Printable version of blddk's great idea.

Prusa Mendel x carriage using 4 lm8uu linear bearings in screw-fastened holders for easy (dis-)assembly. No zipties, no fragile and imprecise snap-in-brackets.

I didn't like the snap-fit bearing holders in Greg Frosts's x carriage for the same reason why jonaskuehling made the slim LM8UU holder derivate. So I modified Greg's carriage and integrated the new bearing holders for an easy-to-disassemble x carriage.

I attached the OpenSCAD files including Greg's configuration for some variables and Jonas' lm8uu-holder. I tidied up the source code a bit, but there are still some unnecessary lines left over from greg's code. The code is not overly clean and parametric due to the lack of time.

UPDATE 31.01.2012
- Reattached Greg's fan mount to the carriage. I updated the OpenSCAD file and added another STL.

UPDATE 03.02.2012
- One linear bearing could not slide into its bracket since the fan mount was blocking the path. I cut away a little clearance.
Not the smartest solution, but quick and functional.

Takes 3 LM8UU bearings.

Comes with an integrated belt tensioning system (see red carriage).

Has integrated slots for cable-ties to get a really firm grip on those bearings.

Fan mount is an option in the scad file if you don't want it.

Works great with one of my extuders mounted at an angle to maximise x travel.

This guide is for Windows Users.

I am growing to love OpenSCAD as a creative tool for 3D design but I do find that it's text editor lacks many of the basic features that I appreciate when writing code... Namely:

Auto-Completion
Syntax Highlighting
Collapsible Outline levels
Line Numbering
Automatic Tabbing
Search and Replace
Block Tabbing using the tab key.

I was pleased to discover however that you don't need to put up with the standard text editor. There is a feature that allows you to conveniently use the text editor of your choice with OpenSCAD. My editor of choice is Notepad++ a fast well featured open source text editor. You can download it from notepad-plus-plus.org/

Notepad++ supports many different programming languages but not unfortunately OpenSCAD. It does however have the facility that allows you to create your own language file which I have included here.

This is definitely a work in progress as I have had to make a few compromises due to the limitations of Notepad++'s language editor. I dare say other more experienced coders opinions will differ as to how best to syntax code the OpenSCAD language.

I am currently working on adding auto-complete functionality to notepad++ as we speak. I have included a working though not complete file called openscad_removethisbitandcopy.xml. Currently most if not all functions will auto-complete, what is going to take me longer is adding call-tips to all the functions which would be nice though is not critical.

I got a little carried away making a winder for my new earphones.

Designed these for my daughter for Christmas for the small "polly pocket" sized dolls she loves to play with.

Became very tired of needing two tools to adjust elevation of bed corners. These bind trapped nuts to the bottom sheet so that you can simply turn the bolts on top of the bed to level it.

I am upgrading the build platform on my Prusa and liked the thumbwheels from HBP Quick Leveler Redux, but I needed some to fit M4 nuts. So I decided to write a parametric OpenSCAD script to make thumbwheels of any size. The included stl is for an M4 nut.

The Polyalphabetic Substitution Cipher Slide Rule. This is a slide rule to assist with the ciphering and deciphering of polyalphabetically enciphered messages. With it, you can learn a bit about how slide rules work and a bit about crypto at the same time! It also has some added features that let you begin exploring strong crypto.

This version is for 1/8" thick acrylic, rather than 1/4", and half the height. A single 12"x12" stock will get you two complete nave sections, i.e. eight times the Gothy goodness of the original.

Isn't multiplication fun?

Box-o-tron 1.0

Python box creator

Now with extra Awesome. boxotron now includes, command line interface and stored config files.

