I liked Spacexula's thingiverse.com/thing:3473 but I thought it would work better if it had more angular momentum. So I threw this together from a parametric button (the haberdashery kind) I made earlier. It works pretty well so I thought I'd share.

Here are some miscellaneous toolholders that can be scaled to fit practically any tool.

I was in the market for something like this myself, and was looking around searching for toolholders. The problem however is that there ar alot more different sized tools than there are toolholders that match, so then you end up with something that just looks awful and doesnt fit 100% to anything.

So regarding this project the goal was to make many different shaped toolholders that could easily be customized to fit any tool.

And again a big thanks to the makerbot crew for the plastic that made this:)


(Just an FYI - Everyone of my toolholders are printed on my full size makerbottable makerbot thingiverse.com/thing:3285)

Simple parametric object that can be used as a probe holder. Parameters to the module are
- number of probes to hold (4 probes by default)
- height of the holder (20mm by default)

This is an alternative extruder hot-end design for the makerbot, though it may work for other 3d printers as well.

The big advantage is that it does not require an insulator (usually PTFE or PEEK), which causes problems for some (or perhaps many). Instead, a stack of washers and nuts is used as a heatsink to reduce the temperature.

It worked really, really well for me, no more stalled extruders, stuck filaments, half-way prints. It heats up rapidly less than 1 minute from 25 to 220 degC), and I haven't had any problems with it (yet..).
I've only printed ABS so far, so I have no idea if it will work with other materials.

My original version used an aluminum heatsink (bottom image), but I thought that might be a bit hard for others to duplicate, so I built this one. Works just as well, just looks a little less fancy.

You'll need a small fan, stainless steel M6 bolt as well as a stack of M6 nuts and 25mm M6 fender washers in addition to asome components from a standard makerbot extruder.

This is a chess set that I designed for my dad for his birthday this year.

My dad taught me how to make, create, design, build, program, and solder from a young age. This year I finally remembered that parents don't like their children to buy them expensive things, they like their children to build them things. And you could end up making the worst looking thing ever, but they'll love it, just because you made it.

Happy birthday dad.

The Helping M is a very portable clamp to help you hold in components during soldering jobs.

I started on this _after_ hand-soldering the 52 SMT components for the HBP :-P

1. There is no need to bend the component wires to hold in the component during soldering
2. Adapts to different sizes of circuit boards: Max about 7 to 8 inches wide
3. With some velco, interchangeable heads allow usage for capacitors, resistors, ICs
4. Once mounted, The Helping M is able to move laterally to press on different components
5. The Helping M slides up and down your board easily too
6. The Helping M also serves as a prop when you flip the circuit board around, to position the board in the right position to solder easily

MakerBot Defender
CodeName - MD-B12

My Makerbot CNC aka "DemonDust" is the Queen ant, and a Queen ant produces the soldiers on the "front line". The Makerbot Defender is designed and built to protect as a soldier, just as in nature a soldier ant protects a well structured colony all working as one unstoppable force.

UPDATED PARTS - 5/10/2010
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftElbow_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftShoulderBolt_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_RightArmJointConnector_v3
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftHandJointConnector_v2

These upgraded parts solve loose joint issues and strengthens moving parts

Features :

This version is made from ABS plastic built on a heated platform.

Version #1 tank treads are hard to move, but moveable. Upgrades are being designed and will soon follow

The mounted cannon is for defense purposes only. Launching non-lethal smoke prejectiles to create smoke cover to confuse and slow invaders

Infrared camera is mount on the shoulder helping to watch over the Queen for temperture accuracy

Every soldier in nature is equipped with a strong pair of claws. These arms can move over 180 degrees front to back with claws that can be opened and held in any position. Upgrades are being designed for the next
version of arms/claws


Upgrades :

One of the best pre-designed ideas for the MakerBot Defender,it is upgradeable. The mounted cannon and Infrared camera just slide right out of the main body panel. Making it possible to design anything and replace existing features.


Scale:

Rough measurements
7"(wide) x 8.5"(deep) x 7"(tall)

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.

A gripper compatible with a mini servo I used the Topline ES-05 JR, I milled it with a 3-axis cnc machine but its also printable. Made of 4mm hardboard.

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=7CUNx4kPw6w

For more pictures and info:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/my-mini-servo-grippers-and-completed-robotic-arm/

A small desk clamp.

Works but it requires a little more super glue than I would have liked.

It was designed to be a PCB holder (the one Lady Ada uses in her instructions was the inspiration).

ladyada.net/images/usbtinyisp/tools.jpg

The base is too small making it unstable.

