approximate that far. Hopefully, that won't cause any issues with the bolt. I will post the fix sometime late tonight or early tomorrow. I apologize.

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Alterations from Parametric Wrench in OpenSCAD by Jamesdavid:

* made open end a little further from handle for extra strength at the stress points.
* made length change with diameter
* embossed size into handle (check out neat number_to_bitmap function!)
* added a little tolerance so it can actually fit over nuts

This is a set of 17 rings from size 0 to 16. Each has the size of the ring inscribed into the ring. Print it yourself or get it printed for as low as $19.04 here shpws.me/3hka

added small which is 106x102mm platform which should be printable on smaller platforms.

A case for the reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.3 board. Used here to drive a small milling machine with pyCAM/FiveD/ReplicatorG toolpath.
It is a tight fit that does not leave much room for ventilation so take care that the drivers do not run too hot.

keep your coffee preparation area looking tidy and professional, as well as protect your valuable bench top and portafilters.

The recess for the handle to slide into is 30mm wide

This Thing lets you convert a piece of bungee cord into a general purpose adjustable, secure, yet easily undoable elastic fastener. They are often used to attach a bicycle to a car bike rack, but can be used in plenty of other situations, such as tying up intruders until the police arrive.

I was bored on a Saturday afternoon and with an engineer friend. We decided to have a contest to see who could design and build the best printable bow and arrow, using the following constraints:

One 100mm x 100mm panel of parts
No more than 2 rubber bands
No adhesive
"Reasonable" print time (under 1.5 hours)
"Reasonable" design time (under 1.5 hours)

This was the my entry. The picture is of the first revision, which had a few issues (pins were too small to print cleanly, holes were not oversized enough, pins would shear). The uploaded file is the second revision, which has not yet been tested but should address all of these issues (my printer is down today with "null version reported" so I'll try to get it tested ASAP).

this is a no case tripod platform for a gopro with a screen attached. its a good fit but not snug enough to hold the camera. its for stationary positioning on my desk with a joby.

EDIT
i just discovered that the gopro will lay flat in it (lens facing up) and its a pretty snug fit.

Combines the latest versions of my truss modules with my interlocking connectors (flush version) to create a truss that (in theory) can be printed out and multiple pieces snapped together to create lengths that can't be printed.

EDIT: Updated code for calculating the length of the truss. You specify the "max length", which is the distance you want to span, and it makes sure the length of one connector is taken into account, under the assumption that the overlapping ends are recessed into the connector on the next truss. Or if you want to think of it another way, half of each connector is taken into account, assuming you leave them the same size.

EDIT: The solid truss .scad and V3 .stl have the connectors rotated so they are printable without crazy bridging and filing down. Trusses now interlock alternating with every truss connected at 180 degrees rotated along the truss axis from it's neighbor. To connect them, I press them finger tight (about halfway inserted) then lay them flat on a table and hammer it home with my fist. :-P So far, they seem to be impossible to separate without breaking the truss, and even then I haven't actually separated them. Which was sort of the idea of a locking connector.

The pins in this version are a little stronger and their slightly different shape makes them easier to insert and less likely to break. It also lets you make pegs which are printed horizontally so they are much stronger. Pegs can be used to join two parts that have holes in them. The pinholes also now have a small bevel in them to help make it easier to insert.

The syntax is totally different as well. It was kind of dumb to use global variables in the last version, now you pass the variables to each method so it's easier to have pins of various sizes in one project.

This design is derived from the parameterized Battery compartment: thingiverse.com/thing:5051 (By Guru). I have added a simple method for the electrical connections. The proof of concept was tested on this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:5070

NOW you can print your own fully-functional battery pack :-)

For every battery there are two embedded nuts in contact with the positive and negative poles. Two metal M3 bolts are inserted from the outside. They will contact with the poles. Now, you have a wonderful electrical access to the battery!!

