Rather than spend time printing springs for a project, I made this little mold to make them out of raw 3mm PLA filament. It measures 3/4" by 3" tall. Since there are no shear planes in this twisted filament, the springs it creates will be a lot tougher than anything printed.

I think this concept could be used to produce torsion springs as well as conical compression springs with different molds.

If you wrapped the filament around a dowel with the sides of the filament touching, you could make an extension spring instead of a compression spring.

This thing is a holder for two power cords - the original one of the Ultimaker psu, and another (thicker) one of a second psu. The holder is meant to be mounted on the back panel of the machine.

Additional holder can be found [here](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60349).

Turbines have awesome power in a small package. This one spins up to 60,000 rpm using the airflow of a standard vacuum cleaner, sounds like a 747 taking off, produces amazing power, and sucks up its own dust!

This is an opportunity for someone to make a successful product. I have no commercial interest, and would be delighted if anybody developed it further. A good start would be to source a batch of shafts and spacers for people to experiment with.

The spinning top is an simpler project, also there is a small hand-held turbine rotor just for fun.

Although I really like the H3 design, I had issues with the gears. They made quite a bit of noise during reverse moves, probably because they don't fit perfectly. Also the gears are a different ratio than the stock gears (9/47). So I replaced them with an involute gearset that has the same ratio as stock (8/49) which has the benefit that you can keep the e steps the same. Also this means the motor will keep the original torque.

for a video see youtube.com/watch?v=XvUsqFo-yYY

Pixoxos a tangible printer of digital things collected form the net.

Tweet "pixoxos" and I'll post your best tweets ;p

This project is a tangible printer for normally non-tactile things like: tweets, meeting appointments, facebook mentions or images etc. Practically anything you can think of that will fit on the a thermal receipt.

Web : scottmayson.com/Pixoxos-Printer
Video: vimeo.com/51895465
Images: tinyurl.com/8k6dnvg
Featured: adafruit.com/blog/2012/10/25/pixoxos-design-for-adafruit-iot-printer-project-3dthursday/

The standard pin of chopmeister's H3 Extruder often came loose and then fall of so the whole UM Spiked Bolt assembly came out of its slot. This lockable clip solves that issue.

Modification of the origonal ultimaker feet, with ribs for better vibration absorbtion. Print with flexible PLA for even better effect.

noise dampening feet for Ultimaker and Replicator

This thing upgrades chopmeister's H3 extruder (thing ID 27626) in way that you can mount it securely onto the backside of the Ultimaker via two standard hex screws. It also gives are more professional look as it hides the slots of the back panel.

Love to make home-made pasta, but my by-hand fettuccine cutting skills are lacking... especially after a Chianti or three.

This simple cutter makes perfect 6mm ribbons out of previously rolled out pasta dough.

The trouble with 3D printing a ball bearing is that spheres don't adhere to the 45 degree rule, so they tend to print poorly, or if metal balls are used instead, then the bearing requires assembly. This is a new kind of bearing that can only be manufactured by 3D printing and comes preassembled.

It is a planetary gearset and functions like a cross between a needle bearing and a thrust bearing. No cage is required to keep the rollers in place, because their gearing keeps them perfectly spaced. The gears are all herringbone, which is why it cannot be disassembled and also why it can act as a thrust bearing. If you're wondering how well a 3D printed bearing could work under load, please check out my video: youtu.be/ZghwSBiM0sU

This design is fully parametric and made to be adjusted in the Customizer app to whatever you need. Thanks to aubenc for finding a problem in the first version.

This thing is an improved bowden clip for chopmeister's excellent H3 extruder for Ultimaker.

I found that the original version of the clip is too thin and easily to break if the bowden tube is removed at times. So I made this new version which is a bit thicker and more durable.

This setup is currently printing at 20 micron layers ;p

This is Mk2 redesigned Ultimaker extruder. It employs a MakerBot Mk6 drive gear over the 2nd gen bolt from Ultimaker.

NEW Video youtube.com/watch?v=AVYZFMKugZU

youtube.com/watch?v=b9pbe6IZs0Y
youtu.be/U3Rnok5LT00 &

youtube.com/watch?v=kgwDqOj5i4E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Now works with Bowden Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:17027

A simple set of filament reel rollers small enough to fit in your pocket, but big enough to do the job.

OpenSCAD was used to model the reel roller, and the design drivers are:

Use the least amount of non printable hardware as possible.
Easy to set up and put away, as working space is limited.
Small enough to drop in a box for storage and transportation.
To fit any size spool.
All the parts available on Ebay.

I wanted a larger meatier gnocchi board, so I threw a simple one together in OpenSCAD. I was inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:21453.