However I just finished printing it and it works!

To make it you will also need.

3/8 (5mm will do as well) threaded rod and some square nuts.
Square brass tubing ( 3.9 mm ) and the size that fits just inside that.

Needs some more work:

Bigger base , maybe multipart
Better way to hold the clamps

The tar file contains the blend , photos and all the stl files.

I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.

This is an LCD and keypad control panel for controlling a Reprap Motherboard based fabber like the MakerBot CupcakeCNC. With this you will be able to use your fabber without needing to attach it to a computer. You can set heater temperatures, move and zero the axes and print .s3g and .gcode files directly from the SD card. The LCD will show you continuous temperature readings, position, and build progress.

I've hacked several toy tanks but always wanted to me able to make my own tank treads for robotics projects.

I played around with several different models but couldn't find much to go on other than picture and diagrams.

I've built in some play and made sure the links should print on a makerbot without any problems (minimum overhang).

MMMMM Cupcakes! Ever wonder how the one armed man eats cupcakes? Now's your chance to find out, see my design for a prosthetic 'hand'. With a Cupcake CNC printer you can make your own prosthetic hand to practice eating cupcakes, dress up for Halloween, scare your mother or as I had envisioned provide prostheses to areas affective by war, disease, natural disasters or the like. Using a Cupcake CNC printer and a basic hand and wrist design will allow for inexpensive production in areas with little resources. The fact that the printer is portable and affordable allows for someone like myself (a prosthetic technician) to travel to places like Haiti and make be low elbow prothesis on the spot for victims. The opportunities to assist people with low cost prosthesis are endless with the Cupcake CNC printer!!!
And if you don't know an amputee or don't want to scare your mother this design can be used as an in home grabber for hard to reach shelves (I just make my gorgeous tall wife do it for me) or as claws for your robot army as they take over the world. As you can see something for the bleeding hearts and the hearts taking over the world, something for everyone!

A quadrisection of a sphere into four identical parts with some novel attributes:

1. The parts have no overhangs.
2. The flat 'bottom' is completely concealed after assembly; there are no flat spots on the exterior of the sphere.
3. Exterior is made entirely of 'sidewalls' where the resolution of FDM really shines.

My test samples were built in transparent PVC on a Solido SD300 Pro, but my goal was to design a Makerbot-friendly shape. Based on feedback from friends, I've adjusted the contours so the pieces 'grab' onto each other after assembly.

More pictures and discussion at my SD300 blog entry at mysd300.blogspot.com/2010/05/novel-decompositions-of-sphere.html

NOT FINISHED YET!

Here is a concept lower profile x-y carriage. It will add about 26mm of height to your build space and is setup to accept both the makerbot upper y platform and heated platform and the Makergear heated platform. It has a leveling upper platform mount so you can get rid of your little shims and things you use to level your platform.

I am still working on how the belts connect to the different carriage parts and I thought some folks might have some comments/ suggestions.

Currently it will use the components that came with the Makerbot kit except for one 40mm M3 screw that you would have to go out and get.

The files are in Solidworks but for free software fun I transferred it to sketchup. Shout if you want the solidworks version (it is a mess though... really)

Update: I am waiting until Makerbot releases the platform conveyer belt that Charles Pax was working on (saw it in person, it was really cool!) Then I plan on designing the lowrider around that.

I just uploaded a bunch of different file formats including the solidworks file (Watch out, it's a mess - if you scroll up in the history you'll find an entirely different design, and I meant entirely.)

Thanks to JP for a nice model of the board. still trying to load the files correctly. Not sure what im doin yet. The board fits in the bottom of the case and lines up on pegs that fit the holes on the arduino. The top has tabs that keep it from moving around once clamped down. Still learning sketchup and im sure theres several mistakes but this sure is fun.Ant ideas for improvement would help. Thanks

This is a first pass at the plastic parts for Squito-style muscle wire actuated robot. It is BIG for a muscle wire bot and I haven't worked out all of the forces yet. Latter versions will probably have lightening holes and may be scaled down.

The pivot group is designed for the Makerbot Cupcake CNC and is entered in the current Make contest. The horizontal pin holes will still need to be drilled.

The rest of the bot can be cut using a small CNC router.

The model is in SketchUp. I plan to export STL files to FreeMill to create the G-code.

This is a first pass done mostly to improve SketchUp skils. Feel free to comment or improve.