I have tested with 2-AAA and 4-AAA battery packs. It worked like a charm :-)

In addition, I have added more parameters for generating the battery pack: the thickness of the bottom, front and rear, and side walls as well as the distance between two batteries.

Update: Jan/30/2011. Added the contribution of eaglepex ( thingiverse.com/eagleapex ). Now the batteries can also be in serial connection changing the ser parameter

The MiniSkybot robot is an educational open robot. Its chassis is minimal: it consist only of two tricked servos joined by two U-pieces.

Now the robot is in an early stage of development. We are testing different minimal chassis.

You can see a video Here: youtube.com/watch?v=x1v-4ejwBKk
(This video is intended for my students so I am talking in Spanish)

More information here:
iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mini-Skybot:_Ch%C3%A1sis

The pieces have been designed with OpenScad. All the virtual pieces have been assembled with Freecad

This is the parameterized version of the servo wheel. The wheel diameter, height and o-rings parameters can be defined by the user. These are the type of wheels we are using for our printable robot projects. For example, the Miniskybot robot ( thingiverse.com/thing:7989 )

Currently the target servo is Futaba 3003.

The MiniSkybot is a new mobile robot aimed for educational purposes. It has three new important features: 3D-printable, fully open-source (mechanics + electronics) and designed exclusively with Open source tools (OpenScad, Freecad and Kicad)

This robotic platform allows the students not only to learn robot programming, but also to modify easily the chassis and create new custom parts. Being open source the robot can be freely modified, copied, and shared across the Internet. In addition, it is extremely cheap, being the cost almost exclusively determined by the cost of the servos, electronics and sensors.

This work is being done between three professors from the Robotics Lab at Carlos III University of Madrid and one part-time teacher at Universidad Autonoma the Madrid:

* Dr. Juan Gonzalez-Gomez (UC3M)
* Andres Prieto-Moreno (UAM)
* Dr. Alberto Valero (UC3M)
* Dr. Mohammed Abderrahim (UC3M)

Also, there are serveral engineering students involved.

The robot chassis has been design with Openscad. More information can be found on this link: iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mini-Skybot_v1.0

The electronics consist of the open-source hardware Skycube board (http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skycube), a small board with an PIC16F876A micro-controller designed with the open-source Kicad EDA tool.

The following things previously designed and uploaded to thingiverse have been used:

* Servo wheels: thingiverse.com/thing:4767
* Parameterized battery pack: thingiverse.com/thing:5079

The Chassis is an evolution of the proof of concept minimal chassis:

thingiverse.com/thing:4954

We want to thank to all our students who are testing and improving this robot. Special thanks to Olalla Bravo ( thingiverse.com/Olalla ) for the design of the Castor wheel.

This preliminary work will be presented soon at the 6th International Symposium on Autonomous Minirobots for Research and Edutainment ( amiresymposia.org/amire2011/ )

UPDATE 2011/May/28
The paper and slides about the MiniSkybot, presented at the Amire 2011 conference can be found at iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Paper:2011-Amire-Miniskybot

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=RSO1v0a-HO8

UPDATE 2011/Jun/23
A new video of CW Kreimer explaining and showing his Miniskybot: youtube.com/watch?v=2EqvuPXYKf0

UPDATE 2011/Dec/05
The new skymega board (Arduino compatible) is now being using for controlling the robot: thingiverse.com/thing:14197

Have you ever wanted to watch your MakerBot print while you are away? Perhaps setup a live feed of your MakerBot? Or just want to add a webcam to your MakerBot? Then this will hopefully help you out.

The MakerBot Webcam Attachment (It needs a better name) is a printable mount that attaches your webcam to a printable arm which connects to the frame of your MakerBot. By setting up a VNC server on the computer controlling your MakerBot and attaching the webcam, you will then be able to control and watch your MakerBot from any computer in the world with internet access! Also, you could setup a web sever on that computer and host a live stream of what is print on your MakerBot.