This is a frame to mount multiple extruder motors to older style ultimakers that only have place for one. The electronics can handle two hot ends, and so can the flying head, but there was only room for one extruder motor. This frame solves that problem by allowing four (why stop at two?).

Alternate fan duct that allows the fan to be placed a little further away from the build platform.

Printing in the middle of the night requires a well thought-out strategy and timesaving operations.

The belts on my Ultimaker badly needed some more tension, but I did not had the time to print one of the brilliant designs, available from Thingiverse.

I sneaked into the childrens room and sto..., well, borrowed some Lego parts for the 30 seconds Ultimaker belt tensioner.

The Lyman Filament Extruder is a machine that extrudes filament from pellets for use in a 3D Printer. It can extrude 1.75mm and 3mm filament with easy nozzle exchange. The material cost is about $250.

I found the card holder box thingiverse.com/thing:30592 and liked it very much. To faciliate card retrieval I mirrowed the opening in the front and added a lid that can be fastened with a rubber band easily. Also I increased the height of the holder a bit and reduced the thickness of the base area.

If you use different extruders, is a hassle to recalibrate your reprap each time you change the extruder. Therefore I decided to make my hobbet bolts much more precisely and reproducible.

To gain better hobbet bolts, you need the little bolt hobbit and a proxxon micromot 50 (with some adjustment you might also be able to use any other kind of dremel-like tool).

With the bolt hobbit, you can make a hobbet bolt with 32 teeth that are perfectly parallel, sharp and have the same dimensions. Furthermore it is easy to reproduce some identical bolts (that feed the exact same amount of filament per revolution to the hot end) so it is no longer necessary to recalibrate your firmware each time you change the extruder.

This thing is slightly inspired by the KNRLR found here: thingiverse.com/thing:21782 but made much more rigid and handyer to rotate the bolt (can probably be used for mass-production of hobbed bolts :) )

edit 1: Added IGES design file
edit 2: I just made the first >6hour print with the new bolt (it was a print with a large number of retractions - the worst situation for the filament feeding system) and it worked absolutely flawless! Printing speed was up to 70mm/s in this print (40mm/s average).
edit 3: people who print another machine-holder (as found in derivates for example) can now download the standalone lever-only stl file in order to not have to print the proxxon-holder too.

I modeled this on a surplus garage door opener gear set I used for a solar panel tracker system I built. youtube.com/watch?v=Xj-fqcNuqIk&context=C3a3cbd0ADOEgsToPDskKnJlu7Qa_3ZtIJa_xQ_wmG

I just wanted learn how to design worm gears in CAD. Even trickier than I imagined.

The worm has a 1/2" bore and holes for 0.125" Roll pins.

I think I am close but until I get my printer I won't know for sure.

This is a 3 extruder setup with a single hot-end combining nozzle, to 'mix' and blend coloured filament plastic or different materials on a RepRap or other 3D printer.


Also check out my blog at richrap.blogspot.com and

website at richrap.com

And Youtube Channel - youtube.com/user/RichRap2011

# NOTE thread the top M6 down enough to remove the 1/8 hole in the center of the part. Have had some plugging with ABS not PLA.

Revised drawings and parts soon.

This is the second version of my now reliable replacement PTFE part for the Ultimaker now in PEEK!

Video -
youtube.com/watch?v=xHSQwaZ8T0Y

Photo Set M6 Version - flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/sets/72157631203052900/

It's an extruder that uses a dremel bit instead of a hobbed bolt. The sharp edges of the dremel bit makes this extruder design very strong.

This part will solve bowden tube popping issues. If you've got access to a manual (or CNC) lathe or a CNC mill, you can make it. I show it with a hex, but that is optional and I only did it as I had a CNC mill handy and in that case it didn't matter if it was round or hex. Round works just as well though! It was designed with help from Joergen Geerds and he and I have tested them over several months with PLA and ABS with great success.

Drawings and everything are included in the Zip. the STL is useless but thingiverse makes a nice preview out of it.

A print head body for J-Head Mk V-B and a Minebea geared stepper motor. 215grams total weight.

Designed for my Delta Printer - Coming Soon.

I like many printed up belt tentioners from thingverse. Most worked fine but after a while they warped and got loose. I also had issues with them hitting the heads when they did get loose and wreck 12 hour print jobs.
These clips I designed use the existing belt tension design and add some height to the sides.

I used Emmett's rotating gear code from the heart gear, and mashed it up with the CT scanned skull. I tried a few orientations, I like this one the most because it splits down the middle of the face.

If you can't yet print, or don't want to for some reason, we'd be happy to print & ship it to you through our etsy! etsy.com/listing/104700095/skull-gift-3d-printed-rotating-skull