In the spirit of Open Source Hardware, Dremelfuge is now Open Source Hardware, according to the 0.3 standard found here: freedomdefined.org/OSHW

DremelFuge is a printable rotor for centrifuging standard microcentrifuge tubes and miniprep columns. Compared to the cost of a new centrifuge (priced by a fellow Thingiversian at $500 minimum on Froogle), a Dremelfuge is incredibly cheap. It can be used for DIYbio ( diybio.org ) or for some culinary uses. It requires industry standard 1.5ml/2ml Eppendorf/Microcentrifuge tubes.

* Used with a drill at 3000 RPM, the Dremelfuge will deliver over 400g, enough to comfortably spin down Miniprep samples (proven personally). It will likely achieve acceptable results at lower speeds, too.
* Used at 10krpm, on a Rotary tool for instance, a Dremelfuge should deliver over 4400g, more than enough to spin down bacterial cells.
* At 16krpm, Dremelfuge matches commercial centrifuges.
* On a Dremel 300, a maximum speed of 33krpm equates to a force of over 50,000 times earth's gravity, which puts it into so-called "Ultracentrifuge" territory. The latest version (as printed by Shapeways) has successfully spun tubes at this speed.

To see some picures of Dremelfuge used to spin down cells, see here:
letters.cunningprojects.com/?p=85

Quick Video Intro to Dremelfuge: youtube.com/watch?v=86WnXeTZO_Y
(Update: This video hit over 1900 views! Thanks Makezine/Bre!)

A video of me using Dremelfuge practically in a tent, to extract DNA from a banana: youtube.com/watch?v=ZnyFwupk5KA

Dremelfuge is available for sale as a high-quality, robust print on Shapeways.com in two editions, each suited for up to six samples at a time: Dremelfuge Recessed Edition, to fit the cutting-tool-holder commonly found with rotary tools (5mm diameter bore), and Dremelfuge Chuck Edition, which can be quickly adapted for use in any machine with a chuck grip. They are both available here on my Shapeways shop:
shapeways.com/shops/labsfromfabs

Dremelfuge, as with any high-speed rotary tool, may cause personal harm or damage to property or persons in case of failure, and no guarantee, warranty, promise or suggestion of safety is made or offered by me (Cathal Garvey) with regard to DremelFuge.

Dremelfuge featured on Makezine:
blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/12/laboratory_centrifuge_attachment_fo.html

Please let me know if Dremelfuge is of use to you! Please upload pictures of any printed Dremelfuges in the wild! :)

== License Stuff ==
DremelFuge makes use of the Shapes.scad script kindly released by Catarina Mota, which is released under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation. Many thanks to Catarina for this great workhorse script, as well as for letting me sidestep the "Inheritence Clause" of the license.

DremelFuge itself is released under an Attribution, Sharealike License. It's already available on Shapeways, and you're entitled to print it for yourself or someone else for free if you have a printer handy. As a personal favour, don't go undercutting me on Shapeways please, unless you have a significantly better version. And don't call it "Dremelfuge" if you do.

This is Thing-a-Week #4, previous things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This is a small pan and tilt servo system for the Logitech C600 webcam.
It is designed for two Hitec HS-81 Servos

Wood screws may be useful to hold the 3D printed parts together.
iheartrobotics.com/2010/01/fastners-for-3d-printing-screw-it-well.html

I have been having trouble with the plastruder motor stripping out the
filament. Here i\'s my take on an upgrade.

There are three points of contact between the gearing and the
filament, so no one spot should strip. All of the gearing is moving in
sync.
I did try holding the filament in some pliers while the motor was
running and the filament broke by the pliers. I am slightly concerned
that if for any reason my heater stops and the motor is still running,
it will break my heater.

Currently this is setup to move slower than the standard printruder
mark 4 (I am trying to print really thin layers and the other one was
too fast) but I can reformulate it to go faster.
Next steps:

Make mounting supports:
thingiverse.com/thing:2435

Test pull force of gearbox (I just ordered a 110lb fish scale, dumb
thing is not supposed to get here until the 21st. If anyone has a fish
scale in Boston and they would like to loan it to me, please give me a
shout!)

I am also thinking of putting in a spring powered emergency disconnect
in the gearing right by the motor that I can dial in how much force
this will exert.

Anybody have any advice?

Thanks,
Aaron Double


UPDATE:

It is done now :D

I got my fish scale and ran two pull tests with ABS. In both tests the filament broke where it was tied, not at the motor.