Now the question is, Is this a MakerCam or do you have a WebBot?
If anyone has questions about setting up a web server or a VNC server, I'll do my best to answer them.

This is sized for a Microsoft LifeCam HD-5000 [ microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/p/lifecam-hd-5000/7ND-00001 ], but can easily be modified for a different camera with the included SCAD file.

The last image is a sample taken from the webcam.

WARNING: As barrychuck brought out, running a MakerBot while unattended is very dangerous. I am not responsible for any damage or harm that occurs from use of this part. Use this at your own risk!

This is a simple carabiner to be used as a keyring. (this will not hold alot of weight, so don't try mountain climbing with it!)

With wanting to bike more and track distance, speed, calories etc. and with an upcoming road trip to New York for a wedding, I needed to get cracking on making a cell phone mount. I finally had some time this weekend to design, build and test this simple mount. It can be mounted to a bike or a car and also configured various ways for different applications; horizontal bars or vertical bars.

It's designed to fit the HTC Evo 4G with a Rocketfish case as seen here:
rocketfishproducts.com/products/phones-tablets-gps/RF-WR542.html

Some other cases may work just fine.

My inspirations:

thingiverse.com/thing:9195

thingiverse.com/thing:5260

Thanks guys!

Some features:

-speakers & camera not blocked, so the sound is not muffled
-microphone not blocked, so people can actually hear you
-micro USB port not blocked, so you can charge your phone while mounted
-volume rocker accessible and 3.5mm head phone jack accessible
-easy swapping between clamps and car flex mount
-low parts count! Yay, for anti-rotation designs.

The 3 point contact appears to hold the phone very well. I tested this off some really sweet jumps and my phone never wriggled loose...but test it out first. I did lots of shake tests and then copious amounts of curb jumping.

This project began when my son chose to investigate block and tackle for his 1st grade science fair project. I was going to zip down to the local Home Depot and buy the supplies, but then thought, “I should just print em!”. I iterated the design a couple of times before I printed the first full assembly. Then printed 3 more full assemblies. Works great! You will see that there are two types of sheaves, a single and double. The double actually should have been two separate thin sheaves next to each other within the pulley plates. The rope had very little friction, so I don't think much advantage was lost. Wooden dowels (1/4”) were used to hold the hooks, eyes and sheaves between the side plates. You can decide whether to use a hook or eye on each end.

Writeup containing actual links at eclecti.cc/hardware/physical-keygen-now-for-disc-detainer-locks

The Physical Keygen post got some interesting reactions, but there was a common claim among many of them that it was just a gimmick because there are more practical ways of getting past basic Schlage and Kwikset pin tumbler locks. I agree with that, and I’ll also admit that a fair number of my projects are gimmicks, or as a stretch, art. Schuyler Towne of Open Locksport saw past the gimmick (or art) and into the possibility of printing keys for more interesting locks.

He stopped by recently with a collection of said locks, and over the period of a few hours we found that keys for disc detainer locks were printable and created a nearly working ABUS Plus key. He left me a cutaway lock, and over the next week, I refined the model to the point of working straight off of the printer. Despite being a higher security lock than the SC1 or KW1 pin tumblers I was working with before, the key is much easier to print accurately. The OpenSCAD model is linked below, and like the last files, you simply edit the last line to match the code for your key.

The ABUS Plus and other disc detainer locks are much more common in Europe than the US, but we do have a pretty ubiquitous example around here. After the Bic Pen debacle in 2004, Kryptonite switched their bicycle U-locks from tubular to disc detainer. I designed a model off of the key from the Kryptonite Evolution I have, but as of yet, I have not successfully opened the lock with it. The key is smaller and thinner than the ABUS Plus, causing it to flex too much to effectively turn the last few discs. I’ve posted the file anyway, in case someone has stronger plastic or an idea to strengthen the model.

EDIT: The Kryptonite key works. I tightened my X and Y belts and printed it a bit slower. Apparently some of the blobbing on the corners before was catching on disks.