Does tab and slot and "Cupcake" style T joins
Usage: boxotron.py [options]

Options:
-h, --help show this help message and exit
-l LENGTH, --length=LENGTH
Length of box in mm
-w WIDTH, --width=WIDTH
width of box in mm
-d DEPTH, --depth=DEPTH
depth of box in mm
-t THICKNESS, --thickness=THICKNESS
thickness of material in mm
-c CLEARANCE, --clearance=CLEARANCE
clearance between panels of material in mm
-i INSET, --inset=INSET
inset to middle of slot material in mm
-s SLOT_LENGTH, --slot_length=SLOT_LENGTH
length of slot in mm
-f FILENAME, --file_name=FILENAME
file_name
-j JOIN_EVERY, --join_every=JOIN_EVERY
join every x in mm
--type=TYPE box type = slot , bolt
-b BOLT, --bolt_size=BOLT
bolt size in mm
--bolt_length=BOLT_LENGTH
bolt length in mm
--bolt_clearance=BOLT_TAB_CLEARANCE
clearance between bolt and tab , multiple of bolt size
--nut_multiplier=NUT_MULTIPLIER
nut size - multiple of bolt size
--nut_depth=NUT_DEPTH
nut depth - multiple of bolt size


(hint , specify a non-existent file name and it will make a default one of that name )

A rebuild version of the Plywood Crate made by Joris van Tubergen.
thingiverse.com/thing:1512

I made it so that the parts can be clicked together into a box, it also is stackable, you can build a tower of these.
The source file is for a lower sized version of the box. You can modify the file to fit the size you need.

Material used: 3mm plywood

This is a simple design for a parametric lasercut desktop filing rack in OpenSCAD.

This is a Laser Cut Lamp that I designed. I made the Globe by RickLaser and shined a light through it which looked cool so decided to make something similar but in a lamp form.

I designed this just before a lazy Sunday afternoon/night of drinking for a friends birthday and when I got home the design felt like it was burning a hole in my Mac, so I just had to go cut it. I ended up finishing it at about 2am Monday morning and hence I only have iPhone pics.

As I have only taken a few quick pics from my iPhone I will add some better pics on sharemake.com under the laser cutting group.

Checkout a the full build story at sharemake.com/groups/laser-cutters/forum/topic/globe-lamp-house-warming-present/

I hope you like it.

I wanted a nice looking, enclosed and reliable 3D printer with great build quality and large envelope. The result: Part-Y!

The frame consists of L-shaped aluminium profiles, covered in clear plexiglass with vinyldecals designed by my sister. The printer is completely enclosed with charcoal filters on the air outlet to get rid of fumes.

All axes are constructed with high quality professional linear guides. The z axis was originally designed with rods and linear bearings, but I bought the cheapest bearings on ebay and the quality was really bad.

The extruder is a Makerbot mk7 for 1.75mm filament, choosen for it's compact size, high reliability and great precision.

Current build envelope is limited by the area of the heated bed to 210x210x200 mm, the x and y axes are however capable of 240mm movement.

Print-Y is controlled by a Sanguinololu and powered by an internal 400W PSU.

I'll add more details with BOM aso later if someone is interested.

Bad quality video: youtube.com/watch?v=qF7fGArkb1c

Official Write-Up at protoparadigm.com/2011/12/abs-glue-weld-cast-texture-and-more/

Here's something that should make plastic life a lot easier. Fuse parts, smooth, shine and texture prints, even cast ABS at room temperature.

20mm Plastic T-Slot - Rev 2
Completely redesigned; the new beam prints faster and is stronger both against deflection and torsion.

UPDATE: Added DXF of Profiles. Naming convention is [dimensions]-[bolt size]-[Wall Thickness]-[Multiplier]. We are starting to prefer 1pt6 (1.6) wall thickness profiles and find printing them No Infill, 1 Extra Loop, No solid Layers, with a trace thickness of .8mm results in a quick and adequetly strong beam.

These beams are being designed as the main structural component for a 3d printer though arguably they are of more use as a general hobby framing and mounting set. That said they are designed with both printing and commercial extrusion in mind.

If printed in ABS, they can be solvent welded with the aid of a T-Slot Welding Jig thingiverse.com/thing:13598 and ABS Glue thingiverse.com/thing:14490 . A center hole increases the beams second moment of inertia while aiding in fusing beams.

PLA beams are more rigid though they are not as easy to fuse into various lengths.

Hardware
An example of Friction Fit hardware is located -
Here - thingiverse.com/thing:9797
& Here - thingiverse.com/thing:13599

The standard beam profile is meant to accommodate both M3 hardware as well as 6-32 nuts and bolts. Both bolt heads or nuts will fit in the slot with an insert provided to help guide and captive M3 nuts. 6-32 Nuts will captive natively.

