7 months ago i saw JohnA post up his makerbot XL conversion and was indeed impressed. But it still lacked something that we needed at our store "more heigth". So I stretched the Makerbot XL drawings to make it into a MakerBot XLT. However there was still one big hurdle weight. Due to the current design of the replicator 1 being made out of wood it would oscilate with the printer head due to its light construction. So we had all the parts machined out of stainless to increase durability and weight.

So here we are about a week from completion on revision for the conversion and the remaining parts are about to be here. All that is left is the Z axis drive rod and z axis guide rods.

This conversion increases the z axis build height to 40" .

We will post up the files once we have completed the conversion.

"Watch out for loose seal!"

Just in case you need one of these for a magic trick, you can "Seal-the-deal" with your 3D printer.

So you have opened your heart for this wonderful person. Now you can show him or her what is inside.
Here is the box to present your Valentines gift in style. The bottom and lid are bonded together so they'll never loose each other.

jfettigmachines.com/

Ever since I got my CNC lathe, I've been wanting to convert the other mini lathe that's sitting idle. The JFettig design is as non-invasive as it gets.

The parts are meant to be machined out of aluminum, but I think ABS will suffice for most light work. At the very least, it will give me a chance to test fit the conversion before commiting to geting metal parts made.

tired of "print -> measure -> adjust -> repeat" to calibrate the backlash of your axis? Here is the definite calibration piece: print once for each axis, no calipers required.

Backlash is an ugly truth. The Lash module in Skeinforge produces Gcode that's even uglier. It's default settings are more likely to confuse you than correct your print. But breaking backlash down, one axis at a time can start to teach you more about your printer's capabilities.

The Lash module might not be something you employ all the time, but understanding how you can use it to improve a print is certainly worth knowing.

Customizable soft jaws for a bench vise. The default values fit nicely on my 125mm grizzly bench vise. They stay in place without magnets. Once you've got the fit dialed in, it would probably be best to print with fairly heavy fill.

Updated 2013-05-18: renamed parameters and added some comments and pictures to make customizing easier. Also adjusted the geometry to make previewing better.

Size as needed. (I think it defaults to "Galactus" size)

Tired of finding trying to find the hole that feels just right on your watchband? Hate having to tuck the loosely hung extra fabric away after fastening your watch only to have it pop out of place again?


Meet CLASP, the printable watchband sized perfectly for your wrist and watch. Make fiddling with tiny holes and little sticks a thing of the past! CLASP is the no fuss, print to fit watch band that makes putting on your watch a breeze!

Overkill extruder...
Maximum traction provided.

Just a digital experiment yet..
using parts from LoialOtters NerfTank

get a animation here:
youtube.com/watch?v=fTwA5jwvxY0

I had requests to design some roses. Enjoy.

This set of functional mechanical fingers was developed by Robohand

To learn more about our project, please go to:
[http://makerbot.com/robohand](http://makerbot.com/robohand)
[http://robohand.blogspot.com/](http://robohand.blogspot.com/)
[http://www.facebook.com/pages/Robohand/260864887366912?ref=ts&fref=ts](http://www.facebook.com/pages/Robohand/260864887366912?ref=ts&fref=ts)
or watch the [video](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT3772yhr0o)

I printed the "Printrbot LC and LC+: Y Bearing Guide for GT2 32 teeth pulleys" by gyronictonic, and had to make a modification to the end as it hit the zip ties that are used to hold the Y-Bearings (picture of printed part is the original with the sanded end)

This derivative shortens the end so you do not need to sand it down. The center clearance for the pulley is also made larger to 15mm in the derivative.

Credit Where Credit is Due:
I have to say the original design is a great concept and give all the credit to Gyronictonic.

I searched the Thingiverse for a simple hinged box that was parametric and printed all in one piece. I couldn't find one. I did find some really neat parametric boxes and lids though. I used none of their OpenSCAD code for this.

I've printed probably a dozen one piece boxes with hinge during my testing. I wanted a tight hinge that would reliably print and NOT fuse together. During my testing I experimented with different speeds, temps, and tolerance values in my SCAD files. The attached OpenSCAD files prints reliably on my printer. The resulting hinge is a bit loose but it reliably does not fuse. Changing the tolerance by .1 does make a much tighter hinge, but sometimes I could not break it free. YMMV.

Na na na na na na na na na na Batman....

Following the success of the Giant Lego Darth Vader - the natural successor was this... Batman!

This is an add-on to zMorph 3d printer allowing you to mount a dremel on standard zMorph carriage and use it as a small milling machine.

video :
youtube.com/watch?v=HU-7-TkBINA&feature=youtu.be

I don't know, there's just something about a good ol fashioned gunny sack.