First test: 48lbf 213.5N
Second test: 47lbf 209N

I have done one test with PLA, it went to 62lbf - 275.8N! then the filament snapped by where it was tied to the scale. The filament still has not stripped out yet! The image of the PLA running through the gearing was taken after the filament snapped where it was tied, same for the detail shot of the PLA.


This was tested with 2.8mm diameter filament that was purchased by MakerBot. Rick over at Makergear mentioned that he has been seeing filament as large as 3.1mm diameter going around. I don not have any, so I can not test that. I do not think it would be a problem, it just means that the filament will have larger teeth marks.

One of the nice things about this design is that you do not have to set the pressure on anything, just drop the shafts with the gearing and bearings in and you are done. The spacing is set in the stl file.

Does anyone know a better way to attach the filament to the fish scale? I still do not know how strong this is.

All and all I am happy. Stl files are updated.

Update 2:

I went down to visit the Botcave and met the makerbot folks (they are pretty cool and mellow, the only thing that I did not expect was how tall Bre is.) The important thing is they happily let me play with their force test rig! thingiverse.com/thing:3198

I only did ABS because of time constraints, and after the sixth test I decided to change how the drive was mounted to the rig. After remounting the drive and cleaning it, I ran 22 tests without cleaning it in between!

Here are the 22 results in Newtons:

290.2N
272N
263N
278N
292.4N
268.8N
298.8N
288.6N
281.8N
267.8N
244N
281.8N
286.6N
238.2N
257.8N
287.8N
288.4N
280.2N
289.4N
283.2N
262.4N
276.4N

Which gives it an average of 276.5N WITHOUT CLEANING! I added an image of the drive taken apart after stripping it 22 times.

To put it lightly, I was very happy!

Here is my robotic arm made of 4mm hardboard with a 3-axis cnc, it is also printable. The servos are the most cheapest ones (TopLine standard servo RS 2 J/R and TopLine mini-servo ES-05 JR).

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=gfsLu1iuLRg

More about the electronics and other info at:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/08/17/multiply-the-robotic-arm-and-electronics/

About the mechanics:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/my-mini-servo-grippers-and-completed-robotic-arm/

single production-sheet to print Wade`s Geared NEMA17 extruder
with nopheads modified setscrew.

The required build-surface is 13x20cm.
Works fine on a RapMan.

My first 3D drawing. I needed a case to mount my arduino to various projects. I found a model of the board in the 3D warehouse on Sketchup. Future mods will be extension housings for add on shields and screw terminals. Now i gotta figure out a way to print it.Added images with improvements. thicker sides, pegs that use the holes in the board, and hold down tabs.

A printed spur gear driven extruder for Mendel or Darwin.

Model jet engine with rotating fan.

Designed to be printed on an Objet Eden 350 3D printer. RepRap and Makerbot may struggle, but could be a future challenge!

The model was designed and printed for educational material on rapid prototyping technologies.

Better Living with MakerBot, Episode 2
You probably all know this situation:
You're supposed to ref a soccer game in less than 1/2 an hour and you cannot find your whistle. You're screwed!

But from now on you're out of trouble: Fire up your trusty MakerBot and print a new whistle in 26 minutes!

This object prints the pea right inside the whistle. Since the pea is connected to the rest of the object only at one tiny point, it's quite easy to break it loose after printing with a small screw driver or tweezers.

I probably pushing luck a little bit with bridging the top layer. So far I printed the whistle twice without problems.

As always, I added the object as .obj file (wavefront), which can be imported into AOI and Blender.

The gcode file is the one I used to print the whistle on the image. The gcode file contains an experimental raft with additional "blobs" on the second (interface) layer.
You might want to generate your own gcode file with skeinforge settings, tested with your MakerBot. Be sure to setup Skeinforge to create an (almost) watertight object, since the whistle won't whistle if it's full of holes...

[Update]
I added a second version of the whistle. "Whistle_v2" is an attempt to fine tune the object a little bit. My brother (he's a pipe organ builder) gave me some tips how to optimize the whistles mouth. Whistle v2 should start whistle with less airflow than v1 and thus be (somewhat) less loud. I also downsized the pea a little bit and changed the shape of the lanyard loop.

Whistle v1 is still available for reference and also since it's more "tested"...

Since you blow the whistle with your mouth, be aware of possible problems concerning "food safety" of printed plastic. See the blog post "For foodies out there" ( blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/13/for-foodies-out-there/ ) for more information.

I wanted to run the gyroscope off a motor. So I whipped up this mount made of 4 pieces, plus 2 gears to run the gyro.