Alternative profiles are provided for M4 / 8-32 hardware as well as dedicated M3 and 6-32. All profiles are located in "20mm Profiles - Printing.skp" Use the 'Push/Pull' tool to create a profile of the desired length.

If the printing instructions are followed, these beams can be printed fast (going at even a moderate pace we're able to produce all the beams needed for a Prusa in under 12 hours). While the beams can technically be printing with any working profile, they will not print as quickly and may not perform as intended structurally.

Files
100mm Beam.stl - actual height is 101mm to allow for loss during welding
20mm Test Beam.stl - shorter for testing settings
M3 Nut Insert.stl - use with metric hardware
20mm Profile-Printing.skp - profile faces for printing and creating different heights
20mm Profile-True.skp - diagram of a properly printed profile
20mm Profile-Printing-pt4.skp - profiles based on 0.4mm widths, contains a M5 profile
M3 Nut Insert.skp - source file for insert

Check Back For
T-slot Profiles for Thing-O-Matic, Ultimaker & Mosaic at various resolutions, speeds.
OpenScad version to ease design of compatible hardware and accessories.

i wanted something to put my printer in so i build it a flightcase
things i wanted:
- it had to look cool, so no square box
- it had to be able to print, both open and closed
- L shaped, so i could add a spool holder
- windows to see it print
- less than 1/2 sheet wood (flightcase wood is very expensive, and most vendors will sell you a 4ft by 4ft sheet)

all in all, flightcases aren't cheap, and mine came out at 180€ with everything
there are 2 good flightcase suppliers (adam hall and penn) about 98% of all flightcases i see at my job are from one or the other
on this one i used adam hall material, so i'll provide you a part list from them

There’s nothing like housing your modern technology in the façade of old technology. This is a small laser cut box that can hold up to 8 full-sized SD flash cards. There is a small living spring that will hold the lid shut when it’s bouncing around in your bag. You can open the box from either side.

With Christmas coming up, this would make great easy to make gift. I know I’ll be making a set of them.

This holder is the second generation of a SD card box, the original version was not nearly as much fun.

Sometimes your co-worker says"I'll do that when I get around to it." That's when you need this. It is a round token with the word "Tuit" on it. The next time someone says that to you just hand them this and say "Here is a Round Tuit for you then."

One Box with one hinge and a second box with two hinges

This is a small stand for the Arduino UNO for testing code and/or connecting to senors and other projects.

Happy Movember!! Made this last year but hadn't gotten around to posting it.

Desktop pencil cup made from interwoven spirals
or
Candle holder made from interwoven spirals
or
Toothbrush holder made from interwoven spirals
or
... made from interwoven spirals

Update:
I had it printed in ceramic to see what the quality would be like, I'm happy with the results - in ABS and ceramic.

This is a hybrid project. The drawers are 3D printed and the cabinet is cut on a table saw (or a laser/cnc router)

The goal of this project was to develop a low cost, open source inkjet printer utilizing standard inkjet technology, for personal use. This project was partly in response to the fact that there are no DIY inkjet kits available. There was a kit available from Parallax parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf. This kit is no longer made and the book amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930 that was written to use that kit is now out of print.
The prototype design used a carriage assembly constructed from steel rods that were assembled using connectors that can be printed on an FDM machine. The entire carriage system is driven along the x-axis by a belt attached to a stepper motor. The print cartridge, taken from an HP point of sale printer, is driven along the y-axis by another stepper motor belt drive. The electronic controls use an Arduino Mega to run all of the printing systems.
The design resulted in a working prototype that fulfills all of the design constraints. The rod frame carriage design is lightweight, easy to assemble and easy to integrate with the other systems. The Arduino used in the electronics has a large library of resources available to perform things like LCD, SD card, and stepper control.
Areas where future work should be focused include making molds and casting printable parts to bring down the overall cost, developing host side software, and optimizing the speed.

There is a video of this working here: youtube.com/watch?v=fYeYeTGkvJM
There are additional pictures here: flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626730985822/

This was a group project involving:
Patrick Hannan
Jared Knutzen
Nicholas C Lewis
Joy Markham