I tried adding textures, but ended up liking the smooth one best. In part, I think, because Slic3r 0.9.7 seems to be a major improvement and the surface is just perfect.

I was also hoping that the nylon these were printed with would make it flexible enough so I could open the top, but that didn't quite work. Need to try a smooth one with a single perimeter next.

SplatBag was an earlier version that I think I may still prefer.

Update 12/2/12 - I just added another "splatbag" that is larger and smoother than the small, unsmooth one. Enjoy!

1/26/13 - Currently available for sale at the 3DEA/Openhouse Gallery in NYC along with several of my other designs (and more awesome objects by others)! If you want one, don't have a printer, and are in New York, now's your chance. The store will be open through February 17. :D
3dea.openhouse.me/3dea/

This socket is suitable for connect a 16 pin photomultiplier M12FS35. This tube doesn't heat up as it is cold cathode. The contacts are inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:77271 Molex 08-50-0106. After connecting the wire to the contact position place it in the housing with help of a hot solder iron and a screw driver in the main hole. This way the contact slide down and is fixed in place.

VertiBOT is an educational project to investigate and understand sensor fusion using kalman and complementary filter algorithm and PID control in an unstable system.

VertiBOT is an inverted pendulum platform that remains balanced by means of two tiny motors, located in the bottom of the structure. The battery is attached in the top of the main body, while the electronics board is located near the rotation axis.
The feedback signal is provided by an IMU 6Dof composed by an accelerometer and a gyro. One ATmega 328 microcontroller execute the main loop every 10 milliseconds. A wireless communication over bluetooth is used to tune and check the signal response in a Graphical User Interface software.

Video: youtu.be/A5KtT4GVpx8
Useful info, schematic and code available: wp.me/p22sj0-fT

I needed a 3D model to make it easier to do mods to my Tom.

I have used the DXF files provided by Makerbot. I have added som screws and nuts here and there and some other stuff but this should be considered a WIP which is not complete and should be used as such.

It is my new Mechanical Excavators V2 with more parts and more style.
You can download the Zip file in one time or each parts separately.

ENG:
Need to charge the smartphone in any plug?t, here's an ingenious solution
EUS:
Telefonoa edozein entxufetan kargatzeko soporte bat behar dezu, ea hemen aukera bat
ESP:
Soporte en le que podrás cargar el móvil en cualquier enchufe.

So I purchased this 35oz jar of honey and realized I had no cute way to put it into a drink. In my case I am trying honey in coffee, yeah for real. Anyhow I decided I needed a honey dipper and did not feel like going to the store for one. My first incarnation copied the traditional format of a stack of disks but that proved hard to print and was a mess using the support material on the Rep 2. So I worked this up in SolidWorks instead. Don't put it in the dishwasher! Enjoy!

The title says it all ;-)

First off, thanks to Airtripper for a great compact extruder design!

This is my J-tripper -- a remix to the Airtripper design to allow for DIRECT mounting of a J-head (or similarlly slotted hot end) to the bottom of the Airtripper direct-drive extruder. I made this design to replace the finicky parts that I encountered on the Mk 7 / QUBD extruder designs.

I built mine using a Makerbot MK7 Drive Gear.

Visit airtripper.com/?p=367 for extruder body build details.

Once the extruder body is assembled and mounted to the stepper motor (as in Airtripper's instructions), simply slide the J-head hot-end into the bottom slot.

I consider this version "Beta" as I have only been using it for a few days. But it seems reliable so far, so I'm releasing it to the public. As the design is proven and updated to the Airtripper V3 core, I will also release the OpenSCAD file.

This is the reference extruder design for the F3 CubeMax (come see us at MakerFaire San Mateo 2013).

An experiment intended to reduce Z wobble in prusa i2 printers.

The holes are deliberately sized to fit perfectly straight off the bed. The holes in the wings should allow an M3 screw to slide through without much resistance but also without much play, the holes in the centerpiece should be super tight so you can actually cut a thread by driving the M3 screw in.

The motor shaft has a single nut trap for the flat, the threaded rod has 3 nut traps in case some alignment is needed.

8x M3x10 or M3x15 screws and 4x M3 nuts are required for each Universal Joint.

good to leveled

This was designed for and tested on a Rostock MAX from SeeMeCNC, but should work with most Rostock style effector platforms.

A Math Surface manipulation technique that gets me both excited and Nervous.. o_O

Note the intersections of both outer and inner cells structures by a way that imitate natural cells bonding.



Size: 150x150x130mm
Wall thickness: 2~5mm

3D Print it with White PLA or ABS or use high quality 3d printing services for White Nylon.


Enjoy,
3Dizingof.com !

When Odysseus meet the Ninjago they live great stories !
Printing with 0.1 layer, support material and cooling fan.